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JazzyG

Newbie Wammer
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    55
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About JazzyG

  • Rank
    Junior Wammer
    Junior Wammer

Personal Info

  • Location
    United States

Wigwam Info

  • Digital Source 1
    Linn Klimax DSM-K
  • Digital Source 2
    Linn Akurate DSM-K
  • Integrated Amp
    Linn Sneaky DSM
  • Power Amp/s
    Bryston 4BSST2
  • My Speakers
    Klimax 320A/PMC2023
  • Headphones
    SUB: JL Audio Fathom F113
  • Trade Status
    I am not in the Hi-Fi trade

Recent Profile Visitors

567 profile views
  1. I took pictures of my Twenty.23 speakers and boxing them up to sell. However, I am stumped on the last 2 pieces of foam packing material. There is the big top piece, the ring around the plinth...and then these to mysterious pieces of foam in picture. The way they are in there in the picture is the closest I could come to it making any sense. Is this correct or where should these pieces of foam be placed? Why am I selling my PMC's? I hand built a pair of Selah Audio Estremo Mk. 2 speakers (see picture). Not easy to part with the PMC's, I love them, but it was a dream of mine to build a reference pair of floor standing speakers in my lifetime...check that one off the bucket list!! Seriously, if you know how to box the 23's up properly, let me know!!
  2. I am experiencing this too, I got the error yesterday and today Qobuz is missing from my choices if I try to access it via my Kazoo installation in Windows 10. I am still able to use Qobuz via Bubble DS on my Android phone. Hopefully, they will get this resolved soon!
  3. The diamond foam in its natural habitat...I went this route instead of adding any wool or fiber fill stuffing.
  4. A couple more pics... The metal brace I came up with really works, I can play Pop Smoke's 'Shake the Room' and I can't feel any vibration on the sides of the cabinet--solid! I also added some good diamond foam I had leftover from my Classix II build.
  5. My sub project is now complete, it looks and sounds great! I had to build a replica grill as one was missing and also repair the one I had. Foam surrounds installed and turned out great. I did some placement and tune dem tricks to dial in the balance with the RCA's and the room. That said, this sub excited less nodes than usual, surprisingly flat in room response! I kind of wonder if it being "bi-polar" smooths out the response similar to how 2 subs is better than one? In short, the system sounds great! Nice solid, tuneful, bass extension to around 25 Hz and blends in beautifully now. So glad I didn't replace the drivers, they are really good. I did cover the stamped steel baskets with Dynamat and did some custom bracing work. I will post some more pics.
  6. I did up a set of these Neutrik RCA plugs last weekend, they look similar to what you are using. They are a bit tricky, but get easier with some experience, I have used these before. Getting the lengths of your leads correct is critical, as is the alignment of the shield wire relative to the center wire. It must be on the back side of the center lead. I do the shield solder first, then just rotate/press the center wire down and it should align right in the plugs slot. If you tin your bare wires with some lower temp solder, I use WBT silver solder on my interconnects, you can get them melted on very quickly so as to avoid too much heat. Cheers, JazzyG
  7. You know what, I think you are right about the levels. The XLR is coming through louder, hence the more visceral and dynamic presentation at the same level indicator on the dial.
  8. If you have the coin, or quid as you say in the UK, I would take a long hard look at the the Bryston 875HT. I am listening to my 4BSST2 with PMC Twenty23 as I type this, Tool inoculum to be exact, sounds amazing! Why, you ask? Well, other than Bryston amps are exceptionally well built, unheard of 20 year warranty, and the cubed new series is even better than what I have...take a look at the flexibility of 8 channels provides, bridgeable, balanced or single ended, multiple configurations. You will not outgrow this amp, whatever you do, I wouldn't buy an all in one HT receiver...yikes! Great speakers you have to start with, hard to go wrong with PMC Twenty5 series. Have fun, few things in life are better than shopping for a new amplifier!
