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Found 19 results

  1. I am thinking due to the return of some units and the fact that I now have some additional power amplifiers of moving my stacked KEF 103 speakers from the current two way to a three way . Using a MiniDSP DDRC22D unit I have the application of DIRAC Live covered and can use this to get a digital output signal that will have all DIRAC filters applied. Now I need a Digital Three Way crossover unit and looking round there is no that much in the way of an option . Lots of Digital Crossovers or Digital Loudspeaker Management units that will give me the six out I need but most only have an analogue in which I am not able to supply (would prefer the signal to be in the digital domain as long as possible . The only one I have been able to find is the Behringer unit below which seems to suggest that one of the XLR inputs can be made an AES/EBU digital input. I think both Keith and Colin use these units or have used them can you confirm that they will accept a digital input ? Would also like to know if they can be controlled via a PC plugged in to the unit rather than the settings boxes on the front . Behringer DCX2496 Ultradrive Pro If anyone knows of any other make that also accepts a digital input then can you also let me know which one and will do the research on them . Thanks in advance for any help .
  2. Well I have put this off as long as I could but today I have started on my project to convert 4 x KEF 103 speakers in to two stacked units . Please note that only one Tweeter each side will be connected so there will not be issues of treble coming from two different points and mashing up the stereo effect. The bottom speakers will have the bass unit only connected in parallel with the upper units and so hopefully give me some additional boost to to this part of the sound spectrum . Using Dirac Live 2.0 should smooth any transistions and keep things balanced. Today I have removed the drive units from the cabinet and removed the passive crossovers (strange this pair had Elcap Capacitors in the crossover rather than the electrlytics in my origianl pair ) . I have drilled four holes for the additional binding posts for the bass units at the back of the speakers mounted the posts and soldered the wire connection . I have also started to paint the cabinets black to match my original pair while the drivers are out . I have also put new gasket material around the edges tio ensure a good air tight seal . These are very good silicon tape and make a very positive seal but are also not prone to decay and drying like the originals . Makes things easier if I have to do any additional work that this gasket can be resealed a number of times without problem . Not much done but at least it is a start . Will try and finish the painting tomorrow and then wax the cabinets . Then just a matter of putting the drivers back soldering the connections and building the planned plinth for them to sit on . Once that is completed I will then have to get in the dangerous mode of creating the Active Crossover and running a full Dirac treatment . Hopefully at the end I will have something that is not only working but usable .
  3. My first set of speakers were purchased at the ripe old age of 12 after saving months of paper round money. You could say I was bitten by a love of music and audio quite early, influenced as I was by my father's audio system purchased with the windfall from a horse bet! Since that time I have been fortunate to own a varied and eclectic range of speakers in the pursuit of my audio nirvana over the last three decades. Everything from stacked active Quad ESL57's, Tannoy D700's, a TAD based 2-way system, Magneplanar IIb, Equinox Jupiters, VAF I-93 and most recently, ADAM Alpha 5-way actives. I have been fortunate to live with speakers of a wide range of characteristics and capabilities and heard many other systems in between, and so have developed a rather discerning ear as a result. In 2006 I was fortunate to meet and spend an evening with a legend of the Australian Audio Industry, John Burnett of Lenard Audio. I sat quietly in Johns garden shed in awe at the sound of his 4-way active Sarabandes. The power, the immediacy, and realism was something that totally belied their humble looks and relative cost. I knew I was in the company of a true expert of audio design. Time spent reading Johns website and its education pages and learning about his various designs reaffirmed the impact the Sarabandes made on me that evening. This Experience inspired me in 2008, to build up a passive 2-way MTM system using TAD 1601a/4001, this gave me a real taste of what an endgame speaker was potentially capable of. The immediacy and realism that those 15" cones and a 4" compression driver could generate was exciting & intoxicating, but my meagre DIY skills were unable to address the many crossover related SQ issues that plagued the sound and so I eventually sold them on for something more conventional. As I learnt more about Johns designs and his origins in valve amplifiers and high-efficiency systems and his schooling in classical audio science from the 60's, back before marketing took precedence over SQ, I knew that I had to re-visit my unfinished business with high efficiency and TAD. Recently John and I discussed my requirements - superlative realism, uncompromising dynamic range and world class bass capability being three attributes I could not live with out. However, I wanted something that was relatively compact ie under 1.5m and 100kg as I wanted to live with these for decades to come. John told me about a design concept that he had been waiting to realise which had been bubbling away in the back of his mind for at least the last ten years that embodied the accumulation of his lifetime's knowledge. A system that had the attributes I was seeking and the makings of being my endgame system which