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  1. Sat here again. The room is a mess, and yes that new DAC is a health hazard. But there you go
    17 points
  2. system currently moonriver 404 ref / impulse taus [ rfc] / onkyo sacd and technics tuner amphion 3s powered by icepower and bc pre [ not in pic]
    15 points
  3. Just got a better copy of this on vinyl. So giving it a spin...
    13 points
  4. Breakfast in America. MoFi master pressing, and sounding rather good through the new phono build...
    12 points
  5. Our new ANE’s alongside our ANJ’s, both pairs finished in Olive, High Gloss. Fit and finish is ‘Second to none’, just wonderful!
    12 points
  6. 11 points
  7. Black - Wonderful life. On original Vinyl.....
    11 points
  8. Taken with my phone, with just the ambient light through the skylight window.
    11 points
  9. Why on earth start yet another one of these utterly pointless threads? What possible use do they serve? I can’t afford to buy a Bugatti car and neither do I particularly want one, but it doesn’t bother me in the slightest that such cars exist. And neither do I care in the slightest about these cables.
    10 points
  10. So it would appear that every cloud has a silver lining, well, it does for me as I will explain shortly. With regard to the cause of the amp failing it would appear that it was the power transformer that sits front and centre of this 845 integrated amp. So @Disarmamantwas spot on. So it just needs a new transformer which is on order. In the meantime Icon Audio have lent me one of their stereo 300b mk2 integrated amps which is where it gets interesting for me because prior to acquiring the 845 I had one of these amps. At the time I was using it with my Dali Epicon 2's and although the sound was good I felt it was lacking 'body' and weight. So I traded it for the 845 which improved things. 8 months ago I still wasn't really happy with the sound so I took a punt on some 2nd hand Klipsch Cornwall 3's. I love the sound that these speakers bring to the party and have now sold the Dali's. The really interesting thing for me is that the 300b just sounds so fantastic through these Klipsch to the extent that I am trading in the 845 against a new 300b. It's a funny hobby this isn't it? Anyway I'm now eagerly awaiting a new modded 300b. Cheers Ady
    10 points
  11. Björk – Debut Label: One Little Indian – TPLP31 Format: Vinyl, LP, Album Country: UK Released: 5 Jul 1993 Genre: Electronic Style: House, Experimental
    10 points
  12. [1972] Steely Dan ‎– Can't Buy A Thrill [1999 remastered/reissued CD]
    9 points
  13. 9 points
  14. Bowie. The rise and fall of Ziggy 180g remastered. I have to say that this is better than the original
    9 points
  15. Exactly this. My neighbour has a nearly new Aston Martin. I think he is mad to have bought it. I have a cartridge that retailed for about £1500. He thinks I am mad to have bought it, etc. etc. The crucial thing is 'choice'. If you want to get all het up about something, start with the cost of electricity, gas, water, etc. where 'choice' is either limited or impossible.
    8 points
  16. rdale, just having a conversation. No offence, but if you are not interested in thread or topic, why click on it and add to it? This, I like to think, is a community for people interested in hifi. People advising each other or raising topics associated with the hobby, people have no obligation to participate. I just thought it would be interesting to discuss.
    8 points
  17. ************ The only thing that bothers me about threads like this, is when people go by what they read or watch then freely spout their unfounded comments... anticipation is fine, but will only get you so far. Hear one and if you don't like it then that's absolutely fine. I have never commented on a piece of kit that I haven't heard for myself and certainly wouldn't dream of rubbishing a product on someone else's say so. I won't reply to any come backs for this, as it's obvious some people refuse to use their ears. One other thing, I bet GS is loving this publicity, probably never had so much exposure before... or maybe that was the whole idea. Mac
    8 points
  18. David Gilmour - On An Island. CD.....
    8 points
  19. Jean Michel Jarre- Oxygene Trilogy. CD....Disc one.
    8 points
  20. Deep Purple – Deep Purple In Rock Label: Harvest – SHVL 777, Harvest – 0825646035083 Series: Vinyl Collector Format: Vinyl, LP, Album, Reissue, Stereo, Gatefold, 180 Gram
    8 points
  21. Finally set to optimum. The HL5+ are staying put. I came to my senses and realised that there isn’t anything out there for the money that can do the texture, midrange and voice like these. Of course, my opinion but I’m really fussy having heard systems costing considerably more. The Copland DAC is something else. Again I’ve heard DACs costing so much more and sounding so… digital. Again with the inexpensive Audiolab transport, defying its price. Vinyl is so balanced but I might do a few tweaks later but for now, it’s so good set up right. Need to get that wall shelf up tho
    8 points
  22. Trying out a new power amp while the Graaf goes for a service. A bit bling. Like it so far. Hovland, very bloody heavy.
