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Just bought 2 packs of these off EBay for my SCM40s, which are sitting on parquet flooring. I’m really impressed and they’re a really cheap option to see if/how they make a difference.

Bass seems to be cleaner. The rubber o-rings kinda float the speaker on the floor. Anyone else tried something similar?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4pcs-Speaker-Isolation-Feet-Pad-Stand-For-CD-Spikes-Turntable-Radio-Amp-HiFi-/233874959617?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286
 

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Have you tried repositioning your ATCs? For reasons I won't go into, I'd recommend that the front baffles should be half your ceiling height from the back wall. Cost nothing but a little time.

The other thing I'd recommend is Mana stands for your speakers. Cleans up bass resonances.

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Just bought 2 packs of these off EBay for my SCM40s, which are sitting on parquet flooring. I’m really impressed and they’re a really cheap option to see if/how they make a difference.
Bass seems to be cleaner. The rubber o-rings kinda float the speaker on the floor. Anyone else tried something similar?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4pcs-Speaker-Isolation-Feet-Pad-Stand-For-CD-Spikes-Turntable-Radio-Amp-HiFi-/233874959617?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286
 
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My speaker spikes sit on some Atacama feet which have a rubber sole. These then rest on some rubber washing machine feet. These then sit on a granite tile.

Very effective - worth a try for not much layout ....

- more bass, tuneful bass
- better imaging
- clearer midrange
- wider soundstage

Sent from my Mi Note 10 using Tapatalk

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3 hours ago, Bodgit said:

Just bought 2 packs of these off EBay for my SCM40s, which are sitting on parquet flooring. I’m really impressed and they’re a really cheap option to see if/how they make a difference.

Bass seems to be cleaner. The rubber o-rings kinda float the speaker on the floor. Anyone else tried something similar?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4pcs-Speaker-Isolation-Feet-Pad-Stand-For-CD-Spikes-Turntable-Radio-Amp-HiFi-/233874959617?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286
 

Those feet don't appear to be designed for speakers.  They are very small and the text mentions "CD Player, Speaker, Turntable, Amplifier, etc" - no mention of speakers.

There's no max weight quoted but these small feet would appear to be suitable for up to 10 Kg per set of 4.

These ones say they are good for speakers and include Sorbothane as the absorbant material but are still only recommended for 13.5Kg per set - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-x-SORBOTHANE-ALUMINIUM-isolating-feet-IF30-10-S3AL-O/303485799628?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

I currently have 2 pair of Avantgarde Duo speakers and one pair (70Kg) has IsoAcoustic Gaia II feet but they are at maximum weight.  The sound improvement (on similar floors to yours) is very good.  The bass is not bigger but it's certainly better in detail.

My newer Duos (95 Kg) are certainly too heavy for Gaia IIs so I could get Gaia Is but this adds to height and I want to reduce height.   I'm surently using bFly Audio Tallis Pro L feet -  https://www.bflyaudio.uk/store/p5/TALISPRO.html.  - which are much lower than Gaias and good for weights up to 400Kg per set although the smaller M version may support your speaker as they are good for up to 50Kg

Note that there's also the non-Pro versions of these Talis feet at much lower cost (available via Ebay) that omit the Sorbothane pad inside the cup.  In all these feet, one big advantage over Gaias is that they allow the speakers to slide much more easily on wood floors. 

So far I'm unconvinced about these Talis feet but will try to compare them with Gaia Is if I can get a loan set, or RevOpod feet that I hear good things about.  All much more costly than the ones you've found!

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Thanks all for your comments.

@Blzebub repositioning like you say is not realistic, that's 4' out from the back wall and would put them way too far out into the room. they're currently 2' out. I have toed the speakers in so they're very nearly facing the centre of the sofa and that's helped.

@Kubs For some time I had the Mk 1s on their spikes sitting on granite chopping boards, I'm not sure if that made things better, I think not. But it would be worth trying with these feet on the granite, I have 9 or 10 of those chopping boards lying around!