brings me to the point where I can finally step off the audio merry go round. So, speakerless and determined to own a system approaching the very best, I have commissioned John to build me a 4-way active system based on this concept utilising TAD drivers and dubbed the Symphony. It will utilise 4 x 12" compound cavity loaded bass per side, TAD 1601a for mid bass, a TAD TD-4001 compression driver and the TAD ET-703 horn loaded tweeter. Amplification will be four channels of Johns hand built AB design with active crossovers. I was fortunate to hear an early prototype this last weekend whilst back in Australia and to state the SQ was astounding would barely be doing what I heard justice. I lack the vocabulary to describe the prototypes sound without slipping into the usual audio jargon but it goes without saying, I am super excited at the prospect of owning a system that is truly my endgame. The bass energy was huge and incredibly resolving, John explained that the Symphony bass system was equivalent to 2 x 15" drivers in a sealed 16 cuft box per side. I will keep this thread updated as development work progresses but for now, here's a few pics of the concept to date and some of Johns less WAF friendly work. Cheers, Simon The concept: CAD (Medium) A very rough proto sandwiched between a pair of active, full valve powered White Opals to one side, and Lenard Saranbandes on the other 20170901_191923 (Large) An example of Johns more extreme work Canberra opals
  4. Hi, I have a Linn Klout with Keltic active cards fitted that I want to remove. What is the procedure to do this, are there any adaptions needed for the Klout to operate. I ask this as there seems to be a link wire that looks cut. Any help would be much appreciated. Many thanks
  5. Okay I have now committed myself to a change in build in time for Kegworth (Tony this is all your fault for making the suggestion which wormed its way in to my head) . I have a pair of 1973/4 original KEF 103 reference speakers which are two way units with a T52 SP1049 Tweeters and B200 SP1039 bass units . I loved these from when I bought them after hearing a pair at a Bake Off at Geoff,s (Oldius) . Then after my first visit to Kegworth I was exposed to some active mainly homemade designs which had a speed of delivery and sound that i found very addictive . I decided that I would like to try it out and using a MiniDSP 24HD unit as active crossover and DAC and Pre I converted a pair of old Monitor Audio units which i bought really cheap . This went well and despite a few blind alleys and finding out I had no idea what a full sweep with REW was telling me I completed the job and ended up with a very noce sounding pair of speakers. Next job was to be brave and convert the KEF 103 units to active . This proved a little more complex but again not that hard and the final result was all that I wanted it to be .Especially when I upgraded the MiniDSP to Dirac Live V1.0 . Even tones excellent controlled bass and that marvelous speed which I loved from the start. This year I was going to bring them and let others have a listen after the last spectacular failure at the Wam Show 2019 . And so it should have stayed . Then I blew up not one but two tweeters with stupidity and clumsy use of a volume control. So I needed replacement drivers which were not easy to source and in the end I bought a second pair with good drivers . When I mentioned that I had bought them Tony suggested putting one on top of the other and disconecting the treble units of the bottom pair and using the bass only to make a large 2.5 speaker. Sadly the cabinets were badly damaged when delivered but the drive units were all intact so I went with my original idea and used the T52 units as replacements and kept the B200 for possible future use as spares. Sadly the idea was already out the box and had wormed in to my head and one night while just a little the worse for Wine and Whisky I saw a very good pair available in Glasgow but only for collection . One cheeky bid later and they were mine . Holidays proved to be a pain so I went and collected them today from an AOS member and they are an excellent pair in very good condition. Now the job is on for me to create a large floor standing speaker with the two bass units in series (I think) so that they can be wired as both full playing units. I then use the MiniDSP as before to create an active crossover at 3000 khz for the treble units and the two bass to as low as they will go. Suggestions and help I would ask is that this design has the feature that the metal front panel can be mounted with the Treble above or below the bass unit or even at the side of the bass unit . My instinct is to have the top speaker as normal with treble unit above the bass unit and the bottom speaker with the bass unit at the top as close upper bass unit as possible with the disconnected treble unit at the very bottom . Does this make sense I have added a picture of a pair to assist. It would also be possible to mount the treble unit in the middle of the two bass units by making both fronts with the treble under the bass . Mission used to do this but not convinced it is any better. I would love to be able to lots of experiments with driver positioning but the way the front panel is kept in place means it is more difficult to switch when you un screw it as the captive nut is spike fixed and falls out very quickly after too many changes. So I want to try and make my decision and then stick to it so that I can get the fronts placed as few times as possible. Appreciate and advice and suggestions . I am not going to fix the two units together solidly as they are too heavy for a solo lift and too unwieldly to move about. Will use blu tack between the speakers to fix them which should be good enough . I plan to make a couple of Granite Plinths with spikes to stand the speakers on and bring the trebel unit up just a little closer to ear height .
