Paulssurround

Wammer
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About Paulssurround

  • Rank
    Space Explorer

Personal Info

  • Location
    Vancouver
  • Real Name
    Paul

Wigwam Info

  • Digital Source 1
    Linn AEDSM
  • Digital Source 2
    Akurate Exaktbox 6
  • DAC
    Katalyst
  • Integrated Amp
    Katalyst Akubariks
  • Power Amp/s
    4200, Exaktbox I
  • My Speakers
    Katalyst Akubariks,
  • Trade Status
    I am not in the Hi-Fi trade

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. I was able to change the flight path of a surveillance satellite to fly over Akamatsu’s home, and zoom in on the yard. The grass is overgrown, the weeds are more than 5 feet tall, mail is piled up at the front door, Amazon has dropped off 12 packages at his front door that have not been taken inside, and the cat is hunting birds and mice to feed himself. The neighbours are all wearing hearing protection from loud music. It looks like Akamatsu has locked himself in the house?
  2. Hi Christian, Great to hear from you. 👋 It is already more than 2 years since visiting you, and unpacking your brand new Katalyst Akubariks. Great to hear they are sounding wonderful. I have to give credit to PDW for suggesting I revisit my toe-in values and ensure that I have entered accurate rotation information entered into SOv2 As I recall, your distance from the speakers to the listening position is similar to mine, perhaps a little bit more, and I use 10 degrees. You have the big advantage of having a completely open area behind your listening position, which could give you a deeper sound stage. Take care
  3. Great topic Eddie-baby It sounds like your neighbour is unhappy with some aspect of his life (wife, kids job, health, money situation.....) and looking to vent his frustration. It seems unlikely that he can hear your music inside his home. That is the whole point of having a detached home, to be able to play music when we want, at louder levels. I would try to get to know him a bit better, perhaps walk by his place when he is working on the yard and compliment him on the yard, flowers, garden looking good, and start a conversation. You could also find out how he is doing in this Coronavirus world and how he is coping with the situation. He is less likely to complain if he sees you as a friendly neighbour, and you may end up with a new friendlier neighbour. I live in a high rise building and have taken many steps to mitigate the music from disturbing my neighbours, including decoupling my speakers from the floor, putting in thick rubber-foam underlay under my carpet, placing a thick wool area rug between my speakers and the listening position, adjusting the bass output, reinforced walls with sound absorption panels and so on. All the best
  4. Having spoken to Philbo in person on the subject of toe-in, and he has said depending on the room layout and listening position, that many speakers with 3K arrays do benefit from toe-in. Toe-in is a very useful tool to get better imaging of the sound stage.
  5. Thanks Eldarboy for sharing your story I have been on a similar journey regarding cables, and have found substantial gains in sound quality with better quality power cords, interconnects, speaker wire and Ethernet cables. I first was exposed to this journey when I went from Linn Black RCA interconnects to Linn Silvers. Then I learned about the improvements of going from Linn K20 speaker wire to K400. Many years ago, I phoned a Linn dealer in another province to see if there was a better price to be had on a component I was interested in. The owner asked me if I had ever tried aftermarket power cords, and suggested I try some Shunyata Venoms that cost about $100 each. I eventually upgraded my Venoms for Shunyata Sidewinders, then, Shunyata HC’s, then Cobras, Alpha Digitals and Alpha NR. The improvements were as profound as the drop in my bank account. The last major discovery, was my journey with Ethernet cables. Starting with basic Cat5 and Cat6, Gary’s Cat6 cables from Better Music, Meicord cables, Cat7 cables, Audioquest Cinamon’s, Vodkas and Diamonds, Chord Anthem, and now Certicable Cat8 cables. Then there was the discovery of power conditioners And wave form correction devices, and the expensive journey I have participated in with corresponding improvements in sound quality. This has been a fascinating journey and I would do it all over again.
  6. As you get at least 20 hours of burn in time on the new electronics, you will start to hear the music go to a much higher level. You may also want to adjust a few things with the absorption values with your Space Optimisation, once the Exaktbox I has some more time .
  7. Congratulations on your new Karousel and Kandid I think you will be in for an even bigger surprise when you get at least 60-100 hours on your new Kandid. It will continue to improve in sound quality over the next week or so, as you get more time on the Kandid.
  8. Some people have tried to link the design of the LP-12 to other turntables, but the original design of the LP-12 far pre-dates the AR-XA and the Ariston designs. The idea that the LP-12 was somehow copied is an audiophile myth. The original LP-12 can be traced back to 1947 to Roswell, New Mexico, upon the crash of an unknown saucer. The saucer was studied by engineers and scientists to back engineer this advanced concept, giving rise to the LP-12 and its unique suspension and saucer shaped platter design. When the extraterrestrials used their hyperdrive anti-gravity warp propulsion, it was a bumpy ride travelling through black holes, so they developed an advanced suspension system to buffer their trip through black holes. This suspension system has been refined by Linn over the years and now improves upon the original extraterrestrial design. In fact most UFO’s that you see, whether saucer shaped, cigar shaped or triangular shape use Linn’s suspension design. The Kandid cartridge is another example of back engineering from the UFO, and instead of a diamond stylus, uses a dilithium crystal. So there you have the whole truth about the LP-12
