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Could it be Majik

Bianchennero

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i had the same problem with 2 4200 and 212 active. all wrong from the shop. starting problem: internal jumpers. the dealer forgot to put the longer one that "bypassed" the power supply, I resolved problem with 2 external RCA cable from 2nd to 3th channel, one for 4200, this sound problem was obvious, correctly immediately. second problem, much worse because less obvious than the first problem, so I realized it after 6 months because I wasn't satisfied with the sound as it wasn't what I expected and then the dealer told me I had to get used to the new aktiv configuration😂: I opened the speakers and I realized that the internal connection was wrong, they were in active configuration but with the passive filter connected ( in the passive configuration: passive socket with the passive connector, active socket with the active connector; correct active configuration: remove the two plugs, put the passive in the active socket, or vice versa I don't remember and leave the other empty. in the active the shopkeeper had simply exchanged my two connectors).
Unfortunately in Italy I have had some bad experiences with hi-fi shops, I'd like to open a discussion about our experiences in hi-fi shop..only a shop in Cremona city is five stars!
Thank you for your answer, years ago I didn't know this forum.
When I realized it, I didn't want to believe it. I was afraid to turn my system on after reconfiguring it, I was also luky that nothing broke. If something breaks it was definitely my fault...
Anyway, in the end I told with the dealer about the problem and he was embarassed, of course I waited until nobody custemers was in the shop.
In Italy there is ignorance about Linn even on the part of those sell. Years ago in a shop of Milan I asked information on a Majik DS (no DSM) do you know what the shopkeeper told me?
Answer: if you have only a power amplifier you can not use a DS, because no sound, you have to take a preamplifier if you want to enjoy music...I stayed like 😮
 
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Thank you for your answer, years ago I didn't know this forum.
When I realized it, I didn't want to believe it. I was afraid to turn my system on after reconfiguring it, I was also luky that nothing broke. If something breaks it was definitely my fault...
Anyway, in the end I told with the dealer about the problem and he was embarassed, of course I waited until nobody custemers was in the shop.
In Italy there is ignorance about Linn even on the part of those sell. Years ago in a shop of Milan I asked information on a Majik DS (no DSM) do you know what the shopkeeper told me?
Answer: if you have only a power amplifier you can not use a DS, because no sound, you have to take a preamplifier if you want to enjoy music...I stayed like 😮
I had a MDSM/2. I'm thinking the dealer was correct. A DS is only a streamer? It only outputs it's digital signal as analog in the same manner a turntable or tuner does? It doesn't have preamp functions like my DSM did, and thus, no volume control (preamp functionality)? All were questions as I'm uncertain. So if you plugged it into an amp , the volume is not variable. Somebody may be along to correct me.

I'm firmly corrected below, I know nothing.
 
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I had a MDSM/2. I'm thinking the dealer was correct. A DS is only a streamer? It only outputs it's digital signal as analog in the same manner a turntable or tuner does? It doesn't have preamp functions like my DSM did, and thus, no volume control (preamp functionality)? All were questions as I'm uncertain. So if you plugged it into an amp , the volume is not variable. Somebody may be along to correct me.
DSs have internal volume control that can be enabled or disabled. I use our KDS directly into a pair of Solos… I have an LP12 as well, but as that has Urika II, the output plugs directly into an Exakt port on the DS.
 

Bianchennero

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I had a MDSM/2. I'm thinking the dealer was correct. A DS is only a streamer? It only outputs it's digital signal as analog in the same manner a turntable or tuner does? It doesn't have preamp functions like my DSM did, and thus, no volume control (preamp functionality)? All were questions as I'm uncertain. So if you plugged it into an amp , the volume is not variable. Somebody may be along to correct me.
with a DS you can not use a second device like LP or CD but there is a digital volume control like a preamplifier that, if you want, you can deactivated. Years ago Linn told me that preamplifuer in DS or in DSM is better than old Linn's analogic preamplifier.
Linn is also partly to blame, who has never mentioned it clearly in the brochures, unlike other manufacturers such as Cambridge Audio for example, the presencd of a digital volume control and it's strange because I found Linn Majik DS internal preamplifier much, much better than pre in Cambtidge streamer.
La qualità del preamplificatore in un DS è la stessa del DSM la differenza è che con un DS non puoi usare un LP se non hai un pre separato, il rivenditore pensava che il Majik DS fosse come un Majik CD (no pre).this is the know-how in Italy about Linn
 

