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About teuchter85

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  • Turn Table
  • Tone Arm & Cartridge
    Ekos SE/1, Kandid
  • SUT / Phono Stage
    Urika II
  • Pre-Amp
    Akurate DSM/3
  • Power Amp/s
    Akurate Exaktbox-I
  • My Speakers
  • Headphones
    Grado RS2e
  • Trade Status
    I am not in the Hi-Fi trade

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  1. This is purely hypothetical, but if someone wanted to use the "old" parts to make a DIY Radikal "renew" for a second deck that they own, they would need to source several additional parts: A Mini Dynamik power supply, or an original non-dynamik power supply of the type that was fitted to Radikal & Uphorik prior to the introduction of the Mini Dynamik. The non-dynamik power supply was PCAS 551 I think. A power switch and cable to go to the power supply. A cable to go from the power supply to the main board. Not certain, but I think they are JST series EH connectors. An LED and cable to go to the main board (assuming you want to know if your "renew" is on or off). A suitable enclosure into which to mount the electronics, plus board mounts/screws. Of course you are not going to find anything off the shelf that is 100% suitable and so you will need to do a number of modifications such as drilling rear panel holes for the XLR connectors. A control switch for fitting to the second LP12 i.e. the switch with the two LEDs. Not sure if the Radikal and Lingo 4 switches are the same (they may well be), but AFAIK the Radikal switch is different to Valhalla & Lingo 1-3 (these older products use a flexi cable, and the Valhalla only has one LED). A couple of screws that are reused for the Tacho mount. Items 1 & 6 are going to be the really tricky ones. Not that I have given any of this any thought whatsoever!.
  2. Possibly a misunderstanding, but that is not how I read it - oh the joys of the English language . This is from an earlier post by Ian H. - "Your assumption is correct. A new motor and control switch are also part of the upgrade kit." When stated as being part of the upgrade kit and not the upgrade process my inference was he meant a physical electro-mechanical switch.
  3. There is no new switch - the existing on/off switch is retained. There is though a new Tacho board & bracket in addition to the new motor and main board.
  4. "Due to feedback we have received from both Customers and Retailers with this new Radikal II upgrade you can now choose to dim the front panel LED." Now if they would only add the ability to turn OFF the rear panel LEDs on my AEB-I just like I can on my ADSM3!.
  5. More importantly, how long before you are able to determine if the optimal screw torque values are the same or different between Radikal 1 and 2?
  6. Not sure if this has already been covered, but one thing that some users will appreciate about the new Radikal 2 is that you can dim the front panel LED. This is done via a jumper on the main PCA.
  7. My secondary system is in my office and is comprised of a Rega Planar 6/RB330/Ania Pro/Fono MC, NAD 3020A (fully recapped) and a pair of Kef Q90 loudspeakers (3-way floorstanders from the early 1990s). It is nearly always used for "background" music while I am working and is thus played at relatively low volume (more on the topic of volume later). However, this system plays a very important role as it is my main way of discovering new bands/music, and also exploring the full discography of bands that I already know and where I already own some of their material. This is done via YouTube and more recently Tidal. I just use the output of the soundcard in my workstation plugged into the NAD, but I find it perfectly satisfactory for this purpose. I mainly use the turntable for reacquainting myself with records from my collection that I have not listened to in a long time, but I also use it for new vinyl where repeated listenings are often required to appreciate the value of all the tracks. Although used at low volume the system does a great job of getting all the basics right and sounds well balanced without being distracting while I am working. Of course, finding exactly the right volume to be able to both listen to and absorb the music playing in the background, but not distract you from your work is the trick. I know that if I don't like something on this system then I definitely will not like it on my main system. I have tried using my main system (see signature) for "background" listening when I am working on my laptop but the Keltiks are not well suited for this purpose as they can sound very constrained and not well balanced at low volume. IMHO the Keltiks really need to be played LOUD. With each step in volume they open up more and more, and deliver increasingly impressive dynamics, scale and drama!. In fact when I try and play music in the background I find that they almost DEMAND that I stop what I am doing and just sit down in front of them and keep turning up the volume until I find the sweet spot .
