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Rdw

Amp and positions for Jamo Classic 8 speakers?

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Hi All,

First post so bear with me :)

Background (skip to questions if you're in a rush!)

I've had a pair of Jamo Classic 8s for years now. They were my first relatively pricey audio purchase as a student. Had to replace one driver to get them working properly, but they've not had a single issue in the last 8 years. We've just moved house and finally have space to potentially allow these speakers to sound their best.

My current integrated amp is a Sony TA-FE370, which was cheap as chips, has given great service, owes me nothing, but now I feel like treating myself to something better :) My budget is £100-1000 and I am much more interested in absolute sound quality than too many features. I own some vinyl but dig it out barely once per year. Mostly I listen to music from an Ipod Classic or Macbook Pro via a 3.5mm aux jack. This has created a "blockage" since my Ipod is full, and I don't have space for my music collection and work files on my laptop. The end result is that I have all my music on hard drives, rarely update the Ipod, and my music discovery has slowed to a crawl. I am in the process of choosing a high quality streaming service, from Tidal/Amazon/Spotify tbc. The masterplan is for the music to be controlled from multiple phones or computers wirelessly, with easy switching between devices, and separate speaker sets in the lounge, kitchen, and workshop. I'm already discovering the opportunities and pitfalls of bluetooth. On some friends' systems, I struggle to hear a difference between APTx vs a wired connection playing FLAC/AAC. Conversely several bluetooth devices sound muffled, boxy, dynamically flat, or otherwise flawed. Another functional issue I have with bluetooth is the issue of swapping source devices, having to disconnect one before attaching another.

Questions:

1. Speaker position: Given the absence of any online manual (happy to be corrected!) for the Jamo Classic 8s, can someone suggest optimal speaker positions in the room please? Our new lounge measures 5.8m x 3.4m.

2. Replacement Amp: I want to replace my Sony TA-FE370 integrated amplifier with something better. In practical terms it needs to have inputs for: a) Either a bluetooth receiver or wireless streamer or raspberry Pi  b) TV c) Phono (although current record player outputs at line level so seems to have a built-in preamp) d) at least one other aux input. It needs to provide sufficient power to make the most of the Jamo Classic 8s (4ohms, 150Wrms/200Wpeak each side) without distorting. A useable EQ would be good to reduce frequency peaks/troughs caused by the limitations of room-shape and speaker position. Separate HF and LF outputs to the speakers might be handy if that is likely to provide audio benefits for the Jamos which have HF/LF inputs that are currently bridged. I would consider an integrated amp or separates, if the whole package meets my needs. Sonically, I like to be able to pick out individual instruments, experience the maximum dynamic range from each recording, and not feel that certain frequencies are lacking or over-emphasised. My go-to test albums are Pink Floyd's Delicate Sounds of Thunder, Betty Davis' Is it Love or Desire?, Curtis Mayfield's Curtis Live, Alice in Chains' MTV Unplugged, Maceo Parker' Live on Planet Groove, Fat Freddy's Drop' Blackbird, Soundgarden's Superunknown, Tool 10,000 Days. So a mix of alternative rock, funk, reggae, acoustic, with a sprinkling of jazz and strings. I've looked in to the Cambridge Audio CXA81, which would seem to have rave reviews and tick all my boxes, but maybe I could use something older/used with fewer features, that costs less, and has an overall better sound, or maybe someone on here has a recommendation from the classified section that would be a good match.

Any help and advice would be much appreciated. I'm not in a particular rush, and keen to learn a bit before making a decision.

Many thanks. Richard

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Yamaha MusicCast WXA-50 you may want to look at as replacement amp.

Can be used as the start as stand alone and is multi room capable, built in streaming etc. Can be controlled by app. on phone, pad etc.

Speaker position is really dependant of what and where you put the furniture and stuff, but across the 3.4m may work best?

i think you may misunderstand you HF/LF speaker inputs. They are not for variable inputs, but to allow for bi-wiring or multiple power amplifiers to connect to speakers.

Don't forget cables to connect components and speakers.

Gary

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Super Wammer

A couple of decent options in the classifieds. 

This is a streamer and integrated in 1 box. For when you add other rooms there's no need for a full system as you can add the BlueSound Pulse speakers or soundbar, and all run from an app on computer/phone. 

Then there's the straight forward integrated amp like these, thought you would need a separate streamer. 

Or a sweet Valve integrated

And here's your streamer

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Wow! 

Thanks all for quick and detailed replies. I've had generally slow/short responses on other audio forums so this is a pleasant surprise.

18 hours ago, H20gna said:

Speaker position is really dependant of what and where you put the furniture and stuff, but across the 3.4m may work best?

That's a relief! I was hoping to keep them on one of the longer sides as there's power and less direct sunlight in those spots.

18 hours ago, Lurch said:

A couple of decent options in the classifieds. 

Thanks for taking the time to recommend those. I should have mentioned that I live in West Cornwall, so a lot of the time collection would be impossible, and I'd need a postage option or something nearby (Devon/Cornwall ideally). There's certainly some brilliant equipment on there though. Picking something is tricky! As a bass player, I'm immediately drawn to the valves in the hefty Trilogy Vti, but it's miles away and there's no remote, so maybe a bit impractical. The other amps all have their strong points! I'm leaning towards something with clean power and musicality at a range of volumes, that has ample headroom to effortlessly power the big Jamo's. I'm probably happy to use a separate streamer as the hardware/software/apps/support seems very fluid at present, with technology in that area progressing rapidly. I'd be happier knowing I had an excellent fundamental sound, that had sufficient connections to attach a modern streamer etc that can be replaced if technology moves on. 