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with a DS you can not use a second device like LP or CD but there is a digital volume control like a preamplifier that, if you want, you can deactivated. Years ago Linn told me that preamplifuer in DS or in DSM is better than old Linn's analogic preamplifier.
Linn is also partly to blame, who has never mentioned it clearly in the brochures, unlike other manufacturers such as Cambridge Audio for example, the presencd of a digital volume control and it's strange because I found Linn Majik DS internal preamplifier much, much better than pre in Cambtidge streamer.
La qualità del preamplificatore in un DS è la stessa del DSM la differenza è che con un DS non puoi usare un LP se non hai un pre separato, il rivenditore pensava che il Majik DS fosse come un Majik CD (no pre).this is the know-how in Italy about Linn
English: the quality of DS preamplifier is the same of DSM, the difference is with a DS you can not use a second source like a LP if you have not a separated pre, the dealer thinked Majik DS was like a Majik CD (no pre).
 

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English: the quality of DS preamplifier is the same of DSM, the difference is with a DS you can not use a second source like a LP if you have not a separated pre, the dealer thinked Majik DS was like a Majik CD (no pre).
As I said higher, it is possible to use an LP12 with a DS, but it has to have a Urika II fitted so it can connect to an Exakt socket on the DS. This is how I listen to vinyl with a DS but no preamp.
 

Bianchennero

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As I said higher, it is possible to use an LP12 with a DS, but it has to have a Urika II fitted so it can connect to an Exakt socket on the DS. This is how I listen to vinyl with a DS but no preamp.
Very interesting! unfortunately for me LPs are a world unknown to me. I would like to have an LP but I believed was impossible with a DS. I am curious about Urika. (Urika🤔).
Thank you.
 

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Trunkmonkey

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The DSM is running the Bass Drivers and connect with the 6100 via a pair of Audioquest Yukon RCA.
What about moving the super tweeter to the MDSM? I know it's important but you'd be surprised what little sound comes out of it when it's the only drive unit connected.

A passive Akurate 2200/D wasn't enough to control my 140 bass, fed by Klimax LP12, Urika, and Klimax Kontrol. Lejonklou Tundra 2.5 did the job nicely, so perhaps a Klimax Chakra Twin will be enough too but they are a lot of money for a system fronted by a MDSM. Depending on your room size, I'd be more tempted to try 109s as they were signed off by Linn with a 6100 so should work very nicely together. You'd then be free to improve your source without depending on it for 2 channels. Wait until you're happy before selling on the 140s though.
 
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What about moving the super tweeter to the MDSM? I know it's important but you'd be surprised what little sound comes out of it when it's the only drive unit connected.

A passive Akurate 2200/D wasn't enough to control my 140 bass, fed by Klimax LP12, Urika, and Klimax Kontrol. Lejonklou Tundra 2.5 did the job nicely, so perhaps a Klimax Chakra Twin will be enough too but they are a lot of money for a system fronted by a MDSM. Depending on your room size, I'd be more tempted to try 109s as they were signed off by Linn with a 6100 so should work very nicely together. You'd then be free to improve your source without depending on it for 2 channels. Wait until you're happy before selling on the 140s though.
My thought process was the same when I first bought the system and needed to wire it in. The Linn Hi-fi gods however said to put the DSM power on the bass so I did that..
 
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My thought process was the same when I first bought the system and needed to wire it in. The Linn Hi-fi gods however said to put the DSM power on the bass so I did that..
There's only one way to find out what works best for you ;)

Bear in mind that people experience music differently and what works best for one person may not work best for another. My current system has a couple of very minor things that go against the 'norm' but they're important to enable me to forget about the system and enjoy the music. The end result is a tiny bit less tuneful in terms of following individual instruments, but more coherent in terms of following the music as a whole because the timing between musicians is more in sync. It's worth experimenting a little to see what works best for you.
 
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Ray Vardy

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Right, so, can't believe the dramatic change (for the better) thanks to a couple of YouTube Videos...



And



Don't get me wrong, I still have a problem with the bass but here and now SO switched off until I am 💯 certain speakers are in the best position that my room and sitting position will allow.

