About This Club

Linn Owners Club and Forum

  1. What's new in this club
  2. Thanks to a discussion with Paul about getting the toe-in angle absolutely correct for SO2, I spent time measuring it Today. I found my angles to be spot on; however, I also found the right speaker to be about 1.25” closer to the back walk than the left. I have corrected this, and what a noticeable difference! The bass is now deeper and the instruments and voices have more space between them. I know what a huge difference in SQ, 1/4” in speaker placement can make. Some one, cleaners, has mucked about with the speakers 🤬🤬. I now have them properly placed and have a free sonic upgrade.😊🤣🎼🎵🎶🎶🎵🎶🎶🥳
  3. If you clap you hands and hear a secondary echo, you may need sound absorption. You don't want to totally deaden the reverb, just get rid of the secondary echo. From that point, you may be balancing room diffusion with room decoration. Proceed little by little.
  4. I most definitely do not wish to deaden the room, as my system right now is, by far, the best I have ever owned. Dynamically, it is most enjoyable, but perhaps lacks a little focus. This 'shouty' effect and focus are, I think, related, but I can add or reduce sound absorption as needed. I do not have any sound diffussion devices other than a bookshelf and record storage (not currently in the room) Neil M.
  5. To my room, I added just enough sound absorption to tame the high frequency reverberation (RT60). This may be what you are hearing as "shouty." This was done in the form of heavy drapes. Beyond that, stuff in the room and on the walls can help diffuse the midrange. Bass is handled by Space Optimisation. I like to keep as much of the musical energy as I can in the room, and not deaden the room too much. I've heard systems with too much sound absorption. They sounded lifeless.
  6. The basic function of the panels is to try and tame some room anomalies. I do not have a specific issue, but since I have a dedicated listening space, I would like to maximize it's potential. I suppose my room is a tad 'shouty' right now. Neil M.
  7. I own both 520s and 530s and have used both for rear sound duties. Front end at the time was Exakt 350s with Katalyst AEB10 and 4 stereo Tundras. Both the 520s and 530s were brilliant and are obviously a really neat solution as they only need a power source and an ethernet cable going to them. My kit has been in storage since February while I bought my new home which I will get the keys to on Wednesday. My system which was based on a KDSM hub is changing to Katalyst KDSM with surround module and passive 350s, driven by a current spec Tundra stereo and using either 520s or 530s as rears.
  8. I doubt I have perfect pitch but I had a listen to the offending LP on my dad's record player today and the same awful flutter was present. On closer inspection, it looks like the previous owner has tried to fix the dodgy hole. Or at least someone has filed it a bit at some point. Either way I'm glad its not my LP12 and my dad is happy because, as he can't hear it, he is now the proud owner of Son of Evil Reindeer by The Raindeer Section. Shame as it's a rare LP that cost me a bit but at least its getting good use still.
  9. I used the compass on my iPhone. I measured off of the floor planks. I guess if you have carpet you could simply measure off of the side walls.
  10. Please add this information to SO v2 refinement, as it really makes a big improvement if you toe-in your speakers, to get the entered rotation angles correct. I felt it was important enough to start its own thread
  11. My Akudorik surrounds are just below ear height when sitting in the listening position. I have my Akudoriks sitting on top of a pair of Aurelex SubDude HT’s, with the spikes sitting on top of marble coasters for each spike, to raise the height of the Akudoriks. This brings the surrounds a bit closer to ear level
  12. I used a protractor, similar to Baba Yaga’s. 👌 If you don’t have a protractor, just print one off on your computer from a downloaded copy, or use Baba Yaga’s image above on your iPad and expand the image. I also wanted a straight edge, to ensure that I was exactly 90 degrees from the front wall , so I used a T-square that I would have used for a drafting table. Then I used the laser on my laser measure to ensure that I had a straight line to use as a reference. This process is probably more simple with square speaker cabinets, but my Akubariks and Akudoriks have rounded sides, so a little more tricky to line up
  13. Does anyone know, if linn can see how much linn devices are currently conected to the www? I like to know how many devices per day are conected.
  14. I've heard both, and I don't think that there's a lot of difference, if any. At the time I bought my A2200, the dealer said that he preferred the RCA version, which confirms my view that it's a close call. With an ADSM, you can use either.version, so, if you are buying second hand, you can, I believe, confidently buy what's available. What I don't know is whether you can mix types in a multi-amp system; my guess is that you can't, but I'm open to correction on that. David
  15. One more inquery re Akurate level amps - should I go for the ones with an XLR balanced inputs, or RCA unbalanced variants are equally good? IMHO balanced connections should be used whenever available/posible... yet I don't have any personal expiriance in that respect. So any thoughs on the dilema balanced vs unbalanced Akurate level amps?
