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How to get into an epos es22 speaker? Its a mystery.


eddie-baby
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Unless the front panel is only lightly attached, then there's only one way they're coming apart and it won't be pretty by the looks of things.

If it's only for the connections, then I think you're just best off to use stacking banana plugs of some sort.

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9 minutes ago, rabski said:

Unless the front panel is only lightly attached, then there's only one way they're coming apart and it won't be pretty by the looks of things.

If it's only for the connections, then I think you're just best off to use stacking banana plugs of some sort.

I know, it could get ugly. Its all pretty tightly sealed it seems. And I dont want to unnecessary damage them for a mod.

The plugs are a bit of a pain tried loads over the years. Some are better than others but even the best banana plugs arnt great and most of the best are not stackable as such. I have some real heavy thick cable as well (not in shot here) which is very awkward with terminating to any banana plus let alone special ones and making fancy jumpers. But I will continue to look for other types, something might turn up which will do it better.

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In a way it’s good that there are no crossovers since that’s one less thing to go wrong.

As Rabski suggests, do something clever with the connections. You can run single wire to the rear of each speaker and then do something flash with some short pieces of speaker cable, 12 banana plugs and 4 banana sockets.
It’ll require a bit of soldering but it’ll get you out of your current state of flux. :) 

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Pain. If you can manage to get two bits of wire in one banana, then obviously you can do two into one plug to connect to bass and mids, and two into the second plug for mids to treble, but I know it's a bloody pain. Some of the best I've found are surprisingly the Amazon cheap as hell things. Look for the ones that have two screws in the barrel to take the cable. If they're still the same ones I've got off there, you can squeeze a 4mm and 2.5mm in, so 4mm for the main run and 2.5mm to the mids, etc.

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The Chinese wbt copies are good for really thick cable so use those for 1st connection with a 2.5mm feed out to the next and then large access solder plugs for 2 - 3 so you can solder 2x 2.5mm and normal bananas for hole 3.

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17 minutes ago, Lurch said:

The Chinese wbt copies are good for really thick cable so use those for 1st connection with a 2.5mm feed out to the next and then large access solder plugs for 2 - 3 so you can solder 2x 2.5mm and normal bananas for hole 3.

I bought a load of various from China, some weren't bad actually, in fact some of the best plugs I've bought. Realy thick wire is such a pain to terminate decently in banana plugs though, and the thicker it is the harder time you have with it. I like me fancy wires tho :D

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Some speakers of this era had drivers with a bayonet fitting .. so god knows how you get into them unless there is a special tool (or if the screw holes for conventional fitting are under the cover and you can knock it round with a hammer and something in the screw hole - but god knows how you get it back if you do.  

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Simon on pfm just listed some for sale, maybe he can advise 

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3 minutes ago, hifinutt said:

Simon on pfm just listed some for sale, maybe he can advise 

I have asked pf. I don't think anyone knows unless they've worked at epos or just happened to stripped a set. It's criptic :)

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7 minutes ago, hifinutt said:

Simon on pfm just listed some for sale, maybe he can advise 

Actually he just has responded and it seems he has :D Looks a bit messy though. I will have to look into this more closely 

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I had a pair of epos some years ago, and if I remember they came with two baffle/grille. One was a plain one as show in the pictures and the other was a fabric covered one. So the plain one should just push off using the tool in the lower picture which fits in a hole on the rear of the speaker. (Just above the tweeter)

Epos Epic 2 Loudspeakers

Epos Epic 2 Loudspeakers

Edited by Radioham
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You could use 2 solid 5mm copper bars with 3 banana plugs soldered on at 90 degrees in just the right positions and a banana socket soldered on facing downwards at the bottom end, to slot directly into the back of the speaker. That would at least be robust enough to support any cable from the amp side.

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  • 1 year later...

Hi,  did you ever solve your issue?, I have a pair of ES 25''s,  I think all the ES range were built the same way, the only way to access the drivers and internals is to remove the front black trims surrounding the drivers, I didn't like the look of them and wanted to expose the drive units to make the speakers more conventional looking. They can be removed but it's not easy as they are fixed on with adhesive, I started with a Stanley knife, very carefully  scored all the way around the edge and then got a blade and gently got behind the plate,  you can then very slowly remove the trim and expose the drive units, this can cause minor damage to the cabinets but after some gentle sanding and some satin  black paint I much preferred how they looked. I still have the trims and they can be re- fixed if needs be. Hope this helps. 

20210531_180551.jpg

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I had a pair oof ES30s for some years, yes I think you have to remove that front stuck on panel which ain't easy.

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20 hours ago, Red Lucas said:

Hi,  did you ever solve your issue?, I have a pair of ES 25''s,  I think all the ES range were built the same way, the only way to access the drivers and internals is to remove the front black trims surrounding the drivers, I didn't like the look of them and wanted to expose the drive units to make the speakers more conventional looking. They can be removed but it's not easy as they are fixed on with adhesive, I started with a Stanley knife, very carefully  scored all the way around the edge and then got a blade and gently got behind the plate,  you can then very slowly remove the trim and expose the drive units, this can cause minor damage to the cabinets but after some gentle sanding and some satin  black paint I much preferred how they looked. I still have the trims and they can be re- fixed if needs be. Hope this helps. 

20210531_180551.jpg

Thanks for the response. I asked  on PinkFish as well and got a good response there with someone who owned a set of 22s. He did say pretty much what you did and showed photos. I actually never went through with it in the end it was just a mod I was planning to make them connect to one terminal in the back, have them single wired instead of tri. The plugs are sunk and it just makes any sort of single wire difficult unless you use some sort of special made jumpers. I modified a set of 11s as they were much easier access but my 22s are not getting any use at the moment anyway, but I may do the mod on them one day. I don't like this triwire business but unless I get 3 dedicated amps for them, cant see that happening though and I just like the simplicity of single wire.

Nice system you have there :^

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