HiFi WigWam - DIY http://www.hifiwigwam.com/ Have you got solder burns on your carpet? This could be the place for you! en Thu, 23 May 2013 06:44:53 GMT vBulletin 60 http://www.hifiwigwam.com/digitalvb/morbid/misc/rss.png HiFi WigWam - DIY http://www.hifiwigwam.com/ Bottlehead http://www.hifiwigwam.com/showthread.php?87452-Bottlehead&goto=newpost Tue, 21 May 2013 21:18:03 GMT just a heads up,superb service as always from Eileen and Doc B, just ordered a Quickie Pre even got a refund on postage as I was originally over... just a heads up,superb service as always from Eileen and Doc B, just ordered a Quickie Pre even got a refund on postage as I was originally over charged
Great DIY amps :^
Like the look of the BeePre 300B preamp

http://www.bottlehead.com/store.php ]]> DIY RobsterD http://www.hifiwigwam.com/showthread.php?87452-Bottlehead anyone know what these speakers are with b139 bass drivers http://www.hifiwigwam.com/showthread.php?87449-anyone-know-what-these-speakers-are-with-b139-bass-drivers&goto=newpost Tue, 21 May 2013 20:53:27 GMT I've seen a pair of speakers at my local tip that had kef b139 bass drivers in an enclosed cabinet the a tweeter and midrange on the top but not in a cabinet.The midrange looked a bit like a peerless ones in pods .The tweeter not sure about but had a cross in front of it and looked white or silver, anyone know what they might be just interested . :dunno: do any of you cheers:D ]]> DIY hifinutter http://www.hifiwigwam.com/showthread.php?87449-anyone-know-what-these-speakers-are-with-b139-bass-drivers Hypex power amp build http://www.hifiwigwam.com/showthread.php?87434-Hypex-power-amp-build&goto=newpost Tue, 21 May 2013 16:48:35 GMT A few pics of what has been quite an ambitious project for me, in theory was just really plugging the modules together, but as I'm "electronically challenged" even that was a push, plus I went off on one a bit with the case ;

hypex 1.jpg

hypex 2.jpg

hypex 4.jpg

hypex 3.jpg

hypex 5.jpg

Would do a lot differently second time around , but overall chuffed with the end result - nothing caught fire, none of the expensive bits got broken & and sounds great of course :)

The modules are NC400 with switch mode power supplies from https://www.hypexshop.com/

Case from http://www.schaeffer-ag.de/index.php?id=97&L=1
Attached Images
]]> DIY MikeG http://www.hifiwigwam.com/showthread.php?87434-Hypex-power-amp-build Help with speaker http://www.hifiwigwam.com/showthread.php?87364-Help-with-speaker&goto=newpost Mon, 20 May 2013 12:53:27 GMT Hi all, I was wondering if I could ask you guys for some help with my Gemme Audio Vivace V3 speakers. Yesterday, the left channel of my system... Hi all,

I was wondering if I could ask you guys for some help with my Gemme Audio Vivace V3 speakers. Yesterday, the left channel of my system gave me the big bang and then went almost quiet. Now I only get very little out of the channel, and very distorted, right channel is fine. I initially suspected that one of the valves in the amp gave up but after switching amps, it stays the same.

Looks like the speaker (driver) is blown. Does it make sense that the driver goes with a bang when it gives up? It is only a couple years old.

The Vivace has a single full range Fostex FE108EZ driver, with a paper cone and a black spiral foam ring around the cone. There is a cut and opening in the foam (see upper part of the picture), which must have happened during the catastrophy. I see no other damage after taking the driver out. There is very little electronics, which is all in an external box (see 2nd picture), and no visible damage on the circuit board.

Unfortunately, emails to Gemme Audio remain unanswered. And that's because, as I just found out, they went bust. I bought them from Audio Emotion (still some warranty I believe), so I can check there as well. With >60kg/speaker, I'd rather not ship to them back though and see if I can fix it.

Should I get a new driver? Could that have been the cause? Or would you suggest it might be something else?

Thanks for the help!



]]> DIY Canadian_Audio_Guy http://www.hifiwigwam.com/showthread.php?87364-Help-with-speaker <![CDATA[Compression Driver refurb / recharge: JBL 2482's]]> http://www.hifiwigwam.com/showthread.php?87360-Compression-Driver-refurb-recharge-JBL-2482-s&goto=newpost Mon, 20 May 2013 11:20:36 GMT Wembley Speakers were recommended to me but they no longer offer this kind of service on Alinco mag units...

