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graham67 last won the day on July 12 2015

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  1. graham67

    The Vinyl upgrade

    Hi ceko, If your amp has a decent quality MM, which it appears to being an optional module rather than a tick box inclusion, a good MM cart should make a big improvement. I have owned and can also recommend the AT 150Sa (same as VM 750), and the cheaper Nag MP110. However you need to check the cart compatibility with your relatively budget Project deck, the AT 750 range is heavier and weight is carried forward of stylus so needs more VTF to compensate. If you prefer a warmer balance the mp110 should suit, if you want a more open explicit sound, AT might suit better.
  2. I can confirm these speakers are in excellent condition 👍
  3. I think I will look out for a 'regular' OM20/30/40 for the 1510 and save the more compliant OM20 for my occasional T4P forays. The below table in the leaflet shows that the OM /OMP range used to have a more compliant stylus than the current range. Both the OM20 and OM30 were fully T4P compliant, unlike the current Stylus 20 and 30
  4. This is the ortofon p mount cart i fitted to the J1 as a bit of an experiment. A huge step up on the previous p mounts i have tried. Its slightly more mature presentation really suits the upbeat J1. This is a nos OM20 which had higher compliance and 1.25g VTF to suit all T4P decks I also tried it in the 1510, again a very nice match and probably the best result of all the various carts I have tried. Unlike many heavier modern carts, there is no need to resort to extra counterweights, and its well controlled top end avoids any treble tizz in the stock arm. I think this (or at least a similar OM stylus) will be the keeper cart in the 1510. With its DJ roots, it also looks perfect on a Techie.
  5. Hi Denjo, I have only just seen your post and I am very sorry for not responding 😢 . The 200 euro phono option is the internal MM phono stage. If you look at the pre and post pics on the inside right of the rear panel near the phono/aux input you will see a bunch of extra components. This necessitated the rear PCB to be replaced. The MM phono stage sounds excellent so its a very good value mod. As mentioned the volume needs to be cranked up, but this is the way it was designed. The external module shown is a MC SUT which plugs directly into the MM phono stage sockets. Its a neat looking solution though a little fragile so needs to be handled with care. I think an external head amp such as the denon ha500 i have gives a better solution and of course can be used with other external phono stages. Thanks very much for the offer of a manual, I do actually have one but obviously didn't read it carefully enough 😄
  6. This thread shows some pics of the Integre DT. There is also a near identical looking single transformer version, but Steve is after the DT dual transformer version.
  7. Excellent choice, when u said easy to use, its the obvious choice. I enjoy my old 1500s so am sure the new 1500C will be a great machine.
  8. I swapped the PCB, motor, PSU, socket and lid open switch from the donor machine to my daughters J1. This image shows the "Ooh-err" moment when one wonders if either machine will ever be made to work again 🥴. Donor machine is on the right.
  9. Another wet weekend so time for some TT fettling in the form of a J1 intended as an Xmas gift for a complete vinyl newbie. The service was pretty much the same as I performed on the J1 that Richard (Lostwin) very kindly donated early last year for my daughter so I won't go into great detail. In summary, I cleaned and regreased/ reoiled the arm mech, cleaned and reoiled the bearing cleaned up the chassis and interior, polished the lid and front panel, cleaned switches and contacts and adjusted the arm set down points. One strange thing I noticed was that the centre channel under the arm was full of grease despite no contact in this area. The arm mech moves over this channel suspended from the rail with just 2 round glides that contact the tracks either side of the channel. These had obviously never been lubed so I applied two lines of grease here. I also fitted new arm and platter belts from Thakker and swapped in a AT85EP cart, one of the few T4P carts still made. It performs perfectly, including all automatic functions and the rather remarkable track search features. It is pretty cool to cue up a track by pushing a couple of buttons. The speed is very stable and doesn't need adjustment once set. As I was in the groove i turned my attention to the first J1 I worked on. As previously mentioned it had an occasional pitch instability which I couldn't solve. It possibly required a board recap but could be something else. Fortunately I was able to locate another J1 which had sustained some physical damage causing misaligned hinges/lid. This is critical on these linear trackers as the arm mech is in the lid. However the speed was constant and all the functions worked so I set to work using this as a donor for my daughters J1. It was a bit like performing open heart surgery with all the motor, PSU and PCB removed and laid out in front of me. The donor machine was a year younger (1985) and I noticed that Technics had improved the bearing fitting a two piece brass/steel spindle so I swapped this in too. Fortunately the swap worked as planned and the refreshed J1 now works well. Sonically these decks belie their humble stack hifi roots I was able to compare this to an SL-150 using the same Ortofon stylus as I have both 1/2" and P mount bodies to hand. The J1 is noticeably more airy and a bit more forward. I suspect it is deliberately so to match the bass enhanced, treble limited stack systems of the day. As it has RCA outputs I hooked it upto my main system using a decent oyaide tonearm cable. Its upbeat presentation worked very well with the big JBLs and I think it will work very well with the tabletop speaker it will be used with which has a rather warm full balance typical of such devices.
  10. I have owned the LS6 (predecessor of the LS6A) and its got that typical BBC style midrange allied to a slightly tubby bass. The treble of the two will be different as the A moved to a metal dome tweeter that is generally not quite so well regarded. But if your system has a smooth top end it should be fine. Its a bit on the slow side so not a speaker for rockers or nightclubbers, but its certainly worth a shot if you music taste veers towards the more sophisticated.
  11. If i had to give up my vintage 401, I would replace with a new Japanese built Technics. Proper old school engineering brought upto date. 👍
  12. I remember when the original announcement was made and some on this site came to same conclusion as the Chinese dealers subsequently did. I would have thought it was blindingly obvious that the mystique of niche brands like Tannoy is their history and location. On all objective levels, their products are old fashioned, oversized and overpriced. But it is their long history of similar, well regarded iconic products that keeps public interest high, but it doesn't take much for that to be lost and then the brand will be finished. How the new Tannoy mgt could not see the same points to serious naivety and also lack of brand awareness. I have had huge enjoyment from the classic Tannoys I have owned, but I would never buy a Chinese produced Tannoy.
  13. A good value option worth considering is getting the existing arm rewired and maybe fettled. The stock technics cable is very basic and it is.quite surprising how much difference a decent internal cable can make. I have been playing around with different arms on a couple of SL-150/1500 and to my ears an internal and external cable rewire of the stock arm offered the best bang for the buck