Wine man forthe County

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About Wine man forthe County

  • Rank
    Wine man forthe County
  • Birthday 02/10/1957

Personal Info

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  • Real Name

Wigwam Info

  • Turn Table
    Pink Triangle Anni
  • Tone Arm & Cartridge
    SME IV + AT ART 9
  • SUT / Phono Stage
    Gold Note PH10+PSU10
  • Digital Source 1
    Chord Blu
  • DAC
    DAC64 Mk2
  • Pre-Amp
    Chord CPA3000
  • Power Amp/s
    Chord SPM1200E
  • My Speakers
    A.Physic Avanti 2018
  • Headphones
    AT ATH W1000
  • Trade Status
    I am not in the Hi-Fi trade

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  1. Our 11 yr old Bosch started making a squeaking noise, with a bit of isolation I narrowed it down to the drum bearing. Bad news was the bearing was not accessible so the whole drum had to be replaced for around £300. Given the age of it and cost of repair we decided to scrap it and bought a new Samsung for £399, 6 months on and so far so good! It has digital inverter and ecobubble technology so what's not to like.
  2. I noticed on the manufacturer's web page that they do supply replacement grills for some models, might be worth asking.
  3. For her birthday I treated my wife to some new beads for her Abacus. It's the little things that count.
  4. The best sounding unit like this that I've heard is the Ruark R4 or R5. Way over budget but I have seen a few used R4's going around £200-250.
  5. A chap called Andy Moore does pop up on the AV Forums site occasionally. He is an ex-Arcam engineer so knows the stuff inside out.
  6. As a temporary fix try this.. fix the arm back in it's rest and 'work' the lift/lower assembly up & down about 30 times. This sometimes loosens the damping and it will work again. If it's any consolation this happened on my SME IV once - I think the room got cold while we were on hols!
  7. If it is not supported by Cyrus on that list it means they can't/won't repair it in GB. IMHO £300 would be quite a lot to spend on a player of that age anyway. I would investigate third party repair agents or look for another used model if it gets worse. Best of luck.
  8. I have one in a second system, it's the one with the 'stripes' across the volume button. I did eventually have it modified by Les at Avondale many years ago (with external PSU) and it is still working well. By modern standards it is perhaps lacking in inputs (Phono, CD, Aux & Tape) but a lovely sounding unit.
  9. IMHO sometimes it's not 'just' about the sound - arm B might be better than arm A etc. I have owned a SME IV since the late 80's. it has survived deck changes, cartridge changes, house moves etc and has worked flawlessly throughout. After over 30 years of use I sent it back to SME for a service last year and it came back looking like a new arm. That sort of longevity and service back up can be worth it's weight in gold.
  10. I have a pair of Audio Physic Avanti, they have huge spikes but my deep pile carpet and underlay were huger still. I couldn't get the speakers stable no matter what I tried. After measuring I carefully installed cross headed screws through the fluff and into the floor boards where the spikes had been. The speaker spikes were then balanced on these and much adjustment with a spirit level then ensued. Once this was completed the speakers were rock solid, the sound difference was much improved. The Avantis are designed with structural integrity at heart so it only seemed fair to give them every chance of a firm anchor.
  11. I used to have an Ortofon Rohmann, gave me many years of good service until the suspension collapsed. I still have it but don't know if they can be re-built or if the Ortofon Exchange scheme is the only option. I did buy an ART9 to replace it which does sound a notch up TBH.
  12. Personally I would try one of the Sugden amps within your budget, they do work beautifully with Proac speakers. The UK agent for Proac is fond of this pairing too.
  13. From my time in the trade I'm pretty sure that M.Fid used RC-5 commands which are very common. Audiolab and Cyrus for example use these so their remotes will command the other on some functions. Alternatively get some servisol electrical contact cleaner (or the WD40 equivalent), take the remote apart (if you are happy to do so) and give all the contacts a clean. They can become tarnished and buttons can sometimes stick over a long time period so a clean up might well cure it. Best of luck!
  14. How many zones/sensors have you got? The main panel should always tell you which sensor has triggered. Mine is a wired system (early 2000's) with about 11 zones, I've had a couple of sensors which have become faulty and triggered at random over the years. I pay for an annual service which means any call outs for faults are free, they just replace any duff sensors. In my set up there is a way of 'omitting' each zone/sensor which would help isolating the problem. Hope that helps.
  15. Kevin.. that is a locking BNC connector by the look of it, quite common on some upmarket models. You can buy an adaptor with a BNC plug on one side and phono socket on the other which would sort you out. I remember Chord (Electronics) saying they don't recommend adaptors as a long term solution so you would be better getting a lead made up to suit.