gwernaffield

Super Wammer Plus
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Everything posted by gwernaffield

  1. just had this from paul who works for tom Hi Peter For some odd reason it won't allow me to join the forum and send a reply. If you can please tell the guy on the forum, if he just wants us to repair the unit we can do that for him, just email us and tell us that, getting another engineer to repair it will be difficult, because we scrub the identification off the I.C's we use, so whoever they get to look at it they would need to get in touch with us to fix it. We don't supply any circuit diagrams or parts list of bits used.(job security and propriety information). Tom may have mentioned upgrading the unit because of its age, some of the bits in the older products are now obsolete, which forced us to change the product range. Kind Regards Paul @ Audio Design Email sales@audiodesign.co.uk 01443 833570
  2. hi Pete We have a number of new reviews planned for several products in the coming months , All the best. Tom. he is still in business, but like all small engineering firms and hifi makers they have to cope with the Covid rules ,the may be a bit late in getting back i like toms equipment having had the Vibe and the pulse 2 and the Groove , but sadly now i just have to look ,
  3. the main problem with the gyro and orbe ,it is impossible to decouple the arm board completely the bolts all bring frequencies into the arm and board of the chassis, due to the design off the suspension holding the feet on , i have tried just about every thing , even a £200 piece off 20mm carbon fiber which was great at storing static , and then letting you have a belt of static every time, i now use Nylon screws , from my favorite covid shop china, some 50 mm long M5 which has helped a great deal , how ever the cartridge now has a ptfe damper fitted to the top of the cartridge and the arm it self half a mm thick no thicker or it will put too much mass in the arm head shell all in all i am pleased with the out come, i still can get a bit of microphoney if i tap the chassis, the arm needs to be separate t the chassis ,in a arm pod , as yet i have only drawn that up, and i doubt it will work , as i have now run out of diy ideas, at this moment in time,
  4. Hi Lost win , you need to talk with TP , the one i am using is a thick 40mm piece off acrylic , for the SME with a small rubber damper , it seems to work very well , but we all have different music tastes , and i don't do reviews ,but then i would not have kept this one it i did not like it , TP can make an arm-board for you , out of anything , you want , they have the machines, how ever they seem to be snowed under with work and they are not cheap , i am not part of TP and never have been , it was away to get an engineering company to keep the pylons alive, , as i wanted an acrylic platter and several other parts made they kept the design by agreement,
  5. they should be equal , it is a Michell error ,
  6. all the very best and with respect peter
  7. the concept is simple as the pin is 2mm out you need one base 4 mm smaller the others stay the same, as long as we dont end up with a straight base and not a T shape which i can get a round, by a different method, which is my secret , you will need a base some 30 x 24 mm , with any other difference taken up by the bush , please contact charlie either to ask him to make the base or send them back for a refund, true point have your money , although it was a while ago they will be happy to refund it , even make a free base, for you , kind regards peter
  8. pineapple thief just arrive on vinyl for later on
  9. i used the caravan one it is 25mm wide or 20 , the chassis is filled with all kinds, of stuff it gave it the extra weight , pete
  10. used caravan sealer or headlamp sealer off ebay the caravan one is expensive and white ,the other is l rubber mastic on a roll very good stuff from china
  11. the so let me get this correct , you take the bush out if the base does not fit , on the shorter i.e 300x300x299 taking the bush out will allow for the distance that is wrong , as long as it fits the holes it will work , the bush hole it is opened to allow mistake in measurement by the owner , not every one is so precise, you are talking thousand of a mm and yes the only way some times is to make the base smaller it cannot move around because the other 2 hold it in position if Michell had made the parts to a very high tolerance the bases would be the same, how ever when you are dealing with posts that are out of triangular shape, and they can be leaning , to one side or another , you have to try and make stuff work, i suggest that if you are not happy send them back and charlie who arrange a refund when they arrive back , we only change the inner and the bottom size of the base if it is far out , the others still holding the