uzzy

Super Wammer Plus
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Everything posted by uzzy

  1. uzzy

    On a mission

    Funny you should say that - I always fancied one UNTIL an old customer from Guildford HiFi came in complaining he could not get his Gales to sound as good as they did in our dem room with other kit using the top of the range Mission (shaped) amp and pre. I said bring the pre and power round to mine (I was using Gales at the time with an Audionics B2 preamp and the good old Hafler DH200). He came round and we had an hour listening to my system - and he said I wish mine sounded like that. So we slotted the mission pre and power into my system and sat back and ... bloody awful by comparison. The sound became closed in and pretty awful .. so we slotted out the Mission Pre and slotted in the Audionics pre amp and .. a massive improvement but still not as good as with the DH200 .. so we slotted the Mission Pre on the Hafler and it was awful by comparison .. no depth, no width and no dynamics. so we concluded at the end of the day the Preamp was very poor and the power amp was average but nowt to write home about. I will say the Gales are a difficult load to drive so perhaps with a higher impedance speaker the Mission Amp may have given a better performance but there is no doubt the pre amp was a massive weak link in the pairing. That was our conclusion - and for the show my recommendation would be to stick a Meridian 101, 103D or 105 on the end of the Mission Speakers. They are from the same era or thereabouts and I think they would compliment each other more ..the other choices that spring to mind (we sold loads of them) from that period would be NAD, A&R Cambridge AR60
  2. I was lucky I guess working in the trade for five years helped .. However, I made one mistake - doing bedroom systems for each of my daughters - the first was put together around a Pioneer A400 amp - when it came to the second I could not find an A400 second hand so on the strength of reviews I bought the original Mission Cyrus amp .. god it was awful, no depth, no guts - nothing to commend it (other than it worked) fortunately an A400 appreared in a local second hand shop soon after which I bought and the Cyrus was promptly sold .. Moral of the story being - if you have not heard something do not buy it on others' advice unless you know the person recommending and trust their ears.
  3. uzzy