"sorry, we don't do this magnet work anymore. We found that dis charging and then remagnetizing these alnico mags resulted in a drop of about 2db
You might try Volt Loudspeakers. "

I've not heard of Volt Loudspeakers - Anyone heard of them or can recommend somewhere in the UK?

Anyone had issues with re-mag of alnico units?
2dB drop does not worry me in my application - subsequent loss of mag (above the norm) would. ]]> DIY speedysteve http://www.hifiwigwam.com/showthread.php?87360-Compression-Driver-refurb-recharge-JBL-2482-s Carbon fibre Hadcock rebuild - finished! http://www.hifiwigwam.com/showthread.php?87334-Carbon-fibre-Hadcock-rebuild-finished!&goto=newpost Sun, 19 May 2013 16:03:20 GMT I thought I'd just share a few pics of my mutant Hadcock, now that it's finished - a shot of the threaded pillar prior to final assembly - I did have help with this bit, but in theory I now know how to set up to do another one..
[IMG][/IMG]
the new pivot pin & pivot holder assembly:
[IMG][/IMG]
...and the fully assembled arm, complete with Exact Audio counterweight, installed on the new plinth - now oiled & waxed:
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
I did have a spot of trouble with the wiring - it's 36awg silver/PTFE stuff & it is very difficult to strip without severing the individual conductors - I ended up buying a CK30009 wire stripper (abt £30) which, together with a large magnifier, made the job a great deal easier. I also had to turn up a couple of ebony spacers to stop the wires on the back of the phono plugs fouling on the armlift. The only remaining bit I may sort in the future is to make a longer armlift platform (and source some decent cartridge bolts - my decent ones were too short)
So far, I have only been able to listen to the deck through my daughters system (my phono stage won't arrive for another week or so), but initial impressions are very promising - I may report back once I've set everything up in my own system.
I do have quite a few bits and pieces left over if any one else has a knackered Hadcock they want to have a go at refurbishing, including several crossbow bolts (very high quality wrapped carbon fibre - not your standard pultruded crap) - feel free to pm me if you are interested.
MH ]]> DIY MotherSky http://www.hifiwigwam.com/showthread.php?87334-Carbon-fibre-Hadcock-rebuild-finished! Goldmund Reference turntable service. http://www.hifiwigwam.com/showthread.php?87196-Goldmund-Reference-turntable-service&goto=newpost Thu, 16 May 2013 19:41:57 GMT I hope this is a suitable place for this thread. Mods pls move if not.

I hadn't serviced my turntable for about 10 years so I pulled it apart for a clean, new oil and new belts. It is pretty old but manufactured to a standard rarely seen, so I as a bit of an afterthought I took a few pix of the process.



The turntable is integral with its table. This is the top of the table with the suspension springs and dampers after everything else has been removed. The control panel is in the front and the tower at the back lights up with the speed whilst it is running.

DSCF0699.jpg

- - - Updated - - -

The three discs on the top are the supports fro the potor pod which sits on 3 adjustable spikes in these 3 hardened steel inserts.DSCF0701.jpg

The small holes are for the motor cable and speed sensor cable.


DSCF0705.jpg

This is the upside down motor pod, it weighs 12.1 Kg!


Here is a top view

DSCF0706.jpg


Here is the 16 Kg subchassis (with sub-platter), a substantial machined sand casting by the look of it.


DSCF0703.jpg
Attached Images
]]> DIY f1eng http://www.hifiwigwam.com/showthread.php?87196-Goldmund-Reference-turntable-service Power supplies http://www.hifiwigwam.com/showthread.php?87076-Power-supplies&goto=newpost Tue, 14 May 2013 02:22:23 GMT Many applications seem to require +5V, +12V and -12V. Now there are many ways to acquire a suitable PSU, from the hardcore DIY build-your-own to the... Many applications seem to require +5V, +12V and -12V. Now there are many ways to acquire a suitable PSU, from the hardcore DIY build-your-own to the expensive buy a lab PSU ready built.

I was looking at Steve's Najda thread, and Nick (at WAF) suggested a cheap PSU from eBay - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/130893701888. Pricing is in Oz $ because I'm in NZ, but they ship worldwide - call it 15 quid plus postage and you'll have some change.

