Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Just now, Pennypacker said:

I did not torque with a special tool but tightened up the lot, things where quite loose here and there.

I did that with Tukans long before I had a torque driver. It did make a rather noticeable difference to just snug them up.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 179
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

After some days now and SOv2 running 🙌🏼 I have the following remarks/observations/scribbles.    IMHO it’s definitely an upgrade, not just a side step or matter of taste. There is however a smal

Well, I've only had the Keltiks up and running for a couple of days but already I'm very impressed. I'm using the same ASH source and AEB-I amplification as @Pennypacker. However, I switched from Nink

I'm not surprised of the interest in Keltiks, but when compared with ninkas and Majik 140, it s what was linns top of the range speaker versus entry level.  I changed Keltik for 242 mk2 nd never reall

Posted Images

4 minutes ago, Pennypacker said:

I did not torque with a special tool but tightened up the lot, things where quite loose here and there.

This has been on my mind too. I can't really see how to gain access to the mid and bass drivers. I'm sure once I have a tool in my hand it will become apparent. That's going to be my job for the weekend.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
13 minutes ago, SnapperMike said:

This has been on my mind too. I can't really see how to gain access to the mid and bass drivers. I'm sure once I have a tool in my hand it will become apparent. That's going to be my job for the weekend.

It took some headscratching and sweat of fear. But this is how it seems to be fastened: 

Both of the rings of the lower and midrange are glued for the driver chassis, pleas note that the lower ring is made from wood. In my case the lower came loose by seeking a loosened corner and the working your way around it.

FE739BE3-CB46-4B7E-A63A-4655D0851F8D.jpeg

B0AA25A4-CD25-49F7-B2D5-451AA8855CDF.jpeg

Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)
7 minutes ago, Pennypacker said:

It took some headscratching and sweat of fear. But this is how it seems to be fastened: 

Both of the rings of the lower and midrange are glued for the driver chassis, pleas note that the lower ring is made from wood. In my case the lower came loose by seeking a loosened corner and the working your way around it.

FE739BE3-CB46-4B7E-A63A-4655D0851F8D.jpeg

B0AA25A4-CD25-49F7-B2D5-451AA8855CDF.jpeg

Thanks @Pennypackerthat's useful information. So then you took the outer bass drive off to gain access to the inner bass? And what glue did you use to reset the casing?

Edited by SnapperMike
Link to post
Share on other sites
2 minutes ago, SnapperMike said:

Thanks @Pennypackerthat's useful information. So then you took the outer bass drive off to gain access to the inner bass?

Yes, you can see that in my post on 7 may on page 7, small tip keep something like a small table close by where you can lay the outer driver on. The wires on that one are quite short. 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)
3 minutes ago, Pennypacker said:

Yes, you can see that in my post on 7 may on page 7, small tip keep something like a small table close by where you can lay the outer driver on. The wires on that one are quite short. 

Thanks @Pennypacker What glue did you use to reset the casing? I presume a contact adhesive that won't become solid and permanent is what's needed?

Edited by SnapperMike
Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)
35 minutes ago, SnapperMike said:

Thanks @Pennypacker What glue did you use to reset the casing? I presume a contact adhesive that won't become solid and permanent is what's needed?

The double adhesive tape that was on it already was still sticky enough for me. So I did not add anything.

Edited by Pennypacker
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, akamatsu said:

I did that with Tukans long before I had a torque driver. It did make a rather noticeable difference to just snug them up.

Michael, I appreciate it's a long since you last listened to Keltiks. What I had wondered is how the Keltiks compare to your Akubariks? They are both Isobarik in their bass department. Not that I'm ever going to be in the market for Akubariks with my AEB-I and it's 8 channels of amplification rather than the required 10, but I just wondered. 

Mike.

Edited by SnapperMike
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
33 minutes ago, SnapperMike said:

Michael, I appreciate it's a long since you last listened to Keltiks. What I had wondered is how the Keltiks compare to your Akubariks? They are both Isobarik in their bass department. Not that I'm ever going to be in the market for Akubariks with my AEB-I and it's 8 channels of amplification rather than the required 10, but I just wondered. 

Mike.

