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klooker

Newbie Wammer
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About klooker

  • Rank
    New Wammer
    New Wammer

Personal Info

  • Location
    Worthigton Ohio
  • Real Name
    Kevin Looker

Wigwam Info

  • Turn Table
    Linn LP12
  • Tone Arm & Cartridge
    Ittok LV II Hana ML
  • Digital Source 1
    Moon CD Player
  • Digital Source 2
    PC
  • DAC
    Audioquest Dragonfly
  • Pre-Amp
    Rowland Coherence 1
  • Power Amp/s
    Classe DR8's
  • My Speakers
    Magies/Martin/Revel
  • Trade Status
    I am not in the Hi-Fi trade

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  1. I live in Ohio which I doubt is as wet as Panama but our RH rarely dips below 50% in the summer & I experience the same thing - intense static on about 1 of 3 LP's after playing and I use anti-static sleeves. There is no static when I put the record on the TT, only after it's played.
  2. Check out that dust! That took me over 30 years! So this is probably a question for Thomas, but will a Karousel fit or will some modifications need to be made? That's the board from my Mose Hercules.
  3. I have the 14, I think? Whatever was the lower cost machine in about '89. The records are fine after being cleaned. They get staticy after being played but it's only on some albums.
  4. I've always used the OEM felt mat but on some records I get a lot of static buildup - the mat sticks to the LP when I lift it off. I have an old Zerostat gun but it doesn't seem to help much. Anyone else have this problem? Do I dare bring up using a non-felt mat? I have been looking at the SPEC+ mat which has some good reviews but it's pricey IMO. Thanks Kevin Looker
  5. I couldn't find where he tested the Mober bearing. He loved the Mober sub-platter with his Cirkus bearing & I think Edmund even says the sub-platter is the most bang for the buck and easy upgrade. From my armchair analysis viewpoint, changing the spindle/sub-platter seems like it could make a noticeable change since it is the other half of the "bearing" element. I'm trying to research the upgrade options too. I did find one person who thought his Karousel sounded better with the Mober sub-platter.
  6. I actually learned about this site from Tom. I called him to order a set of springs & bushings. So here I am doing my homework and researching my options: 3rd party upgrade, used, OEM etc. SWMBO also won't be too happy if I spend a day driving to Ann Arbor & back to get my "record player" upgraded.
  7. The reason I thought they were tonearm specific is because of this photo from the setup & build information on Cymbiosis - the armboard hole matches the hole in the metal sub-chassis. Linn also states that versions are available for Linn, Rega, SME, & Naim. I'm pretty sure that SME takes an oval hole?
  8. I've updated my profile to include personal & system info - I'm essentially in Columbus, Ohio. I've been reading the Cymbiosis info which is a great reference & I just noticed that the Majik is similar to the Keel & Kore in that it is tonearm specific, correct? If this is the case, it opens the can of worms wanting to compare the Majik for $526 to the Mober for $600 since they are both tonearm specific and the Mober looks like a common man's Keel IMO.
  9. So what I'm hearing up to this point is that the bearing/sub-chassis is the weak link as opposed to the tonearm. What are the thoughts about the Keel vs. the Majik sonically. The Keel is expensive but also forces you to stick with only one tonearm geometry since the arm board is not interchangeable. Kevin Looker
  10. Thanks for the replies. Yes, order of upgrade is what I waned to know - identifying he weakest link(s) first. At this point my budge is about $1,200. Kevin Looker
  11. Hello. New to the forum & my first post. I have an older LP12, s/n 47809, with spot welded sub-chassis and black bearing housing w/white liner. It's fitted with an Ittok LVII, Hana ML and a Mose Hercules power supply. The Ittok was modified by The Mod Squad back in the late 80's - they added damping foam inside the arm tube and replaced the wiring. I'm contemplating upgrading but not sure where to start. Used Cirkus bearings & sub-platters are around for reasonable prices but I think a new sub-chassis would be needed to get the most out of a new bearing. Linn has made so many sub-chassis since then and there are also aftermarket Keel knock-off's like the Mober & Green Street. How does the old Ittok compare with newer tonearms? Any suggestions or experiences to share would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Kevin Looker
  12. Hi klooker,

    A very warm welcome to THE WAM - MUSIC & HIFI FORUM, you are now part of a fantastic group of music lovers and HiFi enthusiasts.

    We are very excited that you have decided to join us. It is packed full of interesting reviews, news and pictures of great HiFi systems and other tech gadgets for your enjoyment.

    Our members know just about everything there is to know about amps, speakers, turntables and all things music so feel free to introduce yourself and ask them!

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