Pedro2

Wammer
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About Pedro2

  • Rank
    Pedro2

Personal Info

  • Location
    High Peak
  • Real Name
    Peter

Wigwam Info

  • Turn Table
    Rega P2
  • Tone Arm & Cartridge
    Rega Elyse
  • Digital Source 1
    Linn Akurate DSM (3)
  • My Speakers
    AE1a and JL D108 sub
  • Trade Status
    I am not in the Hi-Fi trade

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  1. Pedro2

    Sub Success!

    Thanks Martinc, Yet more useful advice and suggestions. The filter on the dbx is adjustable between 45hz and 960hz with a switch that allows for x10 instead (450 to 9600). I will therefore try some higher settings (only gone up to 95hz so far) with my set up. One thing that I have discovered so far is that there are many variables to play with. This makes it fun for some but it won’t be to everyone’s liking. I’m pretty sure that adding a sub is not ‘plug and play’ but that some investment in time can pay real dividends. I might even get a microphone!
  2. Pedro2

    Sub Success!

    I’m not sure how big the challenge is and I’m sure it will vary greatly between systems and their respective rooms. Maybe I’ve been lucky but I’m definitely getting a better sound now than before the sub arrived. I suppose the real test will be to get others round to confirm or deny this but I’m going to have to wait for a certain virus to make an exit first. I’m looking forward to this ........ as well as going to the pub.
  3. Pedro2

    Sub Success!

    Definitely words of wisdom!
  4. Pedro2

    Sub Success!

    I think that I may be fortunate here in having a pair of main speakers that are both active and with a relatively small (letterbox) rear-facing port. My guess is that any speaker that uses a port to greatly augment the bass response would have real problems lining up with any sub (just a thought but I'm sure there are exceptions). I also have no idea how the dbx crossover would sound in a passive set up; you obviously would need to site it between any pre and power amp so integrated amps would probably be a non starter. An interesting experiment would be to use a small high quality sealed stand mount (e.g. ATC SCM7) with separate pre and power, active sub and something like the dbx crossover to separate the mains and the sub. Would the sound be as good/better than more expensive floor standers? Hmm
  5. Pedro2

    Sub Success!

    Regarding full or partial sealing of ports, I agree that the results will depend on the speaker, room and positioning. My own opinion fwiw is that sealing on its own, is unlikely to lead to great improvements and is more likely to degrade the sound as the ‘tuning’ appears to go wrong. Combined with other measures, however, it can be useful and it’s cheap; you can even get away with old (or new) socks so just go ahead and give it a whirl!
  6. Pedro2

    Sub Success!

    You may be right, Martinc but it takes its input from the analogue out of the Linn before sending it out again, in the analogue domain. The model is dbx 223xs.
  7. Pedro2

    Sub Success!

    Hi Mothersky, Just a couple of points to clarify my own set up. My main speakers are quite close to a rear wall (approx 20cm to back of speaker) but not near to side walls. The test disc is not specific to the JL Audio sub but useful for any sub set up. You can purchase from the soundoctor site. This website also has lots of information re set ups, subs and room issues. I think the guy used to work for JL Audio and appears to know his stuff. His style of writing is interesting, however and at times can be scathing of certain approaches (e.g subs with ports - he really doesn’t seem to like ports at all!). Well worth a read and the disc can be extremely useful. The dbx frequency splitter has rather surprised me as I half expected it to badly affect the clarity of the main speakers but it hasn’t. I’m sure that devices that work in the digital domain can do far more but may not come in at £125! Also, my Linn streamer/pre has Linn’s room correction software (Space) built in so I don’t need a second layer of digital processing. I only needed to split the signal between sub and mains hence the purchase of the dbx crossover (it’s analogue and plugs into the Linn’s XLR output). All the best.
  8. Pedro2

    Sub Success!

