lostwin

Wammer
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Everything posted by lostwin

  1. Get yourself over to the HiFi Wigwam equivalent forum for washing machines and other white goods. It's quite an eye opener - much as someone stumbling across this forum when wondering about a new stereo... https://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/forums/ This is a particularly good place to start if you really want to dive down the rabbit hole http://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/buying-advice/washing-machine/2925-the-great-washing-machine-swindle/
  2. I would try and keep to the original spec Mullard rectifying valve in the BP when replacing. I tried a well regarded alternative in mine (forget which) but the sound was a flat as a pancake in conjunction with my amp.
  3. Well I am really liking this mod. I tried a few configurations with different materials for the upstands and the arm board, at the very least it has shown me that this is another element of the Gyrodec that is tweakable with quite marked differences.
  4. That’s interesting, shows the importance of loading sorbothane correctly as it’s effectiveness as an isolator is reduced if over or under loaded. Different thicknesses and hardness are available to adjust, or you can just add more pieces of the same type to spread the load.
  5. I would be interested if either of you had views on the Roksan Tabriz arm that was very much a competitor against Rega and other lower mid price arms at the time. I still use mine but wonder how much improvement could be wrought with another arm under £1k, or if it remains competitive in the £500-£1k space today?
  6. Pete @gwernaffield is best to advise on the pylons, I think he has seen all sorts of variations and can custom adjust accordingly. I assume that you are measuring between the tops of the upstands, this may be exaggerating any variation as they may not be standing perfectly perpendicular. The lid hinges are not designed to support the weight of the lid so I don’t think this is a fault. It is best for sound quality to take the lid off when listening. My deck is much older so I don’t have the same motor as yours. Based on what I have read in this thread it sounds like you need to try the rubber doughnut tweak - I think this was the first one that Pete came up with. This secures the motor better within the housing and prevents any rocking of the spindle and noise in the housing. Don’t be discouraged, the engineering on the TT is generally very good - especially for the money - the pylons and a few other choice tweaks build on that and take it up to a new level. They are all fully reversible as well.
  7. I have never tried the Pederson armboard so can't directly compare but based on the recent tweaking I would say that the rubber mounts do seem to make a big difference (more so than the wooden arm board itself). At well under a tenner might be worth a try. eBay link to the type of mount below but check your measurements first as I know that the SME armboard is thinner than the Rega one so you need taller mounts - I think the ones I used were 15mm x 15mm. Choose a UK seller as you will wait forever for ones to be delivered from China. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4Pcs-M8-Male-Female-Anti-Vibration-Rubber-Mount-Car-Bobbin-Isolator-Damper-30x20/224001245167?hash=item342783bfef:g:4BEAAOSwrhBZCdTb
  8. This is actually my second attempt at a wooden arm board for the Gyro in the last couple of weeks. The first - fashioned from bamboo drinks coasters - showed the approach had merit but ultimately was not accurately enough made. Latest version is from hardwood decking whose weight and thickness is a good match for the original aluminium piece. I am finding that the wood gives a calmer presentation without any loss of detail. Also, a lot like when the pylons were first fitted, the legibility of vocals and lyrics is noticeably enhanced. Like a few of you, I have been using those industrial rubber vibration mounts in place of the standard plastic spacers under the arm board. With the wood as well I felt this was maybe too much of a good thing - over damping perhaps - so tried with the plastic ones again. Oh dear, where did the bass go!! The rubber mounts are back (as is the bass) but now stiffened a little against lateral movement with copper collars (pipe clamps). Initial listening gives me hope that I have found a good balance between the respective assortment of materials.
  9. Gentlemen’s hobbies invariably have a very purest goal that provides a perfect excuse for technology old and new, endless tinkering, heated debate and considerable expense. It’s seems to be in our genetic programming to make the journey far more rewarding than the goal.
  10. Nice job on the rack 👍🏻 Bamboo seems to have pretty good qualities for audio purposes, I have just crafted a replacement arm board from some bamboo drinks coasters and I am liking the results. For me the trick to isolation is getting the balance right between effective deadening but without going to far and sucking the life out of the presentation. A combination of materials that retain a bit of life but don’t have a pronounced ‘ring’ placed on absorbing supports seems to work best. my inclination would be to keep things simple under the legs of the rack and focus on isolating the individual shelves. Take a look at the spring supports sold under the Nobsound brand as an option on the Isopucks. And yes, damped wobbling movement on speakers works fine for me too!
