• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


awkwardbydesign last won the day on February 28 2016

awkwardbydesign had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

829 Excellent

About awkwardbydesign

  • Rank
    Perfect, apparently.

Wigwam Info

  • Trade Status
    I am not in the Hi-Fi trade

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Looking through my stash for an arm cable, I found this. It obviously came from an arm, judging by the ends, and it must be about 30 years old. About 1 metre long, twin cores, screened, and cream coloured. 5mm outer diameter. Does anyone know anything about it? Apparently it is Japanese, looking at the results of a quick search, but not much info available. If it is reasonable I will try it on my Lenco build.
  2. My pair of QUAD 2805s have to go! For domestic peace, as my wife just doesn't like the size of them. The height isn't a problem, it's the width, as she can't get to the shelves behind and I can't reposition them. They were serviced by One Thing Audio last October, just before I purchased them. Initially there was a buzz on one of them, which I thought was a dust-cover, but turned out to be a rare fault in a bass panel, which was replaced under warranty. So now there is a new spare dust-cover, including the frame, which wasn't needed. They are in great condition, just a small scuff low down on one grille cloth (shown in one of the pictures), and I covered the silver side frames with satin black vinyl wrap, which makes them appear smaller. Easy to remove if preferred. My room doesn't really suit them, as I'm not allowed to pull them far enough forward! They have the factory adjustable spiked feet and the extra stabilising weight under the back. I have raised them on 3 layers of ply and MDF, which can go with them if wanted. I have used them with a Parasound A21 250W SS power amp, a 12W EL84 amp and Icon Audio MB90 115W valve power amp. It has been quite happy with all of them. I have never rocked out with them, as I tend to listen late at night, so they are unstressed since their service. I live in Plymouth, and if you can get here you are welcome to listen to them, of course. They won't post,as I don't have the boxes, but I can deliver them for the cost of the fuel, as long as I can get home again the same day without exhausting myself! I am asking £1800 for them. EDIT; I forgot to say I am looking for a pair of Tannoy Monitor Gold 15" drivers. I don't need cabinets.
  3. I have just had to unsolder a set of Rean plugs (made in China by/for Neutrik) and found the negative lead took quite a lot of heat. I suspect they were soldered with lead-free solder, something I have learnt to avoid. Cutting and stripping to the correct length makes life much easier, and I tend to solder the live before the ground, but that's just personal preference. I insert the plug into a cheap socket and hold that in the helping hands croc clip. I tin the wire and and generously tin the plug. Rotate the ground wire away from the solder plate, while holding the wire in my left hand. Once set, I rotate the ground wire into contact with the solder plate and heat them together. XLRs with 3 contacts are trickier, but I use the same method. I use WBT leaded silver solder, as customers like it, but there is nothing wrong with using a good quality lead/tin solder.
  4. I use Starline RCAs these days. I find them easy to solder, as there is minimal metal in them. I also plug them into loose RCA sockets first, so if the plastic softens, they don't deform. I seem to be making dozens of leads at the moment, and never use lead free solder, as that takes too much heat. KLEs are similar (the barrels of each will fit the other), but Starlines are considerably cheaper. Pick your favourite plating.
  5. Change everything, but I won't tell you what I did, is not a useful insight.
  6. And which ones? All of them, including the power supply? And what do you consider to be higher quality? Would the ESR of the caps change? And I assume you know that different resistors have different characteristics (wirewound and and carbon comp resist power surges, some are inductive, etc). A blanket "change everything" is no help at all, and can be counter productive. EDIT: I have a Concordant pre amp, and in that the cheap polyprop caps in the signal path sound better than low tolerance "better" caps. And the PSU caps are critical too, but out of production now.
  7. I can't see it. And as I modify most of the equipment I buy (wherever it's made), and make quite a bit too, I was interested in this thread. But it's become rather a damp squib. I have a suspicion that almost everyone knows by now that commercial equipment, especially from China, would benefit from fitting better components. The interesting questions are what components and where.
  8. Fair enough. But Graham said "If you are interested in learning more, please contact Steve (STD305M) of this parish and AoS", so that was how it looked. Does that mean although you don't want to upgrade any more, you will give the details to anyone who contacts you? If so, why keep the details private, and if not, what did Graham mean? Confusing.
  9. So this is basically an advert?
  10. That was the eurozone, not the EU. I read that the northern EU countries wanted Greece to join, as having the birthplace of democracy as a member helped to legitimise the enterprise. And they knew that the Greek economy wasn't robust enough to truly qualify. As was subsequently demonstrated.
  11. After 50 years, i think it is more a question of salary as a percentage of spend.
  12. I have a similar problem at a slightly lower frequency. If I move forwards it disappears.
  13. There were active crossovers before digital! I have one I built in the early '80s. Up to 4 way, 24dB/octave (could be 18dB) with BSC. Severely upgraded over the years.
  14. CV181s are different again, particularly the 900mA heater current, where 6SN7s are 600mA. Assuming valves marked CV181 are really that; the Shuguang ones in my amp are actually 6SN7s. I measured the heater current.