@hearhere it was the gaias that put me onto finding these little feet, the Gaias are £400 for two sets and I struggle with that kind of outlay. These feet are small but the construction is a rubber o-ring embedded in the aluminium so it can't easily compress and would therefore take a lot of weight. Its going to be a lot harder than sorbothane and not give the same cushioning, just these are as cheap as chips. I don't see how a sorbothane cushion wit hheavy speakers is going to work as it just compresses too easily. The Talis feet are around £200 a set too...just way to expensive.

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1 hour ago, Bodgit said:

Thanks all for your comments.

@Blzebub repositioning like you say is not realistic, that's 4' out from the back wall and would put them way too far out into the room. they're currently 2' out. I have toed the speakers in so they're very nearly facing the centre of the sofa and that's helped.

@Kubs For some time I had the Mk 1s on their spikes sitting on granite chopping boards, I'm not sure if that made things better, I think not. But it would be worth trying with these feet on the granite, I have 9 or 10 of those chopping boards lying around!

@hearhere it was the gaias that put me onto finding these little feet, the Gaias are £400 for two sets and I struggle with that kind of outlay. These feet are small but the construction is a rubber o-ring embedded in the aluminium so it can't easily compress and would therefore take a lot of weight. Its going to be a lot harder than sorbothane and not give the same cushioning, just these are as cheap as chips. I don't see how a sorbothane cushion wit hheavy speakers is going to work as it just compresses too easily. The Talis feet are around £200 a set too...just way to expensive.

You should be aware that Sorbothane is available in at least 3 hardnesses and it is MUCH more effective than rubber at absorbing vibrations.  It is important that Sorbothane is loaded as recommended if you want effective vibration control and there are planty of relatively inexpensive feet that use Sorbothane eg these - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-x-SORBOTHANE-ALUMINIUM-isolating-feet-IF30-15-S3AL-O/303589542435?hash=item46af58ca23:g:nDoAAOxyCGNTKgcu. 

Click on "See other items" for a range of similar feet (of various weigh limits and sizes) fom the same vendor.

Your ones that use rubber will be less effective although if you are happy with the sound, that's all that matters.

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I'm using the same under my speaker stands, really wish I'd seen the 40mm diameter ones before I purchased the 20's. I have not compared them against anything else but I have these on the way to try since the tiled floor where I'm staying at the moment is not perfectly level.  10pcs Soft Transparent Non slip Pads Chair Table Feet Leg Bottom Pads Furniture Sofa Stool Foot Covers Floor Protectors|Furniture Cups| - AliExpress

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I tried svs soundpath feet for subwoofers on my ventrical speakers recently when the quads went pop and was very underwhelmed. Hard to say whether that was asking too much of the speakers as quad- busters, although I think they were better with spikes in cups. 

A bit of a surprise because the sub-woofer works really well with them. 

I may give it another go if I get sort of brave and have a go at modifying the HT boards on the quads cos I'll want to disconnect them from the mains for a week. 

I can't use spikes and cups because I move the speakers every day 😢

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@Bodgit Soundcare Superspikes are superb for loudspeakers on timber floors- good increase in sound quality and make the speakers an absolute doddle to move around, look cool too, but with all things quite expensive but are VFM.:geek:

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1 hour ago, Tarzan said:

@Bodgit Soundcare Superspikes are superb for loudspeakers on timber floors- good increase in sound quality and make the speakers an absolute doddle to move around, look cool too, but with all things quite expensive but are VFM.:geek:

Might give them a go 👍

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Oh yes.  Following a you tube vid I replaced spikes on granite with washing machine rubber ‘anti vib feet’.  Excellent. Not going back. Highly recommended ( and about £12). And yes, better than sorbothane.

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13 hours ago, hearhere said:

Click on "See other items" for a range of similar feet (of various weigh limits and sizes) fom the same vendor

Can't see any weight limits on their other items.

Edited by Nifkin
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This isn't about Speaker Feet per se - but is a quote from Barry Diamont (respected Audio Engineer/Consultant), about vibration and the best way to deal with it, including his homemade solution - so is on topic:

Some people already understand this to a degree as it relates to loudspeakers.  They understand that a loudspeaker won't begin to show what it can do unless it is placed well away from large surfaces like walls.  This means bookshelf speakers must not be placed on a bookshelf but on stands that will keep them off the floor and can be placed away from walls.  It also means old style corner placement is wrong as it will put the speaker near the junction of two walls, possibly near the floor or ceiling as well.  Move them out of the corners and hear them sound "more expensive".  The difference won't be subtle.

