Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Dasher

  1. Played quite regularly here - big fan! Bob James is on tonight as an alternative!
  2. Interesting! I do use the 10 minutes dry time and have no static lift - but I do use Ilfotol and I do 'gun' my cleaned record before placing on the mat. With regards to drying time, I tend to try and play immediately after washing and this gives the thing more 'drying time' before it is newly sleeved. Dont risk moisture inside a new sleeve - no matter how expensive, you will get mould growing.
  3. Me too - had I been able to afford it (those Deccas seemed cost a fortune even then) I would have had one on mine.
  4. I had a GH228 many years ago and fitted that out with a Nagaoka MP11 - primarily because that was the limit of my budget. I was always happy with it and found it sounded fantastic for money. You could therefore try a more modern equivalent such as the MP110 - it won't break the bank. Setting up the GH228 and keeping it that way was a different matter! (I still have a soft spot for the GH228 though). I do use a Shure V15iii today on an SME 3009ii (improved). It is of course a well matched pairing as they were in effect made for each other. Just how well the V15 plays with a GH228 I have no idea but the compliance and mass matching of that particular SME presents a very narrow window. I can comment on the JICO range. I had a new-old-stock Shure elliptical for the V15iii and I changed it for a JICO HE (not the SAS) and it is fantastic - it was less than £100 direct from Japan and I cant recommend it highly enough.
  5. You could always just epoxy some discs to the plywood for the spikes to sit on. A whole world of material to choose from - each bringing its own signature. With the old SO shelves I had loads of fun with this - coins to start with and then all sorts of other materials. When you choose the one you like best you can then ream a disc out of the plywood to drop the contact surface disc into - nice an flush! At one point I was using microscope slide cover slips - they worked really well (I suspect that the Epoxy was working in tandem with the glass (of the two it was probably the thicker layer)!
  6. I though that you had - I could use mine too but it's long gone! (Having said that - I do like having the platter 75cm off the floor)!
  7. Yes I saw that the image was of an Audiotech but I thought Michael was saying that he'd had an SO in the past - probably my misunderstanding.
  8. In the days when I still used a Sound Organisation Turntable Support (Identical to yours) I found that there were significant differences to be heard by switching in and out different shelf materials. These were far bigger than playing with the actual points themselves (or making feet of various materials for the TT itself). These days I plonk the thing down and just listen to it - the music is far more important to me than whether I'm extracting every last drop from it (and whether I'm extracting each drop 'musically' ).
  9. I have a new Delos on an Ekos 2. I agree with Daveyf that it did require very precise alignment. However, there is some freedom of movement in the setting of the VTA. On the Ekos there is obviously no VTA on the fly adjustment and therefore VTA is realistically a compromise. I took a 'thin' record, set up the VTA to optimum and then played a 'thick' one. The change in rake brought about a seriously noticeable reduction in SQ on the thicker record. I then set it up in the opposite manner. Setting the VTA to be optimum with the thick record brought about noticeable less degradation with the thin record. Surprise, surprise I then tried on in the middle. The middle VTA again had little affect on the thin record but still showed degradation on the thick one. My take on this is that, certainly for the Delos, it is relatively intolerant of what I would describe as 'negative slope' (I'm sure that there is some audiophile term for this somewhere) - what I'm calling 'negative slope' is where the cartridge mounting is higher that the arm pivot. (On my Delos set up the Arm is parallel to the vinyl on the thickest record. The Delos (my Delos - they may not all be the same (my old Delos was much more tolerant of this (it came to me in a well used state) appears to be intolerant of the arm sloping down towards the pivot. I totally agree with the comment on VTF. In my case the Lyra recommendation is 100% accurate and any deviation (0.01 -0.02g) and the SQ suffers audibly. The bigger problem with an Ekos 2 is getting the Delos onto the mounting space in the first place (it goes - but only just)!
  10. That particular album started off as black, but as it wasn't vaccinated against the TYOvirus (turn yellow overnight virus) it became jaundiced and went noiser and noiser in the process.
  11. To be honest, given that any release agent is likely to be synthetic I'd be very surprised if an enzyme had any effect on it at all.
  12. Very nice Andy! I see that you already have full approval!!
  13. I'm with Jail on this one. Personally if I was looking for more 'beef' then I'd go 4200s which gives you the option of active as the 280s don't. I can see the attraction of keeping a Kairn and LK boxes to match - been there myself. The Kairn is a nice pre-amp. I went for AV 5125s to replace LK 140s and then had the visual mismatch - so I then went through the rest of the Pre options - Exotik, Unidisk SC, Kinos etc. The Akurate Kontrol is excellent and matches the 4200s. The Akurate Kontrol is a very different presentation to the Kairn but you soon get to appreciate just what it does - and it does it very well.
