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Everything posted by Alvolake

  1. Holistic Audio in Holland. I believe the head honcho worked for Ortofon. I have read many good reports of his very high end Ortofon retips using Franz Geiger tips. I think his name was Kyrian.
  2. As I said, I don´t have a "special" power cord, nor do I know which one of the 4 I use is the Sugden original. What I will do when I´m bored is swap all 4 around between my PSU for the Puresound phono stage , my Suggie, my Creek phones amp and my Norton PSU for the LP12. If I hear anything different, then I´ll maybe investigate
  3. Cheers Wobbler, yeah, I know. I have read and been convinced by that argument all my life. What prompted me was that I have read this comment on the A21se just twice, one from a guy in Indianapolis last month on the Steve Hoffman forum and the other in a UK mag about 10 years ago. It just rang a bell, after all it’s not something I’ve read very often, especially referring to a particular model of amp. I’ve had my VW 1303 super beetle since 1975 and, up to 3 years ago I had always used Bosch spark plugs as per recommended by VW distributors the world over. However, reading an Australian web page on Beetles I read a recommendation that NGK gave better results in Australia because they don’t use “super triple copper electrodes” or whatever, and, well I never, the Aussies got it right. I sucked it and saw, trouble is I ain’t got a super mains lead at hand. In fact, to tell the truth my mains lead might well be from a PC I no longer use.
  4. I´ve had my A21Se for ages and I have just read on the Steve Hoffman forum that that it responds like no other to a "good" power cable, whatever that might mean. This ties in with a similar comment I read yonks ago that had no follow up and I forgot all about it. Just as a matter of interest, has anyone ever tried a "good" `power cable with the Suggies ? Might "good" refer to the plugs at either end ?
  5. Sounds crazy and up to a couple of years ago I would have laughed but a mate decided he had to go to Seoul to see a bird ( they’re now married and live there ). Anyway he asked me I wanted anything bringing back so I said jokingly: Yeah, some Maglev feet called Will Sound spikes after reading about them and thinking they might be cheaper out there being of Korean origin. To cut a long story short he brought me some back as a pressy so I never discovered how much they cost but I digress. I use Mana under my Linn and after a frightening episode trying to fit them under my LP12 with just two hands I gave up and decided to shove them under my Sugden A21SE. I decided to use 3 of the 4 feet in a sort of small triangle under what I deemed to be the Suggie’s centre of gravity which is off centre due to the robust tranny it has and it looks an eye sore, all wobbly and on its perch but I thought bigger gap under the amp might benefit cooling air currents into the vents on the bottom and thought no more of them. After a couple of weeks I realised that thegrunge sediment threshold of my system was much lower and it needed less volume to satisfy. Is it the magnetic levitation or the cooler running ? No idea.
  6. I´ve got a Troika, close to needing a retip. He can have it for 150 quid so for 350 quid on a Goldring retip he would have a hell of a cartridge for half his budget. And the third hole !!!!!!
  7. Yes,the feed for the motor was designed in, as from the A21SE. as,all three (A21SE, and the latest A21aS2 and SE Signature versions ) are based on the same pre-circuit in cascode and use the motorised Alps Blue.
  8. I´ve had my A21Se since it came out 10 years or so ago although I haven´t heard Harbeths. I have never found it hot in the highs but maybe that´s down to my tweeters (Seas Millenniums) and the fact that I have no digital input (ducking). What I do find is that the motorised Alps Blue pot on my SE when used manually as is my case, is a bit " hot", insofar as a Mini Cooper was a bit hot i.e. you just had to blip the pedal and off it shot. Come to think of it, when I had my A21a and I happened to ask Patrick if a motorised pot could be fitted - this was before I knew how uselessly slow such mechanisms could be, he told me it was not possible with the single-ended circuit, Then lo and behold the SE came out with a motorised pot. I had assumed it was for some electronic reason (power for the motor ?) beyond my comprehension but now I wonder ..... Maybe the motorised pot is designed to respond quickly sonically to counteract the slowness of their mechanical response using the remote . Food for thought, Anyway, with hindsight an alternative slant would be to use basic but good copper wire (mine are Van Damme Black Tour - 4 core so only one run per speaker) and maybe spend some dough on improving the pot. Despite its seemingly low 30w output, I use mine with a stepped attenuator and also some Rothwells on the input terminals. Much better control. Who knows ?
