Shakey_Studioincar

Wammer
  • Content Count

    516
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

133 Excellent

About Shakey_Studioincar

  • Rank
    Wammer
  • Birthday 19/07/1983

Personal Info

  • Location
    Portsmouth
  • Real Name
    Carl Shakespeare

Wigwam Info

  • Turn Table
    Pro-ject
  • Tone Arm & Cartridge
    Pro-Ject / AT
  • SUT / Phono Stage
    Pro-Ject
  • Digital Source 1
    Tidal / Inspiron1700
  • Digital Source 2
    Meridian DAC
  • DAC
    MF
  • Pre-Amp
    Plinus M8
  • Power Amp/s
    Plinius P10
  • My Speakers
    Dynaudio Special 40
  • Headphones
    OPPO
  • Trade Status
    I am in the Hi-Fi trade

Recent Profile Visitors

2,048 profile views
  1. I'm still intrigued by Serge's gay-black-dog-wielding-Nazi from the first page.
  2. Obviously off his tits with that payment request.
  3. I go through 80's/90's amps at an alarming rate, this guys been using eBay for years, however, I've never done business with him due to the laziness of the eBay adds, and why two eBay profiles? He seems to get some lovely kit, but wants top dollar so a lot of his stuff hasn't moved for years. Be nice to know if he is/was an actual enthusiast and whether he's on any of the boards.
  4. I'll be keeping an eye out for that module, I've still got my Nova300 as a convenient amp to cart around into different systems. Loads of power and not weighing 45kgs and pretty much every function you can shake a stick at. I'm loving it with a set of Q acoustics Concept 300 at the moment, they have a decent relationship.
  5. That's it I think. At first glance you would think they're been wired for active running, until I opened the box, at least, that's what I thought, but yes it looks like a measurement thing to me. They'll be painted for certain, I'm not a fan of them in white. I'm likely going to go for a Porsche flat green with these, black drivers and gold logos, although this changes daily. These ones for me are a lifer, so they'll be very personally done. ===================== A brief update, as it would be pointless to photograph the same procedure on the other cabinet, however, this one is also now ready for a higher build and grain removal. It's very unfortunate that I'd not stocked up on High build, specifically Upol High #5. The second cab is in a grey high build primer I found at home, I've ordered two more which should get me to the pre stage of a really high build green TI primer. All 8 corners on this one needed rebuilding. From my first NS1000M resto, I learned there are a bunch of things I needn't have done. For instance, painstakingly removing all gaskets etc, I don't need to do that as I made new ones for the last set, I'll make new ones for these so I left them in place to protect the wood behind them. I'll likely be onto the drivers now, considering my lack of primer for the cabinets. Thanks, Carl.
  6. Unfortunately because I’m working from home I don’t have use of my air system so I’m using cans. This is an XL pro high build. Not near heavy enough to fill the veneers grain but works very well for the edge guides I’m looking for at the moment. They’ll be painted full on, if I have to wait I’ll wait, I won’t be painting them with cans in my garden. Thanks, I’m looking forward to doing more
  7. Wow, would you look at those!! You know, I have to do all of those by hand as my machine polisher makes them so hot they're impossible to hold, I aught to make a tool really. It was a complete accident I discovered they were pure copper, I was just trying to clean them with some degreaser. I was over the moon they were all copper. I'll be doing the same with these. ====================== So Yesterday I started on removing the black paint from the cabs to see where we were at in terms of damage, any pre existing repairs and what nots. Some would say it's probably best just flatting the black paint and going over it with a high build considering I go for painted finishes but I like to see whats going/gone on underneath, if anything. My new apocalypse DA turned up and it's a right whopper. I had a gorgeous Mirka digital DA but it broke a week or so back and had to be thrown away, hence. So yes, paint removal - I set up a temporary outpost. I must admit I've been struggling with motivation the past couple of days and I think it's due to the fact I'm doing all of this from home, usually I would be in the comfort of my workshop. I'm doing the best with what I've got at home and I'm really happy with the results considering. A picnic table, a dust sheet and a lump of MDF, tadaaaaa. Sorted myself out in case any impostors turn up. Then set about sanding and registering damage - Now this, I would consider near on terminal. With satin black brush on paint filling all of its gaps, this was one of those 'finding a damp patch in your house then requiring new foundations' types of discoveries. I got a little bit of a panic on so didn't get any pictures but I pinned and bonded this back to square, then repaired the corner. Cabinet inegrity restored, Phew!! So as you can see, an automotive filler, I'm not