  14. Duke My findings are very is similar to Daveyt and that a combination of techniques (Vac and US) may well be best. For 'new' or visibly clean records though the US alone appears to be OK (I have limited experience with US - just the Humminguru). I work in a similar way to both of you. I don't exactly 'flood' the record initially. I load the fluid onto the surface before switching on the rotation. I make three stripes from the deadwax to the edge applied from a dropper (approx 2ml in total). I switch on the rotation and, using a Keith Monks brush, work this into the grooves over three or four rotations in each direction. I then vac off (the Okki Nokki has an annoying final 'drip' issue and so I vac off in two operations - which solves the drip issue). I then add water, again three stripes but maybe more like 5 or 6ml (I don't measure it) and run clockwise for 2 revolutions with a dedicated rinse brush and then 2 rotations to vac off. This is followed by 10-15 minutes air drying. As I use ethanol I have to work really quickly. It is important to ensure that the surface is still wet when the vac is applied. But basically yes I do what Daveyf does: wet, scrub to release the gunk, vac off (additionally I do rinse) and dry. I'm not convinced about the need for enzymes at all. Enzymes , if they do anything at all, will need time to work. Their use is probably driven by someone looking at either laundry or lab glassware (probably the latter as Triton X-100 is also a lab glassware cleaning tool). The laundry chemistry that may be interesting to try out is the use of anti-redeposition polymers. These polymers are able to 'capture' the gunk and transport it away from its original surface those preventing re-deposition. It's not an easy thing to try though as the chemicals are not readily available, the formulation expertise is high level and the polymer is matched to the target. For example, a key use is in trying to reduce the redeposition of colour dye that is lost from fabric (enabling you to wash that white T shirt with a red one) - this is a very different challenge to designing a polymer that captures engine oil released from the fabric and holding it preventing re-deposition. I think that redeposition is the Achilles heel of the US technique. It's best summed up as Vac Tecnique is like taking a shower, US is like taking a bath! (Oh, and I'm definitely no audiophile)!
  15. Yes, there is a difference between the DIW, DIW+Alcohol and DIW+Alcohol+Tergitol (and also just DIW+Tergitol for that matter). I've not used much IPA as I tend to use ethanol as my alcohol. Also my experience with DIW: Ethanol (in a vac system) is only in close ratios mainly 50:50, 60:40 and 40:60. I also use Distilled Water and not DI but the difference for our our purposes is minimal. Both the DIW and the Ethanol are sollvents and they are there to get the 'soil' (a molecular mix of proteins, fats and other cr*p) dissolved into solution. The soil dissolves at different rates in different solutions, hence the mix of alcohol and water. The Tergitol is a surfactant. Surfactant is shorthand for 'surface active agent'. What this means is that the tergitol acts between the water molecules and the surface of the vinyl, reducing the surface tension and allowing the water (or water/alcohol mix) molecules to spread into a thinner film. This also means that the water molecules can drop further into the groove (without the surfactant they are quite likely to just sit above the groove). The tergitol also does a second job (in fact it is its primary function) and that is to interact with the protein and fats (and any other lipid (fat) non fat homogeneous mixture. The tergitol molecule has two 'ends' - one of them likes to associate with the lipid and the other with water. This is really useful as what it does is allow the lipid to become carried by the water as opposed to sitting like oil on water (it is the principle behind mayonnaise). It forms an emulsion. Additionally it can break down complex biomolecules and in fact the main use (in the past my main use) of X-100 was/is to break open cells top allow scientists access to the cell content. My personal view is that getting the cr*p into a water suspension/emulsion is the easy bit. The difficult bit is removing the mix back off the vinyl surface without redeposition back onto the surface. I don't know how much fluid you place on the record surface - but in my case it is only a couple mls and so you can see that unless you get all the fluid off then you will be leaving a thin layer of the emulsified film behind. This film will still have some tergitol associated with it and so it is lifted back off with the rinse stage. I'm suggesting here that, when rinsing with DIW after a cleaning stage involving a surfactant that at a molecular level the water travels differently than when just using DI water alone. I think that this is a fair suggestion. Ilfotol has slightly different properties to tergitol. It's function is weighted much more towards reducing surface tension at the water / solid interface than forming an emulsion. This is why it is known as a 'wetting agent' and its use results in a very thin film of water. I'm a biologist with knowledge of chemistry - not a pure chemist! I hope that the above helps. I'm still learning about the US process and the role of additives. There does appear to be less redeposition - but this could be due to the volumes employed. I'm also uncertain as to what happens to the size of the micro bubble in the presence of surfactant - (public domain) peer-reviewed scientific papers are thin on the ground!