  9. Please add this information to SO v2 refinement, as it really makes a big improvement if you toe-in your speakers, to get the entered rotation angles correct. I felt it was important enough to start its own thread
  10. My Akudorik surrounds are just below ear height when sitting in the listening position. I have my Akudoriks sitting on top of a pair of Aurelex SubDude HT’s, with the spikes sitting on top of marble coasters for each spike, to raise the height of the Akudoriks. This brings the surrounds a bit closer to ear level
  11. I used a protractor, similar to Baba Yaga’s. 👌 If you don’t have a protractor, just print one off on your computer from a downloaded copy, or use Baba Yaga’s image above on your iPad and expand the image. I also wanted a straight edge, to ensure that I was exactly 90 degrees from the front wall , so I used a T-square that I would have used for a drafting table. Then I used the laser on my laser measure to ensure that I had a straight line to use as a reference. This process is probably more simple with square speaker cabinets, but my Akubariks and Akudoriks have rounded sides, so a little more tricky to line up
  12. I had an email from PDW today, that he had spent some time today, getting his speaker rotation measured accurately and entered into SOv2 for the speaker toe-in. He wanted to know if it made any improvements to sound quality. He had originally entered 10 degrees toe-in for his Akudoriks Into SOv2 but found out that it was actually 8 degrees rotation of toe-in. He surmised that a difference of 2 degrees would probably not make much difference to sound quality and sound stage, but it turns out it was significant. He encouraged me to more accurately measure the toe-in of my speakers. I found my drafting t-bar, my protractor and a laser measure to help facilitate a straight line to more accurately measure the angles. I suppose you could also use a carpenters square and a protractor, but I did not have one available. I am embarrassed to say that when I originally entered in the values for my toe-in on my Akubariks and Akudoriks, that my guesstimate was way off. I had originally entered my Akubariks as a -17 and plus 17 degree toe-in, and with more accurate measurements today, found out they were actually -10 and plus 10 degrees.The Akudoriks were originally entered as -125 and plus 125 degrees toe-in, and with more accurate measurements, turned out to be -105 and plus 105 degrees. So my original estimates on speaker rotation were not even close. I reentered the correct angles, and then pressed finish in SOv2, to calculate my new profile. I am please to say that improvements in sound quality were significant in stereo and in surround. I played several of my favourite demo songs in stereo and noticed that the bass , and specifically the drums, were now prominent and present in the presentation of the music. Overall, the music was more relaxed, cleaner and more detailed. In a word: superb. The real surprise came when I played Donald Fagen’s Nightfly, and The Doors album Waiting for the Sun, in 5.1 surround. Nightfly is an album that I have played thousands of times and know every note. The music now seemed so much more alive, detailed, and listenable. I could not believe all the detail I had been missing, with Jim Morrison’s squeals and guttural sounds in the background vocals, that I had not heard before, as well as some surprising instrumentation. The Doors drum set was very prominent in the music, with the thwack of the drumsticks, rattle of the snare drums and shimmer of the high hats like I had never heard it before. The overall presentation was quite different from what I had heard in the past, and I ended up listening to music all evening. This was an extremely useful exercise and my great thanks to PDW. If you don’t toe-in the speakers, then this thread will not be useful to you, but for those that do.......enjoy.
  13. There are many books and articles written on this subject, and it can get quite technical. The simplist explanation I have read is from Primacoustic, that you can place bass traps in any corner. If you have absorption panels and diffusers, place them on opposite walls. For example, in my listening room, I have some absorption panels on the front wall, and the diffuser panels on the rear wall, behind my listening position. In my experience, place each panel in place, then listen to see if it makes an improvement. Moving the panels a few centimetres to the left or right may make a difference. Don’t overdo it, as too much acoustic panelling can have a detrimental impact and can take the life out of the music. Bookshelves filled with vinyl or books, as well as plants in the room, can act as diffusers
  14. The Akudoriks certainly respond well to good subwoofers. I heard a Katalyst Akudorik system in northern Sweden, that had a pair of REL S5 subwoofers, with each subwoofer placed in between the Akudoriks. Set up with room acoustic treatment, that system rivalled a pair of Katalyst 350’s in many respects. It was staggeringly good for a fraction of the cost of a pair of Katalyst 350’s. I like REL, Velodyne, and JL Subwoofers, and they should serve you well. The real catch though would be a Linn Melodik Subwoofer. One of the guys here has a Sizmik 10.5 , and it truly enhances the listening experience of his Akudoriks. I use my Katalyst Akubariks for the low frequencies, and they certainly compliment my surround Akudoriks speakers. I don’t recommend placing the subwoofer at the opposite end of the room from the Akudoriks, as you may experience timing issues, and it can be hard to correct for. One forum member has used a mini DSP to compensate. I have found that placing the subwoofer directly behind one of the Akudoriks is a good place to start, or very close to the Akudoriks, such as just inside the pair of speakers