Another option that came to mind was an old PC ATX power supply. This will give the voltages required, and a lot more besides, and is unlikely to fall short when it comes to current supply. Surely it can't be that easy? A quick web search found something which would help: http://www.wikihow.com/Convert-a-Com...b-Power-Supply. There's also detail on the full range of voltages and pinout here: http://pinouts.ru/Power/atxpower_pinout.shtml.

Not really what you need for a finished product, perhaps, but for build and testing it should be good. I'm not sure if it would be viable to run an ATX supply without the fan but that should be easy enough to check.

All the usual caveats and warnings about modifying and building electrically connected kit apply. ]]> DIY gjm http://www.hifiwigwam.com/showthread.php?87076-Power-supplies Decent switch for passive pre http://www.hifiwigwam.com/showthread.php?87041-Decent-switch-for-passive-pre&goto=newpost Mon, 13 May 2013 10:20:25 GMT I'm gathering bits to build a new passive preamp based around a valab stepped attenuator. Last time I made a passive I used a £2 rotary switch from maplins but thought I might push the boat out and hurl a whopping (up to) £20 budget at one.

Can anyone suggest anything that's better than the cheap grunge but not into boutique territory? It'll need to be at least 4-way.

Thanks.

- - - Updated - - -

Alternatively if you don't think it's worth spending more than a couple of quid, feel free to tell me :^. ]]> DIY la toilette http://www.hifiwigwam.com/showthread.php?87041-Decent-switch-for-passive-pre Tannoy HPD385 capacitor replacement in original crossover http://www.hifiwigwam.com/showthread.php?86879-Tannoy-HPD385-capacitor-replacement-in-original-crossover&goto=newpost Thu, 09 May 2013 11:31:55 GMT Hi there folks, wanting to retain original crossovers but replace the capacitors. Wondering what would physically fit & sound good. Was looking at Clarity ESA Caps, 250V but not sure whether they would be too physically big ? From memory there are 2 x 6.8uF, 2 x 3.3uF, 4.7uF & 1.5uF per channel, cheers Johno. ]]> DIY Johno http://www.hifiwigwam.com/showthread.php?86879-Tannoy-HPD385-capacitor-replacement-in-original-crossover Something else you can do with valves http://www.hifiwigwam.com/showthread.php?86851-Something-else-you-can-do-with-valves&goto=newpost Wed, 08 May 2013 18:27:56 GMT They're not just good for making music. Here's a clock I've knocked together for my brother's birthday.



The vacuum display tubes are Nixies. Each one has an anode and ten cathodes and by connecting the appropriate cathode to 0V you can illuminate any of the digits 0 to 9 with a neon glow. I bought some plastic lilies, took the centre piece out, poked the wires from the Nixies down the hollow stalks and Robert's-your-mother's-brother.



Then I hooked them to a kit-built driver from these nice people http://www.pvelectronics.co.uk/index.php, dropped the whole lot plus a bit of artificial grass into a Poundstretcher vase and switched on. I'm very pleased with it :^ (I only hope he will be ...). And in case the tube rollers among you think these are Russian 'cooking' Nixies, well they're not. They're old-stock Telefunkens from a dead 1970's digital multimeter.



There's nothing like them. The low end (0-2) has to be seen to be believed, the mid-range (3-6) is literally brilliant (orange) and the top (7-9) blows you away (if you're daft enough to touch it) :D.

VB ]]> DIY Valvebloke http://www.hifiwigwam.com/showthread.php?86851-Something-else-you-can-do-with-valves Active Pre Amp + KT88 PP or 300B PP http://www.hifiwigwam.com/showthread.php?86794-Active-Pre-Amp-KT88-PP-or-300B-PP&goto=newpost Tue, 07 May 2013 15:26:50 GMT I'm currently using a Tom Evans Vibe + Pulse PSU which I'm very happy with but I'm getting a serious itch that needs scratching and my pre amp hasn't been changed for a few years, so....

Any recommendations for a DIY active pre amp? A kit would be nice but any suggestions welcome.