19 hours ago, H20gna said:

i think you may misunderstand you HF/LF speaker inputs. They are not for variable inputs, but to allow for bi-wiring or multiple power amplifiers to connect to speakers.

Sorry this is my poor use/knowledge of correct hifi terminology.. I do understand bi-wiring for LF/HF. My bass guitar rig was a stereo-output Ovation Magnum 1 running a bi-amped valve pre-amplification setup, split for each pickup before blending post-EQ and splitting by frequency band and effectively "bi-wired" to separate LF/HF amps/cabs. Eventually I got sick of the weight and complexity of the setup and moved to a modern class-D amp and single lightweight cab. However, I like the idea of a bi-wired hifi setup, but given that many top-end amps here seem to offer only full-range speaker outputs, I get the impression that bi-wired systems are not considered essential for very good sound. Again, I'm happy to be better informed on the topic of bi-wired hifi!

All help and advice so far much appreciated! Any more tips on selecting an amp would be great!

Many thanks, Richard

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Super Wammer

Don't worry about the number of speaker posts on an amp. Simply run a single length and either configure the termination plugs/spades as 2:4 (normal 2 amp end & 4 at speaker end) or else make up/buy a pair of jumpers to replace the cheapo supplied metal links. 

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Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, Rdw said:

Wow! 

Thanks all for quick and detailed replies. I've had generally slow/short responses on other audio forums so this is a pleasant surprise.

That's a relief! I was hoping to keep them on one of the longer sides as there's power and less direct sunlight in those spots.

Thanks for taking the time to recommend those. I should have mentioned that I live in West Cornwall, so a lot of the time collection would be impossible, and I'd need a postage option or something nearby (Devon/Cornwall ideally). There's certainly some brilliant equipment on there though. Picking something is tricky! As a bass player, I'm immediately drawn to the valves in the hefty Trilogy Vti, but it's miles away and there's no remote, so maybe a bit impractical. The other amps all have their strong points! I'm leaning towards something with clean power and musicality at a range of volumes, that has ample headroom to effortlessly power the big Jamo's. I'm probably happy to use a separate streamer as the hardware/software/apps/support seems very fluid at present, with technology in that area progressing rapidly. I'd be happier knowing I had an excellent fundamental sound, that had sufficient connections to attach a modern streamer etc that can be replaced if technology moves on. 

Sorry this is my poor use/knowledge of correct hifi terminology.. I do understand bi-wiring for LF/HF. My bass guitar rig was a stereo-output Ovation Magnum 1 running a bi-amped valve pre-amplification setup, split for each pickup before blending post-EQ and splitting by frequency band and effectively "bi-wired" to separate LF/HF amps/cabs. Eventually I got sick of the weight and complexity of the setup and moved to a modern class-D amp and single lightweight cab. However, I like the idea of a bi-wired hifi setup, but given that many top-end amps here seem to offer only full-range speaker outputs, I get the impression that bi-wired systems are not considered essential for very good sound. Again, I'm happy to be better informed on the topic of bi-wired hifi!

All help and advice so far much appreciated! Any more tips on selecting an amp would be great!

Many thanks, Richard

I think we need to explore the LF/HF speaker terminals on the speaker themselves and the amplifier speaker output terminals.

Lets go amplifier outputs first. There may be 2LH (+& -)2RH (+&-) terminal sets they’re all full range, I don’t know of any amplifiers that have crossovers built in that separate LF/HF frequencies, but since I don’t have knowledge of all amplifiers, it’s possible. Most amplifiers have 1LH & 1RH terminal set.

So speaker terminals may have LF&HF sets or just one +&- . They both feed into a speaker crossover, this is the frequency divider that before you have used your Equaliser to do. With just one set of speaker terminals the crossover then divides HF/LF to the respective speaker bass/tweeter components. When there are LF/HF speaker sets the crossover is physically split so that the LF/HF components can be fed individually. If you only have one speaker feed to each speaker the jumper connection feeds both sections of the crossover.

Hope this makes sense.

Gary

Edited by H20gna

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1 hour ago, H20gna said:

I think we need to explore the LF/HF speaker terminals on the speaker themselves and the amplifier speaker output terminals.

Lets go amplifier outputs first. There may be 2LH (+& -)2RH (+&-) terminal sets they’re all full range, I don’t know of any amplifiers that have crossovers built in that separate LF/HF frequencies, but since I don’t have knowledge of all amplifiers, it’s possible. Most amplifiers have 1LH & 1RH terminal set.

So speaker terminals may have LF&HF sets or just one +&- . They both feed into a speaker crossover, this is the frequency divider that before you have used your Equaliser to do. With just one set of speaker terminals the crossover then divides HF/LF to the respective speaker bass/tweeter components. When there are LF/HF speaker sets the crossover is physically split so that the LF/HF components can be fed individually. If you only have one speaker feed to each speaker the jumper connection feeds both sections of the crossover.

Hope this makes sense.

Gary

Now I’ve eaten I’ll continue.

So bi-wiring usually means two cable pairs per speaker (maybe different composition or size) from common LH or RH amp output.

Now bi-amping can also be used, pre-amp feeding two power amps. Each power amp feeds either HF or LF on both speakers.

Then we can Monobloc the power amps, each amp feeding either speaker LH or RH (+&-) speaker terminals.

Gary

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54 minutes ago, H20gna said:

I think we need to explore the LF/HF speaker terminals on the speaker themselves and the amplifier speaker output terminals.

Gary thanks for the explanation! That is very different to my bass guitar setup and a totally different concept, many thanks for explaining! It's a fascinating little bit of physics, and I have plenty of speaker cable to play with so I'm keen to give it a try. 

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