Pennypacker

Wammer
  • Content Count

    366
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

124 Excellent

About Pennypacker

  • Rank
    Experienced Wammer

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. To bad passive Akudoriks don’t pop up that often in my area. Last week a pair of 212 showed up on a local auction site, they on reserved on the moment. I’m still contemplating if I will contact the seller in case the first buyer won’t show. **update, the 212 are gone as I wrote the above
  2. I’m still on the look out for a nice pair of passive Akudoriks or 212. But they are quite rare overhere. That is also my understanding (from scrutinising forums). Would be a great solution though.
  3. 505 or 606 are financially comparable outlay as a second AEBi and passive akubariks. last week I spoke to a (my) dealer about swapping my M140 to Ye’ old Keltiks and he voted against it. His commercial instinct also kicked in and he suggested Kudos Super20a and 505-606 as potential alternatives/upgrades. My original plan at the time of AEBi-ASH purchase was to swap the M140 for passive Akudoriks later on, since these are out of the equation (at least new via a dealer) his suggestion did make some sense though Admittedly the Titan range of Kudos is a big chunk of money...
  4. Well, an educated guess would say that the 2K is better then the old tweeter. OTOH the complete package of the Keltik could be better then the M140. I heard the different older style tweeters in the Keilidhs and I prefer the 2K (from memory TBH). I found the older tweeter in the Keilidh on the shrill side of things and could not understand what such a tweeter was doing in the top-dog of that era, the Keltik. The only reasons I could think of where that the advanced Keltik cabinet somehow makes that tweeter perform better and that one could tune that channel via the aktiv-cards.
  5. If you are referring to me, I’m afraid I can’t help you at the moment. It sound like a good option on paper, howeve getting a system for that kind of money being send blindly from the bay is a little bit to risky for me. I’m not situated in the UK.
  6. Other points of views on the table, thanks. @akamatsu and @Johannes you played aktiv back in the day. Presumably with Klouts I guess, another question would be of the AEBi would make al the difference.
  7. Everybody thanks again for the information. Gave a ring to a dealer today asking for advice. He said swapping M140 for Keltik would not be directly a step up, more a matter of taste and as bonus pointed out that it’s a 30 year old design. He also noted that the EABi would make them work, however not really sing. A proper A/B before purchase is out the question, so if I opt for the Keltiks it would be an “educated guess.” Moving them along if things don’t work would my escape though, OTOH their approx 50kg so maybe quit the hassle. Still tinkering though, since this was former top spec model. I think I could need some reassurance the the AEBi would not run out of breath.
  8. My M140s need SO, using SO for Keltiks would be a no brainer for me. I’m looking for something to check when purchasing, they are getting a bit old now. do I need to check the inside woofer for sogging or other faults? Which tweeter generation would be best? Etc.
  9. Akudoriks are my first option and are somewhat in my planning after the M140’s. I thought this up when passive Akudoriks where still around. Admittedly I never A/B them directly against the M140. But again since the Keltiks keep popping up against acceptable prices and somewhat like the classic look, I’m contemplating one swapping them in for the M140. Can somebody elaborate on the the weak points, is there any technical difference between the earlier black fronted ones and the later full veneers?
  10. Ok, thanks this far. Keltiks pop up now and then. I don’t need to sell the M140 direct so I can do a A/B. If general opinion would be negative I would not bother. I spoke to a guy once who had the Keltik aktiv via Mx100 amps without SO and he argued that the amps where out of breath, since I would use my AEBi this would be almost the same scenario from a power perspective, this makes me somewhat hesitant.
  11. Something with scratches, itches and general interest in the topic. Can someone tell me if swapping my current M140 with stand upgrade to Keltiks would be worthwhile or is this considered a side step? I would use an AEBi to drive them. I have red some remarks here and there and the Keltiks seem to divide opinion, however these seem to be depending largely on the quality of amps and positioning, in this case the AEBi could work with SO and exakt on board.
  12. I had Grado SR80i and switched them for Sennheiser HD600. The Grado’s had a warmer sound to them, admittedly they are not really high end but will work without dedicated headphone amp. The HD600 are what I regard as neutral and had lots more detail. The did benefit from a headphone amp though. I cannot comment on the MDSM headphone stage TBH.
  13. That’s true, but a 1000s of albums... some hifi dealer once told me that most people only listen to 40 records on the regular. (This was during a conversation I had while he tempted me to buy a TT, my argument for not buying a TT was that I did not owned any records) If I look at my own collection of approx 250 albums and also look at the ones I play most, I think that dealer had a fair point to some degree.
  14. Exactly the reason why I don’t subscribe but rather buy music, CD, record or as high res DL. Preferably CD or record. last week I subscribed again to Spotify, I want to check some albums out before buying the hardcopy. Saw that the one album I was looking for from Grace Jones was not available. All first world problems for sure, but if you need to subscribe to one or two services in case the fill each others voids, it is quit some cash which could be spent on the physical media including artwork.
  15. Just proceed as suggested: model the room as per plan. ignore the column. ignore the kitchen. ignore the vinyl shades. Since you already know the ideal position via tune dem, use it in the new set up. I also suggest you read the manual if you did not already.