napoleonblownafet

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Everything posted by napoleonblownafet

  1. Carmen - Fandangos in Space https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fandangos_in_Space
  2. I would go for your second option. No one I listed does both metal cutting and etching, which is why I use(d) two suppliers. One off anodise panels can be pricey cos - as I understand - the minimum batch cost is £110 - well, that's what PAG quoted me because they have to subcontract that. If I was in your shoes, I'd get the front panel made at shaeffer using their online CAD solution - https://www.schaeffer-ag.de/en/ I spoke with them about something called subsequent anodising. This is where they take a pre-anodised black panel (or grey), cut it, drill it, then anodise it again so all the cut edges are black (or grey) again (they do this onsite so your job will go in the same anodising tank as a bunch of other jobs). They do engraving with paint infill, which I have had done and looks good - as an alternative to etching, which they don't do. This could be a one-stop job for you with shaeffer and while is pretty aggro free, might end up costing about £120 for your panel as described. I've emailed the shaeffer guys in Germany on many occasions and their English is excellent and they are very helpful. Shipping is cheap (via UPS) and total job turnaround is about 8-10 days. The amplifier panels on this webpage were done by shaeffer which were engraved with paint infill: http://www.zinamp.co.uk/ Ta NAP
  3. Don't know about laser etching holes in metal. I know Pag Sheet Metal have a laster metal cutter than can do holes, but an etching machine probably doesn't have the energy to cut right through metal, although it did cut holes in the plastic material I showed you there. When I saw the laser metal cutter at Pag in action it was all enlosed behind toughened glass and looked pretty intense! The etcher at Fortune's place was open an a somewhat quieter affair, so I think it's safe to assume you need a big laser - or a drill/router to make your holes in your metal panel. Ta NAP
  4. Thanks Keith, that's quite something. Worthy of comment certainly. Thanks for sharing - and yes, sorry I read the comments too quick and mixed you guys up. Colin, would love to see your "miniturised" version if you get a chance to take a pic. Thanks again, NAP
  5. Hey Keith I had a look at those Hypex Modules. How do they sound? My power amps are Class B and Class A at the same time. Not overbiased A/B, rather two output stages together; one in B and one in A. Makes a bloody nice noise if I say so myself, but sucks a bit more power than a class D How big's your enclosure? Pictures welcome Ta NAP
  6. Thanks Bencat I'm going to keep on with this and see if anyone expresses an interest. I'm not trying to sell anything at the moment - rather see if this has legs. Each year there appears another DIY kit for active crossovers. I was at Burning Amp last November and Nelson Pass announced his. It's all good stuff and I think a two box solution i.e. one amp and one x/o could appeal to a lot of DIYers, if not their wives and/or girlfriends! Thx, NAP
  7. Is Ben still there? Used to go see him when I was 17 - and that was 30 years ago!
  8. Thanks folks I'm trying to scratch a bit of an itch here - which is that I hear a number of people say they'd get into active crossovers if they didn't need multiple power amps and all those effing cables etc. I've not built an active system myself, but I have built amplifiers that can power them. Basically, I have the means of putting everything you need - except the crossover module itself - in one integrated box. It can even have a phono stage and pre-amp in the same box if you want it. I can offer this as a kit if anyone wants to build one. Just think of the Wife Acceptance Factor
  9. Hi Graham, Laser etching is very easy to do in the way you describe i.e. laser through the black anodise to reveal bare metal below. Works well. Anodise is done before lasering. The other thing you can do - and the guys at Fortune UK have done this for me - is to coat bright aluminium (or steel or brass) with a water based paint that contains a ceramic compound. When this is lasered, it burns a dark grey lettering onto the bright metal, effectively giving you dark text on a light background. The remaining water-based paint is simply sponged away. The panel doesn't have to be anodised for this, but a plain grey anodise looks better than bare sheet - pic attached You can't laser a specific colour however, like printing in ink. Not on metal at least. Laser etching is a burning away of other material. The ceramic paint I described above is the only exception I know of and that only comes in one colour - as Henry Ford would say! I gave these guys an swf file that I made in a bit of free CAD software. I used a particular font that I gave them the font file for and they did the rest. If your case has a removable panel, you should be able to make a CAD/SWF file based on the dimentions of the panel, send it to the etchers along with the panel itself and it shouldn't be complicated. Etching onto the front of the whole enclosure might be more challenging as laser etching machines tend to be flat-bed. Finally, you (they) can laser etch onto a plastic material that has a self-adhesive backing and has multiple coloured layers. 