    Recommend me a DAC

    All DACs sound different - hard to say which one is "right" .. to be honest you need to give them a listen (annoy local dealer or members in here to go visit when you can). Your Arcam 5 is a decent player .. all I can say is lots will recommend what they have and I do not know if they will offer any comparison to justify the recommendation. If you play CDs a lot then the life left on your Alpha 5 may be limited (10 -12 years average life for a lazer mechanism) .. so the question for me (if i was in your position) would be do I get a new "better sounding CD player" or do I buy a DAC and feed it from my current player until it dies then I can get a transport for about £250 (player with digital out) to feed the DAC thereby minimising my cost over coming years? I bought a Cambridge upsampling DAC some years ago because I thought I would give one a try (I seem to remember it was about £200 and on offer for 150 in a Richer Sounds Sale). At the time I was using a Meridian 506 20 bit machine - highly reviewed and rated and cost £1200 .. I also had an older Meridian 206 which i picked up cheap second hand. My findings were that both Meridian players as good (if slightly different in presentation) than both the Meridians. The Meridians died and were irrepairable (discontinued laser mechanisms) so I replaced it with a Marantz CD6004 .. which sounds much better through the Dacmagic than through its own analogue outputs .. So for a reasonable DAC that does a good job for not a lot of money I think the Dacmagic holds up well. There are some Dacmagic 100s for sale on ebay at the moment for £125 .. and for a DAC under £200 being a user and happy I think that is quite a bargain Ohttps://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CAMBRIDGE-AUDIO-DacMagic-100-DAC-Wandler-Digital-Analog-Converter-schwarz-black/382471203335?epid=1906748552&hash=item590d0f6a07:g:wIAAAOSwTspdGiFJ
  4. Bloody hell as much as a that - - two inches of jumper on terminals leading to wire probably not much better than 5 amp cable in the loudspeaker (depending on make - ok so my Arts have Kondo cabling inside) ... Personally I would make my own using a meter of 522 strand OFC cable .. but i am a cheapskate
  5. Some speakers of this era had drivers with a bayonet fitting .. so god knows how you get into them unless there is a special tool (or if the screw holes for conventional fitting are under the cover and you can knock it round with a hammer and something in the screw hole - but god knows how you get it back if you do.
  6. DIdn't they like the resistance - or was it the inductance or capacitance .. As we all know that kind of action is waste of time as should they wish to try and take someone to court they would find it a tad difficult to prove their cables were better than another cable without measurement. Also don't they realise no publicity is bad publicity ... it beggars belief lol
  7. Funnily enough when the dog chewed through my Sonik LInk (now black rhodium) interconnects I did the same and they are still in situ. I think they may be a difference but as the Sonic Links are buggered I cannot do a comparison but it sounds fine with the Maplin stuff to my ears. As to speaker leads (and I guess for interconnects) there is an argument that the majority of an electric signal passes up the outside of the cable and so adding more strands or a smaller diameter gives a greater surface area for the signal to flow. In measurement terms though the only difference that can be measured in cables is Resistance and Capacitance .. I chose 512 strand (in a 4mm cable) for my speaker connections as to my ears it gave me the best balance from bottom to top of the frequency range, I found in my comparisons single or few wires results in less bass and an emphasis on mid and top end (others may have a different opinion and that is fine but I am just explaining my findings and why I made my decision on speaker cables). If you compare prices of just OFC speaker cables you have to wonder who is fooling who lol
  8. Good shout - but it also could be the transformer is getting old and noisy .. (as it has with my original Hafler DH200 but you cannot hear it when the music starts)
  9. Mind you if you put it on with Cushelle bog roll it should soften things up a tad
  10. Last I heard he was receiving treatment in Japan .. so it will have to be someone else you talk to at EAR .. fingers crossed TdP makes a full recovery bless him.
  11. well update your profile you naughty boy
  12. So definitely a cleaner sound then
  13. Ok your EAR 834 has the following spec (the original) Specifications: • Maximum output: 30V • Noise (un weighted): -80 dB (1HF) • Tubes: ECC83 x 3 • MM Input sensitivity: 2.2 mV for 1 V @ 1kHz (53dB) • MC Input sensitivity: 0.22 mV for 1 V @ 1kHz (73dB) Your cartridge is pushing out 0.4 mv which is twice as much, so logic would suggest that the 834 is delivering 2 volts to your preamp (same as a CD) .. if I have got that wrong I am hoping @rabski will step in and tell us the real answer. So most modern preamps would be happy with this on a line stage .. older ones not so much. As the EAR is such a good phono stage if i was in your shoes I would stick an attenuator in the circuit rather than take any other action .. now the question is do you put it between tonearm interconnect and 834 or after the 834 .. I am hoping Rabski will help us out with that one but a little voice inside my head (probably wrong) is saying use it in front to deliver half the output (0.2mv) to the 834 as that is virtually on spec for optimum. @rabski your expertise please to put this one to bed.
