Bodgit

Wammer
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    512
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About Bodgit

  • Rank
    Experienced Wammer
  • Birthday June 25

Personal Info

  • Location
    Woking
  • Real Name
    David

Wigwam Info

  • Turn Table
    AR EB101
  • Tone Arm & Cartridge
    Roksan Corus Blue
  • Digital Source 1
    Wadia 861
  • Digital Source 2
    Squeezebox Touch
  • DAC
    Wadia 861
  • Integrated Amp
    MF X-P100/X-A200s
  • Pre-Amp
    Wadia 861
  • Power Amp/s
    Muse Model 300
  • My Speakers
    SCM40 MKI /EPOS ES14
  • Trade Status
    I am not in the Hi-Fi trade

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  1. Powerline devices like Devolo do not need to be on the same ring final as all circuits are connected by copper which is quite a good conductor of electricity. There is probably a range limit but that's all. I've got a Ubiquiti AC Pro wifi access point in the kitchen, it has both 5GHz and 2.4GHz and as above, the 5GHZ is faster but doesn't penetrate as well.
  2. My current setup is the best I've had and hope it will improve once the amps come back from being fixed/upgraded Wadia 861/MUSE 300s/ATC SCM40
  3. You're starting to sound like Keith
  4. Damn, I've recently rewired my entire house including a separate ring final for the hifi/AV but I didn't check the directionality of the T&E cable. Better rip it out and do it again.
  5. I'm going on what was said, use of the wrong word is not my responsibility. Also in his quote was "Timing is not the responsibility of the ‘transport’." which goes to the core of my disagreement.
  6. How does a DAC "clock" the data if the data is just data with no timing information? It can't. If the DAC "clocked" the data you wouldn't need a transport. The transport provides the data with timing information, otherwise its just data.
  7. Sounds like a McIntosh pre-amp could be a good fit for ATCs which are, if anything, a smidge on the lean side. I've got a Wadia as the pre and it goes well, for what that's worth.
  8. Being of an electrical engineering type, I would concur. If we assume cables can make a difference, then having x length one side and 2x the other vs x length both sides could also make a difference. You want low resistance and low inductance I believe, capacitance can be higher as the trade off (you can't have them all low, it is a trade off), if you have cables with higher resistance/inductance its going to make more of a difference. Now whether any of these differences are audible is another matter, you could buy some cheap cable and experiment to see for yourself. FYI The speaker cable I use is advertised as being able to be used with differing lengths as its impedance matched, but then its not cheap
  9. This makes no sense to me. To me, the CD transport has two Functions (a) to read as accurately as possible the 1s and 0s (reading the raw data). (b) to 'stream' these 1s and 0s as accurately as possible to the DAC and to ensure the leading and trailing edges of the 1s and 0s are formed as near vertical as possible - this has nothing to do with the data per se but is all to do with timing. In delivering the 1s and 0s in a timely fashion, the clock is inherent in the transport data stream. Do this differently i.e. differing amounts of jitter, and the DAC will receive different inputs and so produce different outputs.
  10. That's amazing value, have a free bump on me!
  11. A word of caution with class D amps that have "clever" power supplies. Mine produces a very "clean" sound and is great in all ways except emotionally engagement, however when I was speaking with John Sampson @jsaudiorepairs he said these class of amps typically run out of steam at a certain power output as the power supplies/capability becomes limited - particularly with non-traditional toroidal power supplies. Its less likely to be an issue if you don't drive the amps hard with high volumes, but if you have difficult to drive speakers and want high sound levels, best to try such amps out at listening levels to ensure they properly deliver at all volumes you're likely to listen to. If they have a nice big n heavy toroidal then assume its going to be the same issue as any other type of amp.
  12. Bodgit

    Not hifi but..

    Some of these phrases or rather word salads must have come from the likes of Micheal Eric Dyson.
  13. While we're on the subject of amplification, thought I'd mention (if you haven't already read) that I'm having my MUSE 300 amps substantially upgraded. I had been tentatively looking at the NORD NC 500 mono blocks to replace them at a cost around £2k. However the amp upgrade should be a bit less than that and give a pair of 300W mono blocks that have far more current capability and really make my SCM40s sing. Its mainly upgraded toroidal and bigger/better smoothing caps but they're the heart of a power amp. Assuming it works out well, it means my long term ATC upgrade path might change from the active 50s to passive 50s, or possibly to a pair of MK2 40s depending on budget.
  14. I prefer a combined CD/DAC/pre-amp...then just a power amp WITHOUT any digital gubbins