3M make an inexpensive adhesive material that is two layers of vinyl-plastic e.g.white with black over the top. When this is laser etched, the black is etched through, revealing white text. The material comes in numerous colour combinations so you have what you want really. You can even laser holes in it - as shown in the attached pic. Whether you can emulate a Sugden A21 using CAD is up to you - happy to give you a hand if you know what you want. I've attached some picures of the samples of what Fortune did for me. He's based in Slough, but there are lots of people around the UK with similar setups.The guys that sell etched or engraved brass doggy-tags on eBay often have this kind of kit - worth asking them directly on eBay. Best wishes, NAP
  10. You could mount it in your house somewhere with a big sign underneath that says "Do Not Press". Up to you what you connect it to, but I thought about something like that connected to my RCD. If anyone presses it, my UPS would start beeping! Time on my hands obviously!
  11. Hi, I currently have a build going on of a BiAmping box and need a little help. It's basically four separate power amps in one conventional-size enclosure with nice big heat-sinks. It also has: - Separate regulated power supplies for L & R - Speaker DC offset protection for both tweeter and woofers - Soft start - no speaker thump Each power amp is about 100w and is of my own design, but is based on tried and tested long-tail-pair / three-stage architecture, solid-state drivers and is perfectly stable and not prone to oscillation. Very good damping factor etc. DC offset is tuneable down to a few millivolts. I would love to buddy up with someone who owns or has built a speaker setup with an active crossover in it; two-way prefereably, but I wouldn't rule out trying a tri-amping setup at some stage. I would like to bring this to Kegworth either this or next year, so if this sounds up anyone's street or you know anyone who would like to get involved with something like this, then let me know. I'm based in North-Surrey / South-London, if that helps. Thanks all, NAP.
  12. If you've go specific requirements, I can help you CAD them up for a small consideration. I have a bunch of designs already done for stuff I build and have had made, so maybe a few tweaks required. The chinese stuff looks good too. A little more limited in terms of options, but if you can always get something like that and have the front panel laser etched to your own specs here in the UK - laser etching is super cheap - like £10 for a flat panel. Ta Nap
  13. If you are doing this with folded sheet metal, try https://www.pagsheetmetal.com/ If you are doing a one off and want a simple easy CAD based design service with online ordering (easy but pricey), try: https://www.schaeffer-ag.de/en/ For bespoke laser etching in anodised panels, contact: http://www.fortuneuk.com/Fortune_UK_Home.html I have used all of these suppliers and have all been very good Thx, Nap
  14. I've got a 30-0-30 toroidal going spare - 225VA and I've got a 35-0-30 toroidal - 160VA Interested? 07887 951 611
  15. If you are curious enough and have time on your hands, you can go on Amazon and get a digital LCR meter for £20 which will measure capacitance, inductance and resistance. If you get really bored, you can start removing the caps and inductors from your speakers and measure them. You may find some caps have indeed degraded, especially if any are electrolytics. Film caps less likely to have degraded. Either way, some expert audio engineers - including Doug Self - will tell you that polyester caps distort, whereas polyprop caps do not. So if you're still in self-isolation, are very bored and have found any polyester caps in your speakers, you can perhaps replace these with polyrops - your call! The possibilities are endless and let's face it, times are hard and a man needs a hobby! :-)
