Head Room  Audio Emotion Temple Audio  The Hifi ShowTemple Audio 
Results 1 to 18 of 18
  1. #1
    Honorary Wammer JamPal's Avatar
    Join Date
     Jul 2005
    Posts
     29,645
    Location
     Sussex, West Side.
    Real Name
     James
    Turn Table
     Acoustic Soild
    T/Arm & Cart
     AN/Benz Glider
    SUT/Phono
     Pure Sound PTo/T10
    Digital Source 1
     Leema Antilla
    Digital Source 2
     Sonos
    DAC
     Leema
    Integrated Amp
     Accuphase
    Speakers
     Triangle Delta Sig's
    In the Hi-Fi industry?
     No

    Which HDR software?

    Fancy a play with HDR, any advice would be great
    "Hugely affable" - Esquire Magazine :-)

  2. #2
    Wammer griffy's Avatar
    Join Date
     Dec 2008
    Posts
     800
    Location
     St Ives, Cambs
    Real Name
     Dave
    Turn Table
     Rega Planar 3
    T/Arm & Cart
     RB300 Ortofon 2MBlue
    SUT/Phono
     Pro-Ject Phonobox II
    Digital Source 1
     Naim ND5 XS
    Digital Source 2
     SBT + sexy psu
    DAC
     Jolida FX DAC III
    Integrated Amp
     Mini-T/Sugden A48II
    Speakers
     Focal, Goodmans.
    Pre Amp
     Densen B200
    Power Amp
     PS Audio Trio
    Headphones
     
    In the Hi-Fi industry?
     No
    You want to use Photomatix

    http://www.hdrsoft.com/

    You really want 15% off the price though as well

    So look here for a code and tutorial by a great photographer and all round nice guy!

    http://www.vanilladays.com/hdr_tutorial/
    Nothing in fine print is ever good news

  3. #3
    Super Wammer tkimages's Avatar
    Join Date
     Jun 2006
    Posts
     6,327
    Location
     St Helens
    Turn Table
     Gyro SE
    T/Arm & Cart
     Technoarm/AT33PTG ll
    SUT/Phono
     Whest
    Digital Source 1
     Meridian G08
    Digital Source 2
     Sonos
    DAC
     In the speakers
    Integrated Amp
     In the speakers.
    Speakers
     Meridian DSP5200
    In the Hi-Fi industry?
     No
    Photomatix is a good one, but if you've got CS4 or CS5 they have HDR software 'built in' which can do straight or arty stuff.
    Tillman
    http://www.tkimages.co.uk

    Marj, my wife and best friend, says my passions are obsessions.

  4. #4
    Honorary Wammer JamPal's Avatar
    Join Date
     Jul 2005
    Posts
     29,645
    Location
     Sussex, West Side.
    Real Name
     James
    Turn Table
     Acoustic Soild
    T/Arm & Cart
     AN/Benz Glider
    SUT/Phono
     Pure Sound PTo/T10
    Digital Source 1
     Leema Antilla
    Digital Source 2
     Sonos
    DAC
     Leema
    Integrated Amp
     Accuphase
    Speakers
     Triangle Delta Sig's
    In the Hi-Fi industry?
     No
    Quote Originally Posted by griffy View Post
    You want to use Photomatix

    http://www.hdrsoft.com/

    You really want 15% off the price though as well

    So look here for a code and tutorial by a great photographer and all round nice guy!

    http://www.vanilladays.com/hdr_tutorial/
    Thanks dude, will look into that.


    I don't have a CS4 or 5?? What's that?
    "Hugely affable" - Esquire Magazine :-)

  5. #5
    Super Wammer tkimages's Avatar
    Join Date
     Jun 2006
    Posts
     6,327
    Location
     St Helens
    Turn Table
     Gyro SE
    T/Arm & Cart
     Technoarm/AT33PTG ll
    SUT/Phono
     Whest
    Digital Source 1
     Meridian G08
    Digital Source 2
     Sonos
    DAC
     In the speakers
    Integrated Amp
     In the speakers.
    Speakers
     Meridian DSP5200
    In the Hi-Fi industry?
     No
    Quote Originally Posted by hifiwigwam View Post

    I don't have a CS4 or 5?? What's that?
    Sorry, Photoshop CS4/CS5.
    Tillman
    http://www.tkimages.co.uk

    Marj, my wife and best friend, says my passions are obsessions.