  11. My suggestion is to do the pylons first, these will alter the tonal character and become the new base starting point for other changes. It could be that to counter the standard springs ‘roughness’ you have compensated too much on VTA and VTF so everything lacks sparkle. I wouldn’t be too concerned about the tonearm cable dressing with the new pylons, they don’t bounce like the springs so this is far less critical. Not sure on the pylons resonant frequency to any airborne vibrations, but the bounce frequency can probably be measured in seconds. Best advice with any other kit changes is to try and listen in your own system to alternatives. Once the lockdown is over I am sure that Wammers local to you would be happy to bring round different phono and amp options which will give you a much clearer indication on the potential direction to take.
  12. I’m not Jack, but a couple of thoughts if it helps. The Morch tonearms tend to have interchangeable arm wands with different effective masses, this is one way you can adapt to your chosen cart. Also possible to fine tune with a little more weight at the head shell, such as using brass mounting screws. 9 - 11hz is in the target range.
  13. Ah well, I dilly’d and I dally’d but just couldn’t risk the postage in these lockdown times. At the price this looks an amazing buy, if Kegworth gets re-scheduled will you be bringing it along Nigel?
  14. Can see the picture but aren’t these the ones with the 30” woofers?definitely a bucket list, must hear speaker for me
  15. DIY, £70, brilliant results and without concrete slab now. Just saying...
  16. I posted my experiments on changing the properties of the counterweight in a DIY thread a little while back. In particular, adding horizontal inertia. I mention it now as most underslung counterweights seem to take the form of a long cylinder whereas inline weights are more disc like. I found differences came from having the weight spread to the sides of the pivot point Rather than mainly behind it. This might account for some of the change heard with a typical underslung weight.
  17. Interesting, not too many arms allow on the fly VTA adjustment - isn’t there a top end one that has this possible by remote control from your listening chair? VTA can affect tracking weight, particularly if the weight is of the underslung type. Could it be what you were hearing was a combination of VTA and tracking weight?
  18. In my mind - or to my ears anyway - sound from VTA changes from soft to hard - tail down to tail up. The change from tracking weight is more heavy & slow to bright & lacking body within the range too much to too little. It’s definitely a case of fine adjustments within those parameters and can vary cart to cart. Helpful?
  19. I would like to change my 5 pin connector on the end of the cable from the base of my tonearm to the amp. Currently it is the 90 degree type and I want a straight one. How easy is this to do and could you point me in the direction of a reasonable quality one as I don’t know quite what to search for. Thanks!
  20. Yep, David is seeing quite a few of these now and he worked on mine too. Anything from a light service to the valve equivalent of a nitros oxide boost kit is on offer !
  21. I can always tell when you have been out at sea for a little too long... 😀
  22. In raising the question I was not expecting a definite response on revised arrangements and dates. It would be good nevertheless to have an update on the latest thinking as forum members - both exhibitors who have paid out upfront and potential attendees - would surely want to express views. Questions that come to mind are; - Has the hotel provided a full or partial refund on the hiring for the weekend or perhaps put a caveat around requiring a re-arranged date? - Is the hotel prepared to consider any options for later in the year? - If the earliest realistic dates are say from October onwards, is it better not just to cancel this year and re-group in March 2021? I'm sure that none of us wants to hear of the organisers having taken a massive financial hit from the cancellation, but equally many of us have paid out upfront so have vested interest - so if a workable solution needs to be found it would be good to begin to understand what might be involved.
  23. Make take is that this is not a specific performance upgrade and probably the result of something far more prosaic. Maybe a change to the machining technique needed to produce the platter. As far as I recall they were calling the gyro platter impedance matched before this change, in fact I don’t think the blurb has changed at all. The need for the inverted bearing is because this is now the standard production upgrade replacement for those still with the early aluminium platters, but you need to change the bearing on those decks as well. I have been wrong before, but I am not quite at the point of getting out the router and carving holes in the bottom of my platter just yet! 😀
  24. I have never quite got my head around the benefits of an arm upgrade, it just seems less direct than say changing a cart. Having to re-evaluate following your and others recently reported experiences. Out of interest, do these arms use a standard single point Rega fitting?