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About Juancho

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  • Birthday 01/04/1956

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Wigwam Info

  • Digital Source 1
  • Digital Source 2
  • DAC
    Customised DDDac
  • Pre-Amp
    Blue Velvet based
  • Power Amp/s
    Mastersound 845 mono
  • My Speakers
    Wilmslow Prestige

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  1. Turn it off when not in use and leave your dog in peace[emoji16]. Warm up time on a T Amp is a few minutes. Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk
  2. And the A and R A60 can be upgraded at reasonable cost to be a real giant-killer...........you don't need to spend loads to get great sound. Although like many others I have😀
  3. I've got stuff coming from Japan, Germany, France, Spain and the US along with the UK and I take my hat off to courier companies who are delivering the stuff with amazing efficiency. They are also delivering foodstuff, medical supplies and other important items so they are a very essential part of the coronavirus ecosystem. The ones I mainly use-Parcelforce, DPD or UPS-either make sure I see them on answering the door before putting then item down before I open the door, or take a photo of the item having seen me come to the door. So I've nothing but praise for them. Postal services from all countries and within the UK are very slow tho IME
  4. No too much mention of valve amps yet.......I have now serviced /restored around 30 Radford and Audio Innovations amps now and properly fettled these amps will stand any comparison with modern gear. A couple of weeks ago I restored some JR149s with new drivers and crossovers and these driven by a Radford sta25 and one of my DACs or my Oppo Sonica reference produced astonishing sound quality and substantial bass and left me wondering what more would you want? On the solid state side, I would add various Quad amps, some Pioneers, the aforementioned A and R 60 and some NAD amps that all stand out as offering a very satisfying musical experience. So yes, if I was starting again I'd definitely look to a classic amp driven by a modern DAC or deck with some decent speakers. David
  5. Juancho

    Done at last

    Hi Richard, there's at least one commercial design that runs 5670s in series and with no reported problems, so you're probably safe enough there. I used 0.01uf on the output of a BB1794 DAC in NOS mode to reduce quantisation hiss, as it theoretically did not affect audio frequencies but removed it in the end as I felt it dulled the HF response, so may be worth experimenting with. David
  6. Juancho

    Done at last

    Great work Richard! Glad it's working! You could always series your two 5670s for 12.6v heater v. Not sure why you want 0.1 uf across your i/v resistors? There's not normally any quantisation hiss with AD1865 and that value is likely to give some treble cut...... David
  7. I've got a thirty year old HK audio video amp I use for parties and when everything else is occupied and it sounds far better than it ever should. It hasnt missed a beat, apart from loose phono sockets. Ok it's no valve amp but £60 originally, 30 years old, indestructible with surprisingly good sound it's not to be sniffed at [emoji3] Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk
  8. The trouble is your 'expansion chambers' need to be tuned to a particular engine........ARC may have revised the amp to up the heater spec or it may have been sufficient, and /or they may have made other changes to max the KT150 performance or not.......The KT150 is a monster performing valve when set up correctly which normally means higher HT and screen voltage than those other valves would stand so any amp that states you can easily swap KT150s, 120s, 88s, 90s etc around is probably going to sound like a Kawasaki on paraffin. Not quite as simple as lashing a 32mm Amal carb to my Ducati Desmo I'm afraid!
  9. Tim, You're question has already been answered above. KT120s are not included in the list of valves your amp can run-most likely because the amp is not designed for the extra heater draw so at the very least you'd need to verify this with ARC. But as the amp is not designed for KT120s you are unlikely to hear any benefits. Also, I'm not sure why you think 6550s and /or KT88s should be biased at 45ma? Is this a figure you got from ARC? It doesn't sound right to me. If KT90s are biased at 65ma it implies to me that the HT is lowish-around the 400v mark-so I'd expect bias to be higher. So once again, I would double check with ARC what bias you should use for 6550s or KT88s in this amp. David
  10. As my and Rabski's replies above indicate there are several considerations here. Firstly, without changing any other parameter you will not gain any power output: by changing the bias you are changing the idling current and the amount of power produced in Class A (if a Class AB amp). Secondly, as Rabs points out the heater current draw differs between eg KT88, 90 and 120 and 150 valves, although the difference between the 120 and 150 heater draw is small enough that it shouldn't cause any problems. Thirdly, an amp designed for 120s may sound terrible with 150s due to differences in operating points. My Leben cs1000p is a case in point. It's designed around KT120s and while the 150s run without any problems the amp sounds awful with KT150s. My own brand Cannonball Class A amps sound virtually identical with KT120s and 150s, but with KT120s run at a lower dissipation than 150s. And finally I've just built some Radford STA100 clones as monoblocks which sound truly amazing with KT150s which thrive on the high HT voltage. So, there you have it!
  11. Need more information to answer that: Class A AB for example? But why wouldn't you run at the manufacturer's recommended level? You're not gaining output just setting the idling current and if Class AB, the output in Class A
  12. I've tried 'em all and very happily gone back to Qobuz. For me, I love their playlists and interface,and their catalogue covers my tastes-lots of jazz, classics, rock and blues-very well. Above all, SQ is consistent and the best IMO Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk
  13. Hi, I use the same Italian cases as for my Satchmo MK3 6SL7 preamp as shown in the attached photo. The valve output stage is 6SN7 wirh a choke power supply. The DAC part uses the ESS 9038pro chip and has switchable USB/SPDIF input and uses shunt regulators. You can have switchable filters if you wish. I build it with remote control using the lossless volume facility built in to the ESS chip. Price of course depends on exact spec. but around £1,200 starting price. Let me know if you want any other info. David
  14. I'm now building /selling ESS 9038 pro DACs with 6SN7 tube output stages and lossless remote control volume. Best DAC sound I've had yet! David Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk
  15. Juancho

    Roon-why ?

    I'm currently a Tidal user but moving back to Qobuz shortly as I prefer their playlists, interface and catalogue. I tried Roon but it did nothing for me that I used. It sounds the part but if I'm not going to use it in practice then what's the point? But it does seem a bit Marmite as I know others who love it so it's certainly worth a free trial David Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk