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About H20gna

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  1. In my experience IMD has exactly the opposite effect making things dull and lifeless, however it’s a moot point. My response to the OP was to try my suggestion, LPS’s of 13.8v were sometimes used in the past in CB radio base stations IIRC. Good luck to the OP, gamble a few quid! Gary
  2. Topping D30 is very good fed from a Linear Power Supply, dynamics, detail and soundstage are much improved. Surprised a few people who have listened to mine. I have a D50 on loan at moment, not as good in my system by a far margin. You don’t have to spend a fortune, there are quite a few 13.8 volt LPS on eBay the output can be tweaked to 15 volts via an internal pot. I have two paid £10-15 each, mine are 3 amp versions. Gary
  3. Personally I wouldn’t solder the plugs, use something like Z- plugs with grub screws. Gary
  4. Now I’ve eaten I’ll continue. So bi-wiring usually means two cable pairs per speaker (maybe different composition or size) from common LH or RH amp output. Now bi-amping can also be used, pre-amp feeding two power amps. Each power amp feeds either HF or LF on both speakers. Then we can Monobloc the power amps, each amp feeding either speaker LH or RH (+&-) speaker terminals. Gary
  5. I think we need to explore the LF/HF speaker terminals on the speaker themselves and the amplifier speaker output terminals. Lets go amplifier outputs first. There may be 2LH (+& -)2RH (+&-) terminal sets they’re all full range, I don’t know of any amplifiers that have crossovers built in that separate LF/HF frequencies, but since I don’t have knowledge of all amplifiers, it’s possible. Most amplifiers have 1LH & 1RH terminal set. So speaker terminals may have LF&HF sets or just one +&- . They both feed into a speaker crossover, this is the frequency divider that before you have used your Equaliser to do. With just one set of speaker terminals the crossover then divides HF/LF to the respective speaker bass/tweeter components. When there are LF/HF speaker sets the crossover is physically split so that the LF/HF components can be fed individually. If you only have one speaker feed to each speaker the jumper connection feeds both sections of the crossover. Hope this makes sense. Gary
  6. Yamaha MusicCast WXA-50 you may want to look at as replacement amp. Can be used as the start as stand alone and is multi room capable, built in streaming etc. Can be controlled by app. on phone, pad etc. Speaker position is really dependant of what and where you put the furniture and stuff, but across the 3.4m may work best? i think you may misunderstand you HF/LF speaker inputs. They are not for variable inputs, but to allow for bi-wiring or multiple power amplifiers to connect to speakers. Don't forget cables to connect components and speakers. Gary
  7. Do you mean you expect it to return automatically, which it was not designed to do, it’s manual. If you mean it physically won’t move that’s totally different? Gary
  8. Take you choice of Topping range, buy from Amazon and if you don’t like it return it. Perhaps D50s and use a linear power supply. Gary
  9. Your correct with Chromecast, MusicCast etc the phone, pad etc is just a remote control no stream passes to or from it. Gary
  10. Your right, I’d like to say it was finger trouble, but in really I’m dumb.....lol Gary
  11. As far as I know Yamaha’s MusicCast uses its own proprietary system.
  12. Chromecast doesn’t stream MSQ, Yamaha does. not that I think MSQ is worth having. Gary
  13. Yamaha MusiCast WXC 50, great interface Tidal button takes you to the app so identical. Its a pre amp too. Has multi room capability. I have one works perfectly, really easy to get used to. Gary