    Here’s a pic of the Dbx filter unit that I’m using. As I stated earlier, my main concern was that it would remove detail from the main speakers but I can honestly say that so far, I haven’t noticed this at all. In fact, as the mains are only receiving signals above 90 hz, the mid/upper detail appears clearer with instruments/voices easier to pinpoint. So far, very impressed with this device. It’s relatively cheap too (£125) and this is probably down to its target pro market. Only downside are looks that won’t be to everyone’s taste and it even has holes for studio rack mounting.
  9. Pedro2

    Sub Success!

    Hi, MGTOW I have read your other posts about subs and found them helpful, thanks. I also looked up your speakers and imagine that they are extremely good from the specs. Did send an email to Acoustic Energy once, asking them if they are planning an active floor stander but they replied with a 'not very likely'. It appears that floor standing actives remain a rather rare breed. Interesting that you found little improvement with the BK sub. Is there a polarity switch on it because changing this can alter the bass content drastically? Also worth noting that the dealer that sold me the JL Audio, rates using subs for speakers large and small; the logic behind it is that anything below 90/100hz (approx) is best handled by a dedicated speaker leaving any upper bass/mid to the main speaker woofers. The guy on the website http://www.soundoctor.com (think his name is Barry) is also an ardent proponent of this approach and seems to have a wealth of experience to draw on. He even suggests that main speakers with large (by today's standards e.g 10" or 12") woofers benefit from a dedicated sub (or two). The main reason that many 2 channel listeners don't like subs is that they can be difficult to integrate properly. I recognise this myself as some years ago, I added a BK sub to a pair of Neat floor standers and the results were awful; big boomy, mushy bass. Little did I realise at that time that it takes some time and effort to marry the sub to the main speakers (so the sub went!). I now know better. You live and learn!
  10. Pedro2

    Sub Success!