  6. Good Morning All, Hopefully I'll not incur the wrath of the moderators as this isn't a eBay link but a Gumtree one - I'm sure somebody here might be interested? Regards Richard
  7. Excellent, almost reference quality subwoofer from highly respected Ken Kreisel. I was highly impressed how this sub excel with music material but it's equally good for home theatre duties (and movies soundtracks in general). Here is the relevant review and I would agree to most of the aspects mentioned there: For more information about the tech: My 2.1 system (as part of the secondary system) is not in use any more, hence this is now surplus to requirement and available for sale. It was very well taken care of with original accessories and original packing. As this is rather a heavy item! I would prefer local collection. £725 + associated shipping costs or collection from TW8 area (preferable)
  8. Welcome to my build of a Focal Utopia speaker clone with active crossover. The Idea My interest for a new project started at the 2017 Scalford show where I was impressed by the 4 way open baffle speakers with active crossover built by rv295 and the Linn linear active crossover demo which got me thinking that a self-build speaker would be a lot less hassle and more fun without the passive crossover which I always found frustrating as the design is fixed, difficult to alter and has so much bearing on the sound. I have done one DIY speaker before, a ProAc 2.5 Response clone with components and crossover supplied by Wilmslow, it did the job but I thought it could have been better if I could tweak the crossover. I had been thinking of doing another DIY speaker for a workshop/studio I am building in my garage and have always been a fan of the radical design of the Focal Utopia range. Then I came across an advert for a 3 way set of Focal AudioM drive units (15" WX woofer, 6.5" WM mid, TD5 tweeter) and struck upon the idea of building a Utopia clone with these drivers giving some lineage to the original, although not the same units used in the current Utopia range by any means, they do have some similarities and probably very similar to the 1st generation Utopia from 1999. I did considered doing my own design but there is something rewarding about building a clone speaker as it fulfills a desire for a recognised high end product at a fraction of the cost and most of the design work is already done for you if you follow the same dimensions, baffle, port etc. So I decided to take a gamble on the 12 year old drive units, the seller did demo them individually (thanks Mani!), but its pretty difficult to know what your getting into by listening to each unit on its own. The Prototype As this a pretty complex cabinet build and Im not sure of the integrity of the second hand drive units I decided to build a prototype to help me understand the angles and taper of the cabinets while testing the drive units do actually sound decent before launching into a full scale build. This also gave me the opportunity to get to grips with the woodworking as it has been a while since I used a router. As I only have 3 way drive units I am aiming for something that looks like the Utopia Scala but with the size of the Stella to accommodate the 15" woofer. I'm keeping a 4 way design in mind for the future to achieve the full Grand Utopia III with additional drive units, if the project is a success and I can source the drivers on the cheap (I have since purchased another set of 6.5 mids almost identical which were previously used in car audio where there is a healthy 2nd hand market for Focal components, and now intend to aim for something more like the Stella, probably a 3 1/2 way design). I have been using the original Utopia speaker dimensions and photos as a guide to the design with a lot of guess work. The rear taper and angles on the baffle are proving a challenge and I can't find this info anywhere on the web. For the first prototype I built a simple frame to support the baffles and give me an idea of the various angles to achieve the 'Focus Time' idea of all drive units directed to the listeners ear, I used the laser on my skill saw to line up the angles against a point on the wall at ear height ;). For the second speaker I decided to build enclosed cabinets for the woofer and mid to give me an idea of how the volumes and porting affect the sound. This was more work but helped me to understand the angles required for the tapered rear of the cabinet. I used the volume provided on the drive unit spec sheet as a guide. I already like the look of the speaker very much, like an alien creature. My wife calls them 'The Dominators' and at 1600 H x 600 W x 800 D they definitely have some presence. Such is the luxury of having a dedicated listening space (i.e. a garage) you can go wild on size and looks and still get it past the missus. If the prototype is a success I will add another 25mm baffle to the 18mm prototype to get the curved baffle and flared opening. I have not used any glue on the prototypes so I can change the design easily. When Im happy with the design I will add internal bracing and glue together using compression straps to get proper sealed units. Initial Testing With the prototypes roughly screwed together and resting on the 2 x 25mm MDF for the plinths I setup all the components and connected speaker cable to each drive unit using crocodile clips. For the electronics, the drive units came with a Furman TX-24 Tuneable Active Crossover unit which I can use for testing before deciding on a digital active crossover (likely to be MiniDSP as the Linn offering will be too expensive for me), I need 3 amps and didn’t want to invest too much so went for fanless pro audio amps (Behringer A500) which I got on eBay for £80 each. I brought a bunch of XLR leads and reused some existing speaker cable. This will give me a cheap way to get started and will upgrade each component as the system proves itself. Although I found a manual for the Furman Crossover online I really don’t know what Im doing and it took me a long time to get any kind of coherent sound. By slowly adjusting the crossover point and outputs to each component and the volumes on each amp, I managed to get a full bandwidth sound and proved that the drive units are all in good working order. The crossover frequencies I Ianded on with the Furman are: Low-mid 60 khz, Mid-hi 1500 khz. Although I ran into problems with vibration from the bass units at volume due to the roughly built prototypes, I ended up with a controlled large scale sound with excellent projection into the room and my impression is that the drive units are high quality and I should be able to achieve a very good end result once its all put together and coupled to decent electronics. This was a welcome result at the right time as even building the prototypes has been a lot of heavy dusty work and I was starting to question what I was doing. I now feel motivated to continue the build and purchase the other components needed to complete. I will replace the 18mm side walls on the bass units with 25mm as there is a lot of vibration from the 15" woofer and I don’t think cross bracing will fix this. The next challenge will be the curved baffle where I will sandwich 25mm MDF onto the 18mm prototype and curved side walls. My experience with the cheap pro audio amps was not very positive, I ended up returning 2 of them due to defects, and found the sound quality pretty poor with very high SPL and a coarse, grainy sound not suited to home listening. Cabinet Build Before I started on the build proper I visited a well-known London hifi store to see the Stella in person. This was very helpful to get a feel for the overall size and the various curves of the cabinet. They are very impressive in scale and design. To understand the volume and port size of the woofer cabinet I played around with Unibox but this just confirmed the dimensions I already had in mind from dissecting the actual Utopia speaker dimensions. I bought a belt sander which is very good for shaping wood quickly and found this to be the best way to make the curved baffles and flared opening for drivers which was easier than expected. For the curved sidewall I used 6mm MDF bent around a baton and glued and screwed into place as I dont trust glue alone to hold the pressure on the curved panel over time. For most of the construction I have used glue and screw method into batons to join panels together. I looked at jointing methods but the angled side walls makes it tricky to get a flush finish to both sides of the join. I then used flexible wood filler to complete any gaps in the cabinet to avoid leakage. The build process on the first speaker was slow with a lot of thought required how to achieve the curves on the baffles and how to join the boxes together. Each box took around 12 hours or more work to complete over about 4 months of late evenings. I made all the baffles for both speakers in one go, doing all the cut outs while the router was setup for that cut and machined from a single piece of wood where possible so that the curved sides were consistent and then cut to length. This sped up the construction of the second speaker massively which was done in about 2 weeks. Building such large elaborate boxes for the tweeters did seem over the top but once the whole speaker is put together it makes sense and the long hours are forgiven. The joining blocks between each box were tricky to construct as it need to be angled on both sides like a V somewhere near 20 degrees and solid all the way around. When shaving down these blocks I ended up with a LOT of waste material but it was the only way to get solid angled blocks. The angle of the boxes to the listener, or the focus time , will be fixed but can be adjusted using spacers if needed. The bolts and wingnuts give a way to break down the cabinets without too much trouble if needed for transport but took some thinking through as the cabinets will be closed before painting so had to put all the bolts in place first and hold in place with nuts. The photo below shows the waste material from the slim angled panels before being cut and joined together to form a V shape for the joining blocks. A real mess! Finally I had the cabinets completed and sanded ready for painting. There was a lot of work to get a consistent shape and depth to the overlapped edges between the top panels and side panels. The front baffles cover the front edge of the top and bottom panels on most boxes to avoid a join on the baffle face. I did some simple testing with the woofer in place to ensure bass response was effective with no vibration from the cabinet. I did consider putting all the drive units, cabling and electronics together in the unpainted state to test the