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  1. #1
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    Hi there,

    Am trying to embark on an ambitious rebuild of the crossover. Trouble is, the caps are glued in place and the values are obscured.

    Does anybody have or know where I can get a schematic, service manual, or circuit diagram for these?

    Better still - does anybody know the specs of the crossover?

    Cheers

    Julian

  2. #2
    Admin hifiwigwam's Avatar
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    Hi Julian,

    You might try and PM EnjoyTheMusic. A residnet forum hiFi dealer, that happens to have had a few Yammies pass through his grubby little mitts of late. Also Biscuit might have some clues, he loves his Jap HiFi in a big - almost odd- way.

    Good luck,
    James

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    Super Wammer enbee23's Avatar
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    Watching this thread with interest...

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    IIRC the values are a bit wacky, and buying 'audiophile' grade replacements is actually rather difficult. Enjoythemusic might have a service manual, as might Joel (dr plinque(?)).

    Another option is to ask Mr Coherent to pass a quick eye over them to see if he can deceipher what it what.

  5. #5
    Wammer enjoy_the_music's Avatar
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    Yeah i only have the 1000X service manual sorry.

    Yes it would be best to send them to some kind of specialist in this area...Vantage Audio maybe?

  6. #6
    Wammer Dr_plinque's Avatar
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    If you are not in a hurry, I may be able to lay my hands on something, eventually. Don't know when and no guarantees, however.

  7. #7
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    Thanks for your help everybody.

    The main thing is to understand what the capacitor values are, particularly the row of 6 silver ones glued into the speaker terminal. See below.

    Dr Plinque - if you could help, that would be great.

    Richard - do you think that the crossover spec will be similar on the NS-1000X?

    I'll see how I go, but my best bet might be to get Vantage Audio to rebuild them for me.

    Cheers.



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    PS - you can also see how crap the internal wire is - to be replaced by Chord Signature or Odyessy.

    Regards

    Julian

  9. #9
    Wammer Dr_plinque's Avatar
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    Julian Japanese wrote:
    PS - you can also see how crap the internal wire is - to be replaced by Chord Signature or Odyessy.

    Regards

    Julian
    Hmm. the wiring looks fine to me. I can't imagine what "improvement" wanky wire will make, but I guess you can :-)
    IIRC, capacitor values may be the same for the M as they are for the X. Have those for the X somewhere (thanks to ETM).

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    Am interested to understand why you think that changing the wire won't bring any improvement? I obviously don't want to go to the hassle of doing it, if its going to make chaff all difference.

    My basis is that you read that replacing tonearm wire, interconnects and upgrading speaker cable from the 1$ per metre stuff you get free with your speakers - all has a huge difference. Factor in that the Yamaha's are very very transparent and revealing, and the fact that the wire looks really bog standard stuff - then surely the gains are likely to be huge.

    Why do we spend loads of money on cable, when the stuff you get inside your speakers is as basic and cheap as it comes?

  11. #11
    Wammer enjoy_the_music's Avatar
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    Yeah Julian if you send either myself or Joel here an email with your email address we can send you a 1000X service manual. However i am not sure they would be the same components.

    I don't think changing the wire would make much difference. It would be better to know what wire this was there in the first place before changing and why it was there.

    If you need spares let me know!

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    hi,

    my email address is

    julian.fletcher@reckittbenckiser.com

    sorry a long one!

    Richard - Is the designer of the NS1000M still around? What about the company that did the glossy red version for you? Would they know? I can remember reading somewhere, that somebody replaced the internal wire and the results were spectacular - holographic imaging out of this world etc etc. I managed to lay my hands on some decent Chord cable at a cheap price....lets see?

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    One of the interesting things the 1000/2000 series is the near complete lack of parts commonality. Quite astonishing by "modern" standards, but not even the mid & tweet were the same on the 1000m and 1000x! Bizzarely, the xover does show some commonality, but, as Richard suspected, probably not to the extent you need.
    I need to contact Yamaha about parts availablity for my 1000x anyway, so I will see what I can uncover re the 1000m. There was a lot of info about these speakers available once, before the internet age... Just don't hold your breath!

    My basis is that you read that replacing tonearm wire, interconnects and upgrading speaker cable from the 1$ per metre stuff you get free with your speakers - all has a huge difference.
    This is arguable at beast IMO... What bexactly are you trying to achieve with your 1000Ms?
    A detailed description of setup, room & objectives may yield more rewarding results than swapping out runs of copper wire
    (All IMO, obviously)


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    Bascially, I have a pair of manky old cabinets that need restoration, and a set of brand new drivers.

    So my thinking is to seize the opportunity and try and rebuild/restore them.

    I've already got a decent pair of untouched NS2000s, thanks to richard, so my thinking is to tweak the NS1000Ms as part of the restoration.

    I realise that this won't result insomething completely original, butas they're so heavily praised, I want to seize the opportunity to extract every last bit of performance from them.

  15. #15
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    Great choice on the 2000s. They will be stunning speakers if the 1000x is anything to go by (and I suspect it is).
    For the 1000Ms, my approach would be to get the speakers back to spec and then get as good a sound as I could from them.
    While it is very easy to change the sound of equipment, change does not necessarily equate with improvement. I think you have to work like a speaker designer and ask yourself what needs improving and then figure out how you're going to achieve it.
    FWIW, Yamaha's answer to that question for the 1000M was the 1000X...
    My experience with the 1000s (and all the other speakers I've had) is that setup of the speakers counts for almost everything - and by setup I mean physical location, room damping and, possibly, DSP EQ etc.
    Set them up to avoid early reflections and maximise direct arrivals and work on avoiding/damping room nodes etc. If you have vinyl, get it well away from the speakers.
    It would be very interested to hear how other people have their 1000/2000/10000s ;) set up. That sounds like another thread.

  16. #16
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    Hi
    I found this somewhere, can't remember where? but after looking at the crossovers it seems spot on. All the silver caps look identical and the one which can be read, and it reads
    3.5 uf 100V
    so 6 x 3.5 = 21uf
    The Parts List for the NS-1000X says the all the caps are common with the NS-1000M and that all the caps are metallized paper ( in oil? ) except 47uf 50V!
    I also seem to remember that it looked as though one of the drivers was wired out of phase (positive to negative) according to the + - marks on the drivers and crossover I think it was the Bass but I can't be sure?

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  18. #18
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    Ghost wrote:
    Hi
    I also seem to remember that it looked as though one of the drivers was wired out of phase (positive to negative) according to the + - marks on the drivers and crossover I think it was the Bass but I can't be sure?
    It will be the bandpass for the midrange unit. They are all textbook 2nd order slopes so the drive units will be 180 degrees out of phase with each other. Invert the phase on the midrange and that will solve that issue.
    Teddy Ray's way is the right way. For today anyway.

  19. #19
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    this might be helpfull to compare the xover http://page.freett.com/knisi/fx-3.html

  20. #20
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    Ghost wrote:I should have said except the 2 x 47uf 50V = 94uf
    The Parts List for the NS-1000X says the all the caps are common with the NS-1000M and that all the caps are metallized paper ( in oil? ) except 47uf 50V!

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