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Linn Owners Club and Forum

  1. What's new in this club
  2. You may find a gravitational shift to the west as the US is getting denser by the minute. I recently leveled my table and found the background noise to become quieter.
  3. Nice one Bill. Sounds like you're making good progress. By the way, how's your back? 25kg!! Mike.
  4. Patience is a virtue, also when adding a sub to a system. Placement, cut-off frequency and volume setting spans a great parameter space to find the optimum in. But the payback is also great when you find the point where you can’t hear the sub switched on but miss it when switched off. The only risk is that you find a position in the room not domestically viable.
  5. If you had a really good subwoofer, shouldn't the outside of the cabinet be virtually vibration free?
  6. Thanks for everyone’s help and advice so far. Today I took @SnapperMike advice and called my dealer. I read really good reviews on the SVS SB1000 sub and requested a demo from him. As I suspected they are not doing demos at their shop but he offered me the option to take a sub away and try it out for a couple of weeks. However, he suggested the 1000 would probably not be a good match for “doriks and suggested I go for a SVS SB3000. The driver is only one inch bigger but that equates to a much larger box. So I picked it up this afternoon and connected in to my system. First thing I did was turn off SO to remove the bass shelf. Played a few well known tracks and first impressions are very good. It’s amazing what a few extra lower frequencies can add to the overall sound. I will need to play around with the settings to get the balance right but I have started with the cut off at 65hz and the roll off at 12db. The volume is the tricky setting as different tracks seem to need different volumes so I will need to play a lot more music to get it right. any help with settings greatly appreciated.
  7. I can tell when my LP12 goes out of level, just by the sound. The way that it occurs is I just don't want to listen to music as much as I usually do.
  8. I’ve been lucky there as I’ve found the deck is actually dead level without me having to make any adjustments to the trampoline or table. Worth checking again though as it’s been a long time some since I got the spirit level out
  9. The Cirkus bearing on my LP12 that was just replaced by the Karousel was a new one, installed in January. The Karousel still trounced it. I'm imagining that you folks with decades old Cirkuses will see an even bigger improvement in sound quality.
  10. I've heard good about the Ikea Lack table. However, I do know that the LP12 needs to be absolutely level. The Lack table would need to be modified with adjustable spiked feet to achieve this. Even a Klimax LP12 won't be musical unless it is flat level on a rigid support.
  11. I wouldn't place the EBS on the subwoofer, nor in front of it. You don't want the vibrations shaking the circuit board to pieces. I'm exaggerating, but damage is a consideration when designing and building the amp that resides inside the subwoofer enclosure. Other than that, anywhere in the room should be fine from a sound quality standpoint. I agree with @DavidHB about the long wavelengths. Those vibrations will be present everywhere in the room. There would be no escaping them. Of course, this could be very easily tested.
  12. Unfortunately, that's A Million Miles Away for me, budget-wise. But taking a look, how Linn solved this, is only a good hours drive away. The wallmount of my turntable is fixed by treaded bolts, and dovels to the wall. The steel frame itself is fixed to the bolts from two sides by washers and nuts. I'd guess that this acts like a mechanical low pass, and the low frequencies are taken care of by the subchassis.
  13. Aktiv, Exakt and Katalyst modules on the back of the Akubariks and 350’s all have a suspension system to detach the electronics from the speaker cabinets, to mitigate vibrations to the electronics.
  14. Upgradeditis, potentially a very nasty condition, can severely damage the wallet if left untreated! My dealer is in Nottingham so Im going through for a day out and a natter in next couple of weeks and see what the score is for trade in's and used kit upgrade options. Seems the consensus is a Karousel is a no brainer as the first thing to do.
  15. Yes, AR are still a respected brand, though there have been several changes of ownership down the years. You can understand that a company would not want to put money into R&D on turntables at a time when CDs were the coming thing. That particular crystal ball turned out to be rather cloudy, but we all thought we could see clearly in it at the time. All of which makes sense to me. From my own recent upgrading experience, I think you might find that, along your 'considered way', there are a few upgrades that you might reasonably consider, and others that rule themselves out of court from the outset. Looking at your Wigwam info, I'd guess that Radikal, Keel, Kandid and Urika hold no direct interest for you, and Urika II is not compatible with your system. However, I suggest that Karousel is well worth investigating. Fitting it (and the new set of suspension parts that come with it) in effect gives the deck a full service; while you clearly do most of your own work, it is also good to let a trusted dealer look at the deck from time to time. Beyond that, second hand midrange parts which have come off decks that have been upgraded could well represent good value for money. If you find a pre-used Lingo 4 or Kore, either or both of those might be worth considering. IMO, the Kore provides more of the value of the Keel than the Lingo 4 does of the Radikal, and, in your system, I'd guess that, apart from the bearing, the subchassis is the most obvious candidate for replacement. On all of which, given your interests and experience, your own mileage may of course vary. But it's fun to bounce ideas around. That's the best and most balanced summary of a case that is still a hot potato in some quarters that I have read - much better than the articles to which you helpfully provided links, though much of the detail in those is of interest. I agree with you that Jack Tiefenbrun is the most likely designer of the single point bearing; of all the people involved at the time, he is the one who had the technical and manufacturing knowledge to have produced a design that has stood the test of time so well. Whether or not he was the originator of that design (a question raised in what seems to me to be a somewhat sour grapes manner in the final Hi-Fi News article), Linn did finally get their patent for the bearing. David
  16. That was the starting point of my thinking, Paul. Moreover, an ExaktboxSub on top of a subwoofer might be an insult to the female's eye. And then the cables, Arrgh!
