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Everything posted by Ceko

  1. Would a Project Amp Box be any good for this setup? I love some unity in a system and it’s a great combination with the phono box right?
  2. Probably a noob question, but what does it mean to "get it clocked"?
  3. Actually, no. I really love the sound of my Marantz, it's one of the best things of the ND8006. Also the fact that it's deadsilent when you spin a disk. It just doesn't fit into my system aestetically. Couple of things: My integrated amp has a yellow/orange light that burns if it's on. The Marantz has a yellow/orange light that burns if it's in standby. It's red when on. Maybe I'm authistic but it's something that can drive me mad. Also, I don't like the shape of the front and the silver coloured feet. It's a really solid piece of kit, very well built, but it only fits if your other stuff is also Marantz shaped. It's also too full of buttons for my taste and it has different finishes for the sides and the middle part. That's why I want my new player barren looking. Black. Just a few buttons. A screen that's not too articulated. If we're talking current-day cd-players for example I LOVE the looks of the following players: Exposure 2010 or 3010, Roksan Blak, Atoll CD200, CD50, CD100 and now of course the Line Magnetic LM24CD :-) Oh yeah, and I just wanted a cd player that.. wel... plays cd's, hopefully keeping the time to operate minimal :-)
  4. That looks interesting! Wouldn’t mind having that because it’s so weird :-D Next week I’ll first look into the Line Magnetic. That looks the part for me too. My only concern is that it’s Chinese. Don’t know why that’s a concern exactly but it almost seems strange that such an expensive player comes from China.
  5. Oh Wow that’s nice man! Right up my street for its looks! Is that Cambridge as in Cambridge Audio or is that an entirely different company?
  6. I might have a great deal on a Line Magnetic LM24. It’s not vintage like I wanted but it looks very cool. Any thoughts on this player? I might imagine that the valves have to be replaced every once in a while? What about the laser and the tray?
  7. Totally agree with you here. It’s all purely aesthetic if you ask me and at the moment the budget can be stretched a little but 1200 really seems to be a psychological max for me to pay for any digital player. But I’m not expecting anything to break down for at least a decade for that money :-D
  8. I’m in Europe, the Netherlands. I thought most of you were from the US so I was talking dollars :-) Top loading devices sound interesting, at least they don’t have issues with drawers! I like a minimalistic look. As little buttons as possible and as rectangular as possible. I have a DAC so I wouldn’t mind if it’s a transport only. Thanks for all your answers so far, seems like I have some research to do!
  9. Hi, I’m searching for a good, robust second hand CD player. Maybe you can help me? The player needs to be black. I don’t want too many buttons on it. I love the Sony ES players, especially the 555ES for the wooden side panels. But I heard a lot of them break down? I’m not sure how much is true of that story? I would like to spend up to about 500 bucks, there must surely be something special out there for that price?
  10. Then there’s also the phono input. Then I have to be careful to turn the volume way down each time I switch channel.
  11. By the way, if I decide to add a power amp, for example a class D power amp, will that influence / bring down the sound quality of my system? As far as I understand, power amps don’t influence sound as much as the pre amp, correct?
  12. Thanks for all your answers. I just bought these at amazon : https://www.monacor.nl/product/ila-1020/ I’m not sure how much quality I can expect as they have a selectable resistance but hey if they don’t work I’ll return them :-)
  13. I see... the attenuators is indeed something I should put between source and amp. But what if the source is USB.. then it won’t work. The only option left would be a separate power amp with attenuators between my amp and the power amp?
  14. Cool! I never heard of these attenuators. Is there much difference in quality or can I just purchase any ?
  15. I hope this isn’t a silly question... and forgive me for my english, I’m from the Netherlands. The volume knob on my amp is very sensitive. Just a liiiiiiiiitle turn and the volume goes way up. It’s only a 50wpc amp. The speakers are stated to be able to handle 80-200 watts. So I’d have thought I could turn the volume of the amp way open without any problems. But when I tried not even halfway volume there’s already distortion. Not that I’m listening at those levels but I was just curious. I was wondering. If I take speakers that are less sensitive than the MA Silver 300s that I have, would that give me more headroom for my volume knob? Or do I have to look into more sensitive speakers because the amp is “just” 50wpc? I’m just confused...
  16. Actually... that’s exactly how I do it
  17. Yes I’m looking to replace it. I’m looking for a more coherent system. The Marantz doesn’t fit in, I’ll put that to use in another system.
  18. These are some solid suggestions, I’ll look into them. Some of them seem to be out of stock forever however :-)
  19. Nevermind, the difference isn’t all that big, but Spotify Connect is an actual app running on the device, playing Spotify on your account. I believe the casting does some forwarding via google servers if I’m not mistaken. In my experience the former sets up a far more stable and responsive connection, setting up your mobile device as a remote control.
  20. Google Cast is actually a casting device. It does not run Spotify Connect.
  21. Thanks for the suggestions @deadflagbrews , the Yamaha sure is nice but it’s a bit above my budget. I feel as if there’s a lot to this WXC50 that I’m paying for, but not using. The chromecast Audio you mention isn’t really a Spotify connect device. @bencat @Man in a van I have a standard Pi 3 with Volumio, standard wall wart (would it benefit from linear power?). And when it’s connected and all it works fine. But the startup time seems quite long if you ask me. I’d have to measure it, maybe it’s just a feeling. Sometimes i have the strange thing that it’s started, I can connect to the interface via browser etc but Spotify just won’t connect. So those two things, startup time and stability, made me look for something else. As for why I switch it off; I use a big power conditioner that I just switch off so nothing stays in standby mode. But if you say it costs next to no power then yes maybe I can just leave it on. Edit: I stumbled upon the Arylic S50 Pro by Googling. Anyone experience with it?
  22. The source in my system that I use the most is Spotify, so I’m looking for a good simple Spotify Connect machine with a digital out (preferably USB-B if that’s at all possible). Right now I have a Raspberry Pi connected. But that thing takes a long time to boot when it’s powered on. Also the WiFi connection is kind of bad. I’m looking for something in the range of, say, 250 dollars.
  23. I discovered that a lot of 90’s rockbands that went completely under the radar when I grew up. Deftones, Alice in Chains, System of a Down. Love it! Also, I really disliked 80’s pop music before, but since I have my new amp I dig it a whole lot better.
  24. Thanks again for all the advice! Well it’s done. Today I walked into a Harbeth dealer. I found out that the 30.1 (or .2) is probably my favourite one till now. They had the 30, the super hl5 (probably too big) and the 7es3 (also great looking). Next week I have an appointment to listen to a few systems, I’m very curious about the sound, expectations are sky high of course. After that if I’m not completely sold by the first listening session, I’m going for the spendors A7 and the Q Acoustics 500. Do you care enough to know what my findings are or are you already fed up about my adventure?
  25. Have you seen the Vista Audio Spark II? Man I’d love to try that one out!
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