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About Gazjam

  • Rank
  • Birthday February 10

Personal Info

  • Location
    Near Glasgow
  • Real Name

Wigwam Info

  • Turn Table
    Michell GOrbe
  • Tone Arm & Cartridge
    SME V - Dyn XX2 mk2
  • SUT / Phono Stage
    Firebottle+ MM/MC
  • Digital Source 1
    Logitech Transporter
  • Digital Source 2
    Oppo 103D
  • DAC
    Young +Si PSU
  • Pre-Amp
    Densen DM-20
  • Power Amp/s
    Longdog 300B SET
  • My Speakers

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  1. Seiko SKX 009 "Pepsi" Diver Watch fitted with specialist blue rubber strap especially made for the curved case of the SKX, a "Crafter Blue" strap, RRP is £60 strap on its own. Thinning the watch herd a bit, so putting this up for sale. Had it just over a year, next to zero marks or dings on it, not ever worn in the shower never mind taken diving! I'd say A+ condition, a couple of very minor imperfections but nothing that can be seen without getting really close and only in the right light. I hope the pictures show its been very well looked after. Kept perfect time, bezel rotation is solid with no slack. Looking for E180 delivered to U.K. No offers please, its a good price.
  2. Frosty... When I’m changing over it’s gonna be for one of these. Ticks all the right boxes. ...and plenty of room for the PS5 when I can pick one up
  3. Balanced Mains done right brought it home way more than power regeneration. Had a loaner PS Audio P20 power regeneration (not cheap...look it up) and a hardwired 10 KVA Airlink balanced mains unit feeding the sockets was a hella lot better. Regen was good, dont get me wrong, but what balanced mains does (think XLR cancelling out noise) had a much bigger footprint in the overall scheme of things. Done em both, just my experience for what its worth. Mains quality is something very fundamental. Put ferrite beads (pennies from Amazon) on all your mains cables for a "Proof of concept" Ignore the Foo, take care of your mains.
  4. Cost me a fortune to get longer versions of these cables! Not an option Jerry. Just fancy a change, sometimes you get up in the morning and think...naa.
  5. This is true... Was pretty trippy casting the iPad screen up onto the telly, when taking a photo of said telly...with that IPad! Thanks for all the helpful suggestions Chaps, had a look at IKEA Besta, some of my kits pretty deep so unfortunately would be sticking out the back of it. Think the Alphason is the one that’s ticking the boxes for me, kinda what I had in my head when I pictured what I wanted.
  6. looks great man. Your not a Bond Villain by any chance?
  7. Love that Alphason one! Thanks for all the Links.
  8. Recommendation please My system currently lives in a Stands Unique AV rack, fed up looking at so many black boxes... So, looking for suggestions folks for a white, wide, low slung hifi rack that'll take 6/7 pieces of full width kit. Something that'll hide it all away behind doors if possible. Less that...and this: and more this: Based in UK so something available here. thanks!
  9. They absolutely can sound different. The bits are bits (are bits) concept doesn’t cover everything that’s done in a transport that gets the 1s and 0s to your Dac. What your Dac receives is a analogue representation (thru a series of differing voltages) of what is on the disc. As with everything, it’s never that simple. Factors like quality of power supply, amount of induced jitter from the internal clock, robustness of digital output (zero added noise, RF or EMI or...?) Point is, it’s not just a case of bits are bits. I tried different players into the same Dac when evaluating the Audiolab and they sounded different. Even the spdif cable you hook the transport up with can have detrimental effects on what gets to your Dac, the better ones less so. Somewhere on the CD lives the recording and the mastering that was there on the day. All the bits of kit downstream from that from the laser mechanism to the digital cable you connect to your Dac with can reduce the quality to a greater or lesser degree depending on how good - and by that I don’t mean necessarily expensive as the Audiolab convinced me. Lots of elements and processes are needed to get the bits off the CD to your Dac, each one can degrade quality potentially. Guess the trick is using kit that reduces that degradation as much as possible, and that’s my takeaway of the Audiolab after living with it for a while. For reference, it more than holds its own into a 5K+ Dac, and I don’t feel as if I’m shortchanging it. G.
  10. Having recently got back into playing CDs I can offer an opinion ‘ere. Have an Oppo 203, heavily modded, which was going to be my “last disc spinner” SACD playback as well as Redbook, i2s output into my Dac...what more could you want? Turns out, I wasn’t enjoying CDs as much as vinyl or streaming though, so wasn’t playing CDs much. Have a good Dac, so thought about a dedicated transport. I considered a ‘vintage’ well reviewed player/transport from back in the day like yourself, but didn’t want the niggling thought that if something goes it could be an expensive doorstop. After reading glowing reviews took a punt on an Audiolab 6000CDT. After an uncomfortable couple of weeks run in the thing started to really shine. Bettered my modded Oppo by quite a bit, more natural, realistic and ‘in the room’ sounding but does that trick of keeping all the detail too. In fact it pulls detail out Redbook CDs better than I’ve heard, it’s quite forensic in what it does. If it’s in the recording you will hear it. Compared to my Oppo 203 as a transport over i2s, as a player from its analogue outs and my Marantz CD6000KI player, the Audiolab is superior. Its like a precision tool for the job, no Dac no overheads...all about getting the data off the CD as best as possible and outputting it to your Dac. It has a read ahead buffer (unusual for a cd transport) and Audiolab paid attention to the quality of the digital output, so Audiolabs took serious what it takes to gets the job done well. Fantastic bit of kit, silent in operation, built like a tank and at £379 you will have cash to spare for CDs. Slot loader too, and silent in operation, which is very cool.
  11. Short answer - Yes, they work and improve things. Run my whole system hardwired from this 10KVA Airlink unit, a big beastie. (Note the 2 twin-pole RCBO’s for primary and secondary windings...important to have these, safety first.) There’s two massive toroids in there, it weighs a ton! Its not in the listening room, so no issues with it being Fugly As...or with transformer hum. (It does a wee bit) Theres 3 voltage taps you can set it to work from, so before installing it I borrowed a mates Power Inspired regen unit, which displays incoming voltage, to get an idea of my house voltage and which tap to use for best effect. I think they work great, tremendous improvement in dynamics, reduced noise floor, musical “flow” and all that happy stuff. As stated before, make sure of twin pole RCBO protection on primary and secondary windings if you go hardwired, like I did. Like anything of this type, electrical safety is vital, get it checked by a spark. Run a double 13a socket from it, Wireworld mains blocks plugged into those to breakout to individual bits of kit. Oled TV, big poweramp, Dac, Preamp, Oppo Blu-ray, phonostage and turntable power supply all run off it. At 10KVA it’s probably not even breaking a sweat, but I over-specced the power rating to keep the impedance as low as possible. Its all about lowest noise floor and enough Headroom for those dynamic peaks. Not the cheapest solution, a bit “hardcore” I suppose and not suited to every domestic environment, but I got some good kit in and wanted to know I was getting the best from it. As a Fit n Forget solution really glad I put the effort in. Longer answer (with pics) here.
  12. AAANNNDDD...Guitar is SOLD. Snooze you lose!