  16. Yes, done this a few times. Did a pair of Heybrook HB1s a couple of years ago; much better than before. Moved the c/o point down to 2.2khz, made the treble less shouty and added a notch filter to tackle a hump in the woofer response at around 2kHz and gave them some baffle step compensation for a little more bass response. Very happy with these. Followed this up with a some Richard Allen RA8s that I had to put completely new Seas drivers in cos the RA drivers are antiques now. Again self-designed c/o and every bit as nice and pleasant as those HB1s Most recenly, did a redo of the c/o in a pair of Mordaunt Short MS45Ti floor-mounts. Managed to get about 1 more db of sensitivity out of them and they are are firm house favourite here having 2x 8" woofers in a sealed cab - almost unheard of nowadays! More than happy to share how I did it and where I found my info. I even have PCB designs you can reuse - I'll even help you pick out components, which incidentally, don't have to be expensive. Things I paid particular attention to - and I'm glad I did - were: - Flatness of the c/o region - ensure you take into account the phase of your filter - Adding baffle step compensation - based on the box dimentions - Correct amount of tweeter attenuation, thus avoiding shouty treble Here are some useful calculators: - https://speakerwizard.co.uk/ - http://www.mh-audio.nl/Calculators/BDL.html
  17. Hi forgot-my-id If you're in the mood to build something, I have some excellent PCB-based kits based on a classic Maranz 7 design, or I have a have a solid state equivalent that requires a slightly less voltage! All of these measure very well - e.g. for RIAA - and have THD less than 0.05% (measured by myself, but fully verifyable!). The pre-amps both have a loudness filter, should you be into that sort of thing :-) PCBs available are: 1. Tube M7 Phono Stage 2. Tube M7 Pre Amp 3. Solid State Phono Stage 4. Solid Stage Pre Amp 5. Power Supplies for Boards 1 and 2 6. Power Supplies for Boards 3 and 4 7. AC transformer connection and mains switching board Prices on enquirey. Full support and documentation available. Thanks NB
  18. Hi Robbie I've done a few 'restorations' of old speakers - mostly 2-way with 8-inch woofers in sealed cabs - first pair I did were a pair of Heybrook HB1s which now sound much better than they did when I bought them (cured the wretched shouty-treble problem they suffered from). Did some Maudaunt Shorts and a coulple of pairs of Richard Allan RA8s too - these came up nice. Given I could not get Richard Allan drivers anywhere (for less than a lot of money), I was faced with a similar problem to yourself, i.e. I needed to source alternative drivers. A few people were very helpful, in particular, Jerry Bloomfield at Falcon Acoustics. Falcon stock a number of older spec drivers that are either new old stock or remakes of original specs. I found some drivers by Seas were perfect for my Richard Allens. Jerry also helped me mine the datasheets to find what I needed. In my case a total Q factor high enough to be used in a sealed cab. As Tony_J points out, change the drivers and you'll be best off re-doing the x-overs other wise results may not be what you were expecting If you're putting together your own crossovers, I have made some PCBs that make the job of constructing your own passive 2-way x-over a breeze. Not done a 3-way yet, but surely some day. The PCBs are blank and you solder your own components. I can point you in the direction of some excellent resources on this if you want to avoid some pitfalls, or I can build or spec them for you one you know what drivers you are going to use - apologies if you know your x-overs and don't need any help here. Hope that helps - and your speakers are coming along! Thx, NB
  19. Do mind me asking how you came upon it - i.e. it's provenance?
  20. That's one hell of a power supply for a pre-amp. What does it impart on the sound?
  21. I've owned some bits of croft gear down the years and his construction is always faultless. Just wondered what it looks like under that metal chassis? Do you have a camera?
  22. Do you have - or can you provide - any picures of the underside of the power-supply ? I.e. the wiring beneath the metal chassis? Thx
  23. Have you thought of using Parcel Force? I regularly receive deliveries from Radio Spares that are delivered by Gary - a most trustworthy Parcel Force man. He has told me many times that he absolutely insists on a siganture and is forbidden to simply leave things in my porch or push them through the letterbox - even though he makes at least three deliveries to my house each week. Not one delivery messed up in 9 months of using them - other than one split-open box, which turned out to be fine. .
  24. A stack of Zeners actually. 4 at 62v and 2 at 20v. Top of the stack connected to a 320v DC rail via a 15k resistor. I'm taking different voltages from different levels in the stack. Definitely noticed a 'settling' of these voltages after a few hours of use.