Correct speaker placement is a start but only that.  The room itself contributes significantly to the ultimate sound you hear but that's a subject for another article.  Here, we're talking about your components and how to help them achieve their best performance.

I used to believe the designers and manufacturers of a given component gave me everything I needed to achieve maximum performance in that box the component comes in.  I thought all I had to do was put the components on my shelf, connect the appropriate cables and turn them on.  Thanks to some experimentation on my part, I no longer subscribe to this.

What's shakin'?
What I've found is that all of our components are being substantially inhibited from delivering their best because they are subject to external vibrations.  By far, the most sonically and visually degrading are those vibrations in the ground that enter the component via its feet.  These seismic vibrations (the ones very low in frequency and amplitude, so tiny we don't even normally feel them) are creating spurious signals within the sensitive circuitry of your components.  These spurious signals mix with the real music and video signals to distort them, hardening the treble, thinning the bass, muddying the soundstage and annihilating dynamics.  Seismic vibrations add grain to video pictures, ruin color purity and contrast and soften focus.

I'm still having a bit of trouble accepting that the ocean tide or the wind or a truck changing gears 1/4 mile away has such a profound effect on the performance of my audio and video gear.  What I have no trouble with is the results of isolating my gear from these effects.  The performance gains in every parameter I can think of are clear, consistent and repeatable.  Frequency extension into the treble and downward in the bass is improved.  Stereo imaging gets better focused.  The soundstage takes on greater proportions.  Dynamic swings both large and small are more like real life.  Overall, there is a much greater sense of the system getting out of the way, leaving the listener with a considerably increased sense of contact with the recorded event.  The color, contrast, focus and purity of video signals is improved.  None of these changes can be described as subtle, as they are very easy to perceive by all listeners and viewers.  Best of all, the differences between sources (different recordings and different movies) are more easily discerned.  This is important because recordings and movies vary in quality and the ability to perceive qualitative differences speaks of the resolving capabilities of the playback system.

Seismic isolation.  Those two words are the key to knowing what your components can and cannot do.  The benefits extend to loudspeakers as well.  In fact I have yet to find a component that doesn't significantly benefit from seismic isolation.  Some, like source components (for example CD and DVD players) and loudspeakers show the largest improvements but even power strips benefit from seismic isolation.  After all, they too contain electrical signals which are subject to degradation by seismic interference.

How do you achieve seismic isolation?  You have to "float" your components.  Floating is accomplished with the use of simple mechanical low-pass filters.  Mechanical low-pass filter is a fancy way of saying a spring with a resonance frequency in the seismic range.  Every spring has a resonance frequency, which is the number of times it bounces when compressed and released.  If we could float our components and speakers on some type of springs with a resonance frequency of only a few cycles per second or less, we'd be able to prevent the damaging vibrations from entering those components and the gear would be free to perform its best.

Vertical springs aren't enough though.  Vibrations can exist in the horizontal and rotational planes as well.  We need to float the gear both vertically and horizontally.  This is not at all a difficult thing to do and the performance benefits will make you wonder why this isn't much more widely discussed.  More importantly, the benefits will allow you to know the capabilities of your present components.  I guarantee you will be very pleasantly surprised.  In addition, seismic isolation will allow you to judge if a potential component replacement can achieve a meaningful performance improvement.

As awareness of the negative impact vibrations have on component performance increases, so does the opportunity for commerce.  The market is flooded with accessories touted as isolation devices.  There are all sorts of footers (i.e. adjunct feet) from Sorbothane hemispheres and vinyl pods to cones made of various materials.  There are tiny trampolines, so-called magnetic levitation platforms and a host of equipment platform and rack designs all of which claim to isolate your gear from vibrations.  While some of the roller bearing type footers work, most of the other devices merely change the sound by creating a new set of colorations which some listeners confuse with a performance improvement.  These folks ultimately find themselves riding the old merry-go-round again.  Similarly, there are a few platforms and equipment racks which utilize air bearings.  Most of the others on the market merely ensure that your components are not on the floor.  Any of these can be checked very simply.  If they don't bounce at a very low rate, they aren't going to act as mechanical low-pass filters and consequently, they're not going to isolate the components they support from the frequencies that will cause the damage.

