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graham67 last won the day on July 12 2015

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  1. out of interest has anyone heard these? they seem a good size for many UK rooms and look cool too!
  2. For a BBC sound on a budget, I can highly recommend the original soft dome tweeter Rogers Ls6 or Ls7. These are more forgiving in the treble than the Studio 1 and don't need a lot of grunt. I fixed my parents up with a set of Ls 6 and a Sugden Optima 80 (40wpc) integrated, giving plenty of BBC esque tone for not much outlay.
  3. I swapped the P24 for a P30 which is a bit smoother and the Creek phono stage gives enough just gain for the lowish 2.5mV output. Finally a nerdy 80s themed system needs a nerdy 80s LP. And it all sounds rather good :-)
  4. Thanks Tarz. However my snail like work pace would leave me eating beans in no time.... 😁 . Also I lack some essential skills such as soldering and being able to understand the basics of circuit design.... 😵. I can take measurements and make adjustments but only with the service manual to guide me! So pulling things apart and putting them back together is fine as long as long as it only involves screwdrivers and patience! I think that's why this series of Techies appeal to me, the motor and PCB is very robust. Whereas ALL the earlier 13/14/1500 series I have worked on need the main board caps replacing which is farmed out to people who know what they are doing! Also, there is very little money in second hand mainstream Hifi. There was a guy on ebay selling these 2 are 3 years ago and he struggled to turnover his stock and I haven't seen his stuff for a while now.
  5. That would be the pioneer a91d 30 kilos of Japanese Tour de force with on board dacs in 1989 Before thr 90s depression hit top end Hifi hard. i owned one but it was simply too heavy to move around.😣. Similar but cheaper options included the 757 and 858 IIRC. Please would be well within budget and and built like tanks
  6. Finishing the deck off today took a bit of time and elbow grease. First was the platter which has some darker looking sections along the top outer edge of the rim. I first tried Brasso which did a good job of making the unblemished alloy look shiny. However, it didn't improve the tarnished darker sections. With a bit of trepidation, I tried the Autosol polish for anodised aluminium. Unlike regular metal-chrome Autosol this is much smoother and less grainy, closer to a cream then a paste. I tried the suggested application of rubbing on, leaving, wiping off with a wet rag, then buffing. This did great things for the unblemished sections, but again didn't do a lot for the tarnished sections. So I tried polishing the rim edge directly, with the Autosol anodised alloy cream. This helped to lighten the tarnished sections so they are much less obvious now. Judging by the consistent rainbow effect, the anodised finish also looks unharmed. I think fully removing the tarnished sections would also remove the anodised coating, so will stick with the finish as-is. The much shinier platter also now helps to distract the eye from the remaining blemishes. I cleaned up the lid using T cut Original Restorer. Although it doesn't remove the deeper scratches and marks, it removes swirl marks and haze, giving a bright clear finish. I then cleaned it up using AutoGlym FastGlass / plastic cleaner. I then hooked the Q21 upto the study system, directly into a modified Quad 34 phonostage. Setting up the timetable for use took only a few minutes. Using a digital scale I set VTF to the recommended 1.25 grams (which read high at 1.5g on the tonearm scale). Adjusting VTF is very slick, turning a knurled knob on the end of the stub slides the weight in or out. I set bias on the dial to 1.25g, then verified tracking using the HFN test lp. And that's all there was to do. The deck operates very smoothly and is as close to idiot proof as a semi automatic deck can be. Even with the humble TP 24 sound quality was good. Surface noise was low on a good LP but a little high on a worn LP but without comparing against a new cart its hard to attribute the cause. Gain on the Quad phono stage is also a little low with this cart so will try a Creek OBH 8 ii which works well with budget MMs. But enough nit-picking as it was immediately obvious that the presentation was full and dynamic with plenty of that signature Technics energy and timing. All-in-all very impressive for what was an inexpensive consumer deck. And the fact it is still performs so well four decades down the track is testament that Technics really knew what they were doing before CD upset the vinyl applecart. Another Techy done, but with summer looking a write -off i have another one in the pipeline 😉 Ps I mentioned above that the SL-Q21, is the same as the Q20 ( apart from the silver colour.) Reading the manual for the Q20, I no longer think this is true. The Q20 features a suspension system and the non-resonant base (both also found on the Q202). So it's possible the Q21 was a despecced version of the Q20 (perhaps developed for their better stack systems). However I can't find the manual for the Q21 to confirm.
  7. here are some pics of the finished article. Other than some pitting of the plastichrome power and speed switches, it doesn't look almost 40 years old!
  8. love the colour coded mat and cart Baz👍🏼
  9. Thanks guys, I think it appeals to my obsessive compulsive nature
  10. I will post some more pics of the finished table once I have polished the platter and lid
  11. This is the deck and underside as picked up, no obvious problems Here is the auto return mech cleaned and lubed ready to be refitted. The tricky power switch now clean up and greased. Underside cleaned and lubed and switches reinstalled Top plate cleaned up ready for switches to be refitted. Baseplate
  12. The current enforced isolation seemed like a perfect opportunity to start on the next Technics project. I collected this recently from the son in law of the lady who bought it new. It's a Technics Sl-Q21 (black version of the silver Q20) from 1982. It's equipped with a T4P arm so obviously intended for a mom and pop audience as there is no overhang adjustment and a standard 1.5g VTF so it’s dead easy to set up and there is real ongoing need to adjust. The arm is also of decent quality with smooth bearings and even a limited range of VTF and bias adjustment for tinkerers. It's got a quick and smooth auto return mech and a front mounted slide to cue up. It hasn't seen much use, it’s even fitted with a genuine Technics P24 stylus that looks in decent nick. These make a great starter deck for someone with no knowledge of the TT black arts. It would have been perfect deck for my folks as I never remember seeing them set up their old belt drive TT in 40 years . My view is that many non-audiophile users would have been much better served with a T4P deck instead of a conventional arm (which requires some knowledge to set up properly). Despite its plain appearance, the Q20/21 uses the rather excellent quartz locked direct drive motor, magnet and platter from their pricier consumer decks such as the SL-Q202. The direct drive gives virtually instant start up, rock solid speed and 1 second 33 / 45 changes (just like a 1200/1210!). And to my eyes, the motor unit looks uncannily similar in concept to the unit fitted to the current SL-1500C.… This one is in uncommonly good condition, with only the usual layer of grime, sticky controls, platter dis-colourations and scratched lid common to a TT that probably has not been used in the last 20 years. Opening it up, most likely for the first time since leaving the factory, everything looked remarkably dust free, neat and tidy with no heat spots or expanded caps on the PCB. There is evidence of cost cutting compared to Q202, which was sold concurrently. The top plate is a good quality plastic rather than cast alloy. It also dispenses with the suspension so unlike the Q202 where the motor is attached to the suspended baseplate, everything is mounted to the underside of the top-plate, not dissimilar to the earlier 13/14/1500 Mark 1 but without that models free floating power supply. The baseplate doesn't use Technics non resonant material, however, it is still reassuringly chunky and Is much better than the thin ABS used on the earlier 1500 Mk 1 series. Well-designed springy rubber feet are fitted which are still in excellent condition. I first removed the auto return assembly which looks all but identical to that on the 202. Using foaming cleanser, toothbrush and paper towel I removed old grease from the various cogs, slides and levers. I then reapplied Electrolube PTFE Grease to the same spots and PTFE Oil to any bearings, spindles etc. I also removed and re-greased the rods that connect the cueing slide to the arm lift. Unlike the earlier SL-1500 Mark 2 the arm lift is a very solid design that won't fail. Removing the return mechanism also revealed the arm board is not removable. I didn’t want to risk doing more harm than good so I just wiped clean all visible grease, then re-greased any linkages and levers and oiled any bearings I could access. By far the fiddliest task was dismantling and cleaning the front panel switches and cue slide which get gummed up and sticky. The speed control switch was trouble free, however, the power switch is the same infernal design used on the Q202. The switch activation relies on flimsy thin hinged plastic and the design is such that dismantling it is a heart in the mouth job. It’s the only real weak spot in the design. I cleaned up all the parts, squirted De-oxit in the switch and re-greased the spring mech and reassembled the switch. The cue slide was then dismantled, cleaned and re-greased taking care not to lose the spring and ball bearing! I also removed and cleaned the strobe lense and re-greased the sprung arm lift. Before final reassembly I flipped it over and cleaned up the top plate and arm base using foam cleanser, small paint brush and soft cloth. The arm was also cleaned up, taking care not to get any liquid in the bearings. I also lubed the bearing using suitable oil supplied by Johnny at Audio Origami. Reassembly took only a few minutes requiring nothing more than a one point Phillips Screwdriver. Technics clearly put a lot of thought into simplifying manufacture. A quick test revealed that all the controls now operated with a light and smooth action. It's now just awaiting the lid and platter to be polished then it should be good to go. I'll be trying this in my study first with the original TP24 cart, then with a new AT-85EP T4P cart (which seems very similar spec wise to a 95E). PICS to follow!
  13. here are some
  14. ok sab, something like that should do the job, plenty of good s/h decks in that price range. however the metalwork in the eBay example doesn't look in very good nick, looks like it has been stored in damp conditions. something like the lovely pl530x? that flash had on sale last year would be ideal.
  15. hi sab, if you don't want to spend much I can highly recommend a quartz direct-drive Technics from the early 80s. i would recommend the Sl-q202 and q-303, after this technics started despeccing their consumer machines quality wise. these machine are good for pacey material, with a half decent arm and rock solid speed. Unlike the earlier servo controlled technics such as the Sl-1300/1400/1500, these don't suffer the speed control problems caused by old caps. And they don't suffer the arm lift problems and display problems of the mark 2 versions. they have a cast alloy top-plate, some suspension and a doddle to use. They do benefit from being cleaned and relubed as the auto return mech and cue slide get sticky with old gummed up grease. see below for some pics of one i did up a while back.