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Jail4CEOs2

Wammer
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Everything posted by Jail4CEOs2

  1. There is still a clinical edge. As I just said to Zee, the problem is all the detail and musical insight lives in that edge too, so I've still gotta put the Ninkas back in and see what they do with the AEDSM and sub. They won't be 3K, but they will be different. Paul, what volume level do you typically listen at? I'm generally in the sixties or high fifties. Often, I will get to mid seventies for brief stints.
  2. Yes, stereo kardz of that vintage....not the modern mono Chakt kardz?
  3. So the Majik, like the Classik, can not accommodate internal aktiv kardz?
  4. I think I tried all three two days ago here in Taiwan, and none worked. I don't know if I've ever tried to use them, so I put it down to it being geofenced here in Taiwan. Are you all in the UK?
  5. The 126 is a lovely addition once my teething issues were sorted out. I've discovered that the sub needs a bit more of a jolt to awaken than the Exakt Sub Box puts out at 50 on the volume pot. I've found the Linn system can always wake up the 126 by quickly turning the volume up to approaching 60. I had also not gotten the proper measurements in SPACE. Somehow I put my head embedded half way into the concrete wall two meters from the listening position, and the sub was 90° out of orientation to what SPACE was calculated for. I discovered this as I was wanting to try a different roll off, from 68Hz down to 55Hz. Once SPACE was put in order, including this new lower roll off, the extra 3db gain I had added to the sub settings was immediately taken down to zero gain, as the bass was overwhelming! SPACE is incredibly powerful, and can be used for good and evil! What are best practices for roll off? High or low from the loudspeaker's roll off? The system is now completely transformed. The musical flow, the leading edges of notes, and positions of players, everything was totally lifelike. On Miles Davis, So What, Paul's bass strings, and the body of the instrument, are both tangible as separate entities in a way I've never heard before. On Thursday, I was working on my bike, and I noticed the Torx wrench I bought to aktivate/deaktivate my 109's and realised I should pop the trim ring off the 126 and see if it worked on the 126's fasteners. It's doubtful it had ever been tightened as each fastener took well over a quarter of a turn for each fastener. Well, sha-zam! More power. More cohesion! And the clarity came up yet another notch. And for the first time I was feeling bass through the concrete floor in my feet, and my chest! So everybody, tighten your drivers! I wish I had the chance to try a sub without an Exaktbox sub versus with it. But it is fantastic now. The sub brings so much more than just bass. On another thread Elad has said a sub needs toe in, so I know I can look forward to even more upgrades from minor tweaks! I've heard really good reports on SVS SoundPath subwoofer isolation feet. They might keep the floors from shaking, but apparently they might add focus and clarity.
  6. No internet? No problems! You can bring your own network. Bring your router and some Ethernet cables. I did this exact thing with my MDSM two weekends ago. I put a bunch of music on my ThinkPad, plugged it, and the DSM, into an old router I had lying around, and used Foobar 2000 and Songcast to get the music into the DSM. There probably are some compromises in ultimate sound quality in that chain, but it'll get you going. I was thinking about doing a music server on the Stinkpad, and then using my phone with kazoo, but this saved that hassle.
  7. While they all had their start last century, try this century's Wilco, Yankee Hotel Foxtrot, Leonard Cohen's last two records, Raising Sand by Bob and Alison, James Taylor, October Road, Jackson Browne, The Naked Ride Home, and Steely Dan, Two Against Nature just squeaks in to this century too, as it was released in Feb 2000. That's a fine load of this century fare.
  8. Thirty three is an early fall day. Wednesday I was riding home on my scooter and I commented to myself it was a lovely fall day, probably 31ish. Not bracing, but I could sense the back of summer had been broken.
  9. I'm dying to hear the eventual outcome! Picture attached is WAY off topic, but cool! The spine of mountains means, at present, I'm warm and dry!
  10. Minim runs on NASes, which are basically Linux. No other insight in this fraught arena from me.
  11. I've always wondered about the little details. The beauty of the Ninkas is they have provisions for five connection points on the rear, so you don't need to butcher the rear, but was there a workaround to creatively stack the connection plates, or did you have to remove them, leaving a void? A Dremel and some acrylic could fix this, but....details.
  12. I don't know this exactly, and am only replying to urge you, and anyone else using these, to throw any spy devices you've wasted money on directly into the e-waste bin, but I do remember some people wrote their own Alexa skills. If the evil monopolists have stopped this option, use it as another reason to break the Amazon habit. A walk up and down a local high street is another gentle prod in this direction.
