newlash09

ATC 75-150S best mid range driver .probably best in the world

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1 minute ago, steve 57 said:

It's easy to put people off Keith, but you only have to look on our DIY section at the klipsch build to see it's not that complicated for a novice, using 'bought' horns would have made the process  simpler still.

Speakers are not rocket science and the best way to understand them is to build, then play/fine tune them.

The drivers are the expensive parts, and are easily reused in the next cabinets.. or sold on for better ones?

Building diy speakers is an investment in your own skill in my view, once you have made that investment, you may be happy with what you've made, or be inspired to try better things..

Theres no such thing as an 'ultimate' midrange driver by the way...

Wasn’t trying to put people off Steve.....I felt that an almost plug/play approach was being suggested.   

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1 hour ago, MF 1000 said:

You need a seriously strong/braced cab to control the 15” Volt radial driver .....I’m using the 18” radials with 30mm  mdf  walls that will be clad with 18mm ply too 

Have you pictures?

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Long thread on the two year journey with these driver ...last pages show the new cabinet build

Edited by MF 1000
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2 hours ago, steve 57 said:

It's easy to put people off Keith, but you only have to look on our DIY section at the klipsch build to see it's not that complicated for a novice, using 'bought' horns would have made the process  simpler still.

Speakers are not rocket science and the best way to understand them is to build, then play/fine tune them.

The drivers are the expensive parts, and are easily reused in the next cabinets.. or sold on for better ones?

Building diy speakers is an investment in your own skill in my view, once you have made that investment, you may be happy with what you've made, or be inspired to try better things..

Theres no such thing as an 'ultimate' midrange driver by the way...

Threads like this always make me tempted to give speaker building a try, particularly actually in regards to being able to choose to use a mid-range driver like those being discussed actually, whilst limiting the overall speaker size as I'd be using the result in combination with a sub. However, the driver cost alone would be significant and my fear is always that I'd end up spending lots of money that ultimately didn't pan out, and not being able to recoup much of the cost by selling the components. Oh, and the concern of how to make the speakers actually look presentable.

I'm sure if I actually managed to make some speakers that sounded decent that it would be immensely satisfying though.

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21 minutes ago, MartinC said:

Threads like this always make me tempted to give speaker building a try, particularly actually in regards to being able to choose to use a mid-range driver like those being discussed actually, whilst limiting the overall speaker size as I'd be using the result in combination with a sub. However, the driver cost alone would be significant and my fear is always that I'd end up spending lots of money that ultimately didn't pan out, and not being able to recoup much of the cost by selling the components. Oh, and the concern of how to make the speakers actually look presentable.

I'm sure if I actually managed to make some speakers that sounded decent that it would be immensely satisfying though.

When I listened to the k100s with my old 360 I was totally blown away by the sound quality.

When you build your own speakers I believe you get much better sound quality pound for pound and quality parts as your cutting out all the dealer margins etc 

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2 hours ago, MF 1000 said:

Wasn’t trying to put people off Steve.....I felt that an almost plug/play approach was being suggested.   

Using compression drivers and horns is almost plug and play.

On your first stab you may not have the speaker fully optimised.

But when going DIY, especially if you buy the drivers and horns at below original retail price, it's easy enough to get a speaker that sounds better than what you'd get if you went to your local dealer and bought off them for a similar price or for double the price.

It's also as easy as falling off a log, when using reasonable quality high efficiency drivers to get a speaker that's at least as good as ATC 75-150s in the midrange.

There certainly is no need nor any particular siginificant benefit to be had by going down the kit route when creating your own DIY high efficiency speakers.

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Super Wammer

I was giving some thought to this statement 

"ATC 75-150S best mid range driver .probably best in the world" and concluded that the last time I saw a similar claim was "the best lager in the world, probably"  and as we all know - it is not the best lager in the world and even if it was anyone with any taste buds realises that Lager tastes like gnats pee ... so perhaps it is not a good claim to say anything is "probably the best in the world"

In the final summation I guess what we want is the best sound in the world which is of course an individual choice (we all have our own idea of what sounds right) .. but if we are having a get together for a discussion on this where there will be copious amounts of real ale then I am in :pint: 

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36 minutes ago, Bokke said:

When I listened to the k100s with my old 360 I was totally blown away by the sound quality.

When you build your own speakers I believe you get much better sound quality pound for pound and quality parts as your cutting out all the dealer margins etc 

Component costs of any speaker will obviously be a fraction of the retail price. However, amongst other things, you are paying for somebody hopefully more experienced to go through the design and prototyping stage to reach a good design. Could I be confident that my first DIY effort would be a great success? Probably not I suspect!

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It’s a bit of a nuisance that the 3” domed midrange driver is 16 ohms.  The radial bass drivers are superb .....I’m fortunate to have the 18” versions which literally blow away anything I’ve heard but need a large vol well constructed cab to perform at their best.

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On 14/11/2020 at 08:31, Non-Smoking Man said:

My vote (out of the above offerings) would be the Vitavox S2 (2") compression driver. I have heard an original S2 with recent upgrades in a multiway horn system covering roughly 500Hz to 5Khz. Also I heard that S2 in a head to head with the BMS 4592 in the same horn. Then there was the 'Definitive' system in a posh cafe in central London which would have the recent S2 in a big hybrid horn system with the Kuzma front end and valve amplification (Canary?) - I paid that a visit a year or so ago.

My reservation about the associated horn or waveguide in Thetiminator link (see above) is that the CN157 clone does not have a tractrix profile and therefore cannot produce the desired spherical wavefront. This will cause reflection (or refraction) problems at the mouth where the wavefront meets the air. Ideally the mouth should be spherical at these frequencies and have a developed 'roundover' to 180% to reduce distortion. This eliminates the 'megaphone' effect that dogged previous designs and which still lingers in the minds of those who have not heard a modern, thought-through system. Google 'Edgarhorn' (Bruce Edgar) Volvotreter.

The JBL, Tad, and Goto brands are names that are associated with high end horn drivers and some of these will have beryllium diaphrams - the lightest usable metal for the purpose. But Be is more normally found up the frequency range. The JBL 2435Be from the JBL Vertec system being a case in point (1.5" compression driver). That is commonly crossed over at 9Khz.

Jack

Jbl used the 2435Be all the way out to 18khz in the Vertec, the 9khz crossover in the 9800 is to maintain pattern control with the 045be super tweeter, personal experience in SAM1 Array horns 750 flat to 15khz then naturally rolled off sounds better than trying to eq out to 18khz.

The JBL 2206 bass mid has very low distortion figures even at 110 dB but needs crossing below 1500hz.

Edited by cooky1257

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That's interesting Frank - I own a pair of the 2435Be and I followed the previous owner (Speedysteve) in only going to 9-`10KHz. Steve ran a Raal Lazy Ribbon over the top and i had a variety of tweeters (Beyma 1", Triangle tweeters from domestic range, and Fountain ribbons. Thanks.

Jack

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