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pmcuk

Wammer
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pmcuk last won the day on December 3 2020

pmcuk had the most liked content!

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About pmcuk

  • Rank
    Wammer
  • Birthday 17/12/1946

Personal Info

  • Location
    Kensington, London

Wigwam Info

  • Turn Table
    N/A
  • Tone Arm & Cartridge
    N/A
  • SUT / Phono Stage
    N/A
  • Digital Source 1
    Mac Pro
  • Digital Source 2
    Audient iD4 + mics
  • DAC
    AK4490
  • Integrated Amp
    N/A
  • Pre-Amp
    N/A
  • Power Amp/s
    01A into EL38 SE
  • My Speakers
    Mark Audio Alpair 10
  • Headphones
    AKG K701
  • Trade Status
    I am not in the Hi-Fi trade

Recent Profile Visitors

1,850 profile views
  1. So it was you who wrote it.......? Do tell....
  2. Borrowing "Pseuds Corner" from Private Eye, I couldn't resist this review of the Chord Qutest. As a musician I find most of it complete gobbledegook. The cymbals "wheel and slice...." apparently, hopefully without taking the bass players head off. "But the Qutest offers more resolution here. Greater texture and nuance cling to the wheeling cymbal, double bass plucks and Porter’s honey-thick vocals, all of which have plenty of room on the Qutest’s expansive canvas. Its presentation is slightly bigger and more spacious than that of the DAC it replaces, giving musical elements greater scope
  3. I have a similar 5 sided pair of cabinets, taller and slimmer, with Alpair 10M gen.1 units. I love them and have for several years. These are generation 2 from the same cabinet maker - should be better still. I just can't seem to get round to finishing them. Perfect for a pair of Alpair 10M and fill the other hole or put a new faceplate on - whatever. Very easy to adapt and it will sound brilliant. Interested?
  4. Very well built cabinets in heavily braced birch ply 18mm. Five sided to cut down internal reflections, internally damped with bitumen panels. Made for twin Jordan drivers but could easily be adapted, e.g. for Alpair 10M or whatever. Diameter of speaker opening is 120mm. Height 93cm, front and side panels 20cm, back panels 17cm. These were specially commissioned and cost a fair bit. Need the space so must go to a keen speaker builder. Collection from Kensington London opposite Olympia.
  5. pmcuk

    Telefunken ECC83

    Yes indeed. But my recent experience has been that for the real giant killing valves you won't find them in the American style 9 pin miniaturised valves like 12A*7. I'm going deep into the history of European valves and there are some real gems in there. Odd bases and a few top caps, but the sound is on another level. They're usually collected by the radio guys. Of course you won't find any of them in commercial amps and preamps, though, so they'll remain unknown to most people which is just as well!
  6. I'm addicted to 19" subrack parts. Lots of modular top plates I can screw in and change around. I grew up on Meccano and never really left it behind! I love plenty of screws....... loads of them...... It does mean I can assemble and re-assemble projects much quicker than planning each separate build. I suppose for a saleable build, however, I'd have to posh things up a little. Working on it....
  7. On the bench today is my prototype "simple" 26 preamp on one chassis. If it sounds good I can build more. It's always a popular choice of preamp and i have a few 26 valves. I have plenty of parts to build a few of these in fact. The parts are top quality - teflon coupling caps, choke and DC link capacitor in the power supply, valve rectifier, filament bias with quality regulators. Three switchable inputs and a stepped attenuator volume control. It's nearly complete - good feeling! It will be going on sale in the classifieds as soon as it's all working. The other useful thing is that the
  8. pmcuk

    45 SET amp

    Good question. I have 2 types of amps: - 300b (or 2a3) with an indirectly heated driver, but a really good one. i use bigger European valves from the 1930-40s like German Post tubes - higher gain outputs like EL12n or EL38 with a DHT driver like 10Y or maybe 26 or 01A. Or indeed one of the drivers above. My speakers are 89db efficient and i don't listen loud. So with a 300b, mu=4, I'm just about OK with a driver with mu=27. Total mu= 108 (theoretical). For other systems this would need a preamp. A driver with mu=40 goes louder, total mu=160. This may or may not need a preamp i
  9. pmcuk

    45 SET amp

    A 45 valve is very expensive, and a lot of the ones for sale are less then 100% or even quite weak emissions. Not a good option unless you have some already. Why not use a 2a3? And a good driver like a 5A/152 German Post tube, which is a much cheaper C3g equivalent. That keeps the cost down. Or even a 6C4C output which is even cheaper and a 2a3 equivalent with 6.3v filaments like 6B4G. Then put the cash into the OPT. I'm going to be building an amp like this for sale as soon as I can - I have a pair of Lundahl LL1664/70mA and it will be that or 300b outputs. I use a similar amp myse
  10. Yes, of course. I only use a cathode bypass on my 300b outputs. Otherwise: - DHTs use filament bias, so a small cathode resistor - IDHTs use a small resistor up to 270 ohms with a plate choke of around 150H I've tried battery bias, fixed bias, batteries, red LEDs and SIC diodes in the cathode, but prefer a good resistor. I wouldn't call a DC Link cap a "magic" component, though I know what you mean. These are seriously well made and good sounding and made for demanding use in equipment, and data is freely available. They're not "boutique" caps at all.
  11. Well...... I've been switching between the Vishays and the Kemets and now I've come to prefer the Kemets, which is just as well since I bought 20 of them. They have a richer, fuller presentation which I initially found a little coarser, but I think they're smoothed out a bit. In comparison the Vishays are more neutral with a slightly thinner and not so up-front overall sound. I found myself feeling the Kemets were more "involving" - richer voices and strings. Who knows - on another day I might swing the other way. They're pretty close and both very good.
  12. I'm really getting interested in these DC Link capacitors, even a bit excited. I've been praising them on DIY Audio and the buzz must be getting round, not that I've done anything that others haven't been doing already. But they're back ordered already. Please report back to this thread with any recommendations. I'd like to know which ones are the absolute best - maybe the CDE but they're really not cheap unless anyone can find a cheaper supplier somewhere. The Kemets have been burning in for a few hours. I think they're improving but not quite up to the Vishays yet though closer. Still,
  13. Just got some of the Kemet ones from RS. Straight out of the packet, they're not quite as good as the Vishays I was using. Same general sound but not quite as detailed or transparent and the timbre was not quite so refined. I'll let them burn in a bit and report back - they may change. They're still better than all the others I tried - the ICWs, electrolytics and motor runs. I'm comparing these two types: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/polypropylene-film-capacitors/2078970/ Kemet https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/polypropylene-film-capacitors/6842295/ Vishay So decisions...... I wa
  14. Cathode bypass caps make a very audible difference in my experience. No cap is the design goal so I use plate chokes with high inductance so I can use typically 270R as cathode resistor. But if you need to use a bypass, use the best possible one. I hope Rabski can report on the difference between DC Links and Black Gates. That would be interesting. If you want to go nuts, Blitz reports on DIY Audio: "I tried different DC-Link types and brands. CDE 947D is for me heads and shoulder above the rest. Need one week of burn in." Farnell have a range of them. Not cheap. These are the only ones
  15. I just spent over £100 at RS on 15uF and 45uF caps - cheaper in 10s. I've done cathode bypasses for the outputs in two 300b amps so far and it's made quite a difference. No turning back now! I'm starting on the power supplies......
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