    8 points
  23. The Christians – The Christians Label: Island Records – ILPS 9876 Format: Vinyl, LP, Album, Gatefold Country: UK Released: 1987 Genre: Funk / Soul, Pop Style: Soul
    8 points
  24. [2003] Kraftwerk – Tour De France [2009 remastered/reissued 2 x LP's]
    8 points
  25. Oh no - I've got 4-way speakers in my main system. Does that mean I can't post here? They are ported. And they are keepers. I've had sealed box, too. And some of those were really good. Honestly, ported / non-ported. It's an argument about a misconception imo. You can get excellent examples of both types that will give huge amounts of entertainment.
    8 points
  26. I was of the HiFi generation that was groomed in the 70s and 80s to believe "Belt" was good and "Direct" was bad. IIRC. Something to do with the belt isolating the motor. As a result, I only owned Belt Drive, as anything else wasn't proper HiFi. I now believe that was complete bollox.
    8 points
  27. 8 points
  28. A fairly drastic re-ornamentation has taken place today. A very different view from the listening chair.
    8 points
  29. St Germain - Tourist. On double rematered vinyl....Smooooooth!!
    8 points
  30. Now this. Also a recent score on vinyl in as near mint as you can hope for these days
    8 points
  31. Bob Marley - Catch a fire Abbey Road remaster
    8 points
  32. Air - Moon Safari. On original Vinyl.....
    7 points
  33. Terence Trent D'Arby – Introducing The Hardline According To Terence Trent D'Arby Label: CBS – 450911 1 Format: Vinyl, LP, Album, Stereo, PX Country: UK Released: 1987 Genre: Rock, Funk / Soul, Blues, Pop Style: Electric Blues, Rhythm & Blues, Soul, Funk
    7 points
  34. Wow! I had not been aware of this thread from almost a year and a half ago. This is probably because I spend most of my time on the LP12 section and because nobody brought my attention to it. It has gone all over the place so I thought I'd give some of my experience since I have been doing precision torques for 17 years or so. I see that some have found references to that in posts on the Lejonklou forum. First off I'd say if you are playing with adjusting torque AND SO to compliment each other you are barking up the wrong tree. Any torque settings should make for the most musical sound whether or not you use SO, otherwise you are playing with tone controls and not getting the best tune out of the speakers, which is what torquing should be all about. The reason I chose the above post out all of the posts to quote is because it brings up something important I discovered about precision torques very early on, and that also ties in to how to find what is truly the best torques. The important thing it highlights is that the best torque is not a linear thing. So I find it totally believable that .6Nm sounded good, .7Nm worse and .8Nm better (and possibly .9Nm even better yet in a later post). The first rule of torques is that instead of being linear they are more like mountain peaks. In some cases there may be only one peak but in others there can be two, three or possibly more. Each peak will sound definitely better than torques close to it that are above or below it, but one peak will be higher than the others and will give the most tuneful perfromance. A concrete example is the Karousel bearing to a Keel. It has a peak which is pretty good at .4Nm - 2 notches but a bit too clinical, another peak is around 3.6Nm but isn't very good sounding slow and disjointed, the best is 2.6Nm +5 notches which I, and several others who have tried it, have found to be quite musical. (On the Kore, Majik and Cirkus sub chassis 3.4Nm even is the best.) Note that 2.6Nm +3, 4 or 6 notches is not as good. This ties into the second rule. The second rule is that you have to be very precise in your torque settings if you really want the most musical perfromance. When I first discovered the importance of precision torques in setting up the LP12 it quickly became obvious that the smallest increments that could be made were musically important. These adjustments are in the neighborhood of 1 to 2 hundredths of a Nm! This is the amount of change one notch on the Richmont Sturtevant CAL 36/4 driver (which actually has a marked range from .2Nm to 4.0Nm and will work a bit below .2Nm, generally to .1Nm or below). As soon as I started using it I found one notch was musically important and two notches was obvious. What I am saying here is that going from .8Nm to .9Nm is not precise enough to hit the actual peak where the music is the best. I would also say that once you are off 3 or more notches you might as well be off a mile as you are too far down from the peak to really appreciate how good it can be. I'll give a couple of suggestions in a minute. Third rule is that the only thing you can trust is your ear using the tune method. Which torque will be most musical often makes no sense whatsoever in terms of how tight you think it should be, at least until you have used precise torques on lots of devices and gotten a feel for where things often actually end up. This is why a lower torque may sound better than a higher "recommended" torque. What we are apparently doing is tuning resonances and optimizing connections which can be different from what seems logical. From very early on in my exploration of torques I started trying it on speakers and shortly thereafter on electronics when I accidentally found that it made a difference there as well. Many of us on the Lejonklou forum use precise torques on every piece of equipment we own. (Fredrik Lejonklou was the first person I shared the torque system and a bunch of LP12 torques with. All his electronics use precise torques on almost all fasteners and many of the larger components have a label inside with the torques to be used.) The second one is Paolo Nobile in Rome who works for a Linn dealer. Fredrik, Paolo and I started sharing torques under an agreement I suggested so that we could compare results and try out each other's findings. So we have been using this for a very long time. The torque driver I use, as mentioned on this thread, is the Sturtevant Richmont CAL36/4. I own several of them, Fredrik owns about a dozen as they are used in the manufacture of Lejonklou HiFi products. I found this driver totally by accident as it was just the first one I picked up off eBay, where they are generally available at good prices. It has ended up being the standard we all use for several reasons. 