There are two simple mechanical low-pass filters you can make in order to achieve seismic isolation in multiple axes, that is, seismic isolation in the vertical, horizontal and rotational planes.  A simple air bearing made from a minimally inflated bicycle tire inner tube will provide seismic isolation in the vertical axis.  Roller bearings will provide it in the horizontal and rotational axes.

After much experimentation, I created my own roller bearing design, Hip Joints© which, partly because of their lower resonant frequency, outperform the commercially available variety.  Similarly, while there are some equipment racks and platforms which utilize air bearings, I created my own design, the Enjoyyourshelf© rack, which features a fully independent suspension for each shelf.  (The world's first piece of furniture with a fully independent suspension!)

Roll your own
In order to provide a means of sampling what seismic isolation can do for your system, what follows are instructions for making your own equipment supports.  Items 3, 6, 7 and 8 pertain to roller bearings.  These can be used without air bearings to provide horizontal and rotational isolation only.  Air bearings can be used to provide vertical isolation only, as in those commercial racks and platforms which use air bearings.  Best results however, will be attained by using a combination of these to achieve multiple-axis seismic isolation.

1. Get yourself a bicycle tire inner tube for about $1.99.  I use 18" inner tubes.  The larger the circle described by the inner tube, the easier it is to balance the gear atop it.

2. Obtain a piece of plywood to use as a platform on top of the inner tube.  I use 1" maple ply measuring 20" by 20".

3. Go to a crafts store and purchase 3 wooden, usually pine, Easter egg holders and some marbles for a total of less than $2.

4. Place the inner tube on your shelf.  Inflate it only enough to hold the component up off the shelf.  Too much air and you won't get the benefits.

5. Place the plywood on top of the inner tube.

6. Place the three Easter egg holders on the plywood platform in the largest equilateral triangle that will fit under the gear you are going to support.  I suggest trying your CD player first, though the benefits will add up as you float your other components as well.

7. Place a marble, or even better, a ½" steel ball bearing, in each of the Easter egg holders.

8. Carefully place your component atop the marbles, so they alone support it, holding it up so its own feet do not make contact with the plywood platform.

You have now constructed, for a cost of approximately $5, a simplified Enjoyyourshelf©.  Of course it can be improved upon for added expense but the point here is to demonstrate and share the concept.  If you like what you hear, you can always take the design further.

Enjoy
Now you know why my best upgrade advice is "Don't buy any new components".  The application of seismic isolation can turn your existing system into a set of "new" components.

Happy Listening!

P.S. While digital devices show some of the greatest performance benefits when seismic isolation techniques are employed, the effects are cumulative and system performance improves as each additional component is "floated".  Your loudspeakers too will show performance improvements, perhaps even more so than your digital devices.

Finally, a caveat:  In my experience so far, there has been only one system that did not show the performance benefits I'm describing.  It turns out that system had two characteristics which must be dealt with first, evidently even higher priorities than vibration isolation:

First, it was connected to a garden variety, el cheapo terminal strip rather than a good AC conditioner.  Second, all equipment cables (line level, speaker and AC) were gathered in a jumble behind the racks.  All three types need to be properly "dressed", to borrow a term from our friends "across the pond" in Great Britain.  That is, they should be separated from each other.

So what I learned from that experience is that "dirty" AC and improper cable routing can obscure even the great benefits provided by vibration isolation.  Only when there is clean AC and proper cable routing has been attended to will the benefits of vibration isolation be evident.
 

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Sorry as I use a stacked set of speakers that are designed and voiced to work hard against a back wall I know that moving them in to the room makes them not sound expensive but bass any and shouty. What I would agree with is using a speaker bookshelf or not designed for free space will suffer if pushed too close to a back wall and doubly suffer if moved in to a corner. 

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