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Everything posted by newlash09

  1. Hi sir Unfortunately the designer of my speakers was expecting more orders to pour in, following my project. ( though the pemdemic didn't allow for that). So the design details of the cabinet and the crossover haven't been shared with me. As he spent almost 6 months only finalising that. Sorry for that
  2. My present diy speakers are also huge and very effecient ( which was one of the design goals when building the speakers). When I run them full range with the only pair of class D amps that I have ( nuprime STA-9 mono blocks ), they only draw 40 watts during peak crescendo's . So that is probably all the power I ever need , even running them through their power sapping passive crossovers . However, just for future proofing, below is my amp line up for my 4 way active amping project . It actually sounds like a mine is bigger than yours bragging show to be honest, as we start comparing the power outputs, as that amount of power might never be used, even on the bass drivers. Except that I've read, that an abundance of reserve power going into the bass drivers, usually translates into better control of the drivers. But since this is my first time, I wanted to err on the safer side Lower bass - 2x15 inch drivers per side- probably running from 130 to 150 Hz till below - crown xti 4002 - 650 w @ 8 ohms. ( I could bridge them by wiring the drivers in series in a future experiment, where in the power output will raise to 2400w @ 8 ohms. Though i dont think I will ever even attempt that.) Upper bass - 1 x10 inch driver per side - running from 130 or 150 Hz to 300 Hz- nuprime STA-9 mono blocks in bridged mode- 290 watts at 8 ohms Mid range - 1x6.5 inch paper cone driver per side - running from 300hz to 2400 Hz- TAD 1000 mono blocks with EL34's- 68 watts at 8 ohms Tweeters - 1 inch berrylium tweeter per side - running from 2400hz to wherever they go - DIY modified dared VB300 SET mono blocks - 8 watts at 8 ohms I also have a pair of line magnetic mono blocks, the LM 503PA, which will be in reserve to replace the EL34 tubes if required. so there sir...Iam done with my bragging PS : 1016 watts a side...when all I need is 40 good quality watts...greta thunderberg, should never find this thread
  3. As the title says https://audiosex.pro/threads/the-art-of-rational-speaker-placement.25137/ And I found a detailed post on how to do it, in intricate detail below. Please read Mr. "Jdandy's" post. Which is the second post from the top https://www.audioaficionado.org/showthread.php?t=46634
  4. Thanks sirs for your very valid advise, much indebted. I did give it a deep thought through out the day today, and realised that the itch to build my own speakers is something that will probably linger for the foreseeable future. Hence bought a foldable work bench and a jig saw, and other paraphernalia as well Also bought some thick felt mats and damping pads. The plan is to cut off my diy speakers in half ( probably sounds too crazy ), and to mount my mid range / tweeter cabinet on top of the bass cabinet with the townshend seismic platforms inbetween, just so that less vibrations transmit from the bass cab to the these cabinets. The bass cab with a single 10 inch driver will be sealed and restricted to probably 120 to 150 Hz. And the presently being built lower bass cabs by a friend should take over from there All run 4 way active ...though Iam still lost as to what active crossover to use
  5. Need some advise sirs I have a small tool kit with me, but it's mostly drills and spanners. And other small knick knacks. I've been spending a lot of time on YouTube watching wood working videos. But they are mostly being done on a work bench with installed saws and routers, in a dedicated work shop or repurposed garage. I sadly don't have room for any thing that big. But I have two 3x2 foot wooden center tables. Is there something out there that can be used to "cut wood in a straight line hand held for large cabinets with a cutting depth of atleast 3 inches" , as well as "table mountable" for quick and accurate multiple cuts with accurate spacing for each cut as a table mounted jig saw. I want to do my room acoustics on my own, to keep costs down, as well as a learning experience. Thanks in advance P.S : I also need to cut large circular holes in mdf upto 12 inches in diameter. Is there something out there than can do straight as well as circular cuts at the same time. I know I might be sounding dumb, but just don't want multiple spends on some thing I might be using only once, unless absolutely necessary
  6. Lovely looking room and speakers sir
  7. Posting after I wiped my drool , as I sadly neither have a workshop or the wood working skills. https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/218437-3-active-time-aligned-constrained-layer-construction.html
  8. The driver induces vibration into the front baffle that it is mounted on. This sound travels along the baffle, and then radiates into air at the edges of the baffle. This acts as a second source of the sound. And where this second wave interacts with the primary wave from the driver, it can lead to peaks and dips in the frequency response. These peaks need to be corrected for, and can be done easily with a peq filter in a active crossover
  9. The internal volume should not be less than that recommended sir for the mids and tweeter...the more you can exceed it the better
  10. @Bokke An article from my recent reading sir https://www.bonavolta.ch/hobby/en/audio/lo_damp.htm
  11. From my recent reading on the net...the idea of a cabinet is to isolate the front waves of the drivers from the rear waves to avoid cancellation. In open baffle designs, I've seen some with very wide baffles. And the reason purported is that at mid to high frequencies the sound waves can't wrap around the wider baffle to cause cancellation or off axis gremlins. So I don't think with my limited knowledge that having a wider baffle will be detrimental, as every cabinet still radiates the back wave of the driver to some extent, unless it is stuffed to its guts to absorb everything. So a wider baffle will better isolate that rear wave leading to better imaging. On an other note, you can build a cabinet within a cabinet. The outer one being the same size of the bass cabinet. And the inner one being the design cabinet. And then fill sand in the interim space ( on all three sides except the front baffle) to absorb all the reflections . This might be called constrained layered damping on the cheap
  12. newlash09