    Sub success! This post could be very long so I've done my best to keep it short. However, it may help anyone thinking of integrating a sub into a (largely) music-focused 2 channel system. Prior to the sub purchase, our main system comprised a Linn Akurate streamer/preamp feeding a pair of stand mount Acoustic Energy AE1 active speakers. Cabling, nothing special; just some standard pro audio XLR. Having moved house before Christmas, the new living room provided a fresh opportunity to set up from scratch and re-evaluate the system and how it sounds. A friend came round and commented on the excellent mid range but also the absence of ‘proper bass’ (he was used to Sonus Faber floor standers with Naim amplification). Thus began the search for a sub! At this point, I must give a thumbs up to Rick at Musicraft in Derby. Having bought a pair of ATCs from him some years ago and having read his comments regarding JL Audio subs, I knew that (a) these American subs were going to be quality and (b) it is possible to integrate one or more subs into a 2 channel system successfully (but it's not easy). Soon later, I collected a JL Audio D108 from Derby as well as a recommendation to read a website and purchase a test CD from the States. Thanks for the excellent advice, Rick. There then followed a 4 stage process - Stage 1 - Plug it in and fiddle with the dials. This basically lasted an hour or so. The sub made its presence felt in a rather obtrusive way and the overall sound mix can best be described as fat, full and disjointed. This is what many people might hear and then decide that subs don’t belong in 2 channel systems! Stage 2 - Balance the settings. Arrived at a ‘reasonable’ balance of volume and filter setting (50hz) on the sub. Polarity and phase adjustments are hit and miss. Leave them both at zero as I haven’t a clue what they are doing. The bass is now tuneful but still somewhat bloated. Stage 3 - Test Disc arrives and things start to get interesting. Read the accompanying notes to the CD as well as on the website. Followed the instructions for 2 channel system without home theatre amp. Partially plugged the rear ports on the AE1 with socks and using the disc, discovered the correct settings for volume, filter (80hz), phase and polarity on the sub. Also paid careful attention to the warnings in the notes - at the wrong volumes, these test tracks can launch your speaker drivers! My better half complained of nausea during this process as some of the sounds can rattle your fillings. The overall sound is now much different to when I started. Can best be described as full spectrum, detailed and with a large sound stage. The bass is tuneful and does not dominate. Close your eyes and you would imagine that a quality pair of floor standers are in the room. Stage 4 - Add a pro high/low active crossover filter. This was a long shot. I would be introducing another filter in the signal path - almost heresy for audiophiles. The logic is to send only signals above a preset frequency to your main speakers and let the sub handle the lower frequencies on its own (for me, anything below 90hz). For the cost of some low/mid priced cables (£125), I thought to hell with it and purchased a Dbx (Harmen) crossover from eBay (new, not used). Plugged it in yesterday with the crossover frequency set to 90hz, replaced the socks with foam plugs (speakers now sealed units). and sat down, waiting for an anticipated drop in sound quality. Needless to say, this didn’t happen. Just the opposite. With no smearing of frequencies between the sub and the main speakers, this unit surprised me greatly. It works and works very well! I’m no expert in the field and not that technical but I’ve taken time to read a little, taken some (good) advice and as a result, the sound quality of the system has gone from good to downright great (IMO). Thanks for reading and stay safe.
  11. Can vouch for this. Haven’t played CDs for years (all ripped as FLAC and mainly now listen to Spotify) but recently remembered that the old(ish) Sony BD/DVD player has a digital out connection. Managed to find a digital cable from my archeological wire collection and plugged it into the Linn streamer/pre. The sound is excellent. Only drawback is that the track display is useless with virtually no information showing (track 1, track 2 etc) and the remote refuses to select tracks by number so you have to scroll forwards and backwards all the time. Bonus is that it will also play SACDs too, although I’ve only got one, and I’m not sure where it’s appeared from. My take on this is that a cheap DVD or CD player with digital out can sound great, as long as you’ve got a good DAC to feed into.
  12. Not sure if this helps but we’re very much Spotify premium fans in our household. The sound quality is good to very good. Have used Tidal briefly with their occasional special cheap offers but the benefits have not won us over and we always return to Spotify. A very short and unscientific comparison of sound quality between the two did not yield a clear winner. However, the Linn streamer does support Spotify Connect and it’s upsampling dac appears to do an amazing job. The Spotify interface is the best I’ve come across. It’s intuitive, simple, and the algorithms for suggesting new music/artists appear to work effectively. We also use it across several platforms successfully (Linn, Chromecast, IPhone, MacBook). Don’t know anything about Roon but the little I’ve read, hasn’t hooked me enough to part with wads of cash. My only moan is that the CD quality offering from Spotify has failed to materialise. Maybe their trial last year didn’t yield enough positives to go ahead and that 320bps sounds good enough for most folk!
  13. Pedro2

    Speaker Dilemma

    Paul, you could try partially bunging the ports. I used socks in the AE1s while experimenting with sub integration recently. I don’t think it would provide a long term solution but might be worth a punt. Bungs in ports can be problematic as they can subtly change the mix of the overall sound and not just the bass. However, it will signal if the problem concerns the ports’ bass augmentation. As an aside, the guy whose website advice I’m using for the sub integration is not a fan of ported speakers (either for mains or subs).
  14. Pedro2

    Speaker Dilemma

    Hi Paul, Sorry to hear about your S40 dilemma. A smallish square room is not going to be an easy space to get right, sound-wise. For what it’s worth, here are my thoughts: Don’t rush into any quick change of speakers, especially at the moment when demos are difficult/not possible to arrange. I did pair SCM11s with a Nord power amp successfully and the bass was never an issue in a similar size room. However, the AE1a, I found more engaging and with a more extended bass. It’s a personal preference thing. Finally, I’ve been experimenting, (mostly successfully) with integrating a high quality sub with the AEs. I won’t go into detail here but the sound I’m getting at the moment is superb and has taken the AEs to another level. I’m going to post my findings as soon as I’ve stopped experimenting. All the best and take care!
  15. It’s an ATC so probably, will sound fine (fingers crossed).