Evolution of my T+A xovers Part II

hearingisbelieving

Wammer
Wammer
May 10, 2011
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Bendorf, Germany
AKA
Chris
HiFi Trade?
  1. No
So it's reasonably well know round these parts that I like to dick about with my kit and my speakers are no exception. Luckily for me my speakers still work in spite of all my efforts:p

The crossovers have undergone serious modification/fooification including upgrading all the components as can be seen in my thread here:

http://www.hifiwigwam.com/showthread.php?82561-The-evolution-of-my-T-A-speakers-crossovers

However, not happy with leaving it well alone(even though I was chuffed with the results), the next logical step for me was to convert them to external xovers. I wanted to do this to remove them from the vibrations of the cabinet and also allow me easier access to mod them in the future. So after buying the necessary bits and bobs (lots more foo) I finally managed to get round to it and I'm really pleased with the results.

They aint pretty - they are mounted roughly on some chipboard while I start to plan the design of the housing I will eventually mount them in - I just wanted to make a start and now they are out of the cabinets they will be easier to measure up for(and make further mods:nuts:).

Not all the work was foo related - while the cabainets were empty I took the opportunity to line every internal surface with 3mm sheets of bitumen damping. It has added a lot of mass to each cabinet and hopefully reduced the cabinet vibration.

nmkp.jpg


yb2z.jpg


yb2z.jpg


You may spot that the orientation of the inductors has now been corrected - thanks Keith!

The crossover is all point-to point wired, currently using solid silver wire. However, it's a bitch to work with and has a habit of snapping so I will also eventually rewire them completely with the conductors from some JAS-AUDIO, Zion SP3 speaker cable. Apparently its specs are: Each individual conductor is teflon insulated and made up of 50 strands of 0.003mm 5N (99.99997% purity) continuous cast silver. I have now used this stuff to rewire the speakers internally and it is also connecting the xovers to the binding posts of the speakers).

Binding posts and banana plugs are all Audio Nore silver plated jobies.

BTW. sorry Pete no croc leads in sight:doh:

My system now sound better than ever:eek:j:

 

hearingisbelieving

Wammer
Wammer
May 10, 2011
5,684
240
108
Bendorf, Germany
AKA
Chris
HiFi Trade?
  1. No
Thanks Steve. Just a temp fix but will make the rest of it much easier now.

BTW, if anyone has any tips or suggestions for building the actual enclosures my crossovers will sit in then please speak up.

SO far I am liking this idea of a vertical orientation, mounted on a base, perpex lid and all the connections hidden at the rear.

v4wg.jpg


(looks pretty decent - shame after all that work they also fucked up the inductor placement/orientation lol)

For the main box I would use oak rather than a painted black box to match my speakers - will keep the painted black base though to match the speaker stands.

 

MF 1000

Extreme Full Range 😱
Wammer Plus
Apr 5, 2011
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Caego
AKA
Keith
HiFi Trade?
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I like the idea of the vertical enclosure. You could mount a peice of opaque persex inside as the monuting board and hide the point to point wiring....or a clear one to reveal it. The box is simple to make with mitred corners from mdf then a good matt black painted finish. As an alternative....maybe the whole enc in clear perspex

This one is very stylish pitty about the inductor alignment...looks good but will have massive effects on the actual values of the paired coils

 

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