  6. #6
    Honorary Wammer JamPal's Avatar
    Join Date
     Jul 2005
    Posts
     29,645
    Location
     Sussex, West Side.
    Real Name
     James
    Turn Table
     Acoustic Soild
    T/Arm & Cart
     AN/Benz Glider
    SUT/Phono
     Pure Sound PTo/T10
    Digital Source 1
     Leema Antilla
    Digital Source 2
     Sonos
    DAC
     Leema
    Integrated Amp
     Accuphase
    Speakers
     Triangle Delta Sig's
    In the Hi-Fi industry?
     No
    Ah sorry, I'm not a photoshop user. Tried elements once and had no clue WTF it was meant to do to be honest. Utterly bewildering software. I remember Layers? Work flows? And an array of tools that came with no explanation. The whole UI seemed inpregnable to me so I binned it off. :-) (yes, i am a luddite)

    All my images get a little tweak in Picassa to correct any light or to de-saturate and that's it.
    "Hugely affable" - Esquire Magazine :-)

  7. #7
    Super Wammer
    Join Date
     Dec 2010
    Posts
     188
    Real Name
     Bruce
    In the Hi-Fi industry?
     No
    I use this--simple and easy BRUCE



    http://www.unifiedcolor.com/hdr-express

  8. #8
    Wammer mikehit's Avatar
    Join Date
     Mar 2006
    Posts
     3,786
    Location
     Manchester
    Real Name
     Mike
    Turn Table
     Brass one
    SUT/Phono
     valve
    Digital Source 1
     Italian valved
    Digital Source 2
     new fangled digital
    Integrated Amp
     French
    Speakers
     Old
    In the Hi-Fi industry?
     No
    Are all Bruces simple and easy?


  9. #9
    Wammer
    Join Date
     Aug 2005
    Posts
     4,153
    Location
     Liverpool
    Real Name
     Mike
    In the Hi-Fi industry?
     No
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Cat View Post
    don't do it...99% of hdr photos are shite imo...!

    I just stick with ldr photos...
    ...and that remaining 1% I'm yet to see :-P

  10. #10
    Honorary Wammer JamPal's Avatar
    Join Date
     Jul 2005
    Posts
     29,645
    Location
     Sussex, West Side.
    Real Name
     James
    Turn Table
     Acoustic Soild
    T/Arm & Cart
     AN/Benz Glider
    SUT/Phono
     Pure Sound PTo/T10
    Digital Source 1
     Leema Antilla
    Digital Source 2
     Sonos
    DAC
     Leema
    Integrated Amp
     Accuphase
    Speakers
     Triangle Delta Sig's
    In the Hi-Fi industry?
     No
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Cat View Post
    well, to be fair same here I think, but I'm sure they must exist...

    but I'm sure subtley is the key in the same was as adding a big sub to a hifi - you don't realise it's there until it's gone, unless I've totally missed the point..?
    Well for me it's about sky and land in harmony. Most HDR images are massively over done, but there are subtle ways of using the software that saves one carrying tons of filters etc.
    "Hugely affable" - Esquire Magazine :-)

  11. #11
    Wammer
    Join Date
     Aug 2005
    Posts
     4,153
    Location
     Liverpool
    Real Name
     Mike
    In the Hi-Fi industry?
     No
    I think "natural dynamic range" would be a better name for the kind of thing I think you mean... capturing images that seem similar to what we actually see with our eyes/brains.

  12. #12
    Super Wammer alfie2902's Avatar
    Join Date
     Nov 2008
    Posts
     2,619
    Location
     Nottingham.
    In the Hi-Fi industry?
     No
    Quote Originally Posted by hifiwigwam View Post
    Well for me it's about sky and land in harmony. Most HDR images are massively over done, but there are subtle ways of using the software that saves one carrying tons of filters etc.
    James, If you shoot RAW Lightroom has a pretty good way of applying filters in PP. Or you can bring a blown sky back in the HSL panel by playing around with the Luminance (or Saturation) slider & bringing the blues down. Lightroom is alot more intuitive than full Photoshop too.
    Denon DP-6000/FR64s/Ortofon SPU Royal GM/Shelter 901/Auditorium 23 SUT/Pure Sound P10/SB Touch/Audio Note CDT/M2Tech Young DAC/BL Audio LP-1/New Audio Frontiers KT66 Legend/Living Voice OBX.
    My flickr & Portfolio

  13. #13
    Veteran Wammer rockmeister's Avatar
    Join Date
     Jul 2005
    Posts
     17,752
    Location
     Scotland
    Real Name
     John
    Turn Table
     Palmer2.5
    T/Arm & Cart
     SME M2-9, Cadenza Bl
    Digital Source 1
     Luxman CD 05
    Integrated Amp
     Luman L505 uX
    Speakers
     Harbeth sHL5
    In the Hi-Fi industry?
     No
    It's a bugger aint it.
    Highlights are much harder to recover than shadow detail. Once you have lost a highlight to pure white, there's no going back. So
    rule 1. Expose for the highlights to be correct.
    No filters will make a natural compensation, since they darken everything.
    Only the most expensive cameras will get even close to capturing the EV range of the human eye (in fact none can, so trying is just a frustration)
    Post Processing is the ONLY way, but GREAT programmes (ie those that look real) are either in built to the latest vg cameras, or exist in Adobe software.
    Lightroom is the easiest, most intuitive of these.
    rule 2. Get off arse and buy/learn to use Lightroom.

