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About Dasher

  • Rank
    Experienced Wammer
    Experienced Wammer

Wigwam Info

  • Turn Table
    1 LP12 K- 2 LP12 A-
  • Tone Arm & Cartridge
    (1) Ekos 2 (2) Ittok
  • SUT / Phono Stage
    1Uphrk 2 Lej'klou
  • Digital Source 1
  • Digital Source 2
  • DAC
    1 Kat 2 Non Kat
  • Integrated Amp
    1 No 2 No
  • Pre-Amp
    1AEDSM 2 Kisto
  • Power Amp/s
    1 AEB-i 2 5125x3
  • My Speakers
    1 Keilidh 2 Espek+
  • Headphones
    1 Senn560 2 Stax L5
  • Trade Status
    I am not in the Hi-Fi trade

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  1. I had a think about what I posted here and rather than just edit, where it would likely be missed, I thought that I should just correct it a little. If by any chance the 'original arm' that you have is a Roksan Nima then I would keep hold as this is the one exception to the other Linn entry offerings that I would add a decent MC to. Also, if the itch hasn't gone away and you are considering a new arm, the Roksan Sara, if one could find it in Linn fit, is worth a listen. I heard one of these before they became the Roksan Sara and was just about to purchase when they disappeared, only to reappear again later (by which time my Ekos 2 was in place).
  2. If you have the budget for a New Radikal then there may be ways of spending it that give a better overall balance. Like others I'm assuming that you have a Karousel, but of not then it is a good place to start. Again though, if it is a not-so-old Majik LP12 then your Cirkus may have very low hours on it and it may just be that spending a net £600 to replace something that could be only just bedded in doesn't quite make sense to you (The Karousel is good though, and to my ears it is certainly worth the relatively low cost upgrade). I haven't heard a new Radikal yet and so it is difficult to say whether it is worth a more than £2K premium over a decent, recent used one (mine was ex-demo and I paid around £2k for it). A recent used one could free up £2k though - which would buy a used keel and give you change. Remember that until 4 weeks ago an Akurate cased Radikal, Keel, Karousel was only bettered by a Klimax cased Radikal. The only problem with a used Keel is that the arm collar limits arm choice. A PU7 will go on a Keel but again, without a budget it is hard to say whether this is an option for you. There have been several arms fitted to Majik LP12s over the years and personally I wouldn't spend much on any cartridge to go on any of them - a higher end AT VM 95 will sound pretty good on any of them. I wouldn't go near an Ekos SE without having the Keel and a Radikal, and I wouldn't go near a Kandid without having an SE. If the Cirkus is very new then you could conceivably kept and have a used Keel, recent used Radikal, new (non Ti)Pu 7 and a very good MC for around £7K. This is not Klimax level but it is over the hump where diminishing returns come into play. For £8k you could add the Karousel and take out the Cirkus.You could save £1-1.5k by sourcing a used Ittok/Ekos/Ekos2 but then you are into a risk zone that you may not be comfortable with. You should also get around four figures back for your Lingo and around £250 for your Majik sub chassis. At the lower end of outlay you could have a Karousel, Kore, Used Radikal 1 and a good, checked over used Ittok for around £4.5k. The reselling of the Circus,Majik Sub and (I guess, Adikt) should buy you a decent cartridge. This also, by the way, whilst not "Klimax" will also build into a fantastic sounding LP12! (even without the L4 to Radikal swap). Lowest cost to give significant lift could be Karousel, Kore, good serviced Ittok and something a step up from an Adikt - under £2.5k once the Kore,Adikt and Cirkus have been moved one. Actually, this would be my starting point if I had £2.5k available. It comes down to how much budget you have available.
  3. The Keltiks would appear to be a 'must try'. I was giving this some thought earlier today. One other route would be the PMC Twenty series. I have heard these on the end of an Active Linn system and they impressed - a lot. I've heard a couple of different models but can't quite remember which. There must be Exakt filters available otherwise I wouldn't have heard them.
  4. 100% agree with this. It takes time to get it right, but at least VTF isn't difficult and the Lyra suggestion (on a Delos) works. VTA (on a Linn arm) is more tricky but I've found that if I get it absolutely parallel on a thick LP then there is enough forgiveness to be able to use really thin ones too. This doesn't work the other way around - if the arm slopes down towards the pivot then the SQ just falls way. The fortunate thing about cartridges at this price point is that there is a reasonable choice and the all have different signatures and so personal choice can likely be easily satisfied. I don't buy the 'one is better than the other' but I do agree that they all present the same thing differently. I've not seen or heard the new Benz - but are they diminutive enough to fit on an Ekos (non SE2) headshell?
