Jump to content

Pennypacker

Wammer
  • Content Count

    523
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

257 Excellent

About Pennypacker

  • Rank
    d^_^b

Personal Info

  • Location
    Netherlands

Wigwam Info

  • Turn Table
    Technics SL1200G
  • Tone Arm & Cartridge
    Linn Adikt
  • SUT / Phono Stage
    Linn ASH
  • Digital Source 1
    Linn ASH
  • DAC
    Katalyst
  • Power Amp/s
    Linn AEBi
  • My Speakers
    Linn Keltik
  • Trade Status
    I am not in the Hi-Fi trade

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I never heard the difference, however popular opinion is that when running things Exakt the difference between x100 vs x200 is less obvious. That being said from swapping amps on Keilidhs and M140’s for the sake of experiment: x100/D vs AV5125/D = more detail vs more oomph AV5125/D vs Klout = cleaner vs slightly warmer I would not swap Klouts for x100/D in a traditional passive or analog Aktiv system unless it’s for convenience and less box count, especially since there recapped. To add to the confusion please know that I run Keltiks with AEBi, which in essence a
  2. If one pair of solos won’t give satisfactory results you can always ad the other 4 pair with the klimax exaktboxes 🤪
  3. At the moment I’m using the Keltiks for 2.0 duties. Admittedly more then the cost of a pair of silvers. 🤪
  4. The thing is, which is already been pointed out, at least sort of. I’m not looking for the full on/all out exakt solutions, best way forward in that case would be exaktbox-I for the rears in exakt, or as surround amp for any additional speakers and forgetting about exakt. For now I just want the 2 rears and maybe a matching center if it will fit my new cabinet. For the rears I’m looking for early Kan’s or tuKan’s because they match the Keltiks visually and most likely from a sound perspective with the matching tweeters without breaking the bank immediately. I’m not sure if I need a Sub at
  5. Thanks guys, the exakt route seems the best option, but it’s not exaktly cheap. But if can use a source that puts PCM in to the ASH I didn’t need the surround module upgrade, so that’s sort of good news. How about a third party AV receiver with bult in amps as the control point for surround which also feeds the ASH?
  6. As per title, but without robbing a bank or selling a kidney. I contemplate a pair of matching Kan or Tukan to use with my Keltiks in 4.0, but I have no idea how to connect everything together on the ASH.
  7. I remember reading once that the listening-position against the back is not the worst thing, according to Joachim Gerhard, founder of Audio Physic and now Suesskind audio. I did some quick research and found an article, I don’t know the article by hart, but I think it could be useful.
  8. Welcome to the linny loony-bin. If I needed to start al over again with a smaller budget and where committed to Linn, a MDSM or MDSi with a late pair of Keilidhs (with standupgrade) would be the way to go.
  9. I would consider a newer (S/H) the beste option to start on a budget. Depending on the need of a phonostage. A Majik DSM/DSi is a better pre-amp then Kairn, a pretty descent steamer and fine power amp with pretty much all connections you would typically want nowadays. Also it has Space Optimisation on board, a must IMHO. What speakers are u planning to use?
  10. You should at least give it a shot as all hardware is there.😁
  11. Still enjoying, as is my eldest daughter much to my surprise. So if I understand you correctly, swapping the tweet for OW-1 is beneficial without any hardware adjustment? Just for the record, I drive the Keltiks with AEBi and I’m really keen on keep using SOv2, so custom filters are not an option at the moment.
  12. I will except audiophile forums to ooze over it, assuming the noise cancellation works via speaker you will will endless debates about this or that power cord for the speakers, setup and positioning, which type of ADC... 😎
×
×
  • Create New...