sound and make adjustments but the design is already complete and I don’t fancy changing it so going straight to painting. Painting While I like the look of the black baffle and coloured side panels and the definition of the black edging around the boxes that the actual Utopias use, it would require a lot of masking to get the same finish because of the way I have fixed the side panels in place. So I opted for one colour all over on the boxes and a matt black finish to the plinths and tweeter units for contrast like the Utopia Evo series. I used a 2K auto paint, primer, base coat and clear coat finish, all applied using a HVLP spray system I had used previously for my house. The 2K paint is nasty stuff and although I used proper breathing apparatus it was still a very toxic job and Im lucky my garage is far away from other houses. Next time I would use a water based primer and base coat and a 2K clear coat but I took what the local paint shop gave me. I had a few runs in the clear coat but managed to sand these out with fine grit paper and very pleased with the end result. I could have spent more time perfecting the finish by wet sanding and respraying the clear coat to get a mirror finish but I just cant justify the time. I had considered taking to a local paint shop but Im pleased I could do the whole thing myself and avoided having to transport the heavy units. This photo shows the tweeter units with the bolts fixed in place for connecting the units together. Putting it all together After joining all the boxes together and running internal speaker cable through holes from top to bottom I used crimped terminal connectors to connect the drivers which I found much easier than soldering. I then crimped the internal speaker cable directly onto the external cable so the cable is fixed to the speaker but easy enough to change as the rear panel of the bass unit is removable. The external speaker cable is 8 core Van Damme 2.5mm. I figured 2.5mm would be fine for each drive unit and the heavy duty 8 core touring cable is a neat solution. I used hex bolts on all the drive units which gives a great finish. The large hex bolts on the baffle of the tweeter unit are for looks only to mimic the original. I added some absorption foam inside the units on the sides and rear to soak up reflections and some internal bracing to support the woofer from underneath as they are very heavy units. First Listening For the crossover I ordered a miniDSP OpenDRC DA-8 so I can try the FIR filters for linear phase but for the initial setup I just used the same crossover frequencies that I used on the Furman and with no PEQ, levelling or timing adjustment the sound was better than expected in all areas which is very reassuring and it appears the cabinets are not negatively affecting the sound, at least to my ear. In fact the sound was good enough for an impromptu Friday night disco as word got around the neighbourhood. The sound output is pretty massive and easily fills my 9M x 5M garage with bass levels to rival a night club. The speakers start to reveal themselves at high volumes and are better suited to bass driven electronic music but it is still possible to speak easily over the sound so I would say the sound is pretty clean. There is no real sweet spot as the presentation is very wide which encourages you to get up and walk around while listening or dance. The bass extension is pretty phenomenal and will easily rattle the windows and vibrate the ceiling but is easy to tame with the volume control on the amps. This is a speaker that is suited to a large dedicated listening space and would be pretty antisocial in your average terraced house. I have since played around with measurements in REW and PEQ filters but didn’t find much improvement so may not be doing it correctly. I am now moving onto rePhase and FIR filters but struggling with importing the measurement into rePhase. The learning curve is pretty step and the miniDSP application notes while useful leave out a lot of important details. I'm running the two sets of mid-range drivers on the same XO frequency on different output channels so they are insync and this works well. I have experimented with overlapping one of the mid-range channels further across the spectrum with different filter types which also sounds good but not consistently. Having two sets of mid-range drivers really adds to the overall sound presentation and Im happy I purchased the second set and went to the effort of building the additional boxes. For the amps I bought a NAD CI 9060 6 channel amp and kept one of the A500s for the bass to get 8 channels total. The NAD has enough omph to bring things to life but will need more re-enforcement in the bass and will look at Hypex when funds allow. Conclusion Im proud of what I managed to build and very pleased with the end result. Visitors are quite literally blown away by the scale and sound of the speakers which is fun in itself and its been a very enjoyable project. I still have a way to go with tuning the XO and will hopefully achieve linear phase at some point. The finish on the cabinets is nothing like that of the actual Utopias and puts into perspective the workmanship and man hours that goes into a speaker like that. But still, it gives me a little taste of the Focal Utopia experience, a poor man's Utopia. Now onto building the studio to house the speakers.