  16. This one has turned into a bit of a can of worms! Sorry guys. I've mailed the dealer that supplied me the cards. Hopefully they can help.
  17. Rears, yes - but I don't have surrounds (sides) to be able to comment on them
  18. One thing about the M140’s is their ability to “grow “ with your up stream choices. After upgrading to A4200’s I truly realized that these speakers were underestimated. I think this comes from most people having heard M140s without the metal upgrade stands. These make a huge difference in bottom end. But they are really expensive for hunks of metal ( keel anyone ? ) . So, I think they are dismissed as immediate upgrades. When I went to an Akurate system hub ( from MDSM) and an exactbox10 ( from Internal aktiv cards) I started thinking about upgrading my Ekos 1 and my Hub to Kilmax level well before a speaker change. The Linn Hierarchy is alive and well!
  19. No I didn’t. In retrospect it may have been a better choice but I did have active cards and had enjoyed aktiv Majik Amplification for several years before the A4200 upgrades so the though didn’t occur to me, as removing the cards form my system seemed, on the surface , to be a step backwards. Might have been better, but a compromise none the less
  20. Thanks Arm. Did you try driving a pair of yours M140 with a single A4200? Could you please share your expiriance in that respect?
  21. I meant A2200, so standard two channel passive. For the reasons given by arm, I think that the key thing is the Akurate level amplification, which, in your case, may well be as important a step (and potentially much cheaper!) that full Aktiv. I can't speak from much experience of multi-amping, but my instinct is that it is a much less cost-effective option than full activation. As arm says, the marginal cost of full Aktiv vs. multi-amping is not all that great in any case. As an aside, here in Linn land we pay a lot of attention to speaker activation. In the wider world, I'd guess that 90% plus of component Hi-Fi systems are two channel stereo. There are some very good reasons why that is the case. And, yes, I do have an Exakt system. And, yes, I like it very much and plan to keep it as it is. But I am in a small minority in that regard. There are plenty of people out there who would think that you should add a pair of Solos to your wish list to go with your wished for Akubariks. That's a good thought. Those speakers can also still be upgraded to Exakt, albeit at eye-watering cost. David
  22. I replaced one m6100 at a time, with two months in between, while using internal active cards for my M140’s. My system sounded unbalanced while I had the A4200 on the K2 array of the M140s and the M6100 on the mid/ bass drivers. Tried switching , still unbalanced. Just didn’t sound right. I even lowered the gain in the A4200 by -4 on the little dials on the back for each channel. This was better, but not as optimal as two A4200. Took awhile to find the right second A4200 on the used market at the time, but worth it. You will enjoy the M140s on Akurate amps, and if this is just a stepping stone to Aktiv powered speakers , I would suggest getting a set of Aktiv cards for the M140s since they will cost little ( sold mine for $200 CDN!) and add much to this level while you wait for an opportunity on the used market.
  23. Many thanks for the comments and suggestions. I'm also more in favor of Akurate level amps, assuming this as more forward looking. My gut feeling is pointing me in the same direction... I'm happy also to have an empirical confirmation from you, as I'm not in a position to listen and judge for myself, unfortunately... You wrote A2200 deliberately, or you meant A4200? Should I keep my M2100 and just add A2200, or should I say goodbuy to M2100 and use single A2200 (or A4200) Of course I'm aware A2200 x2 are much better than single A4200 duo to double PSU in case of A2200 x2 . That is why maybe even A2200 + M2100 would give better results than single 4200... but higher would be the price tag for the pair of A2200... As my ADSM has a Katalyst, I'm also considering to find a pair of older aktiv Akubariks (maybe even a pair of 350' ) with XLR balanced inputs, and not to buy amps at all... to reduce the system to ADSM and XLR aktiv speakers. Exact Akubariks with Katalyst are to expensive, but also my ADSM's inner Katalyst is redundant in that case. The same story of redundancy goes with the AExaktbox 10 and AExaktbox-I. So to try tu summarise my thoughts - (i) to add A2200/4200 and stay passive as you suggested, to enjoy my M140 a little while... and later to add passive Akubariks and more amps, or (ii) to find a pair of aktive speakers with XLR connection now...