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Linn AV 5150 Subwoofer


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10 minutes ago, MartinC said:

If you update your profile people could see where you live :).

True. I'll get that done.

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5 hours ago, akamatsu said:

A mono half of an AV5105 would be 100 watts. I think the 5150 sports more power than that.

You're correct. It's rated at 200 watts. I think it's an adapted AV5105.

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1 hour ago, Clarets said:

You're correct. It's rated at 200 watts. I think it's an adapted AV5105.

Just 200 Watts? I'm surprised. My Sizmik is 500 W. But that would be a different technology. It could easily be the same board as the AV5105, which was also most likely used in other amps as well. You could very well be right about that.

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  • 1 month later...

Hi Simon,

Yes I am. I've had many things going on lately and shelved the 5150 until I have the time to look at it again. 

It is a very nice unit and I appreciate any insight you can send my way. 

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  • 1 month later...
On 15/03/2021 at 01:10, mabrow said:

Hi Simon,

Yes I am. I've had many things going on lately and shelved the 5150 until I have the time to look at it again. 

It is a very nice unit and I appreciate any insight you can send my way. 

Owning an idle 5150 myself, I'd be happy if you share your insights here. I'm always eager to learn.

Before anyone asks, why my 5150 is idle: I was quite happy with it and my AV5140s in my old house, 15 yrs ago. Then we moved to another city and into a smaller house. I also Exakted my system about this time, and had no funds for an Exaktbox Sub - if it existed at all in those days.

I lent an ExaktboxSub from my dealer, recently. Tried to get the sub up and running, and integrated into SOv2, as my room has awful resonance. I partly succeeded, but was not happy with the result, soundwise. There was more low frequency, but the sub appeared "slower" then the rest of the system, which led to an imbalance.

I don't want to steal this thread, but I do wonder if recapping the sub might help to speed it up? 

Yes, the cherry finish is awesome. This is why my idle sub is still tolerated as a piece of furniture in this living room 😉

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I plan to look again at the 5150 sometime this month. When my old brain remembers there is a 8 hour time difference between TX. and the UK, I will call Simon at Grammo and pick his brain.

I sent the Sub amp and crossover boards to a "recommended" Tx. LINN repair shop where they replaced multiple caps/resistors on the amp board. The shop said the crossover board needed nothing. Boards were shipped back, I installed them and still Nada. When the repair shop was informed that the Sub still did not work the shop was extremely condescending and arrogant. I now do not trust this shop and will never send the boards back to them or recommend them to anyone. Total Jerks!!!

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If the electronics have been checked out and proclaimed to be OK, then that only leaves the drive units and I wonder if one or both of the bass units has burnt out? Any way of testing them?

Just a thought

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Hi Moomintroll,

I'm no electric guru by any means however by drive units you referring to the drivers/woofers? I had looked online for testing speakers. Did the simple 9 volt battery test and both drivers seemed to react as they should but is that an accurate way to test/gauge them? I sure don't know...real rookie here.

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Very strange indeed. "Assuming" the Amp and crossover boards are good that should just leave the compensation board and transformer/toroidal as question marks.

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