  9. I have a Bryston 4BSST2 driving a pair of PMC Twenty23, front end is a current spec Linn Akurate DSM (Katalyst). I had been using an older Audioquest Diamond (first gen) between the DSM and the amp. I knew both had balanced options, but for some reason when I looked at the connections on the amp they don't look like regular XLR so I went with the RCAs. I was playing around with a sub and wanted to switch to XLR and use the RCAs for the sub, and voila the XLRs slipped right in. I am using a short run of DH Labs Silver Sonic BL-1 with Neutrik XX series terminations. I was shocked at the difference when I fired it up, more punch, dynamics and immediacy! Anybody else done this XLR vs RCA comparison, what were your results? I have a 3 meter piece of Wireworld Polaris 5 that I recently picked up cheap, bad ends. I just ordered some Neutrik 14 series for those, want to cut it in half and make a pair to try that out and see what that sounds like! Anybody have experience with the Wireworld cable?
  10. Gotcha, thanks of the tips. I wondered why it wouldn't let me set the port length, I have to manipulate the other inputs to get to the right length. So, I ended up have to tweak a few setting to hit 11" on the dot, primarily the Fb. I am not going to actually use these woofers, but I do like Dayton drivers, price is good, and they are only offered in 4 ohm so that is where the idea came from. After the changes the frequency response looks a lot worse and it hits Xmax even sooner, not a good match. I went ahead and ordered the new foam surrounds from Springfield Speaker Repair and a Subdude HT from Crutchfield for the Mirage. Going to build a set of good quality RCA cables to go to the sub and try them out with my 'new' RCA LX-50's that I modded out in my bedroom system. I think it will be a good match as I have the 'lil speakers sounding great, just lacking the weight a sub will add. Thanks again for all your help!
  11. I tried modeling one myself, can you check my work? Driver I used was the Dayton DSC205-4 wired in series. Would you be concerned about the Xmax in the low 20 Hz range?
  12. Awesome, thanks for the tip on Jeff Bagby's tools, I found them and downloaded to my PC. I do have Excel, so I am good to go, other than it will take some time to learn, but should be fun! I think I am just going to table the project for the time being. Maybe the best thing I could do is just order the new foam surrounds and get them repaired, they don't appear to be otherwise damaged. I will need to fix one grill and build a second one, to fully restore it.
  13. The single driver measures 8.6 ohms. The last graph you posted, with 2 ports blocked, something can't be right on that one. Maybe I am misreading it, but how can that driver and amp combo possibly produce that 107 dB bump at 16-17 Hz? Would be cool if it did! Otherwise, that chart looks really good! Would you remove the ports or just put a bung in them? I suppose if I used bungs, I could experiment a bit with the 3 ports. What software are you using? Is there decent free software I can start to play around with some of this stuff on? I see now how difficult it is to retrofit something like this, it would much easier from a design standpoint to choose a driver and build a cabinet around it. Thank you for your patience in helping teach a noob how to go about a project like this!
  14. I measured the inside of the cabinet this evening. I calculated the volume in cubic feet, I took the volume of the 3 ports out of the total. A total of (3) ports that are 2" i.d. and 11" long. 2 ports on one baffle and 1 port on the other. 1.61 ft^3 I did not take anything off of the total volume for the drivers, was having a difficult time coming up with a figure for that. I inspected the drivers when I removed one of them, they are nothing to write home about. The old drivers weight 3lbs, 2 oz and the foam is close to coming apart on the surrounds. I also found the skeleton of a rodent of some sort in the cabinet, I did not take the volume of that into account as I removed it! Do you think the Tymphany SLS-P830667 would work? Thank you!
  15. I opened up the cabinet this evening, looks like the amp is partitioned off from the rest of the cabinet. The drivers appear to be wired in parallel, I got an impedance reading of ~4.4 Ohms which would indicate the drivers are of the 8 Ohm variety. It is always amazing how little there actually is in some of these cabinets as far as components. Based on the new info, which 8" drivers would you recommend if I leave it ported? I went to Parts Express and searched on subwoofer drivers, 8", 8 Ohm, and only 4 choices popped up. Maybe the Peerless by Tymphany 830667 8" Paper Cone SLS Subwoofer? The Dayton one is really inefficient, the Tang Band appears to be specialized for specific applications, the Peerless by Tymphany NE225W-08 8" looks nice, more money though and is it that much better than the 830667?
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