    Active cross overs

    Thanks sir So basically the implementation of the wiring of the xlr will determine the outcome. So the xlr output can be wired to nullify the hum issues. Can you please advise if something similar can be done at the xlr input to achieve nil hum please.
  13. True that sir on reflection you seem to be right. I remember having a listen to the karan 400 power amp on my friends B&W speakers. The sound did change from being mellow via his parasound A21 power amp, to a hard in your face sound when driven by the karan. So maybe it was the Karan's house sound that came out of those avalon speakers. And probably not the ceramic drivers fault.
  14. That's lovely to know sir Can you please share the brand name please...I would like to check them out.
  15. newlash09

    Active cross overs

    Almost all the active crossovers anyone , including me have mention in this thread. Come with xlr outs, and no RCA outs. As my tube amps only have RCA inputs, there was a doubt of some hiss being induced as I've read on some other forums. So got some xlr to rca adaptors to try out on my main components and see, before I pull the trigger on a dbx venue 360 . Will share my findings on Monday as I will be away and at the in-laws for the next 4 days
  16. Haha..Very true sir I only told the gentleman how clean his system sounded and nothing else. Iam usually kinder than that In fact I had carried my MFA premap with me, as this gentleman wanted to have a listen. It was virtually indiscernable from the 6 times as expensive 2 box karan reference premaplifier. Except that maybe there was a smudge more blacker back ground with the karan. And that really put this gentleman in pain, trying to pause, then rewind, and play back, trying to nit grit about the things the karan was doing better. All the while, when I would have been more than happy to donate my premap just to get out of the room
  17. I would fully agree sir My System costs a fraction of that system. And when I sat back day before yesterday night, I was so pleased with all the money I'd saved , never mind the more pleasing sound I was having
  18. newlash09

    Valve info

    PM sent sir...but I had to resend a couple of times so not sure if your inbox is full
  19. newlash09

    Valve info

    Many thanks sir Will send your goodselves a PM as advised. Thanks again
  20. Some pics to drool over would be very nice sirs. I have my towel ready
  21. newlash09

    Valve info

    Hi sirs My tube amps ( tad-1000) are presently at the service station. I've been running them with KT-88's all this while. But one tube is blown, besides I inherited the tubes when I bought the amps with an unknown history. So decided to replace all the power tubes with EL34's. Local amazon shows the below pricing for 8 tubes. And since these will only be running the midrange drivers, the bass and treble performance can be disregarded. Iam only looking for a lush and sweet mid range ( with whatever maximum details the amp design can permit ). Being a complete noob at tubes, iam lost at what to get. Any advise would be welcome. Thanks Mullard reissue EL 34 - 570 GBP JJ electronics T-EL34-JJ-MP -300 GBP Svetlana EL34 - 570 GBP
  22. Yes sir ..a lot of members on the forums I've researched on, expressed the same opinion, that the end sound does depend on the implementation. So Iam not sure if this was the sound that avalon set out to achieve, or was it because of the ceramic drivers. But either ways, I didn't find anything in the way of superior detail to forego the present sound that I have coupled with musicality. So not anymore keen on trying out ceramic drivers in the quest for non existent superior details, risking listenability in the bargain.
  23. During the selection process of drivers for my DIY speakers, I did a lot of reading on the net. There were multiple forums where I read that many super expensive speakers were using accuton ceramic drivers, as these were the best at detail retrieval. But there were equal opposing opinions that the sound was hard. So finally thanks to my shallow pockets,I ended up with paper and berrylium drivers. But the itch to have a listen to ceramic drivers was always there. So finally I dropped in for a listen to a 100K system which belongs to a friend of my friend. The speakers were the avalon indra diamonds (39.6k ) The amp and premap were from Karan. ( KAL reference III two box Pre amp + karan KAS 600 power amp ) . I think close to 40k for this combo The system was fully digital with a high end aurender feeding a denafrips hermes DDC, feeding a terminator. The cabling was exotic too, from MIT and transparent audio. The room was a dedicated and fully treated listening room. Right from the 2nd track, I was looking for an excuse to leave the room. The sound was hard and in your face. Very detailed of course, but completely analytical and unmusical. There was somehow no sense of imaging, even though I was in the primary listening position. Only in a single instance I noticed some sound coming from outside the plane of the speaker. But on the positive side, the bass from those kevlar-nomex bass drivers was awesome. It was fast and tight. And since I've heard karan poweramps before, a large part of the bass performance can be attributed to the amazing dual mono karan power amp. Everything regarding the disappointing imaging and soundstage, could be attributed to the wrong placement of the speakers. But I did get to hear what ceramic drivers sound like now. And Iam gald I was too poor to afford them. My paper drivers sound equally detailed , and all the while preserving emotion and musicality I've always had the itch to upgrade my drivers when funds permitted. But luckily that itch is dead for now
  24. The room will be completely redone sir...with room treatments sneaked in where I can. The goal is to end with a treated room, that is still aesthetically pleasing in a domestic sense
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