1) It is the only one we have found that basically covers the full range of needed torques as the highest I have found is 3.8Nm +1 notch for the Cirkus bearing housing to the Keel and the lowest I have found is .2Nm -11 notches for the top screw on a Rega Carbon or AT VM95 cartridge (the screw terminals on the Radikal sensor board are close at .2Nm -9 notches). To use Wera torque tools, as an example, would require three different drivers. 2) It has the precision we have found necessary which the Weras and others don't. Each notch is between 1 and 2 hundredths of a Nm! For those who haven't seen the driver this needs some explanation. The SR CAL36/4 has markings on the barrel every .2Nm from .2Nm to 4.0Nm. It is adjusted with a small popup handle on the bottom of the driver that has a little tab sticking out. The driver has a series of 9 notches machined into the bottom of the aluminum housing that this tab will fit into when folded flat. In order to keep the measurements accurate early on I suggested we not use settings like .9Nm as we don't know exactly where that is. So we go to the nearest marking and count up or down the number of notches from there. This means that what is probably .9Nm (the ideal for the Kandid) is 1.0Nm - 5 notches. Now that that is out of the way we have 3) This driver is very precise. While it is guaranteed plus or minus 6% they tend to be much closer than that. They can also be calibrated to each other (I calibrated three of Fredrik's to my original one, he has used them to calibrate his others and Paolo's unit). Part of this precision is that it also appears to be very consistent, not drifting over time - obviously necessary to work at the levels we require of it. 4) Although less important than the above it is also very rugged. The body is made of aluminum and the shaft out of steel. One of mine has survived a drop or two onto a hard surface without loss of precision. I once had a Wera diver I actually won in a contest and didn't use for some time. I got it out to see if it would be useful when the Karousel first came out and it was said torques of up to 5Nm might be best. It didn't go that high but in checking it out I dropped it on my kitchen floor where it broke into pieces that couldn't be reassembled. If you want to use other drivers, go for it. But make sure they can give you at least this level of precision and repeatability otherwise you will be leaving some musical perfromance on the table. Also be aware that you can't go by quoted specifications, which should be familiar to Hi-Fi people! When I thought I would need higher torques I bought a highly rated, precisely specified torque wrench designed for racing bicycles. I found that it couldn't consistently tighten to the same torque deviating as much as 3Nm before clicking! So some specifics from my findings. One bit of good news is that we have found that the proper torque once found is consistent from one unit to the next, even at these precise levels. So all Lejonklou large chassis units will sound most musical with the case top/sides fastened to the bottom at a torque of .6Nm +3, Linn Akurate casework and the Lingo 4 case at .6Nm-4, etc. Some torques we have found that relate to this thread are as follows: 3K Array .8Nm +3 notches (this applies to any 3K array so 242, 212, 350, Akubarik, Akudorik) but not to the Komri as that is a 4K array so would be different. Note that Paolo preferred 1.6Nm +3 so even among us there are sometimes differences. For the 242 and 212 bass drivers as well as the 350 midbass we have been between 1.0 and 1.1 with 1.0 +1, 1.0 +3 1.0 +6 and 1.1 found on various of these drivers. So at least some of the torques people have been playing with here are in the same range but I would again highly recommend trying the smallest adjustments you can make. Sonus faber is quite interesting and I can only give rough ideas here as I have not worked on that particular model. But on the Amati Homage these are the torques I found most musical. Tweeter baffle to magnet assembly 1.2Nm -4, tweeter to baffle 1.4Nm, midrange 1.2Nm -2, woofer 1.2Nm +2. Two interesting things here being that the tweeter has the highest torque and the woofer is lower, which you think would be the other way around. Actually this is not uncommon at all and has been the case with a number of other speakers including the ATCs I used to have and several Dynaudios. The second is that I did the torques on a pair of Sf Stradivari and it is the only speaker that appeared to have been torqued to this level of precision at the factory. Some screws had worked loose but most seemed to be at the same setting I found most musical, or least as close as I could make out. Time for me to get going after this rather long post but I will drop one more piece of info that will be hard to believe for many and will probably blow minds. While I also torque drivers by going crosswise it is not necessary to torque all screws equally initially to find the most musical torque. Torque them all close, for instance for akamatsu this could be 1.0Nm -5 notches (about .9Nm) on the 3K array, then try adjusting just one of the screws to find the musically optimum torque. This seems unlikely to work but I discovered this years ago an Fredrik discovered it independently. I don't know why it works, and it is counterintuitive, but it does work as long as the other screws are not far off optimum. Do your testing adjusting one screw until it is the most tuneful and then adjust the rest to that setting and you will be at the right place. You can always try readjusting a couple of the screws separately to verify but you will end up at the same setting. Have fun.
    7 points
  35. Royksopp - Late Night Tales. CD.....
    7 points
  36. Massive Attack - Heligoland. CD.....
    7 points
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