  9. Well, despite reading comments on here about the benefits of in-room EQ, room measurements, etc. it has taken until now for me to shell out on the Minidsp Umik-1 digital microphone, necessary for making the required measurements. For many months, I had already been using a Minidsp 4x2HD, configured as a crossover for my 4 x EAR 509 II monoblocs, Quad ESL63/ Gradient SW63 woofer system but I wasn't doing any further equalization to correct for any in-room anomalies, as I thought my system sounded very good and that the room was probably good, too. Well, as I'd built up a little extra money in my bank account, I thought I'd take a punt and spend the £109 for the microphone. A quick install of the free REW software on the laptop, a handful of room frequency sweeps , some reading to get some understanding of what REW was doing and the processing of the correction file into my Minidsp 2x4HD and I am pretty gobsmacked. The sweeps highlighted, amongst other things, quite a lift in the 200-300hz region and dips in the sub-110hz region(from memory, anyway). With the correction applied, it's so much better to listen to. Bass is tighter, easier to follow and as a result, detail in the mids and highs is now easier to hear. I'm just simply getting more enjoyment from the music. I didn't spend a great deal of time with the sweeps etc. and fully intend to do some more but putting more time and effort into it. However, for now, I just want to sit and play my music and enjoy the new experience. Once I'm used to the new sound I will find sone time to do further work, including trying out the trial version of Dirac Live. For anyone that has a minidsp unit and hasn't yet got hold of a mic to run some room measurements/correction, I unreservedly recommend that you do so. As has been stated many times by people that have done this, the interaction between the loudspeakers and the room is key and you can obtain a big improvement for a relatively small expenditure by working in this area.
  10. Note: I'm on a steep learning curve here as I'd always thought of a pre- simply as the thing you connect various sources to and control the volume from (like the C-90 in my Pioneer rig). Apparently, selection of the right pre-amp plays an important role in the ultimate SQ coming out of the speakers. I learned that yesterday! I've just bought an absolutely mint pair of ATC SCM40 passives courtesy of Keith @PuritéAudio which sound fantastic. They will be installed in Kendal next week. A39 integrated will drive them initially; it's a good amp but I know a better one would get the most out of the highly regarded SCM40's. But before I dive in, it's worth spending a few minutes pondering the medium-to-long term game here: the active SCM40A's. These are even more highly regarded and at the RRP of £6,750 (vs £3,750 for the passives) represent ridiculous value for money. Having poked around, I realise that if I were to try to get SCM40A sound quality out of the SCM40's then I'd need to spend a lot more on external amplification than the £3,000 difference in RRP between the SCM40 and SCM40A. Hence the SCM40A's quickly becoming my end-game speaker for Kendal. I can't get there yet of course. So what do I do in the meantime? Replace the A39 with a better integrated like the markedly superior A49? Or ATC"s on SIA-150 (I have yet to see a used one for sale so unlikely)? Or do I look to separate out the pre- and power aspects of the amp, with one eye on the pre- which will ultimately feed the SCM40A's? The latter is where my head is right now, so some questions for you black belt wammers: If you own the SCM40A's or are familar with them, what experiences do you have of various pre-amps letting them sing or holding them back? Steping back from specific models, what are the factors you would consider first and foremost in selecting a pre-amp to feed a high quality power amp like those in the SCM40A's? (I understand that peak current may be one consideration and, for example amongst vintage options, one which might make the Rotel RHB-10 a better option than the Pioneer M-90, though both are superficially the same 200W output) Very specifically to ATC, has anyone heard the CDA2 vs the CA2 (the SCA2 is well beyone my reach)? They are the same dimensions and weight but one is a lot more than a pre-amp: has the pre-amp part of the CDA2 been compromised vs the CA2? Thanks for humouring me. Oh, and I have a strong leaning towards solid-state rather than valves: you could try to turn me but it might be more helpful if you could just mutter "Bless!" under your breath and humour me... All the best, Nigel