    If you look at my pics, they all seem slightly underexposed (dark) and rich in colour. This is exactly because I tend to shoot as above, and those images are the result. I also have the D90 set permanently to -0.5 stop exposure, to be sure.

    I call it style.
    Even the losers get lucky sometimes.

  14. #14
    sq225917
    Guest
    Must be the season for it I shoot dark as well, always half a stop under.

  15. #15
    Wammer mikehit's Avatar
    Join Date
     Mar 2006
    Posts
     3,786
    Location
     Manchester
    Real Name
     Mike
    Turn Table
     Brass one
    SUT/Phono
     valve
    Digital Source 1
     Italian valved
    Digital Source 2
     new fangled digital
    Integrated Amp
     French
    Speakers
     Old
    In the Hi-Fi industry?
     No
    Exposing 2 stops under was probably a great idea for bridge cameras of 5 years ago but the improvements in both sensor technology and processing power probably make that overly cautious.

    If you underexpose then recover, you get dark tones being recovered to create mid-tones and the question then is one of detail. This article explains why having your exposure mid-to-light is better than dark-to-mid, as long a you don't blow the highlights.

    http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tu...se-right.shtml

    One other thing to remember is that the histogram is based on the JPEG file (it will change slightly if you use different in-camera presets) and in my experience with Canon DLSRs shooting RAW has about one stop more latitude than the histogram shows. So blown-out highlight on the histogram may well be OK on RAW.

  16. #16
    Veteran Wammer rockmeister's Avatar
    Join Date
     Jul 2005
    Posts
     17,752
    Location
     Scotland
    Real Name
     John
    Turn Table
     Palmer2.5
    T/Arm & Cart
     SME M2-9, Cadenza Bl
    Digital Source 1
     Luxman CD 05
    Integrated Amp
     Luman L505 uX
    Speakers
     Harbeth sHL5
    In the Hi-Fi industry?
     No
    Quote Originally Posted by mikehit View Post
    Exposing 2 stops under was probably a great idea for bridge cameras of 5 years ago but the improvements in both sensor technology and processing power probably make that overly cautious.

    If you underexpose then recover, you get dark tones being recovered to create mid-tones and the question then is one of detail. This article explains why having your exposure mid-to-light is better than dark-to-mid, as long a you don't blow the highlights.

    http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tu...se-right.shtml

    One other thing to remember is that the histogram is based on the JPEG file (it will change slightly if you use different in-camera presets) and in my experience with Canon DLSRs shooting RAW has about one stop more latitude than the histogram shows. So blown-out highlight on the histogram may well be OK on RAW.
    Good article that. Must get out and do some comparisons.
    Even the losers get lucky sometimes.

  17. #17
    Super Wammer alfie2902's Avatar
    Join Date
     Nov 2008
    Posts
     2,619
    Location
     Nottingham.
    In the Hi-Fi industry?
     No
    I'm pretty new to photography, but read about 'shooting to the right' pretty early on. TBH I'm having mixed results with it, as it's easy to blow your highlights with to much +EV. If you're careful with your metering & use the AE-L button it can work very well after some PP to bring back the washed out looking image (not good to do if you shoot RAW+) . That said I don't see the point of using -EV all the time as you're throwing away detail, great though if you want an uderexposed effect or looking for a low-key type image.
    Denon DP-6000/FR64s/Ortofon SPU Royal GM/Shelter 901/Auditorium 23 SUT/Pure Sound P10/SB Touch/Audio Note CDT/M2Tech Young DAC/BL Audio LP-1/New Audio Frontiers KT66 Legend/Living Voice OBX.
    My flickr & Portfolio

  18. #18
    Super Wammer alfie2902's Avatar
    Join Date
     Nov 2008
    Posts
     2,619
    Location
     Nottingham.
    In the Hi-Fi industry?
     No
    From what I've read (& perhaps I missed the point) you only loose detail through overexposure if you blow the highlights or underexposure if you block the blacks. So, any recorded pixel that has a value that's not pure white or black can be adjusted in your RAW developer. The big difference to all this is how the pixels are recorded by the camera sensor. It works effectively in stops so your brightest tones at the far right of the histogram can record 2048 levels, the next stop down can record 1024 levels, but by the time you get down to the darkest tones only 128 can be recorded. So it makes sense if you're trying to record as much detail as possible to overexpose a stop or two & record higher detail & then bring back the tones but with the extra detail now recorded.
    Denon DP-6000/FR64s/Ortofon SPU Royal GM/Shelter 901/Auditorium 23 SUT/Pure Sound P10/SB Touch/Audio Note CDT/M2Tech Young DAC/BL Audio LP-1/New Audio Frontiers KT66 Legend/Living Voice OBX.
    My flickr & Portfolio

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •