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About Andrei

  • Rank
    Veteran Wammer
  • Birthday July 15

Personal Info

  • Location
  • Real Name

Wigwam Info

  • Turn Table
    Modded Technics 1210
  • Tone Arm & Cartridge
    Jelco, 2M Bronze
  • SUT / Phono Stage
    Allnic H1500
  • Digital Source 1
    Custom PC
  • Digital Source 2
    Oppo 205
  • DAC
    Matrix Audio X-Sabre
  • Pre-Amp
    Emm Labs Pre2
  • Power Amp/s
    Pass Labs X150.8
  • My Speakers
    Magico A3 / Rel G2
  • Headphones
    Senn HD650
  • Trade Status
    I am not in the Hi-Fi trade

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. Great thread. I am still on the lookout for a new cart. (I have an Ortofon 2M Bronze tiding me over).
  2. That gave me a laugh! Not a great fan of Oistrakh myself. I favour Mutter but Kavakos and Kremer good. A great newish recording is Sebastian Bohren.
  3. I've read about them online and they are surely a desideratum. May I ask why Decware in particular? There is a dude in Australia (can't remember the name off the top of my head) - Melbourne I think, who also does artisanal valve amplifiers. A few others too I am sure. I was very tempted some years ago but the opportunity for a Pass unit cropped up and I had to make a decision - the rest they say, is mystery ... or is it history?
  4. That is quite a system Steve. I have heard the full range TADs and they are quite something. It is gratifying to see they are matched with those RELs. Question: What are the Blueline Bass cables?
  5. Resurrection. I finally got a subwoofer. Thank you guys again so much. It really did assist in my thinking. (I have only been into hi-fi for a little over ten years). I got a REL G2. If you will allow me to pat myself on the back I am congratulating myself on my patience. Patience (and his brother Mr Second Hand) is poor man's solution to what is otherwise unaffordable. I got a G2 on an auction site for $2.5K - 1.25 squid (not the MkII model). In terms of specs it ticked all the boxes. First, it had 'high-level' inputs. This means the sub gets the signal from the power amp rather than the pre-amp. So a little more consistency - but in my case necessary because my pre has no outputs, apart from going to the power amp. (This could be very important if you had, say, a SS pre and valve power amp.) Second, it is a sealed design - matching my speakers. Third, it has a carbon fiber cone driver - again matching my speakers. Fourth, the internal amp is a SS mosfet AB design - matching my amp. Fifth, it appeared - and luckily turned out to be - in new condition. In terms of setup I went with REL's YouTube videos, and plonked it a corner. The idea is partly to get some boost from the corner, but mainly to fire it along the longest room measurement. (I got a fax from Pythagoras confirming this). I put on chamber music with a double bass and did some movements over a few inches and some dial twiddling with remote (the fun part). Guys, within 20 minutes I was done! The integration is on the button. I say that because there is no sense of any more speakers. That is to say on certain tracks there is more bass but that is it. Apparently no subwoofer. Downsides? Only a couple. In terms of size is a monstrosity. I had to move my rack a few inches to the left - oh the first world problems we have to endure! Second It is a mild eyesore, but I am getting used to it. Thanks again for every single input. So much appreciated and this is what forums are about, right?
  6. So, you appear proficient in Dark Arts.
  7. My favourite, at least in real estate: "A handyman's dream"!
  8. You wouldn't be able to lend me Rover next time you are on holiday would you?
  9. One of the nice things of forums is the vicarious pleasure of a good looking / sounding system. On a related note I see you have a slightly unsymmetrical space behind the speakers. Does that play any part?
  10. Andrei


    5, 10 and first movement of the 11th. I have only heard single movements at most of the others.
  11. Here's an option that is borrowed from my Technics modding. (I am assuming an undamped metal platter). Not too expensive either. Take the platter off. Clean it, especially the underside. Be thorough. Soap and water is probably enough Acetone if you want to go all out. Put the platter on a stable level surface. You cannot skimp in this step. Also good ventilation is necessary. Get an epoxy like g-flex. Mix the epoxy very carefully so as to minimise bubbles. Pour and pray. If you stuff it up then bye-bye platter. Still, normal care should see you through. Top tip: no smoking or drinking. This all presupposes that the additional mass is not too much for the motor. The benefit is a double whammy. You will get a bit more inertia from the additional mass. Metal platters are like gongs. Depending on the amount and type of epoxy this resonance about 90% gone.
  12. I've got a 2nd hand Ortofon Bronze MM. It has come from a reliable source and was easy to set up - being on a P-Mount. It will do for now. I have been checking out all the suggestions - thanks chaps. Currently looking AT MCs. Also I can get a new Hana SL for 500 squid. Another option is to send my Ikeda to Soundsmith for repair. As best as I can see (with my camera's macro lens) it is just the stylus that has come off.
  13. Really good call dude. Charisma Audio offer this. But the price is prohibitive.
  14. Andrei

    Formula 1 2021

    Yes Stormy, "any second now". >) For the avoidance of doubt (lawyer speak here) this is an open joke not towards anyone on this august forum.
  15. Thanks. I have bought a 2nd hand Ortofon 2M Bronze. As sktn77a said 'prepare to be disappointed'. He is on the money - though it did not require 'preparation'. My shortlist is now Low end zyx Hana EL or SL AT OC or 33. Nagoaka 300. I will just shuffle round till a good option comes round. I have invested much money and especially time to get a high end analogue rig ... so this is why I truly appreciate every response here.
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