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How long does it take you to set up SOv2?


How long does it take you to set up SOv2?  

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2 hours ago, HansBertil said:

I think you are right about that there is no need for entering the ideal position. I think the algorithm then uses the practical position as the ideal one. The result will maybe not be as good as if the ideal positions are entered in the first place but there is always a possibility for the user to alter the algorithm result. 

Speaker positioning isn't just about theoretical ideals, personal preference plays a part here as well don't forget.

I think I said words to this effect in the wish list for SOv3 - I'd like to see a Linn recommended ideal position, think that would be a great starting point for speaker placement.

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@Amakatsu

“I have a pretty good idea how I would handle this room. I would centre the speakers around the shallow angle in the wall behind them, equidistant from each speaker to the back walls. Then move the listening position accordingly so that you are centred between the speakers. Space Optimisation can negate the effects of this room. Of course, a seemingly better solution would be to move the speakers so that the south wall is the front wall. But that may not be practical for you.”

 

Thanks for your suggestion. I will try a virtual placement (ideal location) as suggested. A real placement there is not possible, also not at the south wall.

 

@MikC

“The ‘speakers are pointing the wrong way! 😁

 

I wonder if this really important. SO is mostly effecting low frequencies. Speakers can have their bass driver in front, back, side or bottom. Nice experiment maybe, change an existing SO by turning the direction of the speakers 180 degrees and listen again…..😆

 

@HansBertil

I would have a word with the architect.  

Interesting room plan indeed. But I believe it is manageable with SO2. How does it sound without any SO applied; do you experience any boominess?”

I’ll try to find the architect. But I don’t expect this will be easy due to COVID-19.

I have done many SO experiments, always ending by turning it off. There is no real boominess. Main problem in the room acoustics is that there is modest bass at 35-50 Hz, but direct above this area there is a huge cap.

 

@Phobic

“I may have nightmares about this room layout 

I personally would look at placing the speakers either on the north wall, or the top of the west wall, at least that way you would have a flat rear wall behind the speakers and 1 speaker which has a good side wall. Then move the listening position appropriately.

I'd also give the WASP technique a try to help find the best speaker position, I think this should work even in this shaped room (even if you're not on the north or west wall as above).

last thing I'd do is use virtual tune dem, that way you can move the ideal position around in SO without having to physically move speakers if you need to. But to be honest I think you'll get the speakers pretty close using WASP, once you have them pretty close the last bit is more moving them +/-20cm and sorting out the toe in, not that physically challenging.

Then do SO as per which ever technique you like the sound of best.

I do agree with Johannes, there's a lot of value finding out the ideal positions.

In the past, speakers have been on every possible place. This is after trying the best location considering the practical options. The lack of bass stays. I even tried a good sub, but the room is just eating bass reproduction.😩

 

Thanks for all other suggestions. Tonight at 0.00 hour we are going in a lockdown in the Netherlands for more than 4 weeks, so I will have some time to try different suggestions.

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  • 30 minutes to measure the room and verify
  • 10 minutes to input the data into Space V2
  • 10 minutes (if you're lucky) for Space to crank the data
  • 9 months to fiddle with the result because you're convinced it doesn't sound "quite " right :D
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  • (...and you think I'm joking!)
     
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Did my SOv2 yesterday in approximately 3 hours including re-levelling on one of my M140’s.

I took some papertape to set a grid on the floor. Determined the distance from the backwall first and found the “ideal” position using Donald Fagen’s; I.G.Y. and Steely Dan’s; Jack of Speed.

Next up: Ideal left and right distance with the same tracks and in addition Adele’s; Daydreamer. Dire Straits; when it comes to you, David Gilmour’s; Rattle that lock.

Shoved the speakers where I want them, made the adjustments in SO in 10 minutes. Calculating took 5 minutes. 

I believe I’m 90% there and satisfied, the last couple of cm’s and toe-in will follow during casual listening. Also note that I determine the ideal position in steps of 5cm.

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On 20/12/2020 at 13:30, Ian H said:

9 months to fiddle with the result because you're convinced it doesn't sound "quite " right :D

I suggest that you only ever listen with a glass of some suitable libation in your hand ... :)

David

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31 minutes ago, DavidHB said:

I suggest that you only ever listen with a glass of some suitable libation in your hand ... :)

David

I did!   But "adjusting my hifi" cut no ice with my Alcoholics Anonymous counsellor. :(

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11 minutes ago, Ian H said:

I did!   But "adjusting my hifi" cut no ice with my Alcoholics Anonymous counsellor. :(

That's because you were adjusting it, not listening to it enjoyably, and so the alcohol made you feel depressed rather than warm and fuzzy ... :) 

David

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If you choose concrete for the wall material and push the absorption slider for concrete to +50% is this the same if you choose drywall for wall material with the absorption slider on 0?

or

If you choose drywall for the wall material and push the absorption slide for drywall to -50% is this the same if you choose concrete for wall material with the absorption slide on 0?

or

Does this adjustment overlap and how?

P.S.

It looks like concrete +50% is similar sounding like drywall -50%. Maybe that makes sense if there is no overlap.

Edited by rduras
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24 minutes ago, rduras said:

P.S.

It looks like concrete +50% is similar sounding like drywall -50%. Maybe that makes sense if there is no overlap.

What I find at a quick look at the www the absorption coefficient for concrete is approximately 0.1 and for 1/2” drywall it is 0.29. Adjusting those values 50% up and down they will roughly meet. The figures are however stated at 125 Hz and SO does its job below 80 Hz if I remember correctly. Anyhow it is not unlikely that they are about the same value also below 125 Hz when adjusted.

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I am puzzled with information in SO manual that plaster on brick is classified as drywall and brick wall as concrete.

My all walls are plaster on brick.

Does plaster raise the absorption of the brick walls so much?

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