I used to listen to Keltiks driven by Klouts, Karin, and LP12 regularly at a friend's house. It sounded wonderful, back in the 1990s. To compare them to Akubariks driven by AEDSM and Klimax LP12 I would have to use some of my imagination. As enjoyable as the Keltiks system was, I really don't think there is much comparison. Now Klimax LP12, AEDSM, AEB-i into Keltiks would move things in the right direction, me thinks.

Sorry I'm not much help.

Cheers,

Michael

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
11 minutes ago, akamatsu said:

I used to listen to Keltiks driven by Klouts, Karin, and LP12 regularly at a friend's house. It sounded wonderful, back in the 1990s. To compare them to Akubariks driven by AEDSM and Klimax LP12 I would have to use some of my imagination. As enjoyable as the Keltiks system was, I really don't think there is much comparison. Now Klimax LP12, AEDSM, AEB-i into Keltiks would move things in the right direction, me thinks.

Sorry I'm not much help.

Cheers,

Michael

Thanks Michael. I asked because this recent change to Keltiks has been revelatory for me. That's not to say I won't change again once I listen to a speaker with the 3K array. What I'm now getting with the Keltiks is a very relaxed, sophisticated and wholesome presentation of the music which I like. It's not aggressive nor dynamic but I'm fine with that. I must, at some stage get a pair of loudspeakers with the 3k arrays just to compare to see what I prefer. With my AEB-I and it's 8 channels that only leaves the 212's or Akudoriks.

Mike.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
4 minutes ago, SnapperMike said:

Thanks Michael. I asked because this recent change to Keltiks has been revelatory for me. That's not to say I won't change again once I listen to a speaker with the 3K array. What I'm now getting with the Keltiks is a very relaxed, sophisticated and wholesome presentation of the music which I like. It's not aggressive nor dynamic but I'm fine with that. I must, at some stage get a pair of loudspeakers with the 3k arrays just to compare to see what I prefer. With my AEB-I and it's 8 channels that only leaves the 212's or Akudoriks.

Mike.

Get the Akudoriks. They would pair nicely with your sub-woofer. Then, when Organik makes it to the Akudoriks, you could get the Organik stands and a Klimax System Hub. :)

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

One thing I forgot to mention is how good these 'new' Keltik speakers are to play at low volume levels.

Sometimes with the Ninkas I wanted to increase the volume to get the sound I wanted. With the Keltiks the bass is forever present. I can happily listen at lower volume levels and get the same effect. My neighbours will be happy!

Edited by SnapperMike
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
2 minutes ago, akamatsu said:

Get the Akudoriks. They would pair nicely with your sub-woofer. Then, when Organik makes it to the Akudoriks, you could get the Organik stands and a Klimax System Hub. :)

We're on the same page here Michael!

Thanks for your valued input.

Mike.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
1 minute ago, SnapperMike said:

We're on the same page here Michael!

Thanks for your valued input.

Mike.

And what a wonderfully musical page it is! Cheers my friend! :)

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

The more I read this thread the more I feel I should have opted for keltiks instead of the 242’s.

Don’t get me wrong. I Just spent an hour listening to my kabers and katans and decided i’ll never sell the kabers but last week I thought I should sell the Kan II’s instead of the katans. All those 3 speakers with the katans being at the bottom of the list sound more warm and romantic than clinical. Then I come back to my 242’s and just love the presence, the bass and the detail. If I could just get them to be a bit warmer id be a happy camper but I think that’s the main difference between the old and new linn sound. I maybe wrong but that’s what I feel.

In hearing the older speakers I do feel that a standpoint can’t replace a floor stander. So my advice is to hear the akudoriks before you sell the keltiks and if you really like/love the 3k sound then you’re probably going to need a full system revamp and get the akubariks with 10 channels

PS - the gentleman who bought my ninkas and my c5100 is coming over today to hear the aktiv 242’s. I’ll let you know his thoughts between the regular tweeter and 3k arrays as soon as i can. I’m curious what he will say.

Adsm/1 >> Akurate 4200/3200/3200 >> Aktiv Akurate 242 (mark 1) Silvers/K400

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...