Also, having recently built a KT88 SE kit amp, at 10w UL it works very well with my Agathons but would also like to see what else can be achieved. So I'm on the look out for either a KT88 PP or quite fancy trying a 300B PP preferably in kit form but could be tempted (steep learning curve) in building something from a schematic, just might be a stretch to far though. ]]> DIY IanS1 http://www.hifiwigwam.com/showthread.php?86794-Active-Pre-Amp-KT88-PP-or-300B-PP Upward firing Lowther cabinets http://www.hifiwigwam.com/showthread.php?86783-Upward-firing-Lowther-cabinets&goto=newpost Tue, 07 May 2013 11:17:17 GMT Following on from experimenting with my Bicor cabinets to see what they sounded like with the driver firing upwards... Following on from experimenting with my Bicor cabinets to see what they sounded like with the driver firing upwards (http://www.hifiwigwam.com/showthread...ing-experiment) I am part-way through building a pair of experimental cabinets designed with the driver facing upwards.

The internal design can be seen here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/wqerlxxb8t...2009.36.07.jpg

The internal baffles are now constructed & ready for final assembly - this photo taken part-way through baffle construction: https://www.dropbox.com/s/zrlgyj7qu7...2012.45.25.jpg

Shouldn't take too much more work before I can shove my spare pair of PM6C drivers in them and see what they sound like. ]]> DIY Tony_J http://www.hifiwigwam.com/showthread.php?86783-Upward-firing-Lowther-cabinets Carbon fibre Hadcock rebuild - nearly there http://www.hifiwigwam.com/showthread.php?86763-Carbon-fibre-Hadcock-rebuild-nearly-there&goto=newpost Mon, 06 May 2013 17:50:33 GMT thought this might be of interest to others - have had this on a back burner for ages, and having nearly completed the new plinth for my TT71, I... thought this might be of interest to others - have had this on a back burner for ages, and having nearly completed the new plinth for my TT71, I thought I'd pull my finger out and assemble the arm - it started life as a knackered/incomplete GH228, initially I bought an Exact Audio counterweight, thinking I'd save myself a bit of hassle - the counterweight is superb, but made me look more closely at the rest of the arm - I ended up scrapping everything apart from the upper bearing assembly, the headshell, and the little armlift widget - the arm now has:

new armtube - increased length to 242, tube constructed from a carbon fibre crossbow bolt, I sleeved this out with some aluminium tubing (pretty much an interference fit, relieved to allow concentric bonding using West Systems epoxy - the ferrules are in phosphor bronze, internally taper bored - partly to make it easier to feed the wires through

new base/pivot holder/new pivot - used slightly larger diameter silver steel for the pivot pin - turned the end to the same angle as the original, taken to glass hard with a mirror finish (the original pin was dreadful) - new base(turned from HE30) now has super fine thread (I admit to asking a colleague to do the thread cutting - I've not really tried anything that fine on a lathe, and certainly wouldn't have known where to start with the matching nut)

new bias assembly/weight (have guessed 2g)

delrin decoupling bush for rear stub/ tufnol bush for the extra rider weight I've had to put on the back to take account of the extra mass (the cart pictured is scrap - my AT150 is a lot heavier

oh, new mount for the armlift/ new knob for same (in ebony) & new armrest

& slightly unorthodox phono plug arrangement - these will be sleeved slightly to give more clearance behind - interconnects come up through the plinth (cable clamp/holder not yet made)

plinth is a combination of some 18th century cuban mahogany, bamboo, and fine grade phenolic sheet

I have no idea what it will actually sound like once I manage to strip the bloody tonearm wire (it's like hair)

p.s. - if some kind mod could insert the missing 'b' in the title I'd be really grateful






]]> DIY MotherSky http://www.hifiwigwam.com/showthread.php?86763-Carbon-fibre-Hadcock-rebuild-nearly-there Tips for changing idler bearings on a Garrard 401? http://www.hifiwigwam.com/showthread.php?86759-Tips-for-changing-idler-bearings-on-a-Garrard-401&goto=newpost Mon, 06 May 2013 13:33:04 GMT So I noticed recently that the pitch stability on my faithful 401 isn't what it used to be - piano in particular sounds deeply uneven. Having had a look around last night, I noticed an alarming amount of lateral play in the idler wheel. It looks like, after some 50 years or so, the idler bearings have finally given up the ghost.

I've just ordered the replacement kit from Perfect Sound and wondered if anyone with experience of changing such things had any useful tips to pass along? The deck was serviced a number of years ago by the good chaps at Loricraft so I've never had to do anything more elaborate myself than changing the bearing oil.

All info gratefully received. ]]> DIY mr_phillip http://www.hifiwigwam.com/showthread.php?86759-Tips-for-changing-idler-bearings-on-a-Garrard-401