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marko

Fermentation problem!

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Super Wammer

Hi All,

I’ve been a wammer for many years, though never posted on the home brew section. Nice to find myself here!

20 + years ago, I was the Brewer for nearly 5 years at a one of the first and most influential micro’s, Roosters Brewery in Harrogate. I was very privileged to learn and work under Brewer Sean Franklin, who taught me everything I know. 

As a refresher, I attended a week long course at Brewlab 2 years ago. I’m now home brewing with my friend Rick, which is great. We began a year ago with a makeshift ‘tower’ system and although I’m a bit ‘rusty’, all went pretty well. 3 months ago, Rick bought a Klarstein ‘all in one’ system, a doddle to use! However, from that moment on, we’ve had a problem with fermentation, which was never an issue before. 

Prior to the Klarstein, we would regularly make strongish beers (5-6%abv) and happily ferment down to 1012 ish. Now, we are struggling to ferment below 1020 and sometimes 1025! Same ingredients, same yeast, just different process. We cannot work out what is going on?

I would be really grateful for any HELP!! Many thanks.

Mark.

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Unfortunately I can't help but I was interested by your post. You seem to have some pretty good kit there. Last time I tried home brew I had a barrel and a tin of concentrate from Boots, the result was pretty bad as I recall. I had more success with their all in one brewing bag but not done that for years I don't even know if you can buy them now.

Strangely enough I know more about the fermentation process of Terramycin (antibiotic) but that is not so good to drink. 

I think when this Coronavirus thing is over I may well have a go at making my own beer again but hopefully with better equipment, any starter tips gratefully received.

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Super Wammer

Hi Tony, 

The all in one Klarstein system is surprisingly simple to use. It is a full mash system and we’ve made some quite marvellous beer. Like anything else, takes a little time to familiarise oneself with how to use. 
By all means, happy to help as and when you decide to brew. It is Alchemy!! Keep well! 


ATB

Mark.

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17 minutes ago, marko said:

Hi Tony, 

The all in one Klarstein system is surprisingly simple to use. It is a full mash system and we’ve made some quite marvellous beer. Like anything else, takes a little time to familiarise oneself with how to use. 
By all means, happy to help as and when you decide to brew. It is Alchemy!! Keep well! 


ATB

Mark.

Thanks Mark, I'm really looking forward to giving it a go. Since I've retired I've been looking for a hobby and I never really thought about brewing before,  once I finally get my house sale over with I will be in touch.

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Could be faulty temperature guage leading to too high mash temperature? Not enough O2 before fermentation?

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On 09/04/2020 at 18:03, AntA said:

Thanks Mark, I'm really looking forward to giving it a go. Since I've retired I've been looking for a hobby and I never really thought about brewing before,  once I finally get my house sale over with I will be in touch.

Its a great hobby, especially in these times of high alcohol consumption. All the empty bottles get filled up again!

  • Haha 1

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I was just reading the other beer thread and paying all that cash for beer.

At the moment I have 22 litres of verdant pulp being dry hopped in the fermenter. £1 a pint or £7 a can from the shop. I probably get 90 % of the shop bought taste.

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Posted (edited)

I used to brew my own beer, using full mash, never used malt extract, never knew there was a home brew section on here. I found strong beers around 8% would stick sometimes and I would add a wine yeast to get them going again but 5-6% should not be a problem. I'm not familiar with the Klarstein system.

What temperature are you fermenting at? 

Edited by BeeRay

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Super Wammer

Thanks guys for your thoughts! Yes, a good shout; quite possibly temperature gauge in the ‘all in one’ mash/boiler, as I’m not too sure where it is positioned. If so, this would account for the spectrum of sugars to be slightly ‘out‘ for correct fermentation. Fermentation temp begins @18*c and goes to about 22*c, so think that’s pretty much ok. No ‘off flavours’ in the finished beer which is a good sign. In view of the obvious, probably not going to brew for a while now, so cheers🍻🍺. Still have a few bottles left, 👍

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9 hours ago, marko said:

Thanks guys for your thoughts! Yes, a good shout; quite possibly temperature gauge in the ‘all in one’ mash/boiler, as I’m not too sure where it is positioned. If so, this would account for the spectrum of sugars to be slightly ‘out‘ for correct fermentation. Fermentation temp begins @18*c and goes to about 22*c, so think that’s pretty much ok. No ‘off flavours’ in the finished beer which is a good sign. In view of the obvious, probably not going to brew for a while now, so cheers🍻🍺. Still have a few bottles left, 👍

Good luck and let us know how you got on. Only a few bottles left? I try to ensure all bottles are full and I have over 300 bottles. We are coming up to summer when all the lager and IPA's are more difficult to brew. Moving into Gose and wheat beer time.

And what gets me is why are the summer drinking beers best brewed in winter and the winter drinking beers best brewed in summer? Totally backward! Unless you have a fermentation fridge.

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On 26/04/2020 at 21:29, BeeRay said:

I used to brew my own beer, using full mash, never used malt extract, never knew there was a home brew section on here. I found strong beers around 8% would stick sometimes and I would add a wine yeast to get them going again but 5-6% should not be a problem. I'm not familiar with the Klarstein system.

What temperature are you fermenting at? 

Are you still brewing now?

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Posted (edited)
11 hours ago, marko said:

Thanks guys for your thoughts! Yes, a good shout; quite possibly temperature gauge in the ‘all in one’ mash/boiler, as I’m not too sure where it is positioned. If so, this would account for the spectrum of sugars to be slightly ‘out‘ for correct fermentation. Fermentation temp begins @18*c and goes to about 22*c, so think that’s pretty much ok. No ‘off flavours’ in the finished beer which is a good sign. In view of the obvious, probably not going to brew for a while now, so cheers🍻🍺. Still have a few bottles left, 👍

Yes it could be the mashing temperature is too high, then those sugars don't ferment so easily. What mashing temperature are you using?

Fermenting temperature is OK, I used a lower one if possible and mainly brewed outside the summer. I never used bottles, barrels were much better I found.

Edited by BeeRay

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Super Wammer

Thanks BeeRay! Mashing temp is 66*c. which if achieved, is correct I think? Any deviation will affect fermentation, as you allude too.?

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On 09/04/2020 at 15:49, marko said:

Hi All,

I’ve been a wammer for many years, though never posted on the home brew section. Nice to find myself here!

20 + years ago, I was the Brewer for nearly 5 years at a one of the first and most influential micro’s, Roosters Brewery in Harrogate. I was very privileged to learn and work under Brewer Sean Franklin, who taught me everything I know. 

As a refresher, I attended a week long course at Brewlab 2 years ago. I’m now home brewing with my friend Rick, which is great. We began a year ago with a makeshift ‘tower’ system and although I’m a bit ‘rusty’, all went pretty well. 3 months ago, Rick bought a Klarstein ‘all in one’ system, a doddle to use! However, from that moment on, we’ve had a problem with fermentation, which was never an issue before. 

Prior to the Klarstein, we would regularly make strongish beers (5-6%abv) and happily ferment down to 1012 ish. Now, we are struggling to ferment below 1020 and sometimes 1025! Same ingredients, same yeast, just different process. We cannot work out what is going on?

I would be really grateful for any HELP!! Many thanks.

Mark.

Did you get to the bottom of this?

Before Iockdown I needed supplies. As Maltmiller was sold out of most things I changed suppliers. The yeast supplied was Bry-97. I used the same process as I usually use (BIAB). I have not has a stalled fermentation for ages. I had a stout OG1052 stall at FG1020. Next beer was fine OG1076 to FG1014. Then a Dunkelweisen OG1054 stall at FG1020.

I think its the yeast that is the problem. Really vigorous ferment initially and then stops. My brewing method is exactly the same. I don't think its the grain.

With the Dunkelweizen, I have added two packets of Safale-05 that I know works to see if I can get lower than the 1020. Its not the proper yeast for the style but I feel as the beer has already dropped 32 gravity points, this means the character will be there (and I didn't have any more of the right yeast).

I'll reply back if it is the yeast.

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