  5. I do it myself but if your asking such a question then I certainly wouldn't advise that you do the same. I've taken LP12s apart and put them back together again for the last 40+ years and, although you always have to start somewhere, I wouldn't start with a Keel, Radikal, etc simply because you are paying a lot of money for performance and the LP12 has to be set up right to provide that. An expert will get that performance out of the LP12 for you. The relationship with your dealer is also the key to sourcing the used components. There is little to go wrong with a Keel (although abuse is always possible with anything). Others may well comment, as I have no experience of mounting an Akito on a Keel - but you will have to make sure that your Akito is compatible with the Keel arm collar. Unlike the other sub chassis the Keel comes with the arm collar as an integral part of the chassis/arm board.
  6. You could keep your eyes open for a pre-owned Keel, I picked one up recently for £1800. I don't use a Urika but a Uphorik - it increases the box count but is a fantastic phono stage and more flexible on cartridge choices - ex demo ones can be had for less than £1500 and they appear quite regularly. If you wish to take advantage or the Radikal and use a Urika then you could look at a Urika 1, these are plentiful on the used market. Also, with either Urika, you get to sell on your Trampoline - which frees up another £100. This is one way of increasing your speaker budget - personally though I would put the savings into a better arm.
  7. I did a very similar thing to Paul, bought some Linn silver cable by the metre and then used WBT connectors that I soldered up. I was using 30cm lengths as jumpers or daisy chains. I now use 1.2m Silvers ( I replaced the short ones as cheap used 1.2m became available over a long period of time). I cannot say that I noticed any difference at all - with one or two exceptions - I could detect a difference when my soldering was below par. I just went back and re made those lengths. In my experience the soldering and the quality of the connector itself is far more important than the length (at least it is up to 1.5m - I don't have anything longer than this).
  8. I don't know the Argo at all but I do recall at the time of the release of the Delos 8 or 9 years ago that Argo users were switching to the Delos when the time for replacement arrived. The Kleos is very nice but significantly more money as you say. The Delos itself is at the top, price wise of the Krystal, XX2, Hana ML grouping as it is. The trade in scheme is very valuable!
  9. I'd also go with a Delos - the trade in makes it very difficult to ignore. The Delos does require pin point accuracy in set up (I know, they all do - but this is especially true with the Delos). Is your Ekos and Ekos, Ekos, SE or SE II? The reason that I ask is that there is very little room on my Ekos 2 and the Delos only just fits. It goes on - but it requires cartridge tag origami. I've done a couple now and my current one was really tight. The previous one was marginally easier and I suspect on the old one (which was pre owned) the stylus tip to rear of body had reduced over time (we are talking 100-200um here being the difference between space between the tabs and no space between the tabs). Once you get it to fit though, and find the sweet spot (for me this is 1.75g VTF, an absolutely parallel arm to a 180g pressing and antiskate around 1.5 ( there is more tolerance on the anti skate) the Delos is wonderful on the Ekos. I have my Uphorik set as if the cartridge was a Krystal - works well there.
  10. I was referring to their visual relationship to the room - the 808s would dominate my room, the 707s would be large and the 606's - well, the porridge would be all eaten up!
  11. I'm sure that my room isn't large enough either - the 707s are large and the 808s live up to their name!! The 606s are pretty though!
  12. No - never compared the two. I'm not the biggest fan of the Linn array approach (heresy, I know - but that's just my ears). I heard the same pair of passive Akubariks in Sheffield at the same time as Paul - they were good. The 808s have an immense sound.
  13. I don't know what the availability of Kudos speakers is like in the US Zee but having heard Titan 606, 707 and 808 through an Exaktbox-i (Kat) then they are definitely worth a listen if possible. If the Kudos were to replace Ninkas (I don't want to say 'like for like' - but similar in size and to an extent nature then try the S20A. Again the S20 A can be taken passive with the AEB-i (Kat). No multi-array but to my ears none the worse for it. You could also just keep the 4200 and use an Akurate exaktbox (Kat) as you only need 4 channels of Exakt. To my ears the Titans are something else - everything that a Majik Isobarik could have been - but speakers are of course a very personal thing.
  14. The Halfords stuff is deionised. To be honest I have small steam locomotives and have invested in a (cheap) still - so I use double distilled for everything. The rinse step I found to be essential (and yes, I was hoping to get away without it)! Funny you should mention Laminar flow - I did actually consider it! What I do have though is linear air flow (kitchen extractor) - This is necessary when using ethanol for a couple of hours - but I do try to keep air driven particles to a minimum, yes. It is possible to get overly anal about the whole process (and I probably do) but at the end one is trying to remove crud and then get it away without recontamination. If you think in those terms then the process will work. I should have added above that I batch process and when doing so I try to do all 'new' records in one batch, all charity stuff records batched, etc. - so that I keep the more contaminated stuff away from the 'expected to be relatively clean' stuff.
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