position , the base you say that may be lose is held in place by the weight of the chassis, and held in position by the other 2, , as it still cannot move as much as the springs, all the problems stem from Michell, if they had a tolerance of .1 of a mm you would be very lucky , but as the adjuster can range by over half a mm in size and taper ether end, allowances have to be made, the only true way is to make stainless steel adjuster , to 10,00mm , and make sure the inner post that fits inside the adjuster hole is ground to the center of the adjuster , but the cost would double .and you would still have to remake the acrylic to a high tolerance forcing the price up , so charlie just opens the bush up to suite the size of the adjuster shaft , as we cannot see what the sizes off the adjusters are , the older versions were never opened up in the bush which caused them to stick , we learned with the help of wam and aos members what the problem was, the adjuster was over size by half a mm, but to make it more complected on the older gyros that have the older style solid adjuster on the mk1 or 2, the thread and the shaft diameter are imperial , so now you have to go from metric to imperial and back to metric again , and hope to god that michell ,who put the holes in the acrylic are correct due to the higher cost of the split bush with it being imperial , i have talked to Jonathan nye engineer at Michell over the sizes of the holes and why they were all different , the explanation was they were having problems with the casting ,some times the machine milled the inner web thickness on the chassis too thin or it milled through them scrapping the chassis, so they just reduced the hole size , to get around the chassis not being made scrap , also not changing position of the chassis holes, just the diameter of the hole, , Charlie could just make a washer and put holes in with out the 28,5 , the design is a way of taking any movement out of the pylon base, i thought we had seen the last of the acrylic being not a equilateral triangle but allowing for the acrylic holes to be out by up to 1.25mm out by taking the bush out , , except when the acrylic is 2mm out , a special size base will be made, but as you may or may not appreciate the pylons have been sold around the world , again if there is a problem it is sorted, out , but we don't no 100% if the chassis is correct we rely on the owner to help , if a complete set has to be made they will be sent for free , the shorter distance is where the small base will go ,, but with out standing next to you we rely on help from the owner , ask any one, i have never charged for anything ,or never refunded when asked , but Truepoint now keep all the money pay the tax etc, i would sooner pay the money back pocket than rip a fellow audiophile off and,out of my own pocket and have done , any problems and you don't like them just send them back a refund less the post will be sent when they arrive back , if you live in Sweden ,the GP alternative may work better for you , or the SA string and wood version , now the GP version will need to to have a sharp drill ,and then a scraper to mix the plastic padding , after that fit the sand well i think that is correct , add the suspension , and drill more holes in the chassis , it looks fantastic , seeing the string stopping the chassis moving , add the plastic ring (oops arm board ,) and pay a lot more , again as i have experience of the SA ones just add to the original posts and play swing low sweet chariot , whilst seeing the deck moving , all the attempts at changing the suspension including Pete's pylons cannot work properly 100% until Michell change their engineering tolerances, so the need to open bushes , different size bases, etc is not needed, the clearance is grater in the one post because the smaller side is out, of being a equal lateral triangle, it makes no difference the other 2 will still work,it wont rattle it is held by the other 2 i have one guy that took all three bushes out , and he still says it is fine , but i designed them to work with the bush in be it one two or 3 bushes, the base is a T shape , if one is slightly smaller i.e 33.7 x 28.7 , and 33.5 and 28.7 or even 30x 28.5 , the other will more or less take any slack up , even if the base is made 4mm and 4 mm smaller , the weight of the deck will hold them , but as all ways it is a two way street i am here to help if they cannot be sorted send them back , i think i have had one set back over the past 2 years , the gentleman said the did not make the speakers disappear , not my fault but i respected his decision and his money was refunded , the gentleman that had the small bases , used just one of the 3 free ones sent , and is 100% happy with the out come , It is Michell's Turntable and their design , they can do what ever they want as it is their design ,and i respect that entirely , but i don't have a crystal ball for the sizes in the chassis you have , and will always endeavor to help but if that is not possible just send them back and the money will be returned, when the parts arrive back in the uk , all the best pete
  12. Hi Jonas the hole sizes are all different , in all the chassis , moving the screw holes does not mean you have to change the base size or position, the problem still is that Michell made the holes bespoke to the chassis you have , but never moved the holes in the acrylic, the bush is now opened up to allow for half a mm or more , because again , Michell chromed the adjuster , it can be any size for 9.9mm to 10.4 mm hence the need for the bush , i did not want the chassis wobbling all over the place , so they were opened up just a bit to all for a .4mm difference or the latest ones may be slightly bigger the chrome can be any size and taper when they remove the parts i have had one that was 10.7 ,to 10.2, so now they have done that it should work well, the 1mm i allowed was to take one bush out, if the triangle was out by 1mm removing the bush out means you have 2.5 mm clearance , i.e 1.25mm ether side, but at 2 mm you need the bases turned down by 4 mm , so a 33.7 ends up 30mm the center bush hole is made bigger by 1mm and the bush in the center is opened up as well, in doing that the clearance is greater in the one post , but the spider should be central to the holes or the springs would bend, the only logical reason was what i was told by True point is that Michell are trying to copy or copied pink triangle, to stop the springs from resonating , how ever this must bend the springs out of shape and spec , and effect the Michell bounce , you could end up with 3 different size holes in the chassis the sizes given are reduced to help with any errors , were the chassis hole is not quite round , the 28,5 mm- 28 mm -27.9 - holes are just roughly machined by Michell, and may have lumps or tapered down to 27mm, on one , making the pylons is not just a one way street , i am always on hand , you could end up with extra bases , that is all, the whole system is a compromise because of the engineering of Michell, who may not make them in the first place , all they do now is assemble the parts, at the new factory unit , True point make them and charge for them issue a receipt , i just have the pleasure of getting parts made that may never see the light of day , i have learned not put all the parts/designs on the forums in fear that i will be told i am copying some one else's design , but the pylons were a wake up in that respect , i had help from the community of wam and AOS , i hardly ever comment on my designs, so this post breaks that rule, letting all of you, know, how, what, why , the pylons ended up the way they are , but they are protected by law in this country , the IP has been given and i have the certificate, they originally started with 3 small o rings and went to 6 o rings that were doubled up to 12 , but they were butt ugly , after a few good tries, we ended up with the way they are today , with sets that have never been show, and may never see the light of day ,but are on a longer test period, to prove the design , as we went through about 9000 orings, and then changing the spec with the aid of a rolls Royce engineer.,,so you can see no one is ignored , or taken for granted, the pylons are made by truepoint ,but as i am a hifi nut i support them ,charlie agreed to this,as they never have the time due to being busy , he keeps the money and has to put up with me when things go wrong, or i want something made i pay for the material and he machines it , i may or may not get charged it depends on the project , pete pete if the bases need to be replace including scratches i will arrange it with charlie, the worst one was an orbe in London it was 2.5 mm out , i think the base was the smallest we had ever done , even the center hole was opened to 14mm it all went together , and is working perfectly ,
  13. you will not get a reply on monday it is bank holiday and i have sent an email to charlie , and copied your post , kind regards peter
  14. the problem stems from the acrylic being out with the center of the holes, as all of them are different , in a previous post i explained that if the chassis hole was a different size it was because michell has moved the position , to save the milling cutter cutting through the side of the chassis , hence some have nearly 35 mm base holes, and 28.7 mm top holes, it has been a while since there was a problem , the bases on the gyro that was just done by truepoint ,, i was asked to come up with the solution , two of the bases stayed the same size as ordered and the other was made 2 mm smaller , but also the bush in the center was opened up by 1mm , now the gentleman was using a tape measure to take a guess, that it was 2mm out , Truepoint made 3 small bases and sent the lot to him, who did not charge for them , even though it is Michells problem, in the end he used just the one base, and has 3 spare , he sent the postage and charlie paid for the bases, the holes being out would of bent the springs, the posts have to be central , but MIchell are allowed to change their design as they see fit , i allow 1mm on the bushes , you simply remove the one in the shortest post , as they are 12.5 mm diameter , so it will give a clearance of 1,25mm , with out the bush , after that it starts to get very complicated, i think the smallest base i have done is about 30 mm in diameter , x26 mm , the bases are all cleaned with a needled file scratches cannot be avoided, even the nut has to be filed out you would cut your fingers sorry about that , Charlie and his son do a very good job , they were the only engineering company that will make them one set at a time, the nuts are made 100 at a time then when ordered , they drill the holes, and machine the bases to size,form a blank , if you don't get an answer off charlie just pm me, i will drive the 30miles to see what is wrong , he is snowed under , rewiring tone arms, and building what he calls his super turntable. supplying parts for all makes of turntables, that is how i found them it was only when i talked to him over the triangle on the Michell he said Pink triangle did it on purpose , so now all sets of pylons will be sent with 2 the correct size and one smaller if needed , scratches cannot be avoided in the bases, acetal /delrin is a hard material to get the sharp edges off , if any one knows a better way please email me as for your question , they cannot be any were else but central to the hole in the chassis ,or the chassis hole would not locate on the stepped part , which is normally 28.5 mm or 28,, the bases are made to the sizes given , no used ones are ever sent because their are none they are machined to order from a pre cut blank , only the nuts are made in a batch of 100, , , replacement ones are sent for the post only , or if you are in birkenhead drop the chassis and spider off and they will be made to suite, and fitted, but that will take a couple of days whilst the parts are made, to size, scratches cannot be avoided, or they would be sent out with all the swarf stuck to them as they are not wood, if the bases are not located in the chassis , it means the chassis can move , like the solution of the SA ones that just sit on a wooden washer with a large hole, the set i was given the washer allowed the chassis to sit just on top , the deck was allowed to swing freely , and if you went near it when planing an lp and the floor was not solid you would scratch the lp , All solutions to do the suspension have draw backs , GP add plastic padding and sand , perspex and other bolts, SA just have wood washer and wooden nut with one piece of waxcotton threaded through the nut and glued into one of the holes, if the cotton snaps the lot falls to pieces, although he may of changed this Pete's pylons are ip registered and engineered to the sizes given aim to stop the deck from twisting and vibrating the o rings , you can use them if you have a wooden floor , but the problem with the center of the chassis hole to the acryic seems to be done on purpose by Michell in an attempt to stop the springs resonating which after 100sets has shown its head again , , how ever this must bend the springs, if one o ring perishes simply replace it , no harm done, i have even sent orings for the cost of post , and not the cost of the o rings, the size given to you was in engineering tolerances, if you have a problem please pm me, and i will get it sorted , but they will have scratches, regardless, pete
  15. GP used plastic padding to put more weight in the chassis and a well of sand , he use 3- thick o rings ,the problem with that is the hole is quite big , the deck see saws on the o rings, so he drilled the chassis to take the string this was meant to stop the seesaw effect , and the twist , the extra weight is needed to stretch the extra thick o rings, he also uses sand to add weight , this is not necessary, in my opinion , he helped in one way he would not sell the suspension separately, recommended his plastic ring ( arm board ) which is what it is a plastic ring with 3 bolts and a lager rubber gasket , or by now special bolts and o rings, i did buy one in the past , but felt sort of short changed , when i received an acrylic ring , and associated bits, ,, so it is up to the consumer which they buy , Pete's Pylons were born out of desperation to find a solution to a problem that in some eyes and ears did not exist , but my ears and several helpers off here and aos, all chipped in the only problem that keeps cropping on on 1 out of 6 decks is the triangulated screw holes that Michell has drilled, i now believe this is done on purpose , back when pink triangle was going strong , the springs where not put in a equal triangle on side was drilled slightly off ,, they thought it would help with stopping the spring resonance , i can see that as the thick sits on the springs, but on the gyro it hangs from the springs, if the springs are not central it means that you would just bend the spring and not get the bounce correct , to get around this i have always allowed 1mm for the post holes to be out , i was contacted by a gentleman who had bought the pylons from TP , he could not get them to work , we traced the fault to the acrylic threaded holes being 302 302 and 300, his were out by 2mm, he has never been able to get the bounce , to get around this TP made some smaller bases by 2,5 mm so instead of the 33.7 , he ended up with 31.1 x 26 mm that has done the trick the deck is now sitting properly , and he is a happy bunny , so before you order please check the distance from one screw hole to another in the acrylic , is equal or let charlie know and the bases will be made to suite,
  16. The Devil makes three on red vinyl
  17. hi yep the o rings work well, adding the extra damping works well, i used caravan window sealer , or bitumen sealer for head lamps from china it is half the price than michell stuff , it also means you can adjust the amount , the GP solution using body filler means you would have to fight to get it out , all the mods i have done can be removed with out any danger of damaging the deck , no holes left in the chassis , pete
  18. i have an sme 309 ,it seem s good match with the gyro , the problem is trying to get the sweet spot on the old protractor , with the manual , saying 213 .35 to the ps , and then sme saying it should be 215.35 , if you use the protractor it seems to end up at the 213, figure , so i used a Vi protractor , it worked very well with less crackle , and cleaner highs and lows, pete
  19. you will have to make sure the arm and board dont weigh more then 1.1 kg , or you wil over balance the chassis , pete
  20. No need to the set up is entirely , Michel orbe parts , with longer screws , the top spider is a composite or 2 spiders and longer pointed grub screws, the posts them selves are Michell std orbe, set up except for the o rings pylons, with no need to drill holes and destroy the chassis , every thing can be put back to std the only problem is the position of the acrylic screw holes which hold the pylons and should be central to the chassis, or you will have to remove the bush out of the center of the pylon , this only allows for the pylon position to be out by 1mm , so if you measure the triangle it should be equal , i have one that is way out with 302 302 300, a special set of bases have to be made to get the pylons to work , all because Michel never centralized the pylon posts in the first place which would mean the spring suspension would have top Bend to work but out of spec , you wound never get the michell bounce correct as one spring would be pulling against the other 2 , which i then have to get truepoint tp remake the bases so the pylons work , pete
  21. i think when at turntable is set up properly , you cannot beat it , getting the cartridge set up , is key , when that has been achieved no mean feat , you will get the best sound possible, the key to it seems to be the azimuth and the centrally placing the diamond and the quality of the pressing ,
  22. Hi Hi Nitin , you have to put the grease into the cone behind the ball, first , then place some on the top of the shaft but missing the hole, take the zx1 that already has oil in and put that in the well, also put some grease on the shaft as well, in a days time you will have to fill the well again , the oil will mix with the grease, in the end you end up with a whitish oil ,but it is super slippery , hope you enjoy the pylons , any problems please just PM me, also put some grease in the michell pylon adjuster it works a treat ,
  23. zx1 and grease if you want to try that the link is there for zx1 it already has oil included in the mix, pete
  24. The Xz1 you can buy off eBay , https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ZX1-Extralube-C76-MicroLube-Pin-Oiler-35ml-Ultimate-Friction-Eliminator-Tool-Box/143592140508?hash=item216ec22edc:g:fzYAAOSwlD5eqGpl this already has oil as well, i also added it to this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SYNTHETIC-SILICONE-GREASE-WITH-TEFLON-50g-TIN-2HT-PLASTIC-SAFE-LOW-FRICTION/391399159157?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 after reading about project grease oil,, i made my own , place the grease behind the ball in the cone of the bearing , placed some on the top of the shaft where the ball sits , and some on the shaft it self , the oil mixed with this, to make a white oil that has Ptfe , and zx1 , the deck went 1rpm faster , but i adjusted it out with the psu , pete