neonmagic

Newbie Wammer
  • Content Count

    37
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

3 Neutral

About neonmagic

  • Rank
    New Wammer

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. yeah he suggested rebuilding both too, but I'm loathe to spend another $250 on speakers that I will try and sell. I want to minimise my losses not enlarge them! I'm not paying 700 euros to replace both tweeters with tweeters that may or may not work, may, or may not sound good in the cabinets, etc. The more custom work I do to the speakers, the more the resell price will drop...I don't like cutting off my nose to spite my face!
  2. not even Dynaudio is sure of that. They still sell (apparently) a t330D "standard", but even Dynaudio won't guarantee it'll either fit, or acoustically fit in. SF modded the drivers that they got from Dynaudio apparently. I believe the faceplate of the standard t300D is different to the one used in my SF too. I'll keep it in mind, but I'll try my local guy first as it's gonna be the cheapest and easiest route.
  3. yes, I have been searching for replacement tweeters online, a few available, but they are on what I consider dodgy sites. When the seller tells me no paypal, cash only, pay in advance, I walk away lol. scam, scam, scam. These are rare tweeters, and go for very expensive prices. The morel MDT33 tweeter was a clone of the Dynaudio unit (I believe there's a Scanspeak based closed floating around too, but can't remember the model number). The easiest thing for me is to see if my local repairer can do the voice coil replacement. Dynaudio sounded very wary of this, indicating that it was very difficult to get the new voice coil assembly placed correctly. The best plan of action is to get these cheaply fixed, sell them, get replacement speakers. I've learnt my lesson - buy speaker, have it for 5 years, sell it and buy a new replacement unit. Keep to the cheap end of the market.
  4. Yes, I will get my local repair guy to do his repair, but only on the damaged tweeter. I am not going to spend more money on the SF speakers than I have to. I refuse to throw good money after bad. Lessons in life have taught me that when a certain time comes, it's better to simply offload the problem to someone else and move on. I'm sure there are many wealthy SF fans who'll be a used pair of Electa Amators and have the money to get them repaired with authentic driver replacements. Dynaudio quoted me 700 euro (roughly) for the pair of standard T330D units. But, they do not know if they can be easily adapted to the SF speaker, and how they will sound. That's a lot of money to consider on a 'what if'. At this stage in life, and with my limited income, I cannot consider such things. It is far better to sell the speakers, fund some updates to budget equipment that will suit my needs and put the rest in my bank account for a rainy day. :-)
  5. Well, Dynaudio just got back to me. They can't/won't fix it, and say that given their age, more will probably go wrong and that Sonus Faber did custom stuff to the driver units that were sold to them by Dynaudio, and they aren't privy to what SF did. Such a bundle of joy of news to hear. Dynaudio did say that they can sell me a pair of standard T330D units still, but didn't mention the price. I'm guessing it's North of AUD $2k. I'm not investing 2k into a speaker worth 4-4.5k. Sorry, not sorry. SF simply referred me to my local Australian retailers lol. Superb customer service! NOT. But wait, it gets better. I was referred to the local Australian SF distributor. Left a message on Monday, no reply yet...prolly will never get one. Australian distributors tend to overcharge for products by 300% and offer no service and support after sale. Yes, it is that bad in Australia. There is some light at the end of the tunnel though - I've found a local speaker repairer who has a lot of experience dealing with SF speakers and he can offer me a custom made voice coil assembly unit (based on Morel) for under AUD $250 that he says is at least 95% as good as the original Dynaudio unit. The guy's also interested in buying my Opera Consonance Cyber 845 SETs too (at a fair and reasonable price), so I may sell them too (one channel is not working, I posted about it on here a year or so ago). That'll fund my new preamp and monoblocs and get my system more modern. I've learnt my lesson - never buy expensive speakers ever again. I will prolly get these fixed and then sell them and invest in cheaper speakers (those Apherion Versus III are looking very yummy). Sorry, I am just cranky. Nay, very cranky. PS I'm also into Astronomy, and there's an American company named Astro-physics who's been in business for over 40 years and you can GET every single spare part that they've ever made. EVER. Now that is service. The audio industry could learn a lot from them. edit: I've been burnt before - DPA DAC (failed optical units; no replacement parts); esoteric p500 CD transport; no laser assembly. Had enough of being burnt by expensive gear. I know why people don't get into audio anymore - overpriced, poor value for money in most instances, full of snake oil and BS, poor QA, and poor longevity with today's gear.
  6. An excellent point, thank you! I didn't even think of that. Australia has been quite hard on lock down during covid19, much harder than most other countries around the globe. We have stuff just starting to open up fully for business now after 6 weeks of lock down.
  7. well that is encouraging. I shall persist and see what magic can be worked! Any tips for covering the speaker up sans tweeter if I am able to send it back to Dynaudio for repairs? I don't have any other speakers atm, and can't really afford to buy any, so I'd be without any music for probably 6-8 weeks that's gonna be painful!