  9. First of all, this is a true description of my experience - no B.S. but loooong. I´m 70 and have had a grumbling slipped disc for over 10 years. Anyway, suffice to say I´ve been to physios, docs etc. and only this year, out of desperation and on my local fishmonger, of all people´s, recommendation I visited a retired neurosurgeon and Uni neurology consultant here on Tenerife who is probably nigh on 90 odd years old. I got on really well with him, he was mates with a similar consultant in Newcastle so was grateful for the opportunity to gabble on in English. I really liked his opinion that doctors are a necessary evil, useful for "keeping people occupied" while their bodies get on with healing themselves. Anyway, he sent me for an MRI scan just to confirm the disc was not in its right place and then gave me the lowdown : 1. Start using a walking stick and slowly go downhill OR 2. Have the operation and fingers crossed OR 3. invest in a course of traction treatment on THE MACHINE ! Logically, I opted for the latter and he said I would need some 20 sessions. The Chattanooga Triton (google it) is the name of the machine and it consists of an average looking articulated top, surgery stretcher bed on which you lie down after being tightly embraced by a heavy leather harness which looks like something out of Game of Thrones,full of velcro straps and metal rings. From this harness there hangs a nylon, vaguely elasticated cord with a clip on the end. So you lie back and the clip is "clipped" on to another clip which emerges from a sort of computer screen and which is connected to a sort of winch. Switch on and the winch starts tightening the cord between your legs and you feel a gentle, not disagreeable, pulling on your hips for n seconds which then loosens for another few seconds. Then the whole process is repeated again and again for 30 minutes. The winch thingy doesn´t actually move you as your body weight is keyed into the computer prior to starting thereby calibrating it for said weight but via the harness it does pull on your hip region towards your ankles thereby creating "space" between the lumbar vertebrae so that "in theory" the errant disk might find its way back into its resting place. To cut things short, it wasn´t til the 17th or 18th session that I began to feel relief so he was right about the 20 sessions. It worked for me. If I had the werewithal and somewhere to keep it I would buy my own machine. As far as I´m cpncerned there should be one in every household/neighbourhood/ care home or whatever but for some strange reason there doesn´t seem to be many about. It would seem that "Traction" is considered old fashioned and probably not technological enough for Europe. I know of a few of these machines on mainland Spain and another in Austria but have no idea regarding the UK but if you know a good physio there well enough, tell him to investigate the Chattanooga Triton and he can lie back and buy himself the highest of High end systems ´cos there´s a potential customer in very house. I swear this is my truth. P.S. the old guy also told me that the only exercise he recommended for people with disc trouble are "squats", sticking your arse out as much as poss. to improve one´s buttock musculature. Oo er, missus.
  10. This might help people who want to understand the "how" better and not worry about the "why". My bodge was virtually this : DB Systems-DB Systems DBP-6 Phono Capacitor Loading Kit-Any|Acoustic Sounds Of course, depending on the cartridge in question some may need to remove excess capacitance whereas, in my case with the P77, I had to add capacitance. I suspect this may be the exception to the rule. Dunno.
  11. If you decide to go back and try an MM, make sure your cartridge is presented with the correctinput capacitance. Everyone knows that the standard IMPEDANCE of an MM input is 47K ohms but no one talks about capacitance for MMs and apparently it is of greater importance than that of MCs .It was only by chance that I found out that the factory recommended 420pF input capacitance with my A&R P77. Anyway, with a little bit of help from more savvy people than myself (not difficult - thanks again Craig, J7, Juan Antonio et al.) a Y - splitter lead was knocked up to enable me to bolster the capacitance already present from the sum of my arm lead, phono input and the cartridge itself to reach the total figure of around 420. Anyway, the treble opened up without nasty splashiness, and all is better - it would seem the wrong input capacitance reflects in unwanted resonances in the cantilever or some such gobbledygook. Try it, I did and now I’m happier than ever with a forty quid cartridge.
  12. Alvolake


    My Alps Blue must have been a dud so wishing to improvise a balance control for my Sugden A21SE, I removed the motorised Blue and fitted two chinese cheapo 50k Log stepped attenuators, one for each channel, from ebay and am pleasantly surprised with the improved clarity. Gone is the considerable impression of sludgy dirge at the bottom of a tank to the music. To fit the second of the attenuators, I removed the input control, leaving my amp as one input only by defect (vinyl only) and used the knob to control the right hand channel. As the controls have no functions printed on the casework it even looks good. That way I never had to deface the Sugden case and can revert to the factory lay out easy peasy when I want, which I won´t. I don´t have any problems with the steps at all.
