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stupra

Wammer
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About stupra

  • Rank
    Junior Wammer
    Junior Wammer

Wigwam Info

  • Turn Table
    LP12 & Tigerpaw bits
  • Tone Arm & Cartridge
    Ekos SE & Akiva
  • SUT / Phono Stage
    Radical and Urika 2
  • Digital Source 1
    Akurate Systemhub-I
  • Digital Source 2
    Pioneer CDR
  • DAC
    Questyle CMA 400i
  • Power Amp/s
    Exaktbox-I Katalist
  • My Speakers
    Kudos Super 20A
  • Headphones
    BeyerDynamic T5p with Questyle
  • Trade Status
    I am not in the Hi-Fi trade

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  1. Hello mate, How about some proper lid buffers that contact the plinth or a 21St century form of lid damping. Mine date back to 1986. When you get some, come and fit them! £33.33 should cover it!! Stu
  2. Ive got a pair of Royd Minstrel in black veneer, I'm the second owner but they were only used for 6 months due to another upgrade. They were last seen in the cupboard above the stairs...
  3. @Phobic, i have exactly this situation. Added the Gaia feet to my Kudos Super 20's and initially they sounded good but I've noticed I've no top end on the sound. They were exceptionally detailed and clear before adding the Gaias but the bass really tightened up by adding the Gaias. How did to rectify your warm sound, assuming you kept the Gaia's in place on your speakers? TIA.
  4. An effective and easy test of the speakers without dismembering the drive units (if your cables are long enough) is to get a 1.5v AA or similar battery, remove the speaker cables from the amp and touch the positive terminal of the battery to the positive cable, likewise with the negative terminal and wire. Look at the woofers and see if they move. If you've got assistance, get somebody to do the battery end and put your ear to each driver carefully. you'll see and hear if any of the drivers are not responding. 1.5v is enough to make the woofers move but not enough to damage them. Just don't leave the battery connected to the speaker wires for too long!
  5. Welcome! As Kelly says, so many options, price variations and types to choose from. Some basic questions: Do you need sound isolation? In ear, over ear, on ear? How much is the budget? I use beyerdynamic headphones, very comfortable over ear type. DT990 and T5p 2nd Gen. Both very accurate tonally and good stereo imaging. Give us all some more to work on. Replicating the "Linnsound" via headphones will be difficult. Suggest listening to some (when lockdown ends!)
  6. Hello Nestor, Here is my Simon Price rack filled with Akurate gear and the LP12 on display on top
  7. Put a picture of your newly refinished speakers on here so we can see the whole system in its glorious gloss black!
  8. I'm glad you contacted Simon and you're happy with what he has done. He did my Keilidhs in gloss black to match our furniture. Yours do look amazing though, all matching! He certainly does a thorough job and his service is spot on.
  9. Johannes Can I recommend Simon at Grammo Services | GRAMMO He is simply superb at getting a customer exactly what they want. I have known him 25 years. Give him a shout. He has refinished my Keilidhs into gloss black. Its a stunning finish but he can do any finish you want Stu
  10. You are quite right, passive tri amp isn't possible but aktiv is. Sorry for the incorrect information
  11. I see you've got a spare LK100. Why don't you daisy chain out of an LK140 into an LK100 so you tri amp the Keilidhs?. That's how I had my Keilidhs configured . If you do, be aware the speaker phase is out, you need to put positive cable on black speaker binding post and negative cable on red binding post, otherwise you;ll get a very poor bass response. Youve nothing to loose as its a free upgrade as its lying around!!!!
  12. Received my GAIA 3 for my Kudos Super 20 A along with the carpet spikes today. The original Kudos spikes left decent "holes" in the carpet when viewed from above, ideal to eye-in exactly where the centre of the carpet spike needed to go, as the cup of the carpet spike has a concentric circular finish. Once the carpet spikes were pushed home into the carpet and I swapped the Kudos spikes for the new GAIA's it was just a case of lowering the speakers onto the cups. One thing I have done during the setting up of the carpet spikes is to put some kitchen roll into the cup, allowing the GAIA to revolve for tweaking, cause when them rubber cups locate into the carpet cups, they do stick and I don't want to be faffing under the GAIA's to reposition the carpet spikes if they come out, specially the back ones! I haven't wrestled with the actual levelling yet, I did read somebody's post earlier in this long thread saying let them settle, I'm giving them 24 hours and review the level. Obviously, curiosity got the better of me so I had to have a listen. WOW. Everything is so much focused and they're not even tightened down yet! Height has increased by about 40 millimetres, so a dabble of SO2 will be needed of course. Along with the baseplate of the Super 20's downward facing port they have become a little bit more noticeable but nothing major. One thing though, I need to ensure left speaker is the same height as right speaker as well, if I can. Is height differences as noticeable as levelling side to side/front to back? Still takes some getting used to seeing a speaker wobble when pushed instead of being coupled solidly to the floor! I would say, a worthwhile improvement, glad I took the plunge. Fun to be had setting up then playing tunes to hear the difference. Stu
  13. Just wondering, not sure if this has been covered, Is there an easy way to level the speakers with these fitted, bearing in mind that the logo faces front? is it complicated? Do i take it that the bottom lock nuts are secured tight to the GAIA unit and the levelling is done with the top nut as it screws to the bottom of the speaker? Stu
  14. Have you read the Linn doc regarding measuring the room and features? Here is the section relevant to measuring doors and windows: How do I measure my room features? When measuring room features only the feature itself, and not any trimmings, should be measured: for a door only the door panel should be measured, and not the door frame; for a window only the window pane should be measured, and not the casement. Any non-rectangular features, such as circular windows, should be modelled as a rectangular feature of equal area. Measure the GLASS only, not the frame, not the reveals (sides of windows), youre trying to make it more complicated than it needs to be! Stu
  15. Add the door (the door size, not the frame in the wall) as a new feature, then do another "add feature", and add "single glazed window" and overlay the "window" or in your case, the glass in the door, not forgetting to locate the glass exactly on the door. Its a composite build-up of items. Try it. Likewise, any door, double glazed or single glazed, you can akurately add glass into any door or feature. For example, I have an electric flame effect fire made out of marble but it has a large glazed panel where the flames are. I treated it as a concrete structure with a single glazed window in it. Once into these features, you can get quite carried away with features in the listening area. As others say, decide if you're going to listen with the door open or shut. If you choose shut, try what I've suggested, if you're leaving it open, leave an opening in the wall with the door in it Any help you need, give us a shout Hope this helps
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