Then its a proper measure and delve in to room modes, after which, back to space Op (news is they are developing it further so that it can be more accurate, here I assume less reliance therefore will be placed on the 'slider'
 

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Hey, no, I just want to hear the music, less of the room. I do like bass but from the hifi not the room 🤔

I've now stuck the bungs in the speaker port..😬
I'm still deep in the tunedem, just to find the ideal position, without SPACE. I have been having fun experimenting with my bungs. I've decided to tunedem without them (for now). I have a sub, so when the sub is on, the bungs do something interesting. I'm not ready to comment on them yet. I've got a lot of work to do dealing with the speaker/room situation before I'm going to test the bungs seriously. They are fun though.
 

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I'm still deep in the tunedem, just to find the ideal position, without SPACE. I have been having fun experimenting with my bungs. I've decided to tunedem without them (for now). I have a sub, so when the sub is on, the bungs do something interesting. I'm not ready to comment on them yet. I've got a lot of work to do dealing with the speaker/room situation before I'm going to test the bungs seriously. They are fun though.
Interesting, never considered a sub, and won't, I not until I can get a standard stereo speaker pair under control.
 

Jail4CEOs2

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I suspect it'll take me a month of not diligent work to find the sweet spot. I think I said above, but definitely elsewhere, a thorough tunedem teaches you a lot about your system. Be patient. Work a few centimeters with the test tracks in a session, then step away and just listen to the system for a few days, then do a few more centimetres.

I was able to use my standard test tracks, mostly A Case of You, Diana Krall, Live in Paris, to help a complete novice female to clearly perceive significant differences in moves of a centimeter. Then to be able to understand how these differences were moving toward a more cohesive lifelike sound, even though it was already jaw droppingly awe inspiring.

The first time I did tunedem I had no idea what I was doing, but over time I've gotten pretty good at it. There was a time before Dirac and SPACE when positioning was all we had.

Sad, I did a serious search and I can't find the actual rated frequency specs for your speakers versus mine. The Stereophile review says yours produce useful information down to 32 Hz, but are rated 55hz Aktiv. Mine are rated below that I think. All that is to say, a sub will help you getting that last octave. It also does special things for the sound field in general. I wouldn't live without one now.
 
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I had my M140s bunged and with the 2dB cut in the crossover in a 8x4 meter living room on the long wall with approximately 25 centimeters between the wall and port. It took care of my problem but created a lot of others..
Space Optimization saved the day as it did a couple of other times.

SO is the biggest upgrade Linn gave IMHO and free of charge. I can believe that some systems won’t benefit as much an others, especially in bigger listening rooms. It’s hard for me comprehend that bunging is chosen over SO.

For comparison, I had M140 and Keltik, both Exakt with SOv2 on basically default SOv2 settings in the 8x4 room. After I moved to a smaller room (8x3.4 meter) I had the former speakers and Kudos super 20, all with SOv2 with good results, even stronger statement: SO was a (first world) need.
 
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Ray Vardy

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I suspect it'll take me a month of not diligent work to find the sweet spot. I think I said above, but definitely elsewhere, a thorough tunedem teaches you a lot about your system. Be patient. Work a few centimeters with the test tracks in a session, then step away and just listen to the system for a few days, then do a few more centimetres.

I was able to use my standard test tracks, mostly A Case of You, Diana Krall, Live in Paris, to help a complete novice female to clearly perceive significant differences in moves of a centimeter. Then to be able to understand how these differences were moving toward a more cohesive lifelike sound, even though it was already jaw droppingly awe inspiring.

The first time I did tunedem I had no idea what I was doing, but over time I've gotten pretty good at it. There was a time before Dirac and SPACE when positioning was all we had.

Sad, I did a serious search and I can't find the actual rated frequency specs for your speakers versus mine. The Stereophile review says yours produce useful information down to 32 Hz, but are rated 55hz Aktiv. Mine are rated below that I think. All that is to say, a sub will help you getting that last octave. It also does special things for the sound field in general. I wouldn't live without one now.
They seem to do a deep dive on the M140 here

https://www.stereophile.com/content/linn-majik-140-loudspeaker-measurements

Screenshot also from the manual.

I would certainly be prepared to sacrifice below 55hz to have good control of everything above.
 

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