  8. I was going to ask about the source volume offset for an LP12 a while back but I never got round to it so I'm interested in the info in this thread. I'm going to try the +5 this evening (I also use Kandid/Urika II). Incidentally in the Linn Docs Wiki it states "Volume Offset: this to raise or lower the comparative volume level on this input compared to other inputs. E.g. an LP12 may require a +5dB offset, but CD player may be -8db". Purely out of curiosity I looked at the fixed/default gain settings for the various analog MC stages and Linto/Uphorik/Akurate are all 64dB (when on high gain) but the Urika I is 62.5dB.
  9. When I decided to tighten up the drivers on my Keltiks it was pretty obvious that the previous owner had taken the rings off at some point and had done a pretty poor job of reattaching them with hot glue. I removed all the hot glue and the original factory applied double sided tape (a very tedious process I might add) and applied fresh double sided tape, which worked great.
  10. Just catching up on this thread!. That is what I did also and with the same "logic".
  11. Thanks Fred!. This is all really helpful. It's a pity that Linn are unable to document this kind of thing with any clarity. I would maybe add a "thus" to that last bullet i.e. "Exakt Design filters supplied by third parties can only be applied via Konfig and thus can only be used with SO1.". I'm also assuming based on your last bullet that Linn will have to add support for third party Exakt Design filters into the Linn account app if they do retire Konfig as the grapevine is indicating.
  12. Hi Zee, Not going to bore you with the details but I have a long term plan with the ADSM/3 and really like the flexibility it gives me should those plans happen to change. Was recently offered a great deal on a used Klimax Hub but the ADSM/3 is staying.
  13. Interesting. I was unaware that Exakt filters were designed for a particular version of SO and would like to understand if that was indeed the case. There is nothing that mandates the use of SO with Exakt (it is completely optional) and I can't recall seeing any mention of any SO linkages/dependencies in all the Exakt filter release notes, but I do tend to be a skim reader. I can though understand SO needing to know if you are using Exakt or not. I may have this wrong but I thought that all the SO signal processing was done inside the DS/DSM, and all the Exakt signal processing was done inside the Exakt engine in the EB or Speaker. Both SO and Exakt are digital filters so it would make sense to me for SO to need to know if it was outputting directly to a DAC or if it was outputting to an Exakt engine to do additional signal processing. SO may do things a little differently depending on what comes after it in the signal chain. It is of course possible that in an Exakt system the SO can be offloaded from the DS/DSM to the Exakt engine which can then combine both SO and Exakt processing to be more efficient. Not sure if Linn have ever shared any detailed architecture information.
  14. I would try my 4200 on the back of the AEB-I but it is the balanced input version and the AEB-I only has single ended outputs. Also, I'm really trying to downsize in terms of box and cable count and the two box solution fits well with my future plans. Yes, the 038/2 sticks out of the cloth a little bit which can be visually distracting . Exakt filters and SO are two separate things although they both manipulate the signal in the digital domain. Linn themselves have not developed OW1 Keltik Exakt filters, but they are available from speakerfilters.blogspot.com (forum member sunbeamgls) for a fee - there is a two week trial period I believe. I total agree regarding how well the drivers work together and I don't want to mess things up either, but I may just invest in a pair of OW1s just to have on hand in case one of my 038s die.
  15. Thanks Zee...I meant compared to the analog aktiv set-up. It may just be a psychological effect though where the grain/hash/edge of the old set-up was simply drawing additional attention to the treble. With the AEB-I everything seems much more balanced and coherent throughout the frequency spectrum with no emphasis in any particular area. I do need to do some more vinyl listening with my reference albums to be sure. I really like that it is a two box set-up with a single connecting cable and the integration between ADSM/3 and AEB-I is excellent (e.g. putting the ADSM/3 to sleep automatically turns off the AEB-I) and configuration via Linn account was very straightforward.
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