  17. I would strongly recommend not placing the Exakt Subbox on top of the subwoofer. The electronics are susceptible to vibrations, and the subwoofer vibrates a lot. My friend here with an Exakt Subbox has his on a shelf with his other Linn, and placed it on top of some Gunstigs to minimize vibrations.
  18. Thank's for the advice. I'm not brave enough to destroy the veneer of my AV5150, though. Thinking further about it, I might take a piece of MDF and mount it to the wall, and then screw the Exaktbox to it. The tricky part is how to mount the MDF, in order to achieve the best possible isolation from the vibrations of the wall. Any engineers of submarines around here? Maybe, I should mimic how the wallmount of my LP12 has been fixed.
  19. The upgrade definitely comes with a new 5 year warranty. If you have it done via a US dealer, that warranty would have to be valid in the US. David
  20. True that. Linn confirmed that katalyst upgrade is only possible via a dealer. Also european warranties are not valid in the US so no use buying something that’s let’s say 1 year old and still has 4 years of warranty as that won’t be valid in the US. Still not 100% sure if your granted a US warranty (new 5 year warranty after katalyst) if you have the upgrade done in the US. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  21. Thanks, CJ Ah, the great rule of life. If stupidity can be the cause, suspect that first ... David
  22. I believe the AR serial numbers were fairly sequential. No idea if there were any gaps but there is a thread at Audiokarma where the serial numbers are discussed. Production of the AR XA and XB ended in the early 70s as far as I am aware. In the 80s AR introduced a revised turntable with variants known as the AR Legend (AR ES1 and AR "The Turntable"). These came with arm boards that would take a variety of arms. There was also a cheaper turntable based on the original AR called the AR EB101 that had a single fixed arm fitting and used what I understand was a Jelco sourced tonearm. I don't know when the turntable production ended and it may not have made it into the 90s. AR as a company was mainly known for its speakers and they apparently made some good ones. I have not heard the Karousel. As a hobbyist I am interested so may go there but with Linn new parts get pricey. Personally I don't detect much difference between a 30 year old Cirkus vs a 30 year old pre Cirkus bearing so am wondering if differences are down to a new bearing and service as opposed to the physical bearing change. However my better LP12 is a mere 90s build ie Cirkus, Lingo 1, Trampoline2 and Ekos 1/AT-F7. It was top spec at the time but I then got off the upgrade treadmill. I am quite prepared to believe that the Keel, Karousel and Radikal would be big upgrades but I have been burnt in the past with an LP12 "upgrade" that did not work well for me so if I get any of my decks to a level I am happy with I tend to stick with that build and only change in a considered way. I have an interest in the Ariston/Linn history. The Ariston RD11 was based on a prototype turntable developed by Ivor. This was basically an attempt by Ivor to develop his own version of a TD150 using the facilities at Castle and with the assistance of the Castle staff. In the 70s Ivor was quite open about this. The use of an arm board was a feature of the prior Thorens design. It is apparent from the Hi-Fi news coverage that Hamish Robertson must have conceded the Ariston RD11 was based on the Ivor prototype in his written submission to the patent hearing. The Tiefenbruns conceded that Hamish was responsible for the styling of the RD11 (arm board logo, plinth and dustcover (maybe Lenco sourced) and possibly platter appearance based on the XA). The design of the bearing was contested though I have seen some posts elsewhere that lead me to believe the bearing was definitely designed by Jack Tiefenbrun. https://postimg.cc/image/rhott93yt/ https://postimg.cc/image/7abe0ye79/ https://postimg.cc/image/4g88nirgl/ https://postimg.cc/image/e0rvae92t/
  23. I have 520s as rears with Akudorik EXAKT Katalyst up front. Am loving this system, best we have owned by some margin. CJ
  24. If you try calling Linn on the UK freephone number at the moment you will get a message about the factory being closed. This is not true, the factory is up and running. If you want to speak to someone at Linn call the normal number 0141 307 7777 and you will get the switchboard as normal. Unfortunately the guy that knows how the phone system works has been furloughed and those that are left don't know how to fix the 0800 number system!! CJ
  25. My Exaktbox sub is screwed to the back of one of my Akurate 226s :-)
  26. @cre009 Nice post, very informative Have you any information as to whether the number sequence was consecutive and complete? You imply that AR are no longer producing decks - is that correct (Wikipedia and the various websites indicate that AR branded speakers, but not record decks are being produced)? If so, the big difference, to my mind, is that the LP12 remains in active development and production. As we know, much of the early history of the LP12 remains obscure, so the only bit of comparative history we can be sure about is, as you say, that the AR-XA preceded the LP12 by more than a decade. One bit of AR history that Linn did not borrow from is the arm pillar and mounting. I assume that, with the RD11 and then the early LP12s, provision of an armboard was logistically and commercially essential, as Linn did not IIRC market any form of tonearm until several years into the production of the LP12. I am old enough to have read 1960s and 1970s Hi-Fi magazines when they were first published, and, with what then passed for high end Hi-Fi in the UK, it was customary to buy the turntable and arm separately, so interchangeable arm boards were essential. I can remember lusting after a Garrard 301 (and later the 401) with an SME II (and later the SME III) arm ... Have you my any chance heard a current standard (with Karousel) LP12? If so, how does it, in your mind, fit in this frame of reference? I ask this, because people who have had Karousel fitted (including me) tend to be rather enthusiastic about the resultant performance improvement. David
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