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fordy last won the day on February 24 2015

fordy had the most liked content!

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About fordy

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  • Location
    Wirral, UK
  • Real Name

Wigwam Info

  • Turn Table
    TW Acustic Raven AC3
  • Tone Arm & Cartridge
  • SUT / Phono Stage
    Aesthetix Rhea
  • Digital Source 1
  • DAC
    Luxman DA-06
  • Integrated Amp
    Marantz PM15 (1993)
  • My Speakers
  • Trade Status
    I am not in the Hi-Fi trade

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  1. I’ve got a bit of a ‘pop’ through my amp when I switch my Voyd on (the switch on the TT, not the PSU). Any ideas how to fix it? I was thinking about a cap across the switch but have no idea what cap and couldn’t really fathom the switch. Any ideas folks?
  2. any interest if I split this?
  3. I’d corrected those gains while you were quoting me...
  4. Funny that, I seem to remember assuming it needed the gain on my Hashimoto HM3’s at 1:40 (into a Tron 7 MM) and not liking it but a very brief accidental dalliance at 1:20 was better, if a tad bright. Alas, I’d just landed another SPU and quickly rewired the Hashimoto’s to 1:40 again and I didn’t return. The AT then sat in its box for years until recently but I’d forgotten I’d liked it at 1:20. Thanks.
  5. The Nima majors on a glorious mid-range like most unipivots and is superior to an Ittok or an Ekos in that regard. I think those big Linn arms have slightly better control of low frequencies. Nima has quite extending and smooth high frequencies which is better than a ‘tizzy’ Ittok but I think the Ekos is slightly more extended. Smooth and natural but not as extended at the frequency extremes versus boom/tizz dynamics? Overall it depends on what you want from your tonearm and what you listen to but the Nima is a total bargain compared to a typical tired old eBay special Ittok or Ekos with their sticky bearings which carry a good deal of risk. I ended up building a much higher spec deck with Kore subchassis which meant I had to settle on the arm mount. Playing the long game (With Ekos SE in mind some day) I went for the Linn mount Kore.