interested in keeping the grain here, quite the opposite. That said it is best practice to remove as much as possible to get us to a flat finish. Here are a few shots with applied (built up intentionally) filler, then removed with a block to a top finish. I'm made up with how the corners of these cabs are coming out. This is an entirely different practice than going for a flat finish, as I'm trying to build/repair. The flatting will be a long way off, right now we're just after straight, repaired edges and corners. The a 180 grit block for the base. I'm using the bottom of the first cabinet to get rid of the ring rust, I'll be back upto speed in no time, it's been a couple of years since my last set, my JBL L112. Now a high build primer coat as a guide to see just how square we are. It started to get a little grey so I had to lift this one into the summer house before it was rained on and everything would have been wasted. Now, I'm not looking for flat grain right now, I'm just looking for solid edges, the grain removing process will come later. I'm really happy with how Tuesday turned out. Today I set up my makeshift rig again, although no dust mat, one of the keys to working outside is that dust doesn't seem to gather so much. Silver linings... Now it was onto setting about all of the straight edges on this cabinet, each one has/had damage of varying intensity. Multiple areas per edge. Remember this bad boy? That's this corner - Sitting in the sun, all corners and edges treated - And a layer of high build to see how the edges and corners lie under paint. And that brings us upto date with right now. The sun came out just as I was wrapping up which was lovely to see. Thanks for looking, I'm flying through this cabinet as I have a bunch of time on my hands in the afternoons at the moment, I'm trying to make the most of it. Up to this point I'm 9 maybe 10 hours in. Carl
  8. So I carried on yesterday with stripping the speakers down. As Pete's pointed out above, these have around 50 more terminals than we need. I thought when I opened them up I would find them set up for active wiring although I knew this wouldn't be the case as they wouldn't work passively, which they have been doing for a year or so. Strangely, each pair of terminals are wired on the positive input of each speaker, one for mid, tweet, bass. effectively, taking one of the wire jumpers out will break the positive supply to the driver. I'm pretty switched on with speaker/network/amp wiring and I can't make head nor tail of why this would exist other than to take a measurement, or maybe go active from the outside of the cab and run a single common ground? If anyone wants to shed some light... Don't let the red and black cable throw you off. Each of these sets sit inline in the + cable of each driver. Back to the strip down - All non essential parts chucked out. You can see here the choc block used for the terminals. I'll sort these buggers out. Tweets and mids out. It never fails to impress me how substantial the midrange drivers are. Really special pieces of kit. Bass drivers out, less impressive than the mids but still a very nice driver. 40+ Years of dust in there too. Crossovers removed - Probably going to leave as is for a little while, upgrade the cabling and what nots, then to the crossover upgrades at a later date, we'll see. All parts out - Grill holders out, I used a small pick and a big tug. These will be going back in so needed to stay in top condition. Bare naked cabs More tomorrow, as this beast turned up this morning... Thanks, Carl
  9. So, I'm stuck in the house, both kids (3 and 6) and my bloody wife. I've had to shut our workshops/showroom and I'm working as much as I can from home. This isn't ideal, but at least we're safe. Talking of things that aren't ideal, I'm restoring my third set of NS1000 on my living room table. Like so - Hardly any tools, no work bench and certainly no lovely shiny workshop to play around in. We'll figure it out. These, like I've said, are my third set of NS1000's, the first set I left alone and a friend has them, the second set I restored (below) and the this third set will be a little more snazzy. I didn't plan to start them mid apocalypse but I've come round to thinking this is as good a time as any, limited tools/supplies or not. They'll still be restored to a wonderful standard, I'm actually really looking forward to them. This set look the straightest out of all of the ones I've had, but only from around 10ft away, they're still rough up close. The painted and lacquered finish I want needs the best possible base so loads of work needs doing here. So yes, this one should unravel quite quickly over the next couple of weeks, then its down to the painters lead times, with everything going on at the moment I'm not sure when that will be. May paint them myself again. More tomorrow Carl.
  10. I love painting speakers <3
  11. What a glorious little cupboard
  12. I’ve two sets of speakers and an amp that are a good ten years older than my wife and I.
  13. I'm cool with it how it is at the moment. I've stooped lower.