  13. All this talk of connecting to the music. Connections being made here for sure! All these folks need an NGKDSM ... or not? They definitely needed hankies. And this is pretty good too. Sniffling yet?
  14. Could you please PM me the email of the repair shop, and the approximate date they may have gotten it?
  15. The key to the Linn modules is the ability to adjust the output, roll on and off, phase, gain etc. An Exaktbox sub does some of that, but not phase, which is very important.
  16. @akamatsu, do you still have that schematic? I reached out to the Linn helpline spelling out everything (EVERYTHING) in this thread, and will link them to it on their reply. I'll report back with what they think the menu settings output is indicating, and why it isn't coming out of standby.
  17. Yes to all of these Paul. Before I even tried to listen to anything I followed the instructions from the Linndocs on how to factory reset the unit, which I did. The instructions for using the Exaktbox sub indicate everything should be set to default. On Friday I was able to use the buttons to navigate all the menu settings. However Saturday I could use the buttons to navigate to each menu item, but could not select any settings within the sub menu. I connected successfully on Friday using both the Exakt sub box, and my OPPO 105D to the sub. I connected them to the lowest pair of three RCA. I was able to, not concurrently, get LFE signal produced by the sub from the OPPO, and music signals when connected in this manner. So on Friday both worked, and both were able to get the unit to come out of standby (the single dot of green light on the LED panel). On Saturday, no matter which music source I tried to use, including multiple factory resets, multiple unplug and plug-ins, and different cable setups, from both output sources. Nothing could force it out of standby, and I couldn't select individual settings from each feature setting, only the default was automatically selected. As for the customs doing something, the seller wrapped three heavy steel bands around the package, holding a nice piece of plywood in place protecting the bottom, where the woofer is located when double box packaged in the original Linn packaging. These were still in place when I received the unit, and it took superhuman effort to cut them off. So I am absolutely certain that customs did not molest it.
  18. Most of this thread was also posted in another thread, and was way off topic, so I thought this should also land here where future searchers for info on the Majik 126 can find it. It arrived, sounded great for a day, and stopped working today, I'm sad. The amp actually says "Sizmik Module". What really pisses me off is that in attempting to check the board, in the very robust aluminum case btw, all four torx screws stripped when I popped the amp case out of the sub. I use the passive voice as, contrary to popular belief, I'm not an idiot. I know how to unscrew screws. That all four screws stripped says defect. Sub amps are a very special situation. High power, high heat, trapped in cramped unventilated spaces. In this case trapped inside a small MDF cavity that probably acts as insulation rather than shedding heat. I always do a metric ton of research before I buy. I came across significant amounts of comments, for many brands of subs, that have died, so I knew I was taking risk. When it played so beautifully yesterday I was relieved. That's why I'm so gutted today. @Akamatsu (in the other hijacked thread) makes a good point, I guess I should reach out to the seller. My quandary is also driven by his experience with his Sizmik. Finding a local repair service is best/cheapest. The logic board still allows me access to the menus, but nothing other than the default value can be selected. That is the impossible part to be fixed by a local solder jockey. The issue is it won't come out of standby. Only the single little light indicating power is illuminated. I've reached out to Linn first though, asking if these units are still being serviced, and explaining the situation. If an essentially new amp module, versus a repair job is on the cards, given sub amp longevity, what to do?
  19. The amp actually says "Sizmik Module". What really pisses me off is that in attempting to check the board, in the very robust aluminum case btw, all four torx screws stripped when I popped it out. I use the passive voice as, contrary to popular belief, I'm not an idiot. I know how to unscrew screws. That all four screws stripped says defect. Sub amps are a very special situation. High power, high heat, trapped in cramped unventilated spaces. In this case trapped inside a small MDF cavity that probably acts as insulation rather than shedding heat. I always do a metric ton of research before I buy. I came across significant amounts of comments for many brands of subs dying, so I knew I was taking risk. When it played so beautifully yesterday I was relieved. That's why I'm so gutted today. @Akamatsu makes a good point, I guess I should reach out to the seller. My quandary is also driven by him. Finding a local repair service is best/cheapest. The logic board still allows access to the menus, but nothing other than the default value can be selected. That is the impossible part to be fixed by a solder jockey. The issue is it won't come out of standby. Only the single little light indicating power is illuminated. I've reached out to Linn first though asking if these units are still being serviced, and explaining the situation. If an essentially new amp module, versus a repair job is on the cards, given sub amp longevity, what to do?
  20. Does somebody know if aktivating Tukans requires solder based surgery, or just swapping a few jumpers?
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