  14. All I can say is - my current pre kicks out over 1.5 volts and my Power amp wants 1volt .. i have been using attenuatprs for years between pre and power and it made everything sound so much better. It gives you back control where you have a usable volume range on the pre (not too quiet to too bloody loud in a fraction of a turn) - I got Golden Jacks from a guy but he is no longer advertising so it is down to Rothwell now I guess. I should add before that I had a preamp that was a perfect match to the power but only had auxilliary inputs expecting 150mv and when I got a CD again the pre was far too loud so I had some Golden Jacks made for that too (wired the other way around you plugged them into the CD player and then interlinked to the preamp, whereas the ones for power amp to preamp fit on the back of the amp) and never noticed any compression or alteration of the sound .. but it was different i guess as the CD player was pushing the old line inputs to the limit with 2 volts .
  15. and he probably thinks hand sanitisation is shooting someone's hands off
  16. They put that on for Donald Trump
  17. He should be so lucky I haven't been properly fluxed for years
  18. and put then on stands at least 2 meters apart?
  19. And does it make Cardas Cables sound better if you clean them with it - (provided you reinsert cables in the right direction) ?
  20. I know I may make some of you smile and some of your squirm with my gibberish but this really made me smile - Audiophile Grade Hand Sanitiser .. mind you it is from a cable company
  21. When my Audionics B2 preamp failed on the phono stage (irrepairable they put it in potting compound to stop people seeing their circuitry) I set out to find a replacement. I bought a Towsend Elite Preamp cheap to keep me going on vinyl .. I slotted it in and could not believe how compressed and closed in it was compared to the audionics (so it was just used as a phono preamp and line was left to the Audionics) .. it took me a over a year to find something its equal to my ears .. then it was breathing in deep to spend over £1000 in 1998 (that was a hell of a lot of money for me) to buy it (still have it, my Audio Research SP9). In that time it was painful - i was not enjoying my system as the niggles in my mind were getting in they way of everything and in the end I stopped playing vinyl and just stuck to CDs. After getting the SP9 I fell in love with it all again and was playing anything and everything. After that I thought about my dear old Hafler DH200 and realised as the Hitachi mosfets were no longer made I ought to make provision, there are alternative mosfets but I read about problems with trying to make it work properly with them (so I bought another DH200 and a DH220). I then got to thinking about my Decca .. so i bought another one and that works out to be one of he best moves yet .. When I need a retip - I slot the spare one in and send the other one off .. and so they get rotated in the system. I also have belt and braces here as I have a mint FFSCR4E that hardly ever gets used. What I have found is everything is replaceable, the only problems are; the time it takes to find a suitable replacement and then working out if you can actually afford it or not. I watched with interest as Nigel sought out his new preamp (hifi porn thread) and the time and effort it took for him to make his decision. I am too old perhaps to enjoy that process and journey though I am fully aware of the relief and joy when you finally get to the destination .. I love going to shows and bake offs and the like to keep in touch and if something really really grabs me then that is good, I can try it safe in the knowledge if it doesn't work in the system as well as the current components I am not left with something I do not like.
  22. I sold my Thorens TD160 and regretted it but it would only be in a box if I had kept it. I have my original Systemdek in the loft .. I couldn't part with it. My Decca is over 40 years old and still in use (in fact I will be a tad worried for a few weeks as it has just been sent to John Wright for a rebuild and I will worry until it returns to me. I have my original Hafler DH200 and I just cannot part with it (it has a noisy transformer now but is kept to ensure spare parts for the other two Haflers I have). I cannot part with my Audio Technica 1010 = it was bought by a pal with me at a hifi show in 81 on my recommendation when they were selling them off at the show for £90 I think .. he borrowed my Systemdek Biscuit tin for nearly ten years until he got his own Systemdek with a Rega RB300 and he gave the arm to me. He has since passed away so it will stay in its box or used here until I do the same. So in summation I think we all have an emotional attachment to the stuff we use and love until we see something we love more and it is time to change (or buy a bigger house to store it all) but the only thing I hold now with real emotional attachment has to be the 1010 there is no way I could sell it .. however, you never know I may give it to a friend in time (as I did with the Denon 850 the same chap also gave to me when he bought his Naim set up as what goes around comes around. .
  23. He may have had them made in China or sourced components - and the chinese copy everything
  24. If you log onto the vinyl engine there are a number to print off (and recommendations which to use) .. when you have decided and printed - if you have a laminating machine it is best to laminate it then stick a pin through the centre of the + for each cartridge position - you know you have the stylus centred in the + then. https://www.vinylengine.com/cartridge-alignment-protractors.shtml
  25. You slide the cartridge back and forth in the head shell to get the angles right .. it takes a little practice but the way to do it is to only finger tighten the bolts holding the cartridge and then ease it back or forward to get it to align perfectly, then finish tightening the bolts. (This is usually the reason for seeing the black scratched off the top of the arm in the mounting groove where the bolt head sits).