Monkey Wrench

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About Monkey Wrench

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    I am in the Hi-Fi trade

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  1. AV5125 / 2250 / LK140 / LK85 require the four resistor change as per Linn’s instruction. From the manual... Important: Due to the higher power consumption of the Aktiv card/adaptor combination, certain resistors (see Fig. 9) inside the power amplifier must be changed before operation.
  2. They are resistors and must replace four resistors on the main audio board due to power consumption changes when using a card/adapter combination. It’s a fiddly job simply due to the size of component and requires a fine tipped soldering iron, static management, steady hand, etc, etc. Ideally, your supplying retailer would attend to the work...or, and this is for you and your retailer to decide, supply you with the work instructions which they may download from the trade site. The same instructions walk you through card fitment, too.
  3. Architectural reference - the heat sink fins resemble the flutes in a Doric column.
  4. Believe what you want to believe. From your retailer’s website... Lingo 3 – Discontinued 2018 The Linn Lingo 3 received new and improved Akurate casework and, although the circuit board is the same as the Lingo 2, there are some sonic improvements due to mounting it within the better Akurate casework. Whether bought new or second-hand, the LinnLingo 3 represents a sound investment for many LP12s.
  5. For your information regarding the noisy motor video there is far more to the story than Edmund Chan may realise. The Lingo was purchased via mail order by a DIY enthusiast LP12 tweaker who later admitted it wasn’t even new. By his own calculation it was third, possibly fourth hand and had been half way round the world before he attempted to fit it. At any point it could have been dropped or damaged in transit. Lingo motors are not noisy. Each generation of Lingo is demonstrably superior to its predecessor.
  6. It is a simple rectangle of metal with three squared off prongs at one end. The middle prong fits where the banana plug goes and the two outer prongs fit the two small cutouts on the terminal. Originally they were supplied with the speaker but were quite soft and didn’t last too long. A local retailer may be able to find one in a bottom drawer. Plan B is simply take a pair of needle-nosed pliers, insert into the two small terminal cutouts, hold carefully and twist anti-clockwise to undo. Edited - Pete at Cymbiosis advertises them https://www.cymbiosis.com/product/linn-key-for-speaker-socket-collar/
  7. Some more info. The aktiv boost is NOT used in active operation. i don’t have a wiring diagram to hand but the connecting blocks with the pink and purple etc wires are passive. The connecting blocks with red yellow black etc wires are active. In passive mode and looking directly at the rear of the speaker terminal connectors, the passive blocks would be to the right of the xover board - ie behind the positive terminals. It is your choice entirely and you may already have tried but you could run the array in aktiv mode and leave the bass in passive mode. Firing up the super tweeter active is usually a good thing and will drag the bass units performance upwards even if left connected passively.
  8. Just to confirm You have reversed the connectors at the top of the xover for the array AND reversed the connectors at the bottom for the bass units
  9. For each speaker... Remove rubber trim ring around bass driver - use a credit card or plastic spatula to move it away from the wood veneer and then pull away. It has a flange which fits into a rebate in the cabinet. Avoid screwdrivers - you may mark the veneer. On earlier 109 the grille and trim ring come away as one. On later 109 they can be separated more easily. Remove bass driver - I think they are held in with torx bolts. The drive units need to be levered out and will usually resist. It may be easier to get a thin driver into a vacated torx bolt hole and lift upwards rather than trying to lever at the edge of the driver. There should be a thin foam gasket between the unit and the cabinet. Now you should have enough length on the bass driver’s cable to balance it on the cabinet or a pile of books. Better still, get a friend to hold it. Remove internal wadding. You will see the lower half of the crossover and two white wiring connecting blocks on the board. Swap them over - be patient - they are a pain to get off... Replace wadding, bass driver - nip the bolts tight but only til they stop turning plus a bit more - and rubber trim. Link the three positive terminals and link the three negative terminals. This returns the speaker to passive single-wired use. If you’re not comfortable with the above then pop into a decent retailer and get them to do the work.