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Moomintroll

Wammer
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Everything posted by Moomintroll

  1. I can remember buying this when it came out in 1976. Just thought I’d give it a spin. ‘troll
  2. Back in the day, it was common to have a lamp with a 40 or 60w bulb over the turntable whilst playing records, especially with MCs and especially in the winter. I might need to go back to that if gas prices keep rising… ’troll
  3. Even on an LP12, lid raised is a bad idea, think of it as a sail. Opinion is that off is better than closed. Personally, I use mine closed, but that’s because it’s a real pain to remove and find somewhere safe to put it. I’d certainly recommend trying it. Oh, and fun fact, dusting the lid whilst playing a record can generate enough static to lift the arm off the record! ’troll
  4. The “Renew” came about when the original Klimax DS was upgraded to /1 (the exact nature of the upgrade escapes me). As part of the upgrade, which required a return to factory, Linn offered owners the option of re-using their original KDS board in a basic black case for a reasonable, additional charge. Most owners took this up, with some selling on their “Renew” DS as it it could, almost, cover the cost of the upgrade itself. Renews are not hardware upgradeable any further, but take Davaar updates like all other DS. I haven’t a clue how far this programme extended into other DS, so there may be Renew/1 etc out there. https://docs.linn.co.uk/wiki/index.php/Klimax_Renew_DS ’troll
  5. Hi Garth, you may get more response if you move this to “Troubleshooting” and rename it to “Converting LK140 to passive.” Shame about the dead boards. ‘troll
  6. Sorry, I wasn’t questioning you and appreciate you posting the link - it’s info we used to have readily available on the old Linn forum. I was just surprised to read that statement. There’s no way an Axis board would fit into an LP12. It may be possible to rig it up in an external box, if the motor was removed from the Axis board (it’s soldered in place) and wires fitted to the board to connect to the LP12’s motor. The on/off switch would also have to be on this external box, not the LP12. So… it’s possible, with some caveats. ’troll
  7. “The power supply from Linn's Axis turntable. "Basically a Valhalla with a 45 rpm option and can be fitted to a LP12" Really? ’troll
  8. He was still playing with GP the last time I saw him. That was in Chicago, about three or four years ago IIRC. I also saw the Brinsleys in the 70s. Can’t remember who they were the support act for, but do remember them being a really hard act to follow. Great live band. ’troll
  9. That’s my understanding, which is why you would have to listen to select what you think is optimum. However, you can then replicate that setting on other screws, with that torque wrench. One step further, which is what Tom has done, is to calibrate your wrench with someone else’s. Then you can both replicate the same settings. ’troll
  10. After Listening to Eric Bibb’s “Dear America” on Qobuz, earlier in the week. I couldn’t resist a vinyl copy. It doesn’t disappoint. ’troll
  11. Yes, I see what you mean. I’m familiar with JB Weld and it’s ilk. Two thoughts… the adhesive is intended for metal to metal? How will it work on the finish coat of the rack? I dare say you could sand that down to metal under the plate, as, once you’ve fitted it, it ain’t coming off without a fight. Which brings me to my second concern - if you don’t adhere metal to metal, the joint may not withstand the upward (shear?) force from the Hub pressing the plate downwards. Just a thought. Might be worth consulting JB Weld over your intended application. ’troll
  12. Be interested to hear how you get on with that. I’ve an original Audiotech board and several Sound Org ones that I’ve thought about utilising. ’troll
  13. Some thoughts… you could mount that plate below the frame. That way, you could inset the ply into the frame and reduce its size slightly. If you did go to 12mm ply, you could try the Fraim approach and cut out a section from the centre. That would reduce weight and shouldn’t impinge too much on the rigidity. Welding plates on to the frame - would require removal of some of the finish to get a metal to metal bond. You might need to consider powder coating the whole thing. Some people swear by the Naim “ball & cup” arrangement which is used under the glass on the Fraim. These are available separately from Naim dealers, but a quick and dirty option is to use dome headed nuts from a hardware store. ’troll
  14. My excuse is that I’m waiting for them to have a bit of practice before building mine… ’troll
  15. Possibly not. Some of mine have that appearance, some are clearly hex. Make sure your hex key is in good condition and does not have rounded shoulders on the hex. ’troll
  16. Yes, 3mm hex on my 350s, which did surprise me as I expected Torx 15 for some reason. troll
  17. You’ll get your revenge - I’m sure your Kandid will be worn out before mine.
  18. Isobariks used to have hard nylon discs on the base to locate the spikes. Naim use small pads of aluminium sheet (doesn’t need to be thick) to stand parts of the SBL on its spikes. ‘troll
  19. What are you going to use to stop the spikes punching through the plywood, especially the KDSM at 35ish pounds in weight? As an aside, you should be able to source spikes with inserts that can be fitted into the stand. (I assume you were thinking of adding small brackets to hold the spikes?) ’troll
  20. I would call that a bad pressing. It sounds pretty good via Qobuz, so should also sound good on vinyl. Lot of negative comments,regarding pressing quality, on Discogs - https://www.discogs.com/release/20947990-Eric-Clapton-The-Lady-In-The-Balcony-Lockdown-Sessions ‘troll
  21. I’m pretty sure, in an earlier thread, someone quoted Peter Swain from Cymbiosis as having recommended the motor running for 48 hours. ’troll
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