  11. Naim / Linn Isobarik Active System 3 off NAP 250 2 off Hicap 1 off NAC 32.5 (including MC Phono board). 1 off NAXO 3-6 Pair of Linn Isobarik PMS S/N 004747 & 004748 Plus all SNAICs. NAC A4 speaker cables approx. 2.5 m long. Outstanding condition considering their age. Despite no service record the SQ is excellent, particularly midrange. I have boxes for the Naim kit but not the speakers so collection ONLY (Aylesbury, UK). Price £4995
  12. Does anyone have experience with the Ground Sound DCN28 Digital Crossover. I am looking for a DSP for a 4 way active speaker build and this Danish product looks very well made although it does carry a hefty price tag (£3,750). This is comparable to the Linn Exaktbox pricing but doesnt require an additional streamer as it takes USB input from PC directly and feels less tied in than the Linn route. It has its own X-over software and room correction but I have no idea how the software compares to Exakt or Minidsp. Appreciate any comments. Thanks
  13. For sale, a pair of highly renowned Adam A7 active studio monitors, in good condition and full working order. These are the first iteration of this monitor, which a lot of people seem to prefer. Adam have a good reputation, so be assured that these are excellent. Adam ribbon tweeters, which are well regarded. Cosmetically they are good but not perfect. There are a couple of small bits of veneer separation, which is in no way structural, and only at the rear. I have shown these in the photos. These have had only light home-studio use. Selling as I have upgraded. Being active, these are essentially a whole amp/speaker system in one, so at the price, that is a lot of decent sound for not much money. And they look bad-ass, in a dark pro-audio, sci-fi kind of way! They will serve admirably for a standmount-sized main system, a second system, or studio system. I love them, but they are just sitting doing nothing, so better to move them on. I don't have the original packaging, but I would pack well and courier at cost to be agreed, or obviously would prefer collection. I am in Devon, not too far from Exeter. Payment by cash or bank transfer. £300.
  14. REDUCED FOR QUICK SALE BEFORE I GO ON HOLIDAY. £800 PLUS DELIVERY. WOULD NEED TO SHIP NO LATER THAN 15TH DECEMBER. As per the title BNIB £1000 plus delivery. Possible delivery by me or meet up depending on distance.
  15. Purité Audio are delighted to announce the arrival of PSI Audio . PSI are highly thought of in the world of pro audio , we have a pair of their A17-M active monitors on permanent demonstration. The A17-M monitors have adjustable output and boundary filters allowing you to place the loudspeakers anywhere in your room, sound quality is superb, bass in particular is extraordinary considering the compact size. Keith
  16. Dutch&Dutch are a new high tech loudspeaker company based( 10metres under sea level ) ,in Rotterdam the Netherlands, we are delighted to be representing their cutting edge loudspeaker designs. keith
  17. ** These are listed in Digital/Computer Hifi also, but thought I'd list the speakers in here too** Selling this set up as I'm going down a different route, again, as I'm relocating my office to a small box bedroom whilst the extension/building work happens downstairs This is a superb active set-up IMO, superb for a desktop system or simple active system. The speakers are absolutely superb, really been very impressed with them, sound great on isolation blocks and even better on heavy stands! The Presonus Audiobox iOne is a great interface and is USB fed/powered, so ideal to go between a USB/PC/Mac source and the speakers Links: JBL's - Presonus - I both this set-up and cables (1/4" TRS cables) brand new a few months back; they've been on my desk and never moved, they're literally as new! Come fully boxed etc... Selling ideally as a package, shipping is included - £235 via bank transfer But: Speakers on their own (inc cables): £180 inc shipping (2 separate boxes, £10 each to send due to size/weight) Presonus on its own: £55 inc postage Sensible offers considered though! Pics:
  18. Our first pair of active ATM SCM50 ASL loudspeakers should arrive this week! I am genuinely excited at the prospect of hearing them here. Keith
  19. Hello, Im selling my Accoustic Energy AE22 Professional, These have been used via XLRs from my Benchmark DAC1 HDR FOR TV sound only. These are superb and weigh a ton,They are an Infinite baffle design so are easy to accommodate There is lots of info on the web. About 18 months old. All Original packing materials and shipping cartons. Excellent Condition, Reason for sale- Downsizing £399 plus p&p, estimated to be about £25 Like these. All the best, Paul