  13. I once built some World Audio WD20Ts which use a Seas concentric and a Seas bass woofer in parallel. They were quite good, especially after fitting some Batpure supertweeters on the front baffle which made a hell of a diffference. According to Peter Comeau, the designer, being stuck in the middle of a bass cone, D/C tweeters often need a bit of help for power output reasons. My mate still uses them.
  14. I have always read that selling price in hifi is usually about 6 x cost of components at least, so you´re all right. Of course in the 21st century no-one adds up the actual cost and then adds a suitable profit margin any more. More like, how much do you reckon we can flog this to Joe Public for ? It´s much more important to know your public and manage it than economics or engineering skills. It´s a long time since I graduated but even then, 50 years ago,, the final course of my economics degree waffled around how useless graphs and cost analysis based on assumptions such as "economic" man and perfect markets etc. were in the search to maximise profits, results being distorted by much more menial considerations such as the size or new colour scheme of a boss´s office or car or his secretary´s boobs etc. when compared to those of his inferiors´ and their resulting effect on profits. Del and Rodney were right.
  15. Has anyone experienced or heard of problems regarding the fit of new Karousel inner platters with older outers ?
  16. Nah, it´s that female I´ve been seeing you with/without (delete where applicable) recently.
  17. There is absolutely no way the A21se might be considered underpowered with any "normal" speakers. All that might happen is that the whole system might be underpowered because you are using it in a church hall or gymnasium of many, many square metres and high roof. You may also find that the volume pot delivers its all in the first, say, quarter of its track and then levels off. To solve this I use some Rothwell attenuators so that a "comfortable" volume is delivered at around the "12 o´clock" position and not before, so in other words I am holding it back at the beginning so as to be able to fine control the volume, or in other words, if anything, it is OVERrpowered.
  18. My A21SE must be 12 years old (?) and I remember getting the same answer from Patrick when I asked the same question. I live in Tenerife and the ambient temp is 20 odd degrees all year round and of course up to double that on odd summer days. never had a problem. In fact when I swapped the output caps (Eurocaps at 63º) because they were looking decidedly swollenish for some Panasonics at 105º, he got a bit miffed and insisted there was no need saying he hoped I hadn´t changed the voicing too much. My lugs are not that good.
  19. By fast I mean that piano for example, such as Oscar Petersen´s fingers on Tracks or Jacques Loussier´s glissandoes on Plays Bach 5 are often too fast for my brain to cope. By using the attenuators with my A21se it somehow fools me into thinking I can better digest small differences between notes that otherwise might not register . It´s as if the amp portrays the music in an apparently more sophisticated or SLOW way. Like driving my beat up VW Beetle over some potholey road and then doing the same in a Merc. Same distance , same speed but no, not the same. In other words it´s probably an ear-brain interface thing. or maybe the volume pot is more linear around the 50% mark. I know which I prefer.
  20. The A21Se can seem brutally fast to people when coming from the A21a - I felt the same at first but now I honestly believe the motorised Alps Blue volume pot is slugged that way. I use mine with Rothwell 10dB attenuator plugs and sanity is restored , giving a normal listening volume at somewhere around 50% (12 o´clock) otherwise, without the attenuators, volume is too high at a quarter to. This is not down to my speakers (WD25TEX - 87dB)) which are not at all especially sensitive nor to my source which is vinyl only (64dB valve phono stage) but I´ve never heard it with a line level input.
  21. Put them on your speakers, outside front corners and call them Beaks. Probably do bugger all but boy, should pull the birds. I used to use Totem Arros and had 2 pairs and these are in a different league.
  22. I told them not to offer the colour orange !!!!!!!!!
  23. It could be something as simple as shortcomings from the volume control. They are not perfectly lineal even when new and if they are getting old they can show "bald patches" . It sounds a bit extreme but many, even well considered amps have volume potentiometers which cost just a couple of quid or even less. Even the famous Alps Blue velvet is relatively cheap and easy to change.
  24. Kelvin, he of YouTube Stereo Review X, likened the Sugden A48II to a Roller. Dunno, never driven one.
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