  16. I don't have Quad ESLs but have heard quite few. I just haven't got the room for them. Bass, for me, with 2 channel, would be fine but not for 5.x cinema. I do have some of the Stax ES Headphones that Paul mentions - mine are 507s with the Stax Valve Energiser. I love them - certainly my favourite headphones.
  17. Triton and Tergitol are in many ways very similar. The hydrophilic group (the bit that goes for the water, is very similar but the hydrophobic group (the bit that prefers the target soil (fat for example) is of the same type but different in structure. It is smaller. I've seen it written somewhere that it (Tergitol) was chosen by some vinyl reference library and that its size was a contributory factor. To be honest I tried quite a few anionic polymer surfactants, all of which were similar in structure to Triton/Tergitol and didn't see any difference between them. I was using a different principle though - in the ON I use Ethanol : Water in a 50:50 mix and this is doing the disrupting (breaking down) of the soil. I was just looking for a wetting agent to take the water/alcohol/soil mix away from the surface - which is why I settled on (a tiny amount of) Ilfotol. I'm not looking for the Ilfotol to break down the soil.
  18. I tried Triton X-100 when working out something to use with the Okki Nokki and noticed the same. I was a little surprised as I didn't (still don't) expect the surfactant itself to be surface substantive to the vinyl but what I think may be happening is that the X-100 is ripping up the protein and fat molecules and it is they that then stay with the vinyl. I haven't tried X-100 in the HG - it may well work against the US action. I use a tiny amount of Ilfotol (which is much more linear than X-100 and only a couple of CH3 groups doing the interface bit (wetting). I'm not seeing re-deposition with Ilfotol when used in the HG (I do see it with the ON) but would still prefer too put a rinse in place. I'm not 100% certain what is in Ilfotol - the SDS lists Poly Ethylene Glycol (Mono Alkyl Ether). There may be an additional surfactant which need not be listed on the SDS.
  19. HG have just posted that spare water tanks and filters are now available. These things seem to drop out of stock pretty quick and so if you need filters it's worth checking out. I have a spare water tank coming - this will mean that I can run a quick rinse after each clean by simply swapping a rinse fluid tank for a cleaning fluid tank. To data I've not implemented the rinsing stage per se but I have had to put a couple of records back through as they had a visible deposition film on them.
  20. I don't. I empty the water after each session of 4 or 5 records (typically 90 minutes or so). The 'filter' isn't very sophisticated! Another tip that I have for judging the length of time between filter cleansing (although I have now taken to giving it a rinse every one or two sessions) is to note the time that it takes to pour the 400ml into the machine. It typically takes 30/35 seconds. If it starts to take 45/50 seconds it is because the filter is getting blocked.
  21. If they are new ones then I'm doing at least 5 (I wash new ones on the 2 minutes cycle. If they are ones that I have owned from new but have never cleaned then I do 4 per 400ml. These I do on the 5 minutes wash cycle. If they are record fair / charity shop ones then I take a good look at them first and wash accordingly. I wash these on a minimum of 2mins wash followed by a 5 mins wash and I've found that with some they require a 5mins + 5mins and then dry at 10 mins (I always dry at 10 mins). The actual way that I try to work though is to do a couple or three new ones and then one dirty one to finish off the session. So that largely my record fair/charity shop purchases are done one per session (of 4 or 5 total records) at the end of the session. I shall probably develop a routine where I batch process the dirty ones on the Okki Nokki first and then finish them off on the HG.
  22. You can just leave it out to dry - I don't see a problem with that. I did notice though that it takes ages (days) to dry and therefore I put it in the tank to keep it covered. The tank lid has good ventilation without exposing the filter too much. I do stand the tank above (not directly 'on') the radiator though. Edit: I've yet to see anything collect on the (very) coarse filter in the base of the washing compartment - it would have to be gross to block that!
  23. They appear to be pretty good at gathering and passing on tips. The FAQ section is also 'live (for now) - let's hope that they keep this up. One tip that I have is to take the tank filter out after each session and give it a rinse in distilled water (you can just use 200ml in the tank for this). Once rinsed then stand it on its edge in the (empty) tank to dry fully.It makes sense to do this as it doesn't dry very well after a session if left folded in the holder. Bugs will grow on it if it isn't dried off properly (trust me, I'm a microbiologist by profession).
  24. I've had this too - well something very similar. I noticed that one record stopped rotating. Then with a little help it would go round and stop in the same place again. I was baffled but persisted and got it clean. When I took it out of the cleaner I ran my finger around the very edge and to my surprise there was the tiniest chip. You couldn't see it looking down flat to the record but it was there to feel. So yes I agree the HG relies on a certain weighting of the rollers.
  • Create New...