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lindsayt last won the day on January 1 2011

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About lindsayt

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  • Birthday 12/02/1966

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    Huddersfield, , Unit

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  • Turn Table
  • Digital Source 1
  • Power Amp/s
    Coincident, Korneff
  • My Speakers
    EV, Bozak

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  1. I bought a brand new Lightspeed LDR several years ago. It was a great sounding thing in my passive pre amp friendly system. Great sounding as in transparent and sounding like there was nothing there between the source and the power amp. Over time it drifted so that the volume out of the speakers for a given position on the volume control became quieter and quieter. Eventually even at max volume it was too quiet for most of my listening.
  2. It's one of those things. Some people have reported sonic improvements from moving from 100 mbps to 1000 mbps switches. Whether that was from the faster networking speed or some other thing, I don't know. In the context of a hi-fi system, there's not a huge difference in the cost of used ebayed fanless Cisco business 100 mbps switches and 1000 mbps. Like about £20 versus £60 (last time I did a quick investigation).
  3. For streraming music from your NAS to your hi-fi, it'd be worth trying a 1000 mbps Cisco or HP Procurve switch. That's assuming you have 1000 mbps capable NIC's (network interface cards) in your devices, which you probably will have. I've seen 1000 mbps fanless 8 port Cisco switches on ebay for about £55. But that was before covid. I've not checked recently. Covid will have affected the supply of business grade IT networking equipment coming on to the market. Cisco switches will work fine in a home network on the factory default settings. Chances are it'd work fine with a business config still on it. Resetting to factory default is quick and easy for anyone with a console cable. Putting a config on is quick and easy (via the CLI - text based interface) for anyone with some experience in this area. There are various features and settings that can be put on the Cisco business switches.
  4. The industrial strength Cisco and HP Procurve switches are good. They typically retailed at hundreds of pounds per switch (for 8 port switches) when new, whilst selling for fractions of that used, because of supply and demand. The one you bought goes up to 100 mega bits per second speed. More modern switches go up to 1000 mega bits per second (1 gigabit per second). For internet usage, for most users there's not much point in going above 100 mbps, because their internet connection will be slower than that. I use 100 mbps Cisco switches in my home network because I got them for next to nothing and don't need anything faster. For people streaming off an internal NAS there might be benefits to going for a 1000 mbps switch, or it might make naff-all difference. Cisco and HP Procurve switches will work fine for home users with the factory default settings. These switches are highly configurable and come with various features - mostly aimed for business users. Configuring them via the CLI (command line interface = think MS-DOS type non graphical user interface) is very quick and easy for techie IT networking types. There's certainly no harm in configuring your switch for your given requirements, and there may be some benefits.
  5. Who cares why? The pragmatic solution is to not buy stuff that's overpriced for the performance on offer. Buy stuff that offers great sound quality for the money spent. Edit: you could also extend this to speakers. Why are so many modern speakers so bad at bass transients? Measureably so (feed them single cycle low frequency signals and measure what the speaker produces). And sonically. Listen to the things compared to a well engineered classic speaker.
  6. lindsayt

    New speakers

    Yep. ebay and or DIY is the route to getting better sounding speakers for your money. If you buy right. German ebay can be a good fishing ground. The trouble with going to dealers is trying to find speakers that aren't slimline ported low efficiency designs. Although I suppose it all depends if you like listening to slimiline low efficiency ported speakers. I personally can't stand the things. Or at least the ones I've compared so far against high efficiency design, or electrostatics, or medium efficiency sealed speakers. The other trouble with dealers is that you won't be taking advantage of depreciation if you buy new. Nor the cost of your time compared to the cost of the manufacturer's and distribution chain's time. It's also a case of Darwinian survival of the fittest. Whatever you get has to beat your Castles. So let's see if you can find something that will be the King of your Castles...
  7. I also have a 1980's pro amp that I bought for £80, that'd be worth trying with your speakers. There's one way of finding out how an amplifier sounds with your speakers. And that's to put it to the test. Preferably in a way that you won't lose any money if the amp disappoints. At £400 you should be able to test the Majik with your speakers and sell on for no loss if you find something else you prefer for similar or less money. Maybe you should see what you can buy off ebay for less than £50 (or less than £20 if £50 is a bit of a big deal for you) and just buy that as a cheap as chips starter amp to use as a starting reference point to compare against anything else?
  8. Using compression drivers and horns is almost plug and play. On your first stab you may not have the speaker fully optimised. But when going DIY, especially if you buy the drivers and horns at below original retail price, it's easy enough to get a speaker that sounds better than what you'd get if you went to your local dealer and bought off them for a similar price or for double the price. It's also as easy as falling off a log, when using reasonable quality high efficiency drivers to get a speaker that's at least as good as ATC 75-150s in the midrange. There certainly is no need nor any particular siginificant benefit to be had by going down the kit route when creating your own DIY high efficiency speakers.
  9. On the similar money front, I paid a total of £300 for my NVA P50SA (bought used off ebay) and NVA A20 (bought new in a sale last year) combination. I'd be quite happy to get together with huzy - post-Lockdown / Social Distancing - to compare this combo against a Linn Majik or any other amplifier. At the £0 to £500 level, I don't see it as a big deal if anyone makes the odd wrong turning on the amplification front. It's easy to forgive your amplifier if it sounds decent, but not the best amplifier ever made if you've spent less than £500 on it.
  10. That's a reasonable enough price. Give it a go, and sell it on ebay for a modest profit if you find something else you prefer for similar money.
  11. If I could have the Linn Majik for £300 and a pair of upper end Focal speakers for £500 I'd give it a go. The thing with hi-fi like Linn and Focal is not so much that it's bad. It's more a case of you can get equally good or better sound elsewhere for less money.
  12. Maybe we're into semantics here, but I wouldn't want a warm sound. I wouldn't want a cold / uninvolving / lean sound either. I'd want a sound that that was hard to describe. Because the recording would determine the sound. This includes having a system that has bass in the right proportion and to the right quality. Which, with a digital source is largely determined by the speakers and the interaction with the room and the listening position. Trying to fix a problem, eg lack of bass extension from the speakers, with an inverse problem elsewhere in the system, eg a warm pre-amp, generally leads to a system that isn't as good as it could be. I also think it's possible to have a system with good clarity that sounds like musicians are playing in your room. Clarity and musicality are not mutually exclusive.
  13. Horns are so easy to incorporate into a DIY build that you don't need a kit. You just need the compression driver and a suitabled horn to screw it onto. Then mount the horn and driver on a board or plank or 2 or 3 of wood. Crossovers are easy enough to knock up. Buy from ebay, or if you're plush with cash and want brand new classic Altec drivers, Great Plains Audio.
  14. Something with a huge amount of magnetic force for the moving mass. If using horns, the shape and material that the horns are made from count towards the overall sound quality. There are certain drivers that I've been on the look out for, for over a year for my own DIY creation. I'm being very ambitious for the sound quality that I'm after for the money spent and will only buy when I see them at the right price. I am not going to name them on a public forum. I would rate the midrange in Steve57's red and black DIY'd speakers as better than the ATC's. The midrange is often covered by 2 drivers in 3 way or 4 way systems. With the lower midrange being covered by a woofer that also handles the upper bass or the entire bass.
  15. There are plenty of high efficiency drivers that I'd rate as better than the sticky-out ATC belly buttons. With them having at least the same amounts of detail and clarity, whilst having more dynamic freedom. One thing to bear in mind is that when you dynamically compress the music, the quieter, low level detail will be louder compared to the transient peaks, and there may be a psycho acoustic effect of the mind focusing more easily on low level details with a compressing speaker driver than a less compressing one.