I use a cheap plastic leveling "eye" that I put directly on the platter. I have the Solid base board (metal variant) and IKEA Lack table. Any leveling that is needed I accomplish by inserting a thin cardboard chip under one of the feet of the table. The LP12 is usually in level if the table is.
Use an air humidifier
Belief and conviction is about the same for me. I admit that one can still get the Majik speakers Aktiv, perhaps I should have said an integrated analogue active speaker, which is of my interest since I dont want to have an additional box of power amplifier. Yes, I have a LP12 (and a Pioneer CD player) but to me it seems silly to have to buy a DSM in order to replace my LK1/Dirak when I dont plan to do any streaming. I am sure Linn makes terrific streaming devices but I am simply not interested in that music format. I guess that my local dealer have to convince me to buy an AkurateDSM (which is btw twice the cost of my whole system), he has had no success yet.
A new CD player I think Linn could add a lot of products to the range, but they will not, because they do not "believe" in certain technology anymore like CD, or analogue preamp, or analogue active speakers. I also understand that they have to limit their product portfolio. However, I find that portfolio quite anemic today. Lots of product types have been ditched the last few years. I don´t "believe" in streaming, so they will not sell me a DSM....
"It was like a haze had been lifted" =maybe the reviewer sobering up?
I got my active speakers in 1985 and I was then looking for a "decent" preamplifier to go with them. In 1990 the local Linn dealer lent me a LK1 and for vinyl it was insanely better than anything I have tried so far (and mostly after too) so it was a no-brainer. First thereafter, in 1992, I got myself a Basik LP12 with a cheap Grado MM. Major upgrades have been Cirkus, Lingo, T-kable and Klyde, otherwise not much have changed. Yes, I am very reluctant to make changes, especially since I have been very satisfied with the system. Now, its mostly a restoration project.
I found the OT interesting since I also have an active speaker system. The active system should really have the upper hand. Provided that: 1) the Keilidh speakers are placed optimally. I have no experience of this model and cannot say how they work best but heavy feet like Klogs may work. Also the extended bass vs the Katans must be compensated with careful adjustment of the speaker-to- wall distance. If speaker placement is not optimized the extended bass will make the sound slow compared with the limited low-end Katans. 2) Since active, the speakers should have one power amp LK100 for each frequency range after the cross-over, I assume they have, otherwise the active drive seems pointless. Cheers
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