  8. yeah that definitely sounds like it's likely. I did contact Dynaudio a week ago, no reply. Are they just slow, or don't care? I'll give it another 3 or 4 days and then ring them.
  9. OK, so I did steps 1 and 2 (remove woofer, remove tweeter philips screws). I tried pushing from behind, but the tweeter will NOT budge. I do not have strong wrists (multiple breaks and fractures over the years), but my hands are small for a guy. I ended up putting the woofer back in as I didn't want to leave the enclosure unsealed. I had a lot of trouble getting the woofer back in so that the screw holes lined up...took near 10 minutes, much frustration and a lot of swearing. I am now loathe to try again, given how difficult it was to get the woofer back in and I'm worried about excessive unscrewing of the screws might damage the threads in the wood. Don't really wanna tempt fate... I will have to mull this over...
  10. Yes, that is my baby! I had to google what mastic was, never heard the term before. I tried pushing out, but it wasn't budging. I don't want to resort to using a small plastic mallet, but I fear that I might need to. Would this soft dome felt tweeter be using ferrofluid? I have zero idea about the tech. I know the term, but nothing about how it's implemented in a tweeter and if all tweeters use it or not.
  11. Hi guys, One of the tweeters is not working - no sound at all, so I presume voice coil is damaged. Replacement tweeters have long since been discontinued, Dynaudio isn't responding to my Email, and used replacement tweeters go for the price of a small car it seems...when they (very rarely) show up for sale that is. It hasn't worked for a few years, but I have been unemployed and unable to do anything about it. Of course, to add salt to the wound, my 6 year old niece has thought it would be fun to push in the dome with her fingers... Anyway, I wanted to remove the tweeter so I could test it across the +/- terminals to see if there's any ohms registered. I have removed the woofer without issue, but I cannot seemingly remove the tweeter. I removed the 3 philips screws (there are 3 hex bolts too on the tweeter faceplate but i haven't touched them). What am I doing wrong? Has anyone done this themselves, with this particular model, and can offer me some advice? I have found another thread that said that the coil was corroded where it meets the metal ring, but it was successfully re-soldered on. I do not know if I would be lucky enough for this to be the case in my situation, but I can hope. Of course, I can't replace the tweeter even if I buy a used one, without removing the current tweeter... Any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers, Dave PS I have not contacted Sonus Faber yet, but I suspect that they will be no help.
  12. Cantilever can be repair, I'd talk to Lyra directly. Be aware that the suspension may have been damaged too. Good luck! I feel your pain - I had bought a 2nd hand Lyra Clavis is perfect condition back in '98 or '99 and upon installing it on my Rega RB300, I dropped it...broken cantilever. I had mine repaired by the famed Garrett brothers with a line contact stylus. It has served me well ever since, although the left suspension is starting to fail.
  13. yeah, I had a quick look tonight. My suspicion is that things will be cheaper in the UK.
  14. Update: swapped the AC power cord between the 2 amps - no change. Left channel does not power up. Now, I had adjusted the bias pot all the way counter-clockwise before I'd tried the amps last night, so thinking that perhaps that has something to do with my problems, I adjust it roughly to where it was before. Left amp still does not power up. I then returned the AC power cables to their original amps. I swapped over the 845 valves. The Right channel (with the 845 from the Left), powered up AOK. So, the Left 845 valve is AOK. The Right 845 (which worked fine in the Right monobloc) did NOT power up in the Left amp. This would make me logically think that something has gone bust in the Left amp. Question: if the 5687 or E88CC valves were either damaged, or not seated fully properly, would they stop the 845 and amp from working? Both driver valves feel well seated to me. I did mention, earlier on in this thread, that the 845 base in the Left channel felt "loose", so I wonder if it's not somehow set right, which means when the 845 is seated in it, it is not mating electrically correctly. I am not game to go prodding lol. I think I have exhausted all troubleshooting avenues, and done enough logic troubleshooting to point the blame at the amp itself, and not the power outlet, power lead, power board, AC power cord or 845 valves themselves. edit: my voltmeter buzzed in buzz test mode when I tested the fuse for continuity (at least, I hope I tested it right). I will ring Jaycar in the morning (where I purchased the voltmeter from, and clarify that I have tested the fuse correctly). 2nd edit: I'm going to plug the probe into the Left channel and test it with my voltmeter to see if anything is indeed live. Have I missed anything, troubleshooting wise? Any other suggestions? How much would you expect it to cost to have the unit troubleshooted and repaired (presuming it's a bad capacitor or something similar, rather than an OPT)? Sending the unit back to Opera Consonance in China is out of the question - freight alone is prohibitive. Then, there's dealing with Australian customs, which is about as pleasant as having your teeth pulled via pliers.
  15. it's not a bad idea and easy enough to do and can't do any harm to try. It's 5pm here, have had a full on day, still doing chores around the house before I can even think of sitting down for the evening. Will post later after I've tried a few things.